300R Prop Help

[Boats&Taxes]

So just build a 23' Concept with a 300R with the HD gearcase and a jackplate. Was the first boat they have done with a 300R so they were not sure what the perfect prop would be.
I tried a Rev4 22P and got 6,500 at 64.2mph in salt water and today tried a FS 23P and got 6,500 rpm at 66.1mph in fresh water.
What do you think I should try next? FS 24P? Goal is to break 70mph.

Also has anyone plugged any of the holes on the gearcase? The boat is picking up speed as I jack it up but I am running out of water pressure before I can jack it to the highest setting.

Thanks,
Mike

[Linesider 159]

Slip is very high, a 23 bravo at 6500 would be around 69-72 with good slip numbers. A 300r wont turn 6500 rpm either, so something is wrong altogether.

[TraceF3]

Numbers don't sound right to me either. You have a T-top?

I have a Checkmate 24. Similar deadrise and weight to the Concept 23. I'm installing a 300R but previously ran a Verado 300 with the standard 1.75 gearcase. The HD gearcase is going to slow you down.

I got 65 mph at 5750 rpm with a ProMax 23p. Works out to 9% slip.

[Boats&Taxes]

Actually turning over 6,500. Found a 24FS that I will be trying once it gets here.

[TraceF3]

Actually turning over 6,500. Found a 24FS that I will be trying once it gets here.

If it's a Bravo 1 24p FS and it doesn't work for you I may try it.

[Boats&Taxes]

No t-top. But hitting the 6,500 is trimming it up a good amount and jacked up a good amount. Have 15 hours on engine so still trying to figure out what the boat likes. With the REV prop it ran fastest with the jack plate all the way down and alot of trim. Just the opposite with the FS, higher I jack it up the more speed I was seeing until I ran out of water pressure.

Have a friend with same 23 Concept with a 300 ProXS with the torquemaster gearcase and he was seeing 68.7mph with a Bravo FS24 at under 6K rpm. Not sure how much the HD gearcase is slowing it down but once I get the FS24 will have a better idea.

[Boats&Taxes]

If it's a Bravo 1 24p FS and it doesn't work for you I may try it.

When are you getting your 300R? I almost built a 2400BRX with a 400R but then the company got sold and I changed my mind.

[TraceF3]

It's supposed to be in next week. I've already put new steering and controls in. Just need the dealer to hang the motor :)

[Boats&Taxes]

It's supposed to be in next week. I've already put new steering and controls in. Just need the dealer to hang the motor :)

I think you will be very happy with 300R compared to Verado. Will be curious what it will run. Think it will break 70 once you figure out the correct prop?

[TraceF3]

Yes. I think it will

[Pulsare2400]

No t-top. But hitting the 6,500 is trimming it up a good amount and jacked up a good amount. Have 15 hours on engine so still trying to figure out what the boat likes. With the REV prop it ran fastest with the jack plate all the way down and alot of trim. Just the opposite with the FS, higher I jack it up the more speed I was seeing until I ran out of water pressure.

Have a friend with same 23 Concept with a 300 ProXS with the torquemaster gearcase and he was seeing 68.7mph with a Bravo FS24 at under 6K rpm. Not sure how much the HD gearcase is slowing it down but once I get the FS24 will have a better idea.
I have a 2020 Checkmate 2400 closed deck with a 300R and a 24P Bravo FS. It runs 72 mph GPS at 6200 rpm. I have trimmed it much higher and run the same speed at 6450 rpm. It has a hydraulic jack plate. I am not impressed with the motor, but if I was in the boat alone, I think it would easily run 73 mph, and perhaps 74 mph under perfect conditions.

[Boats&Taxes]

I have a 2020 Checkmate 2400 closed deck with a 300R and a 24P Bravo FS. It runs 72 mph GPS at 6200 rpm. I have trimmed it much higher and run the same speed at 6450 rpm. It has a hydraulic jack plate. I am not impressed with the motor, but if I was in the boat alone, I think it would easily run 73 mph, and perhaps 74 mph under perfect conditions.

Did you happen to run any other props? Wondering what I will gain going from the 23P Bravo FS to 24P Bravo FS.

[JPEROG]

Make sure everyone has had the throttle position indicator set from your installing dealer with a factory G3 (you might be missing up to 10% of full throttle position). Spending the time with the break-in procedure so that the ECU learns individual throttle perimeters and settings in 3 or 4 hundred rpm increments will also give you a better result (it needs to build a curve based your rigs load). The other thing that is recommended from a few guys that know is to get the oil switched over to the high quality verado semi-synthetic oil asap (I never started mine with the factory break-in oil).

I have plugged all but my bottom two side pickups in order to maintain pressure with my HD 5.44 case and still run it somewhat high. The plugs are 1/16th pipe and I ordered them and a matching tap from McMaster-Carr.

479302479303

Joe

[Pulsare2400]

I ran about 5 props. Probably did not have the correct jack plate height for each prop. 26P Bravo 1 ran 70 mph at 5800 rpm, 13.4% slip. A Solas Scorpion 24P at 6000 rpm and 71 mph, 9.8% slip. A BBlades 24P Blaster at 65 mph at 6470 rpm (on the limiter) with 30% slip!! A Hill 5 blade 23P Pleasure at 68 mph, at 6400 rpm and 17% slip. The 24P Bravo FS ran with just under 9% slip at 72 mph. The 26P Bravo accelerated faster than the 24P FS and had less chine walking, but it was too much pitch. The Blaster, Hill 5 Pleasure were both less than 15" diameter and all had excessive slip on my boat (may be different on your boat).

[JPEROG]

I ran about 5 props. Probably did not have the correct jack plate height for each prop. 26P Bravo 1 ran 70 mph at 5800 rpm, 13.4% slip. A Solas Scorpion 24P at 6000 rpm and 71 mph, 9.8% slip. A BBlades 24P Blaster at 65 mph at 6470 rpm (on the limiter) with 30% slip!! A Hill 5 blade 23P Pleasure at 68 mph, at 6400 rpm and 17% slip. The 24P Bravo FS ran with just under 9% slip at 72 mph. The 26P Bravo accelerated faster than the 24P FS and had less chine walking, but it was too much pitch. The Blaster, Hill 5 Pleasure were both less than 15" diameter and all had excessive slip on my boat (may be different on your boat).

Everything that I have seen work has been a 15" dia. or close and a 5 blade configuration with exception to the MAD EFI R series (4 blade). On the Tri-toons, they need even more dia. because they require all of the blade surface to be somewhat efficient so we are limited to the 3 blade 16" dia. Enertia Eco. Sounds like you need to send the 26 Bravo in to be worked and will be close (call Mike E. at FJ propeller and be very specific with what its doing-he will amaze you with results if he is given the correct information initially). (I would also recommend calling Todd D. from Mad EFI and see if he has anything close to what you are looking for. We have run his four blade design on several boats and they have been the top producer (most were light boats).

As always, engine height is the key factor to reduce drag, pull top numbers, and get the best handling.

Joe

[Boats&Taxes]

Make sure everyone has had the throttle position indicator set from your installing dealer with a factory G3 (you might be missing up to 10% of full throttle position). Spending the time with the break-in procedure so that the ECU learns individual throttle perimeters and settings in 3 or 4 hundred rpm increments will also give you a better result (it needs to build a curve based your rigs load). The other thing that is recommended from a few guys that know is to get the oil switched over to the high quality verado semi-synthetic oil asap (I never started mine with the factory break-in oil).

