Bolt torque ?

[gaineso]

Does anybody know what torque I should tighten these 2 bolts.
1/2" stainless with stainless nylock nuts. B een just pulling them tight with a rachet but I've learned that even on my little rig it pays to be right.

Thanks

[RUNWME]

I always like to German torque all my bolts.. tighten them
"Goodentight"




(this equates to 70ft lbs on my rig)

[MarkHP]

Don't know about the Hi-Jacker but my CMC manual is speced at 100 ft-lbs.

[gaineso]

MarkHP, what size are your bolts and are they stainless?

Thanks for the reply.

[Techno]

Just to throw a monkey in the wrench.
SS is supposed to be used with never sieze to prevent it from galling. Anytime you add a lubricant to a torque spec that don't specify a lube you've changed it. Torque is a guess at bolt stretch and is usually estimated with the friction of dry threads.

An FYI. Neversieze or whatever name it goes by is nothing more than tiny metal or ceramic dust held in a paste supension. Oddly these tiny metal plates act like ball bearings between the sliding metal contacting threads.

Any bolt actually has a specified torque in some table somewhere. If you look in an engine book the different sized fasteners usually fall into these set values. Sorry don't know what it is for 1/2" .

[gaineso]

Thanks Techno. My concern is being tight enough without galling. I've been using gear lube on the threads and tightening as tight as could with a 1/2" rachet. That is about 60 ft lbs. I've been putting gear lube on the threads and they haven't galled so far. I got some Loctite Silver Grade Anti-Seize that I'm gonna use from now on.

Guy at Daytona Bolt told me that what he has found out is Nylock nuts on stainless bolts are more prone to gall than standard nuts. The nylon part loads the threads in such a way that the metal catches and creates enough heat to soften it and then it deforms and locks. He said lots of lubricant and turning the nut slowly so that it doesn't get hot will stop most problems. And don't ever use an impact wrench. In some ways it makes sense. Local heating on the edge of the threads could cause something like that I guess.

Anyway, I guess I'll just stay with what I've been doing.