looking for boat plans

[keefallan]

Gentlemen, I am looking for some boat plans. I plan on building a boat for myself. The carpentry is not an issue. I know about Glen L for their boats. I have 3 of their boats in mind. I am open to a tunnel ,hydro or a mod v. Its needs to be in the 15- 19 ft range. My motor choices range from 135 inline 4 to v6 power. But style will decide the motor. I just dont want to get into one particular design and there was other designs out there that I didnt know about. The boat cant be a single seater. It needs to be enjoyed by others at the same time.........center drive ok.

I did find some plans somewhere, but they were scanned from old mags and were not very readable.

I figured that this was the proper place to ask these questions. If not, I apologize in advance.:thumbsup:

[FMP]

I'll start,
Lars keeps posting great pics of the Velden tunnels, was wondering about plans for that one.
https://www.screamandfly.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=473050&d=1599750608

[XstreamVking]

Draw your own design...Break free of the mold and explore.

[FMP]

You need the " book "
http://www.aeromarineresearch.com/

Bill Edwards is another with his own/partner , E&T.
Plenty of video of his with the stacker.
Hauls pretty good!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=oYR7LFPQHME
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t9DJ3Gif5KE
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=okdLzrcZ-rw

[Instigator]

Clark Craft has some great, older designs too.

A lot of them are race/oriented/built than the Glen-Ls that were aimed more for the beginner.
I have built several of both.

That being said, Glen-L does better at the recreational side and I remember a couple of vees in the 16’ -18’ range that would work.

Remember too, just cuz they show it as a jet/IO, don’t mean it has to be one ��

Designing one yourself although, sounds/is fun, if your miss the mark, then what do you do?

I burned one and cut another into pieces so it’d fit in a dumpster.
Last I bought 5 ply, 7mm Okume Marine plywood (3-4 yrs ago) it was about $150 per sheet delivered.

You can do the math on your idea being off.
Not for the faint of heart ��

[XstreamVking]

Find a hull that you like w/o too many complex curves and do some measuring, it's not rocket science. A"skiff "type hull is easy to build and power. A vee hull is a little more complicated. A tunnel is more difficult yet to get right. Depends on what you are trying to achieve performance wise.

[largecar91]

You need the " book "
http://www.aeromarineresearch.com/

Bill Edwards is another with his own/partner , E&T.
Plenty of video of his with the stacker.
Hauls pretty good!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=oYR7LFPQHME
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t9DJ3Gif5KE
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=okdLzrcZ-rw
I agree with Jim Russels Book or downloads. He is a wealth of knowledge! he helped me when I designed and built mine years ago.

[keefallan]

Great input from everyone. Right now, here's what I do know..........

1) exterior is gonna be mahogany. Its not too expensive. I know a supplier where I can get it for 5 buck a board foot. The stringers and everything visible inside.........mahogany. I will use ply where I can get away with it and not be seen.

2) the exterior(at a minumum) will be covered in 2oz surfboard cloth to give an extra measure of waterproof and let the wood show through. I would go 4 oz if someone can say that the wood will show completely through, but I have my doubts. I have done 2oz before and you cant even tell there's glass put down. I may extend that into the cockpit as well......that remains to be seen.

3) my goal is to have a 70+mph boat. I dont need it to do 80 or anything. I am ok with 75. I had a 69 mph Ranger a few years ago(restoration) and sold it. I disregarded the 150 max hp and threw on my 235 that I built. Thats where I found out about the sound of v6 crossflow above 6000rpm.;)

So, now, I would be completely satisfied with a homebuilt boat that runs 75 and looks vintage. I dont think I am shooting too big. But if it went faster, it wouldnt hurt my feelings either;):D

4) my thought was to skin the hull with 1/4" ply to get the foundation for the wood put down. That would enable me to get the plywood to follow the curves without too much difficulty. Then I am undecided as to put another layer of marine mahogany(ply) on after that 1/4" or even 3/8". These are the unknowns right now just because I have never done it. The carpentry is the easy part. Cabinetry and furniture making is another hobby of mine(sometimes you have too many hobbies). The boat is just a big, fine piece of furniture. Maybe all the furniture I restored and built for my boss over the last year or two has been prepping me for the next step.........build a boat.

I had a 1981 checkmate lined up a couple of weeks ago for beans......700 for boat and trailer. The trailer was newer. But, I didnt feel right about it. I have been telling myself(for years now), I want to build my speed boat. And I dont know if I would be happy if I just replaced stringers and a transom on somebody else's boat . You gotta scratch that itch sometimes.