I have plugged all but my bottom two side pickups in order to maintain pressure with my HD 5.44 case and still run it somewhat high. The plugs are 1/16th pipe and I ordered them and a matching from McMaster-Carr.

479302

Joe

thanks for that info, is there a way with the vessel view to see if builder did that?
I was wondering how many holes could be plugged. Thanks for providing what was used to plug.

[Boats&Taxes]

I ran about 5 props. Probably did not have the correct jack plate height for each prop. 26P Bravo 1 ran 70 mph at 5800 rpm, 13.4% slip. A Solas Scorpion 24P at 6000 rpm and 71 mph, 9.8% slip. A BBlades 24P Blaster at 65 mph at 6470 rpm (on the limiter) with 30% slip!! A Hill 5 blade 23P Pleasure at 68 mph, at 6400 rpm and 17% slip. The 24P Bravo FS ran with just under 9% slip at 72 mph. The 26P Bravo accelerated faster than the 24P FS and had less chine walking, but it was too much pitch. The Blaster, Hill 5 Pleasure were both less than 15" diameter and all had excessive slip on my boat (may be different on your boat).

Hopefully the FS24 will be my best prop as well. Hoping that the prop will be close enough and then I can have it worked on.

[TraceF3]

Make sure everyone has had the throttle position indicator set from your installing dealer with a factory G3

Can you elaborate on this Joe? The dealer has to make a selection?

[Pulsare2400]

I have tried different jack plate heights but the boat does not gain much speed after about 4" below. It will run fine at 3" below but if anything has more slip with the props I tried. I have run it as high as 1/2" below by mistake and it even came on the plane without any slippage. I have considered a labbed prop but I have not tried any because I am suspicious that this 300R is not seeing full throttle or the optimum timing curve. I have a friend with a 2020 24ft BRX with a 300R as well. Both engines were set up with the Mercury laptop program at Checkmate but that does not mean something could not have gone wrong with the program download especially for the throttle position sensor. What he describes to me in acceleration I am not feeling (part of that is being used to drag cars that did 0 - 60 mph in less than 1.2 seconds). His boat, he claims, accelerates hard to 72 mph and then does an instant violent chine walk that occurs so fast he has to get out of it. He has the exact same 24P FS prop that I do and that prop will not run over 75 mph because you will be on the limiter. I have no beeps and Mercury Racing more or less told me everything appeared "normal" based on the speeds. I also smell gas (smells rich) when I back up at idle speeds, and get a whiff of it which I don't think is normal. It idles and runs smooth, it is just slow. I sent all the prop data to Mark Croxton and he suggested labbing the existing 24 FS, however he said he did not want to do it until I had more hours on it because he also thought it was slower than it should be. The local dealer here was not much help, tried to tell me I have the jack plate set at the wrong height, and other things that perhaps a person that never owned a high performance boat would not know. I asked him that all I wanted was for it to be scanned with the G3 program to determine that I have full throttle, and full timing, and a good AFR according to the oxygen sensors. They said they could also do that but i have to drop the boat off and leave it outside his shop for 2 - 3 weeks which I am not going to do. I will only really find out when my friend gets his handling issues sorted out.

[JPEROG]

G3 is the software system that mercury dealers have access to. The system is constantly being updated so that qualified dealers stay up to date on everything from ECU curves to recalls and recommendations. The new motors are searching for an r.p.m. not a throttle position so its not as simple as looking at the butterfly and making sure its vertical or against the stop. This is done with a software program making sure that the full R.P.M. range is being recognized. Several guys have run hot foot throttles and not been seeing the full scale due to lack of throw in the pedal. (Its expensive so not a lot of dealers attend the school and/or purchase the system).

Joe

[Pulsare2400]

Joe is correct. If you are lucky enough to not have a DTS engine, then you have a mechanical cable and you can check full throttle easily like all the old school engines from years ago, I believe. My 300R is the digital version which I did not want. The G3 is necessary do to all kinds of safeguards in the ECU program. For example, you can move the lever or foot throttle to WOT in the throttle only mode but the ECU will only allow the throttle blade to open a certain amount since it thinks it is in neutral for example. If the key is on, but the engine is not running and you got to full throttle on the lever, it will not open the throttle body blade because it does not want you to turn the auto start function with the blade fully open. I do not know how to circumvent all of this. There must be a range of throttle blade position at WOT that will not cause the fault horn to beep, but I have no idea what it is. I have seen the "10% less than WOT" mentioned often so I would assume those people had not fault beep so at least that much is allowable?? I wish I had a mechanical set up. The digital is supposed to shift smoother and have other "desirable features" but I still have a bit of a clunk when I shift, and there are no features I am using that I could not live without. With a cable any of us could easily adjust it to provide 100% WOT when the lever pinned. With the digital system, using the G3, the technician I believe can set up the system so that it is at WOT when the stick is only 3/4 of the way forward, making it very sensitive. It has a docking feature (mine appears to not have been programmed because it does not work) where you push the dock button on the control housing and that automatically provides only 50% throttle when the stick is pinned making the throttle less sensitive. That is supposed to make it easier to dock your boat. Anyway, I hope I can find a dealer that will eventually hook mine up to the G3 software and tell me a few basic things that I could see visually or with a timing light years ago.

[TraceF3]

I ordered a non-DTS motor. I was removing a Verado. The controls were 13 years old and showed some wear and corrosion. So I needed a helm, controls, and a motor. I wanted to save money on the package.

[Pulsare2400]

How nice. You won't have to find a dealer with the software, and pay him $150 to tell you if you have full throttle or not as in does the throttle blade open 100% when you have the stick pinned. I think yours still has ASC, so if you turn over about 6350 - 6400 rpm, the motor will still start pulling power to keep if from going on the rev limiter and I don't think you can feel that happening, it just doesn't rev higher and you still need a dealer with the G3 software to tell you if that was happening. However, if you are running a prop that will not rev higher than 6300 - 6350, the ACS system is not supposed to pull any power from what I have read, but perhaps I am wrong.

[JPEROG]

All new 4.6 motors need to be set up by a tech with the G3. The cables activate a servo instead of an electric signal activating them. The only money saved is in shifters. This is part of the prevention by Mercury to not have backyard guys rigging boats and hanging motors that will have insufficient mounting hardware, fuel flow, voltage feed, etc.-O.E.M.s or dealers are supposed to mount and rig all new product.

Joe

[Pulsare2400]

Appreciate the comments. Checkmate Marine in Bucyrus set mine up with the G3 software and they told me that engine as they received it, would not even start without the G3 set up software. They set up the sister boat to me with the same engine and according to the owner it performs better than mine but we live far apart and have not run the boats side by side. I think during the G3 set up, the software asks you to move the throttle lever to reverse, neutral, forward and full throttle if I recall correctly (amongst many other things) from what I have read. Besides perhaps having a faulty TPS, what could Checkmate have done in the set up (if anything) that would account for soft acceleration and lower top speed? Thought they moved the lever to WOT but really did not? I thought if you do that during the set up, the engine would have WOT with the stick not all the way forward making the throttle more sensitive? I am not impressed at all with my 300R. I just cruise it at 3000 rpm and rarely bother to open it up and find out how slow it is again.

