Brand new to this

[Tight Lines]

Just bought my first bass boat (intimidator with 94 200XRI). Oil injection system had a leak and while trying diagnose it I cracked the cap 🤦*♂️. So decided to delete the system and started my research. Scrounged up what info I could being that all the good threads with Pics are outdated and don’t work anymore. I’m just going off of people saying remove this and that without knowing what this and that looks like. So this is what I have removed. Can anyone tell me (preferably with a picture) what else needs to be removed as far as electronics. I pulled the lower box on top of the head. I have seen people say remove all three and people say to remove just the oil module. Everything oil related was connected to the lower box so that the only one I have pulled so far. It’s all a little confusing when you not familiar with the parts and names. Thanks I’m advance!

[Bodhi]

Sorry I don't have any pics to go along with this post. Your certainly on the right path, looks like you've got the oil sensor, water alarm, and detonation box off already. The last one you'll need off is the idle advance/retard from the top of the powerhead (if it's still there). You will also want to buy the plastic mercury plug that blocks off where the oil pump gear was. Premix heavy and enjoy! That will complete what you are after

[Tight Lines]

Sorry I don't have any pics to go along with this post. Your certainly on the right path, looks like you've got the oil sensor, water alarm, and detonation box off already. The last one you'll need off is the idle advance/retard from the top of the powerhead (if it's still there). You will also want to buy the plastic mercury plug that blocks off where the oil pump gear was. Premix heavy and enjoy! That will complete what you are after


Don’t you have to mess with timing if you remove the removed the idle advance module? I take it that’s the one that sits on top of the oil module on the head.

[Tight Lines]

This is what it is still there, again the 2 black boxes on top of the head I only pulled the lower one as that’s where the reservoir cap wire ran to. I left the top on because I wasn’t sure exactly what it’s controlling.488794488795

[25two.stroke]

Red/white wire and Black/wire go from that to the switchbox...thats the ignition control/idle stabilizer/burn your motor up box. Thats the most critical to get rid of.

[Bodhi]

This is what it is still there, again the 2 black boxes on top of the head I only pulled the lower one as that’s where the reservoir cap wire ran to. I left the top on because I wasn’t sure exactly what it’s controlling.488794488795

Yep, that's it! Like 25two said......it's a stabilize/burn up the motor box.
You will have to check the timing when your done with removal, mine was only off 2°. Hardest part of the whole job is making and installing a jumper wire between switchboxes (just a little time consuming thats all)

[Tight Lines]

Yep, that's it! Like 25two said......it's a stabilize/burn up the motor box.
You will have to check the timing when your done with removal, mine was only off 2°. Hardest part of the whole job is making and installing a jumper wire between switchboxes (just a little time consuming thats all)


I gotcha, messing with timing is out of my league. I know zero about that. So do you know what the third box located on the side is?

[25two.stroke]

What color are the wires? I know none of those boxes are needed. Post a pic of the wires coming out and I can tell you.

Timing is easy. Like super easy. Just get a timing light and crank it and watch.

[tlwjkw]

So do you know what the third box located on the side is?

detonation module.....

[Tight Lines]

Gotcha, did some more research and I am going to pull all 3 and have a friend who is going to help me check timing after. Will I still have a hot horn after removing all of this?

[promod115]

What if it doesn't have switch boxes ?

[Jim Speros]

What if it doesn't have switch boxes ?

There are a few model years, well at least one that had an ignition control box. Looks similar to pix above but have a large cluster of wires.

[blackmaxonly]

There will be a grey wire with a white tracer. Ground that out. The top left terminal on the switch boxes should be connected to one another, with no other wires on those terminals.

You can leave the timing as is but you may be leaving a bit on the table. Verify timing and set to 23° WOT, you can get away with 24 or 25 but 23° to be safe. If you are on stock compression heads (125psi ballpark) then 24° will be safe with most pump gas.

As others said, get the block off kit and make sure the oring is in place. Most of the block off kits need to be sanded down a bit, it's a tight fit.