5) all holes in the interior wood from screwing will be counter bored and plugged so no evidence of screws were there.

6) it must seat at least 2....solo seat.......nope. But if I had to say.........4 would be best. Maybe a capt chair in front(center steer) and a bench in back. But thats way down the road.

7) I had been thinking about a vee or skiff and modding it a little to have a pad on the bottom for lift.........width and length? dunno.

[largecar91]

If using plywood for skin, Use Okume.

[wolfgangb]

Great input from everyone. Right now, here's what I do know..........

1) exterior is gonna be mahogany. Its not too expensive. I know a supplier where I can get it for 5 buck a board foot. The stringers and everything visible inside.........mahogany. I will use ply where I can get away with it and not be seen.

2) the exterior(at a minumum) will be covered in 2oz surfboard cloth to give an extra measure of waterproof and let the wood show through. I would go 4 oz if someone can say that the wood will show completely through, but I have my doubts. I have done 2oz before and you cant even tell there's glass put down. I may extend that into the cockpit as well......that remains to be seen.

3) my goal is to have a 70+mph boat. I dont need it to do 80 or anything. I am ok with 75. I had a 69 mph Ranger a few years ago(restoration) and sold it. I disregarded the 150 max hp and threw on my 235 that I built. Thats where I found out about the sound of v6 crossflow above 6000rpm.;)

So, now, I would be completely satisfied with a homebuilt boat that runs 75 and looks vintage. I dont think I am shooting too big. But if it went faster, it wouldnt hurt my feelings either;):D

4) my thought was to skin the hull with 1/4" ply to get the foundation for the wood put down. That would enable me to get the plywood to follow the curves without too much difficulty. Then I am undecided as to put another layer of marine mahogany(ply) on after that 1/4" or even 3/8". These are the unknowns right now just because I have never done it. The carpentry is the easy part. Cabinetry and furniture making is another hobby of mine(sometimes you have too many hobbies). The boat is just a big, fine piece of furniture. Maybe all the furniture I restored and built for my boss over the last year or two has been prepping me for the next step.........build a boat.

I had a 1981 checkmate lined up a couple of weeks ago for beans......700 for boat and trailer. The trailer was newer. But, I didnt feel right about it. I have been telling myself(for years now), I want to build my speed boat. And I dont know if I would be happy if I just replaced stringers and a transom on somebody else's boat . You gotta scratch that itch sometimes.

5) all holes in the interior wood from screwing will be counter bored and plugged so no evidence of screws were there.

6) it must seat at least 2....solo seat.......nope. But if I had to say.........4 would be best. Maybe a capt chair in front(center steer) and a bench in back. But thats way down the road.

7) I had been thinking about a vee or skiff and modding it a little to have a pad on the bottom for lift.........width and length? dunno.

Hi,
I am currently about to finish my 15 ft Vee-bottomed racing runabout replica (my fourth self-designed race-boat build, in frame, side planking on).
For materials choice, sizing, fasteners etc. (called scantlings), I recommend you get yourself:

"The Elements of Boat Strength, for Builders,designers and Owners" by renowned nautical architect Dave Gerr. (McGraw-Hill, available from Wooden Boat Shop and other suppliers of things nautical.
Checked my design with his formulae and recommendations and found bottom planking thickness lacking. The maths are easy and can be applied to any shape/speed range, due to a great formula/tables approach developed by the author. Only limited applicability for catamarans/hydros.
Good way to avoid later disappointments.

Good luck and lots of patience - not too much, because the cost of wood, epoxy, and fasteners is reaching astronomical proportions.

Wolfgang (South Africa)

[Instigator]

I’ll pull out my catalogs and shoot pics of the ones I’m thinking of.

Mahogany stringers, ribs etc will make it very heavy.
Boat racers use Spruce but it’s basically unobtanium these days. Almost same strength and 1/2 weight.

I built this a couple hrs back as dinghy for a cruiser we had and gave up on Spruce and used clear white pine.

If the design is good, and you get 100% glue contact on your joints, the wood won’t be a fail point.

For what you’re talking about for power, an older 15’ - 16’ Checkmate, Baja, Hydrostream would be a hoot!
30 yrs ago, I restored a ‘1969 16’ Checkmate and hung a ‘70’s vintage 140 OMC.
It Ran 60 and was one of the most fun boats to drive I ever owned.

