'93 Mariner F block Pumper Carb question

[Smalltownbassin]

Not my motor but I'm trying to help a friend out. Its a 1993 mariner 2.5L 200. Single F stamp with pumper carbs. He's having a hard time keeping it running. I've checked everything out and so far is a very healthy motor. The only thing I'm unsure of is the pumper carbs but I'm focused on them since he only runs the motor once or twice a year. Before I pull them apart for a rebuild I'm hoping you guys can fill me in on these things. Are they just going to be a headache to rebuild as far as finding rebuild kits? Should I just throw a set of WMV18s on there for him to make life easier? If these are the same carbs used on the 245 (with different jetting) I wouldn't mind having them myself to be honest since all he wants is a motor that will reliably run. I cant seem to find any good diagrams of them or rebuild kits online so if you guys have any info I would really appreciate it. TIA

[bullet123]

I never had any luck with pumpers. finnicky bastards. throw the 18's on it or some wh 46's

[Smalltownbassin]

That's probably what ill do. 18s are so trouble free that's definitely what he needs as long as i can talk him into running it more often. None of them like to sit for long. If i wind up with the pumpers i may tinker with them a bit for the learning experience but like you said, they may be more trouble than they're worth. Thanks! Are all the 2.5 pumper bodies the same and only jetted differently for HP?

[tlwjkw]

if ya keep tha pumpers strip all tha "pump" inards and linkage then fill tha void with epoxy.. will work jus as good as any..

[Smalltownbassin]

if ya keep tha pumpers strip all tha "pump" inards and linkage then fill tha void with epoxy.. will work jus as good as any..

Are the bodies the same used on the 245? I've got a block getting a haircut that will need some heavy fuel flow. I know 46's are capable with the right jetting but if pumper bodies would be better id like to try them out minus the pumps. I know this has nothing to do with helping solve his issue but just in case i wind up with them it would be good to know if they're worth using for a heavily ported FF.

[tlwjkw]

wouldn't say they would be better.. most wmh's are tha same body with exception of tha ones on some 135/150's.. seemed like they have a smaller venturi opening???.. jus gotta do same with them as you would wh's.. jetting ta suit whatcha got.... with wmh might start with 78/80's with your build maybe.. 245's had 76's for break in.... up to you... jmo.

[Smalltownbassin]

*Update*

Spent some more time with motor yesterday. Without doing a full rebuild on the carbs i was able to get the pumps working. Pump plunger leaks on bottom carb so a full rebuild or swap is coming. Motor still wouldnt run right on muffs so i deleted the retard box as a shot in the dark and abbra kadabbra, she's alive! Have any of you seen one fail to the point of over advancing spark at idle speed on a cold start? Before i deleted the box it was kind of a stutter and surge situation similar to a fuel delivery issue. Definitely had me puzzled once i got the fuel moving and didnt solve the issue.

[bullet123]

*Update*

Spent some more time with motor yesterday. Without doing a full rebuild on the carbs i was able to get the pumps working. Pump plunger leaks on bottom carb so a full rebuild or swap is coming. Motor still wouldnt run right on muffs so i deleted the retard box as a shot in the dark and abbra kadabbra, she's alive! Have any of you seen one fail to the point of over advancing spark at idle speed on a cold start? Before i deleted the box it was kind of a stutter and surge situation similar to a fuel delivery issue. Definitely had me puzzled once i got the fuel moving and didnt solve the issue.
YES, but has been a long time. first thing I do when I work on anyones motor is remove all boxes and oil injection and retime. I assumed you already done that.

[bullet123]

I would put the 18s on it and throw pumpers in the hopper

[Smalltownbassin]

YES, but has been a long time. first thing I do when I work on anyones motor is remove all boxes and oil injection and retime. I assumed you already done that.

I did check timing but didnt notice any issues at cranking speed with the box on it. He's very hesitant to take anything off that motor and alter its original design but he also doesnt understand much of what i try to tell him about it. Even after showing him this thread and everyones agreement to ditch the pumpers he's hesitant to do it. I guess i can understand a little. The boat was in his family and handed down to him so preserving everything about it seems to be important to him. I sent him a video after the box delete and i didnt get any pushback so he may see the light now lol. Video is up on the S&F fakebook page but waiting for approval i guess. Once its approved by the admin you can go see it. Ill try to post it here but have never shared an actual video file. Only links so it may or may not load. IDK

[Smalltownbassin]

Looks like Mp4 is an invalid file.

[bullet123]

I can assure you and him that most blown V6 mercurys that I have seen in the past 30 years are due to oil system or retard boxes.

[bullet123]

does his motor have bias wire on switchboxes?

[Smalltownbassin]

Yes it does have the bias wire.

[Smalltownbassin]

Oiler was unhooked by his uncle years ago but everything is still on the block lol

[Smalltownbassin]

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