[JPEROG]

My guess is that you are not seeing WOT or there is something else holding you back. Call Billy and ask him to re-check it. We had a few of them running with us yesterday (all on cats and everyone has been good since Wayne Duke set their perimeters). Wayne is in Lake City off of I-10 and I-75, you might want to make a run down if you don't have faith in your local guys.

The Argo goes right to 120 at will and he has not had any desire to run it past that point but it continues to pull with a 34 and or 36 on it. I know of another guy that was not happy with his so you are the second "get to someone that has experience or back to Billy". Randy had one with a plug wire that was loose and it was amazing what one cylinder did to the top end "couldn't feel it at idle and had no idea it wasn't on all 8".

Joe

[Pulsare2400]

Thanks for your post. I know who Randy Corson is but not Billy or Wayne? You just got me thinking when you said Wildman had a plug wire off and could not feel it at idle or at speed. I assumed I would feel it. I had been planning on pulling all 8 plugs (about 48 hours on them) just to check if some of them look rich or were misfiring because I smell gas sometimes while idling. So I will find out if any of them are loose when I go through that excercise. I once put 8 new plugs into a street Mustang I had. You could feel it misfiring under acceleration but not at idle. I could not believe that some of the new plugs were "bad". I checked everything else and finally re-installed the 8 old plugs, and bingo the miss under acceleration was gone. Funny thing was you could not tell which plugs were doing it by looking at them so I installed 8 new ones again. Only time in my life (and I have changed many plugs) I have seen new plugs that were "bad" but did not miss at idle or low rpm.

[JPEROG]

Billy is "Billy Moore" from Checkmate, he and Pete are together in all of the projects. Wayne Duke owns Wayne's Marine and is really good guy (ex-racer, very knowledgeable, and up to date with everything Mercury).

Joe

[Pulsare2400]

OK, thanks. Mine was the 2nd last boat built in Bucyrus, Ohio, so I am not sure if Dean Reynolds programmed it or one of his people. That place is closed. I once e-mailed Pete and he seemed like a nice guy but they do not warranty Checkmates built in Bucyrus. Perhaps Billy would discuss the issue with me however, if I call him. I think I will get the plugs out and check them all just to see if I have one that appears to have been misfiring or rich. If I have them out, I might as well put new ones back in even if they only have 50 hours on them.

[mjw930]

G3 software is only required to set up DTS motors, there’s an initialization routine used to set up the remote controls where it measures the voltage at Idle and WOT as well as F-N-R on the shifter. It also allows you to set motor position and other minor variables. It also provides TPS readings so a tech can zero the sensor if it’s replaced but they also need to do a full recalibration on the remotes. Again, this only on the DTS motors. On the mechanical motors there are no calibration routines, it’s set at the factory and the G3 can’t reset those. What is not widely publicized is the mechanical motors need 4” of cable travel from idle to WOT to tell the motor DemandLinear throttle is 100%. DemandLinear throttle is the key here, it’s what your getting on the mechanical lever. While under acceleration even with DemandLinear throttle at less than 100% the motor can “demand” 100%, this is where the TPS comes in, the computer uses the TPS value to determine actual throttle opening. However, if DemandLinear throttle is under 100% Demand throttle will pull back as RPM increases never allowing you to actually reach 100% DemandLinear AND Demand throttle so you never reach true WOT.

The problem with most re-rigs is the older motors only need about 3” of travel to hit the WOT stops. If you don’t change the position of the cable on the throttle you will never reach 100% Demand. That’s why the old hotfoots are essentially useless with these new motors, they have at most 3.5” of cable travel. I’m actually a big fan of the SeaStar Pro foot throttle. It’s very well made and can get the full 4+” of travel needed by these new motors.

BTW, I have a fully licensed G3 on my Laptop, I do some consulting work on the side with an OEM so technically I’m an employee, It’s totally legit. It cost me over $600 but it was worth it. Here’s some examples of the outputs. Note, I was running way too much prop for this test on my 250 ProXS and don’t have a 300R run file handy. If someone needs a hookup or config in the Daytona area let me know.

479411
479412

[mjw930]

I have a 250 ProXS V8 with the TMII lower on my Key West 210BR (19 degree, pad bottom, 4 lifting strakes. It’s a very fast bottom for a CC) and it likes the B1 FS 23P. Runs 72 @ 6200. Amazing acceleration and cruises really nice at 55 mph turning around 4800 rpm. Not too shabby for a fishing boat ;). According to the factory it’s one of the fastest Key West’s on the water.

I did have to plug the top 2 holes on each side to get Max water pressure where the prop likes to air out but the TM has low water pickup in addition to the 5 side holes. Not sure I’d go as radical as Joe, that’s not a lot of flow for a big V8 IMHO. I get about 23lbs of water pressure at any speed above 50. Motor runs 138 degrees water temp at WOT.

The FS props are interesting, the castings are all even pitch so the lab adds cup to get the 23P so it’s a soft 23. The 24 is pretty spot on so you will see a bit more drop in RPM from 23P to 24P than normal. They also need to run about 1.5” higher than the Rev4 or Tempest Plus. It should be enough diameter for the 5.44 lower but I don’t think you can get your motor high enough without plugging some holes. You may want to consider a prop that’s made to run completely submerged like a base Bravo 1 or a 3 blade Tempest Plus 23P.

[Pulsare2400]

Thanks for the explanation. I have a lot to learn on the logic used on the DTS engines. Unfortunately my 300R is a DTS. Let's assume for arguments sake, that at WOT my TPS sensor is reading 4.8V to 5.0V (just a guess based on some of the stern drives I have worked on, not outboards). Can I probe the wires to the TPS, turn the ignition on, and open the throttle blade by hand and read the voltage read out when the throttle blade is fully opened manually moving the TPM to its furthest travel and highest voltage? In other words if it only read 4.0V when I tried this, or some other value below the threshold for the system, then wouldn't I know that I really do have less than 100% WOT throttle?

[Pulsare2400]

Is your gearcase the 5.44" HD? I am only asking because the Torquemaster on my 300R only has 3 holes on each side plus the low water pickup holes?

[mjw930]

No, there is no relationship between the TPS voltage and Demand throttle. The G3 setup is mandatory for the proper operation of a DTS motor. I did read somewhere of a manual DTS controller setup option but I’d need to dig for it and it’s only yo get it to run, not to provide proper operation. Every servicing dealer has the program so find one any pay for the service. Mercury will also not honor the warranty on a DTS motor if it’s not initialized by a dealer, or so I’m told.

On the gearcase, Mercury made a running change in late 2019 to add 2 additional holes in response to a number of overheating claims from bass boat applications. It seems that many were running in shallows and clogging the low pickups so they added the 2 upper holes to provide more water. The net effect for me was reducing the Max drive height I could run by an inch. I wish I had your case, then I wouldn’t have needed to plug the holes.

[TraceF3]

If someone needs a hookup or config in the Daytona area let me know.

I may be your first customer Mark. I'm a week or two away from mine landing at the dealer. They seem pretty competent but they haven't done a 300R before, only the ProXS.