With set up/props would have run 70.
But as is/was, it ran 60 and would pull me up on a slalom w/3 adults aboard!
Lets see that on a fly weight 70 mph boat.

Was perfectly balanced which for me, with 40 or so (???) boats under my keel, is a very, very rare thing.

Find one and do it up as a period correct race boat.
Will stop everyone in their tracks at every ramp you go to.

Been planning one forever.

[keefallan]

Spruce must really be light. I have used a decent amount of Mahogany in my woodworking projects and considered it a middleweight wood. Its much lighter than oak or maple and even walnut. I also liked it for the nostalgia of it and it being rot proof. But I will have to look into actual weights now and see what i can use if I go with something else. I have a Chrysler 135 that is in amazing shape(needs motor work right now) that would look right on an old wood boat;), not my big bore 175 with metallic blue paint and xp175 decals all over it. Maybe I need to build two......a small racer for the 135 and a larger 18 footer for the v6 stuff. hmmmmmmmmmmm. nah, way too many things going on,;) but maybe


nice dinghy btw!!:D

[keefallan]

Hi,
I am currently about to finish my 15 ft Vee-bottomed racing runabout replica (my fourth self-designed race-boat build, in frame, side planking on).
For materials choice, sizing, fasteners etc. (called scantlings), I recommend you get yourself:

"The Elements of Boat Strength, for Builders,designers and Owners" by renowned nautical architect Dave Gerr. (McGraw-Hill, available from Wooden Boat Shop and other suppliers of things nautical.
Checked my design with his formulae and recommendations and found bottom planking thickness lacking. The maths are easy and can be applied to any shape/speed range, due to a great formula/tables approach developed by the author. Only limited applicability for catamarans/hydros.
Good way to avoid later disappointments.

Good luck and lots of patience - not too much, because the cost of wood, epoxy, and fasteners is reaching astronomical proportions.

Wolfgang (South Africa)

Wolfgang, post some pics here........love to see it:D

[slow_bloke]

How about these?

http://www.dillon-racing.com/plans.htm

[Instigator]

I thought of those too but, smaller and single seaters.

Could mod the decks for inline seating but might be pushing the size for weight/power of motors.



How about these?

http://www.dillon-racing.com/plans.htm

[slow_bloke]

In this section under the dillon 14

http://www.dillon-racing.com/customerboats/index.htm

This guy did that: http://www.dillon-racing.com/customerboats/Keegan/index.htm

and this guy is putting a 2.4 on his: http://www.dillon-racing.com/customerboats/Wilde/index.htm

[Instigator]

Yeah I saw the 14 and thought similar.

But......, the story shows the one w/the 2.4 is still under construction.
As in, probably not run yet.
That thing would be a weapon and take serious seat time/experience to tame.

Basically, that guy is building a smaller/lighter hull than a SST 120 tunnel hull race boat and adding 50 hp to it.

Yikes!



In this section under the dillon 14

http://www.dillon-racing.com/customerboats/index.htm

This guy did that: http://www.dillon-racing.com/customerboats/Keegan/index.htm

and this guy is putting a 2.4 on his: http://www.dillon-racing.com/customerboats/Wilde/index.htm

[keefallan]

I've been reading the laker 14 on their website for the last 2 hours. You can make it a side by side seating on that one. I am tempted to buy the plans and just study them. They are only 60 bucks. Thats not free. But its not like the cost of glen-L plans either. I am the guy who studies things to get a mental image in my head. Prints be good for me;)

[Jimboat]

Sounds like a fun project!

[Instigator]

Not sure how many plan sets I have for boats that I haven’t built..., but I’m sure it’s more than the ones I have built.

A great, cheap way to see if it is what you think it is.


I've been reading the laker 14 on their website for the last 2 hours. You can make it a side by side seating on that one. I am tempted to buy the plans and just study them. They are only 60 bucks. Thats not free. But its not like the cost of glen-L plans either. I am the guy who studies things to get a mental image in my head. Prints be good for me;)

[home made tunnel]

You need the " book "
http://www.aeromarineresearch.com/

Bill Edwards is another with his own/partner , E&T.
Plenty of video of his with the stacker.
Hauls pretty good!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=oYR7LFPQHME
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t9DJ3Gif5KE
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=okdLzrcZ-rw


I bought that book. It honestly only references tunnels racing on flat water circuits. Doesn't really address boat building techniques to the average joe. It didn't help with my tunnel build, at least... but may be more insightful to others

[scott reierson]

I stared all all those Clark Craft and Glen plans for years. We also got a small magazine around here that was called boat builder that had plans.