[Boats&Taxes]

I have a 250 ProXS V8 with the TMII lower on my Key West 210BR (19 degree, pad bottom, 4 lifting strakes. It’s a very fast bottom for a CC) and it likes the B1 FS 23P. Runs 72 @ 6200. Amazing acceleration and cruises really nice at 55 mph turning around 4800 rpm. Not too shabby for a fishing boat ;). According to the factory it’s one of the fastest Key West’s on the water.

I did have to plug the top 2 holes on each side to get Max water pressure where the prop likes to air out but the TM has low water pickup in addition to the 5 side holes. Not sure I’d go as radical as Joe, that’s not a lot of flow for a big V8 IMHO. I get about 23lbs of water pressure at any speed above 50. Motor runs 138 degrees water temp at WOT.

The FS props are interesting, the castings are all even pitch so the lab adds cup to get the 23P so it’s a soft 23. The 24 is pretty spot on so you will see a bit more drop in RPM from 23P to 24P than normal. They also need to run about 1.5” higher than the Rev4 or Tempest Plus. It should be enough diameter for the 5.44 lower but I don’t think you can get your motor high enough without plugging some holes. You may want to consider a prop that’s made to run completely submerged like a base Bravo 1 or a 3 blade Tempest Plus 23P.

Mark, the HD gearcase has 8 holes on each side and was thinking maybe closing up 3 or 4 on each side once I get the prop figured out. Hopefully getting the 24P FS by the end of the week and will see how that runs. Will see if I can find a tempest to try.

The boat was new build, should I assume the builder used the G3 to set it up? I live in Lakeland and could make the drive east to come see you.

That Key West is moving out! I don't see why I should not be able to break 70 once I find the correct prop.

[mjw930]

I may be your first customer Mark. I'm a week or two away from mine landing at the dealer. They seem pretty competent but they haven't done a 300R before, only the ProXS.

Luckily there is virtually no difference in the setup between the two. I know, I have both sitting the driveway ;)


Mark, the HD gearcase has 8 holes on each side and was thinking maybe closing up 3 or 4 on each side once I get the prop figured out. Hopefully getting the 24P FS by the end of the week and will see how that runs. Will see if I can find a tempest to try.

The boat was new build, should I assume the builder used the G3 to set it up? I live in Lakeland and could make the drive east to come see you.

That Key West is moving out! I don't see why I should not be able to break 70 once I find the correct prop.

I have a Tempest 23P sitting in the garage so maybe dragging it over or meeting half way like Eustis and doing a prop test session might be in the cards. Always looking to get out on the water when I can.

BTW, the KW @ 70 mph is quite the handful. The bottom design is set up to be optimal at around 50mph since that's considered "fast" by most fish boat standards, Bass Boats excluded. So, the pad and strakes are a bit oversized so it generates so much lift that by 65 MPH I'm basically balancing it on a 10" wide pad. if it had a smaller pad it would sit down a bit on the strakes and be more stable at these speeds. The side benefit is the same boat with a clunky Yamaha 150 I-4 motor runs 50+ which gives them bragging right within the Bay Reef market. It certainly isn't a boat that I would let an inexperienced driver run with this power.

[Boats&Taxes]

I have a Tempest 23P sitting in the garage so maybe dragging it over or meeting half way like Eustis and doing a prop test session might be in the cards. Always looking to get out on the water when I can.

BTW, the KW @ 70 mph is quite the handful. The bottom design is set up to be optimal at around 50mph since that's considered "fast" by most fish boat standards, Bass Boats excluded. So, the pad and strakes are a bit oversized so it generates so much lift that by 65 MPH I'm basically balancing it on a 10" wide pad. if it had a smaller pad it would sit down a bit on the strakes and be more stable at these speeds. The side benefit is the same boat with a clunky Yamaha 150 I-4 motor runs 50+ which gives them bragging right within the Bay Reef market. It certainly isn't a boat that I would let an inexperienced driver run with this power.

First time I used the boat was Lake Eustis and Lake Harris. About 90 minute drive. Would love to meet you there and hook up the G3 and test that prop. Any excuse to get out on the water while I am in my slow season.

I can imagine the KW at 70 is a handful. The Concept gets loose trying to get the max speed out of her. Off course I have not owned a boat in 12 years and last time was stern drive 91mph boat so totally different. Only have a dozen hours on the boat and that is with 3 different props so still trying to figure her out.

[mjw930]

First time I used the boat was Lake Eustis and Lake Harris. About 90 minute drive. Would love to meet you there and hook up the G3 and test that prop. Any excuse to get out on the water while I am in my slow season.

I can imagine the KW at 70 is a handful. The Concept gets loose trying to get the max speed out of her. Off course I have not owned a boat in 12 years and last time was stern drive 91mph boat so totally different. Only have a dozen hours on the boat and that is with 3 different props so still trying to figure her out.

My challenge is finding the time. Started a new job a few months ago and it's consuming most of my time.

[HydroSkreamin]

So just build a 23' Concept with a 300R with the HD gearcase and a jackplate. Was the first boat they have done with a 300R so they were not sure what the perfect prop would be.
I tried a Rev4 22P and got 6,500 at 64.2mph in salt water and today tried a FS 23P and got 6,500 rpm at 66.1mph in fresh water.
What do you think I should try next? FS 24P?

So the first thing that needs to happen here is to throw a taller prop at it to get it below 6400. Anything above 6400 will pull throttle to keep it from going above 6400, regardless of whether it's a "mechanical" or DTS. All the mechanical gets you is an 8 lb heavier engine, and the DTS is now on the engine, instead of under your helm, and you get to deal with the idiosyncrasies of cables when you turn and trim. So both engines act exactly the same, one the signal is directly from your hand (DTS), and the other is from your hand, through the throttle lever, cable, over the transom, through the rigging tube, to a potentiometer on the engine, to convert everything back to electrical signal to the engine. Make sense?

As Joe said, the engine is trying to achieve and RPM based on what you are asking from the throttle lever. If you go over 6400 RPM, it will automatically change that request for you to stay off the limiter, and this is where the G3 tool is used for propping with these new engines. You need enough wheel on it to get it under 6400, then work on engine height.

I'd be trying 24P, 25P, and 26P Rev4, and the same with B1 and B1 FS. The Rev4's run really well, and if you don't need the stern lift, 5/8" to 1" off the tube will settle things down out back and usually net a 1 mph gain if you don't need the stern lift.


Hope this helps.

[Boats&Taxes]

So the first thing that needs to happen here is to throw a taller prop at it to get it below 6400. Anything above 6400 will pull throttle to keep it from going above 6400, regardless of whether it's a "mechanical" or DTS. All the mechanical gets you is an 8 lb heavier engine, and the DTS is now on the engine, instead of under your helm, and you get to deal with the idiosyncrasies of cables when you turn and trim. So both engines act exactly the same, one the signal is directly from your hand (DTS), and the other is from your hand, through the throttle lever, cable, over the transom, through the rigging tube, to a potentiometer on the engine, to convert everything back to electrical signal to the engine. Make sense?

As Joe said, the engine is trying to achieve and RPM based on what you are asking from the throttle lever. If you go over 6400 RPM, it will automatically change that request for you to stay off the limiter, and this is where the G3 tool is used for propping with these new engines. You need enough wheel on it to get it under 6400, then work on engine height.

I'd be trying 24P, 25P, and 26P Rev4, and the same with B1 and B1 FS. The Rev4's run really well, and if you don't need the stern lift, 5/8" to 1" off the tube will settle things down out back and usually net a 1 mph gain if you don't need the stern lift.


Hope this helps.

Tried Rev 22P, Rev 22P cut down bell and now the FS 23P. With both Rev props the boat ran bow down too much. I should get the FS 24P this week and will get out and test it as soon as it shows up. I hope the 24P brings the rpm down and I then see the speeds that I am looking for.

[Boats&Taxes]

So just build a 23' Concept with a 300R with the HD gearcase and a jackplate. Was the first boat they have done with a 300R so they were not sure what the perfect prop would be.
I tried a Rev4 22P and got 6,500 at 64.2mph in salt water and today tried a FS 23P and got 6,500 rpm at 66.1mph in fresh water.
What do you think I should try next? FS 24P? Goal is to break 70mph.

Also has anyone plugged any of the holes on the gearcase? The boat is picking up speed as I jack it up but I am running out of water pressure before I can jack it to the highest setting.

Thanks,
Mike

So I got the Bravo 1 FS 24P and tried in fresh water today in some lakes that were too small so kept running out of room. With full water and fuel tanks I saw 67.9mph at 6,400 rpm. So going from FS 23P to FS 24P dropped me 100RPM and picked up 1.8 mph. I guess I will try a FS 25P next. If I can drop another 100RPM and pick up another 1.8MPH by going up 1 pitch again I will be right at my goal. Slip% is still very high.

Someone told me the 300R makes max hp around 6,325-6,350? Anyone know if that is correct?

[TraceF3]

You are saying all things were the same and 23 to 24p made that much difference?

[Boats&Taxes]

Basically yes ran on same lakes and temps were about the same. Only difference was this time fuel tanks were full and last time they were maybe 3/4 full. So if anything that would have hurt me. I was told to expect 1-2 mph increase and that is what I saw. Now just wondering if I would see the same gain going up one more pitch.

[TraceF3]

I'm suspicious of the props only being 1" different... I'm sure somebody else will chime in.

Anyway, that's a Concept to be proud of! Every mile per hour from here is gonna cost you ;)

[Boats&Taxes]

I'm suspicious of the props only being 1" different... I'm sure somebody else will chime in.

Anyway, that's a Concept to be proud of! Every mile per hour from here is gonna cost you ;)

Not sure what to tell you... Both brand new props in box.

Thanks, a great all around boat. I have had two big fountains and miss the speed. This boat wanted single outboard center console that was family friendly but at the same time I knew I would not be happy in 50mph center console. I think with the right prop the boat has 70 in it and that was my goal. Off course once I get there i will want more speed. Did someone say blueprint :cool:

[Pulsare2400]

There is not enough difference in rpm between the two props. If the 23P was spot on and the engine was not reducing the % throttle at WOT, then the 24P should have turned closer to 6230 rpm. However, there is another possibility. You did run 67.9 mph at 6400 rpm and that equals 16% slip if I use 23.3 for the pitch which is a realistic number for the a 24P Bravo FS. At 6400 it is likely that the engine is not pulling power so let's assume that is a good number and 100% throttle. If that number was good then you ran 66.1 mph at 6500 rpm which is also 16% slip using 22.3 for the pitch of a 23 Bravo FS. Both props ran the same slip even though the 24P is a straight casting and the 23P is a 22P casting with additional cup added to it. So I would assume the props are similar. My guess would be the engine pulled power and reduced the WOT less than 100% and if the engine did not do that, you would have turned the 23P FS prop to 6600 - 6700 rpm and run between 67 - 67.8 mph (if the engine made the same power at that rpm which it does not). So the pitch change really dropped the rpm around 250 rpm which would make sense. So If you switch to a 25P FS, and my hunch above is correct, it will turn 6150 rpm with the 25P, and you will run almost the same mph, perhaps 0.5 - 1 mph faster if you are lucky providing the slip stays the same. I have a 300R on a 2400 Checkmate Pulsare, and I turn a 24P Bravo FS to 6200 rpm at 72 mph and that is slightly less than 9% slip, but my 300R is a dog and won't run on the top end. I have trimmed it higher and run 6450 rpm but at the same speed because the slip increased. Mercury Racing told me that 6250 rpm is where I want to be but I doubt there is much difference in HP between 6100 - 6400.

[Boats&Taxes]

There is not enough difference in rpm between the two props. If the 23P was spot on and the engine was not reducing the % throttle at WOT, then the 24P should have turned closer to 6230 rpm. However, there is another possibility. You did run 67.9 mph at 6400 rpm and that equals 16% slip if I use 23.3 for the pitch which is a realistic number for the a 24P Bravo FS. At 6400 it is likely that the engine is not pulling power so let's assume that is a good number and 100% throttle. If that number was good then you ran 66.1 mph at 6500 rpm which is also 16% slip using 22.3 for the pitch of a 23 Bravo FS. Both props ran the same slip even though the 24P is a straight casting and the 23P is a 22P casting with additional cup added to it. So I would assume the props are similar. My guess would be the engine pulled power and reduced the WOT less than 100% and if the engine did not do that, you would have turned the 23P FS prop to 6600 - 6700 rpm and run between 67 - 67.8 mph (if the engine made the same power at that rpm which it does not). So the pitch change really dropped the rpm around 250 rpm which would make sense. So If you switch to a 25P FS, and my hunch above is correct, it will turn 6150 rpm with the 25P, and you will run almost the same mph, perhaps 0.5 - 1 mph faster if you are lucky providing the slip stays the same. I have a 300R on a 2400 Checkmate Pulsare, and I turn a 24P Bravo FS to 6200 rpm at 72 mph and that is slightly less than 9% slip, but my 300R is a dog and won't run on the top end. I have trimmed it higher and run 6450 rpm but at the same speed because the slip increased. Mercury Racing told me that 6250 rpm is where I want to be but I doubt there is much difference in HP between 6100 - 6400.


How do I get my slip% down? By trimming it lower? I have tried all combinations of trim and jack plate. The 67.9 @6,400 was the best trim. Lower trim caused speed and RPM to drop and higher trim caused the speed to drop and RPM go higher. I still think I need to plug a couple intake holes since I am jacked as high as I can go and still have water pressure.

[TraceF3]

Getting below 9% is magical...... everything has to be perfect

[Boats&Taxes]

Getting below 9% is magical...... everything has to be perfect

right now I would just be happy getting to around 12-14% with the 24P to get me past my goal.

[TraceF3]

Good luck to you my friend. Are we gonna see all these props for sale in the props forum?

[Boats&Taxes]

Good luck to you my friend. Are we gonna see all these props for sale in the props forum?

Thanks, luckily the boat was a new build and since the have never rigged a 300R on that hull they were more than nice and let me try 4 props on their dime. I only have the 23 and 24 still in my possession and looks like I will be sending the 23 back.

Next prop I try will have to buy or borrow from someone. I guess I should start looking to see if anyone is selling a FS 25P. I wish there was a company locally that would let you rent a props for the afternoon so I could try them all and then buy one. I called Bblades and they do not do the FS props in their prop program.