I also got some real cool stuff from Morley at Performance Plans. V's, Step hydo's, Tunnels and the Titan Tunnel which I owned powered by a ported crossflow. He had a cool 22ft single step pad bottom design for the V6's which seemed way ahead of its time. These designs looked like the predecessors to what we see from Darris Allison, George Linder and Howard Pipcorn etc.

For those that remember. Cougar of the UK campaigned a 21 ft wood rough water tunnel I really wanted to build. I have a great story on that. Think I might even have a VHS tape on it.

I'm pretty sure I have some of that stuff in the attic. I also have some left over inline & parts.

[FMP]

I bought that book. It honestly only references tunnels racing on flat water circuits. Doesn't really address boat building techniques to the average joe. It didn't help with my tunnel build, at least... but may be more insightful to others

And then there's home made tunnel, who's tunnel I still look at with admiration on a job well done.

[Instigator]

I still have many issues of Boat Builder mag.

Dont forget the race tunnel plans in Mechanics Illustrated.
They actually built one and hung a 135 cross glow on it and it ran good.

I still have probably probably 20 - 30 sets of misc plans.
The old Boat Builder mags normally had 5 - 10 per issue.

I have a set for a 12’ runabout that’s still on my A list.
Designed in the ‘40’s w/the sporty lines from that era.

Look on Glen-Ls site too. It’s pretty decent.
They have pixs from builders of most of their designs and many w/their own interpretations added.

Jims book on tunnel design is excellent, although aimed at tunnels is very educational for all.
Lots or formulas and theories on weight loading, angle of attack, etc.
I have a couple of editions.
Great book for your library.


I stared all all those Clark Craft and Glen plans for years. We also got a small magazine around here that was called boat builder that had plans.

I also got some real cool stuff from Morley at Performance Plans. V's, Step hydo's, Tunnels and the Titan Tunnel which I owned powered by a ported crossflow. He had a cool 22ft single step pad bottom design for the V6's which seemed way ahead of its time. These designs looked like the predecessors to what we see from Darris Allison, George Linder and Howard Pipcorn etc.

For those that remember. Cougar of the UK campaigned a 21 ft wood rough water tunnel I really wanted to build. I have a great story on that. Think I might even have a VHS tape on it.

I'm pretty sure I have some of that stuff in the attic. I also have some left over inline & parts.

[keefallan]

I looked at the Laker 14 for a long time. My one hang-up with it is ......if I build the side by side version, I have got to figure out a way to bring the coamings together(which are sitting against the sides of the sponsons)at the nose and look good. I saw a customers pic and it looked way too triangular. the single seat version looks much sweeter. If I cant make a smooth transition from the sides to the nose.......I will not build it.....cant build a craft with bad lines.

But here's my top choices right now.......The Laker 14 from Dillon Racing, from Glen-L...the Renegade, Stilletto, and Outrage, and from Clark craft, the Mongoose Racer 20.

The mongoose racer would take my big bore x-flow thats just been sitting around after I built it last year. All the other builds would take either my v4 crossflows or my newly acquired 135 Chrysler(bargain cheap) last Saturday. If I werte to pick one or two.....right now without looking at more plans, its the Laker 14 and the outrage.

And should I choose a v-bottom boat, I will incorporate a pad into the build out.............free speed to be had. How wide and how long?Dunno.........someone please give some advice on that one.

[keefallan]

I stared all all those Clark Craft and Glen plans for years. We also got a small magazine around here that was called boat builder that had plans.

I also got some real cool stuff from Morley at Performance Plans. V's, Step hydo's, Tunnels and the Titan Tunnel which I owned powered by a ported crossflow. He had a cool 22ft single step pad bottom design for the V6's which seemed way ahead of its time. These designs looked like the predecessors to what we see from Darris Allison, George Linder and Howard Pipcorn etc.

For those that remember. Cougar of the UK campaigned a 21 ft wood rough water tunnel I really wanted to build. I have a great story on that. Think I might even have a VHS tape on it.

I'm pretty sure I have some of that stuff in the attic. I also have some left over inline & parts.

Whatcha got hidin' in the attic Scott???:D please tell...........;)

[scott reierson]

As to the inline parts... A phone call would work best. When you get a minute give me a call. If I don't answer leave me a voicemail or send a text on how I can call you back.

Scott 608 347 0027