[TraceF3]

I have a 2020 Checkmate 2400 closed deck with a 300R and a 24P Bravo FS. It runs 72 mph GPS at 6200 rpm. I have trimmed it much higher and run the same speed at 6450 rpm. It has a hydraulic jack plate. I am not impressed with the motor, but if I was in the boat alone, I think it would easily run 73 mph, and perhaps 74 mph under perfect conditions.

Here is a Mercury webpage about adaptive speed control that will explain what you might be experiencing

Optimizing Your Ride: Adaptive Speed Control Explained | Mercury Racing (https://www.mercuryracing.com/optimizing-your-ride-adaptive-speed-control-explained/)

[TraceF3]

Thanks, luckily the boat was a new build and since the have never rigged a 300R on that hull they were more than nice and let me try 4 props on their dime. I only have the 23 and 24 still in my possession and looks like I will be sending the 23 back.

Next prop I try will have to buy or borrow from someone. I guess I should start looking to see if anyone is selling a FS 25P. I wish there was a company locally that would let you rent a props for the afternoon so I could try them all and then buy one. I called Bblades and they do not do the FS props in their prop program.

Did you end up with any props you don't want? I'm looking for a 24p FS, maybe a 25p

[Pulsare2400]

Here is a Mercury webpage about adaptive speed control that will explain what you might be experiencing

Optimizing Your Ride: Adaptive Speed Control Explained | Mercury Racing (https://www.mercuryracing.com/optimizing-your-ride-adaptive-speed-control-explained/)

Thanks, I am aware of the ACS, but I don't think it was active when I ran 72 mph at 6200 rpm. It must have been active when I ran almost 6450 rpm because that is also the rev limiter, but it was over trimmed, and the jack plate a bit too high then, because it ran 1 mph slower at 250 rpm higher. My friend has a 300R on his 2400 Checkmate, and my boat will run about 67 with zero trim and I gain the rest of the speed with the trim. His boat will run 72 mph with barely much trim and then goes into violent chine walk. His might be limited by the ACS since his rpm at 72 mph is closer to 6400 rpm.

[TraceF3]

FWIW the comments section at the bottom of the page says the ACS can't be deactivated.

Which hull does your friend have? And what prop was he running?

I have one of the CM unicorns. The bow rider with the full dash, full windshield and crawl thru. I've read there were only 3 or 4 made. It's a wind tunnel but I solved that with a tightly made bow cover.

Motor is going on today and I'm wondering where to start with props. 24p FS?

[Pulsare2400]

FWIW the comments section at the bottom of the page says the ACS can't be deactivated.

Which hull does your friend have? And what prop was he running?

I have one of the CM unicorns. The bow rider with the full dash, full windshield and crawl thru. I've read there were only 3 or 4 made. It's a wind tunnel but I solved that with a tightly made bow cover.

Motor is going on today and I'm wondering where to start with props. 24p FS?

Mine is a 2400 closed deck with a 300R and a Bravo 24P FS and it was the 2nd last boat built in Bucyrus. My friends is a 2400 BRX, with a 300R, Bravo 24P FS and the same jack plate.

[TraceF3]

What year? Mine is a 2007. Where was it made? "Checkmate History" on their website doesn't say much.

[Pulsare2400]

What year? Mine is a 2007. Where was it made? "Checkmate History" on their website doesn't say much.

Mine is a 2020 and it was completed and I picked it up around Oct 31 / 2019. My friend's is a 2020 and he picked it up around April 2020. The bottom hull mold is of course identical between a long deck and a BRX, but Checkmate had more than Pulsare 2400 hull mold. His and mine came from different but supposedly identical hull molds, at least that is the best of what we can determine. I don't think that is the reason for the performance difference, as I have other "engine symptoms" he does not have, like a very rich exhaust smell when warmed up and idling.

[Boats&Taxes]

Did you end up with any props you don't want? I'm looking for a 24p FS, maybe a 25p

As of now all the props they let me borrow went back to them. I now have a 24P that I will either end up selling to get a 25 or going to have it worked to see if this prop will be the one. Weather has been too cold to do any testing the last 3 weeks.

[TraceF3]

I have a 2020 Checkmate 2400 closed deck with a 300R and a 24P Bravo FS. It runs 72 mph GPS at 6200 rpm. I have trimmed it much higher and run the same speed at 6450 rpm. It has a hydraulic jack plate. I am not impressed with the motor, but if I was in the boat alone, I think it would easily run 73 mph, and perhaps 74 mph under perfect conditions.

Yesterday was the first day on the water with the new 300R. I ran 161 miles in 5.5 hours. I broke it in by the book. On the way back with a moderate chop crossing Lake George I made 70.9 mph at 6200 rpm with a ProMax 23p. It was still climbing but I was managing some chine walk. Works out to a little over 8% slip. All in under 1 minute of WOT. I think the boat will run close to 75 with this prop once the motor is completely broken in and provided I have a few miles to let it climb. I may cancel my backordered B1FS 24p for now.

[Pulsare2400]

Thanks for the update, glad you got it broken in. If you could turn that prop to the rev limiter at 6450 with still 8% slip, you would be running about 74 mph. I was concerned that due to the smaller diameter the slippage might b worse with a ProMax but you proved it is not. That might be why Mercury Racing told me if I want to try one to order a 24P ProMax but labbed, not Pro Finished. So the 24 should theoretically turn the same rpm as the 23P but perhaps with slightly more slippage. If you still had 8%, the 24P labbed should run 74 mph at the same 6200 rpm. I have never run mine more than perhaps 15 - 20 seconds at WOT, since it does not appear to be climbing in speed or rpm after that. However mine will only run 72 mph, perhaps 73 mph with me in it alone and lighter on fuel. Not sure if it is worth the shipping cost, perhaps I should send you my 24FS and you send me your 23P ProMax. How did that Promax come on the plane? Was there a bit of cavitation or slippage until it grabbed? How high were you running your jack plate? Do you have 10" of set back? How far did you trim it, almost to the stops? Again thanks for the update, I think there are very few 2400 Pulsares with 300R's on them, you, Tom, me and I think there is another one. I have heard there is a Mercury employee with a 450R on one but I have not heard any performance figures.

[TraceF3]

I have a Atlas jack plate and a 4" spacer so it looks like 9" on my Stanley. I run out of water with the JP all the way up. That puts the prop shaft where you'd run one if you had a Sport Master and I don't. I ordered a TM. The dealer has the motor installed too high but it didn't really matter because I was running it where it felt right and it was not at the extreme reach. I guess being high is good for trailering, etc.

I wasn't trimming anywhere near max. The Pro Max gets a lot of bite as shown by the low slip. By no means do I have the motor height and trim figured out yet. And it's the first boat I've had to manage chine walk without a pad so I have a ways to go. I'm thinking about getting Wildman to run it one day when he's at Lake WM, it's 3 miles from my house. He could make it fly.

Cavitation getting on a plane wasn't bad but bear in mind I was running a Liberator with a 300 last boat and it cavitated a lot. I'm open to swapping props for a week or two but let me figure out the PM first so I know what it will do in best case scenario. If you want to do it pm me your cell and we can talk.

Glad I'm part of a very small club ;) P2400/300R.... 3 members and counting. Ha!

[Pulsare2400]

You probably have a 6" plate with a 4" spacer so you're at 10" like I am, unless Atlas makes a 5" (mine is Atlas as well). I think Wildman will tell you it runs the fastest with 17" - 19" of setback and the prop around 4" below, maybe as high as 3.5" below. I wish I lived that close to him, because he can sort it out if anyone can. I run mine around 3.5" - 4" below, higher and the slip increases at least with the Bravo FS. Maybe the ProMax will run higher? I think you will easily get it to run to the 6450 rpm rev limiter if you were not trimmed that high. Mine will run about 68 mph with a little trim. Going from 68 mph to 72 mph moves it from a little trim to at least 3/4 of full trim on the gauge. Once it hits 70 mph, I am working the wheel, the higher I trim it the more it wants to chine walk, but mine is so slow that it is not difficult to control the walking but you have to concentrate on it. By all means take your time and figure it out. I have not figured mine out and I have almost 50 hours on it but most of that is idling or cruising at 3000 rpm. I will send you a private message in the next few days with my phone number on it. We are in a small club so we can probably learn from each other and you have already helped me, because I was leery of the smaller diameter ProMax, but it appears you have proved it is viable if you can live with the slip coming on the plane. That will likely get worse with 4 people and a full tank of fuel, but like you said, compared to a Liberator with a Sportsmaster, it is mild. Does your Torquemaster have only 3 holes on each side (plus the lower ones) like mine, or is it one of the newer ones with more holes on each side?

[TraceF3]

I have 5 holes each side. I had 2 men total weight 410 - 415, half tank fuel, small cooler, regular gear, one battery. It runs a lot better than it did with the 300 Verado!

[Pulsare2400]

OK, that is similar to how I ran mine, but my wife and I are closer to 320 lbs, but I think your have the crawl through, non liner boat and those are I believe at least 200 lbs lighter than my closed deck with a liner. I have one battery (Optima and I will try and replace it) and normal gear and coolers as well. What did it run with the 300 Verado when you had that on it?

[TraceF3]

I only ran it a few times and not hard because I wanted to get top dollar for the motor when it sold. Best was 66 IIRC. The seller claimed 72 or 73 but his GPS that came with the boat had a max speed of 68.5, and 800+ miles traveled so I don't think it was ever reset. With my GF we are also around 320-330. Not sure about the weight of the hull but I had a bow cover made to stop the freakin' WIND TUNNEL and it's literally like having a closed bow.

[Pulsare2400]

I only ran it a few times and not hard because I wanted to get top dollar for the motor when it sold. Best was 66 IIRC. The seller claimed 72 or 73 but his GPS that came with the boat had a max speed of 68.5, and 800+ miles traveled so I don't think it was ever reset. With my GF we are also around 320-330. Not sure about the weight of the hull but I had a bow cover made to stop the freakin' WIND TUNNEL and it's literally like having a closed bow.

I agree with your comments. Even if the the 68.5mph was a good reading, you ran 2.5 mph faster and I think you will easily gain another 2 - 3 mph when you get some seat time, better conditions and more hours on the engine. That would mean 5 mph faster than the Verado and that is a lot of horsepower.

[Skippy1971]

I did not see an update to your thread regarding your prop selection problems? I dont understand why Concept did not suggest you contact Mercury directly since they are making a prop specifically for the 300r. According to the website they will get all your hull info etc and design the best performing prop for your application. The 23 with the 300r should be running well over 70 which is scary to think about but should be easily accomplished with your set up. Let us know what you end up with- here is the link to the Merc 5 Cleaver 5 blade https://www.mercuryracing.com/propellers-overview/300hp-5-blade-cnc-cleaver.html

[Boats&Taxes]

I did not see an update to your thread regarding your prop selection problems? I dont understand why Concept did not suggest you contact Mercury directly since they are making a prop specifically for the 300r. According to the website they will get all your hull info etc and design the best performing prop for your application. The 23 with the 300r should be running well over 70 which is scary to think about but should be easily accomplished with your set up. Let us know what you end up with- here is the link to the Merc 5 Cleaver 5 blade https://www.mercuryracing.com/propellers-overview/300hp-5-blade-cnc-cleaver.html

Still working on it. But with the 24FS I was at 67.9mph exceeding 6,400. Had cup added to that prop and plugged some holes in the gearcase so I could go higher with the jackplate and now hitting 69.4mph but still exceeding 6,400. Going to have some pitch added to the prop as soon as Rich as time to squeeze me in and that should push me past my goal of 70mph. Those cleavers look nice but not sure I want to spend that much hoping it will be faster. If someone tells me drop that coin on that prop and you will be doing 75 I will try one out for sure.

[Skippy1971]

The only reason I am a little perplexed is that I have a friend with a 2016 Concept 23 with only a 225 ProXS and he is seeing 59 with optimum trim, about half a tank of fuel and 3 passengers. I checked it with my iPhone GPS speedometer app a while back when I was talking with Susan at Concept about a 23 build with the 300r. Here is the kicker, his boat also has a t-top which is a huge amount of additional weight and drag. I just called him and he said he has a Mirage prop and doesnt even know what pitch because it was already on the motor when he took delivery from Concept new. I previously owned a Scarab Sportster but I really love these hulls and have been seriously thinking about putting my $5k deposit down to get in line for a build. I just cant understand with that much more HP why it should not be well over 70 regardless of prop.
Please let us know what you eventually end up with.
Thanks!

[Boats&Taxes]

The only reason I am a little perplexed is that I have a friend with a 2016 Concept 23 with only a 225 ProXS and he is seeing 59 with optimum trim, about half a tank of fuel and 3 passengers. I checked it with my iPhone GPS speedometer app a while back when I was talking with Susan at Concept about a 23 build with the 300r. Here is the kicker, his boat also has a t-top which is a huge amount of additional weight and drag. I just called him and he said he has a Mirage prop and doesnt even know what pitch because it was already on the motor when he took delivery from Concept new. I previously owned a Scarab Sportster but I really love these hulls and have been seriously thinking about putting my $5k deposit down to get in line for a build. I just cant understand with that much more HP why it should not be well over 70 regardless of prop.
Please let us know what you eventually end up with.
Thanks!

I had a 1998 Concept 23 with a 225 and yes 59 is about what these boats down with that much power. I have only heard of one 23 ever breaking 70 and it was with a 300 Verado worked to around 345hp and it had a blueprinted hull. From what I have seen on online there is a 300 PROXS boat doing 68 and 250XS boat doing around the same. I think once I get it fully dialed in best case the boat will do 72 to maybe 73. Which is quick for the type of boat it is. My boat was the 1st 300R 23 that they did so they had nothing to work with in terms of best prop. But they typically will send the boat with the best all around prop not the fastest prop anyways.

How long of a wait did Susan tell you if you put deposit now? If you are anywhere near Lakeland you are welcome to check my boat out.

If you want something faster check out the Hayaari marine 23. I test drove the first 23 to come to the USA and it had a 400R and we were doing 86mph. I heard they got in dialed in better and now close to 90mph.

[Skippy1971]

She said the next available 23 spot is 12 months out with expected delivery date of around May/June of next year- I actually saw your boat on their facebook page when it was done in November and it looks awesome. I am in Clearwater and might want to take a closer look. I would of course give you plenty on notice to be sure it is convenient for you. I have been speaking with someone who may sell me his used 23 which was actually for sale in January but he decided to keep it. I am only interested in a Center Console with plenty of seating, that Hayaari is too radical for me.
Thanks for all the helpful info and keep us posted on the final prop config and top speed

[Boats&Taxes]

She said the next available 23 spot is 12 months out with expected delivery date of around May/June of next year- I actually saw your boat on their facebook page when it was done in November and it looks awesome. I am in Clearwater and might want to take a closer look. I would of course give you plenty on notice to be sure it is convenient for you. I have been speaking with someone who may sell me his used 23 which was actually for sale in January but he decided to keep it. I am only interested in a Center Console with plenty of seating, that Hayaari is too radical for me.
Thanks for all the helpful info and keep us posted on the final prop config and top speed

The seating configuration is what sold me over the Hayaari.

Will keep you updated. You join the concept group on FB? If not join that page.

[Skippy1971]

I dont have a FB account or any other social media footprint but it looks like I may eventually have to conform- LOL

[Boats&Taxes]

I dont have a FB account or any other social media footprint but it looks like I may eventually have to conform- LOL

I would, the FB page is pretty good place for learning about the boat or looking for one for sale.

[Boats&Taxes]

Update, after trying a bunch of props my best so far is 70.4 @6,1xx with a Bravo FS24 that has had cup and 2P added to it. I was doing 69.4 @6,4xx before I added 2p and some more cup. Any thoughts? Been told maybe try a 23P Enertia eco or a 25P Bravo 1. Maybe a 24P Max5 I feel like now I am leaving 300RPM on the table. Original goal was 70mph but off course now I think 72-74 is possible.

[TraceF3]

Did you ever try a ProMax?

[Boats&Taxes]

Did you ever try a ProMax?
I tried a ProMax 25P without a ring and was tough getting on plane. Only saw 66.1mph @6,150rpm.

[TraceF3]

Yesterday was the first day on the water with the new 300R. I ran 161 miles in 5.5 hours. I broke it in by the book. On the way back with a moderate chop crossing Lake George I made 70.9 mph at 6200 rpm with a ProMax 23p. It was still climbing but I was managing some chine walk. Works out to a little over 8% slip. All in under 1 minute of WOT. I think the boat will run close to 75 with this prop once the motor is completely broken in and provided I have a few miles to let it climb. I may cancel my backordered B1FS 24p for now.

Maybe try a 23?

[Boats&Taxes]

Maybe try a 23?

I might do that since my buddy that had the 25P got a 23P

[Trimmed Out15]

Update, after trying a bunch of props my best so far is 70.4 @6,1xx with a Bravo FS24 that has had cup and 2P added to it. I was doing 69.4 @6,4xx before I added 2p and some more cup. Any thoughts? Been told maybe try a 23P Enertia eco or a 25P Bravo 1. Maybe a 24P Max5 I feel like now I am leaving 300RPM on the table. Original goal was 70mph but off course now I think 72-74 is possible.

Why not lab that 24 some more to get those rpms? I'm hearing these Rs like to run at top rpm

[Boats&Taxes]

Why not lab that 24 some more to get those rpms? I'm hearing these Rs like to run at top rpm

Will ask Rich who has been doing my prop work about it. I tried a Bravo 1 26P yesterday and it was too much prop. Going to try a Enertia Eco 23P next week along with the Promax 23P.

Do you have a Concept 30 with twin 300R?? If so what props you running?

[Trimmed Out15]

Will ask Rich who has been doing my prop work about it. I tried a Bravo 1 26P yesterday and it was too much prop. Going to try a Enertia Eco 23P next week along with the Promax 23P.

Do you have a Concept 30 with twin 300R?? If so what props you running?

I do, 26 Bravo 1 FS stock for now. Playing with engine height then they are going off to FJ Propeller.

[Boats&Taxes]

I do, 26 Bravo 1 FS stock for now. Playing with engine height then they are going off to FJ Propeller.

What speeds and RPM are you seeing? You going to have them labbed or what you doing to them?

[Trimmed Out15]

What speeds and RPM are you seeing? You going to have them labbed or what you doing to them?

So far the best I've seen is 76.8 at 6400ish. I have 2 sets of 26s and they spin different rpms. I'm playing with engine height this year, going up, and.hoping that I will need 27s or have my 26s up pitched or add cup. Either way once I get the height right I'll be sending my props to FJ to see if they can give me a little more.

[Boats&Taxes]

So far the best I've seen is 76.8 at 6400ish. I have 2 sets of 26s and they spin different rpms. I'm playing with engine height this year, going up, and.hoping that I will need 27s or have my 26s up pitched or add cup. Either way once I get the height right I'll be sending my props to FJ to see if they can give me a little more.

What props? FS? I raised my motor up two holes on the jack plate.

[Trimmed Out15]

Yes both sets are Bravo 1 FS. I wish I had jackplates, Concept wouldn't put them on for me. So i have to do it the hard way

[Toffen]

Hi!

Best prop for me on my 400R (using the same HD Sportmaser case) has been Max5 with good margin. An option is the new bigger diameter REV4 :)

Cheeers, Toffen

[Boats&Taxes]

I would love to try a Max5, just can't justify buying one not knowing if it will work. I have heard good things about the prop. I have tried 7 props so far, have three more I am trying on Thursday. I need to get some props sold before I buy anymore. I tried a Rev4 and it didn't do much for me. Not sure if it was a the bigger diameter one.

[Trimmed Out15]

Max 5 is suppose to be great but at 2200 each I'll give up a little with the Bravos. I'm running the HD case but not a sportsmaster. No need at my speed

[TraceF3]

I would love to try a Max5, just can't justify buying one not knowing if it will work. I have heard good things about the prop. I have tried 7 props so far, have three more I am trying on Thursday. I need to get some props sold before I buy anymore. I tried a Rev4 and it didn't do much for me. Not sure if it was a the bigger diameter one.

I'm interested if you have a B1FS24

[Boats&Taxes]

I'm interested if you have a B1FS24

Probably keeping the B1FS 24P since it has been cupped and pitched up and currently my fastest prop.
Will be listing a Bravo 1 26P later this week and possibly a enertia ECO 23P. I have a B1FS 23P but I think it has been sold.

[TraceF3]

OK if not let me know. Thanks

[Boats&Taxes]

OK if not let me know. Thanks

About the FS23P? He is supposed to let me know my tomorrow. If you want it I will be over toward your way on Thursday am. Picking up gearcase in Geneva and then going to test some more props on Lake Harris.

[JDChase]

About the FS23P? He is supposed to let me know my tomorrow. If you want it I will be over toward your way on Thursday am. Picking up gearcase in Geneva and then going to test some more props on Lake Harris.

I hab
I have a new 22’ Chaudron, I only have 3.1 hours onn the engine, I have tried 2 props and I am thinking something is off… started with a Bravo 15.25x32, ran high speed pretty good, had a lot of porpoise without speed, engine height did’nt seem to make a huge differance neither did trim. So I put a FX 15.25x30 on, did some measurements and marks on hull, lower unit and gages. Boat woild not plane with 4 people in it but with just 2 it seemed to run pretty good…about 89mph without pushing things. The FS cavitated hard when trying to come up. Feels like too much prop, but not sure it should be with a 300?