1977 Ventura build

[Jmr1974]

Been lurking on this forum for a few years now and finally became a member. I grew up on a lake here in southern Wisconsin.Back in the 1980’s I spent many summers going around and around that lake with my beater boat sunup to sundown along with a few other kids on the lake and there beater boats. It must’ve been the summer of 1988, I was 14yrs old when it happened...... it was a busy weekend on the lake, boats everywhere, we were out bombing around like we always did and out of the boat launch comes this boat... a hydrostream. I was 14yrs old and was no stranger to cool looking boats coming on and of the lake but this was not your ordinary 1980’s cool looking speed boat, this thing was bad a$$ and from that day forward I’ve always wanted one. Fast forward to 2017, I’m laying in bed one night checking out craigslist, scrolling thru the boat section and come across a 1987 hydrostream Valero for sale 20 miles from my house, I called the guy and met up with him the next day and bought the boat immediately, the boat is immaculate everything is original with less than 100hrs on the whole package, I take it out about 4 times a summer otherwise it sits under a cover nicely protected in my garage. After visiting this forum the last few years my interest started shifting to finding another boat and restoring it just how I want it, I started searching and found a Ventura 2, gave the guy $300 for the boat and trailer and brought it home last weekend. I didn’t wast any time, I ripped out all the old rigging, Transom and core. The core was so rotten that if I would’ve just flipped the boat over I think the core stringers and seats would’ve just fell to the ground. Today I got just about the whole hull ground down, I’ve got about a half day of grinding then I’ll be ready to start giving it a new lease on life. I think I’m leaning towards using coosa board for the core, knees, stringers and transom. I also cut out the splashwell, I think it looks way better without one. The boat is a 1977 by the way. I’ve been a rough and finish carpenter for 27 years but never worked with fiberglass so I hope you guys that have can help me with any?’s I have along the way. My plan is to make my maiden voyage with this rocket a year from today. My thoughts are to use coosa for the core,stringers, knees and transom and also a piece to fill in the splashwell, then use marine plywood for the floor, what do you guys think? Sound like a good plan? Sorry for making this such along post, from here on I’ll try and get right to the point. I’m taking pictures of this whole build but I’m an idiot when it comes to figuring out how to post them. I’ll bet my 13yr old son can figure it out before I can.

[tnelsmn]

Welcome to the forum! Get that kid of yours onto posting up some pictures of the project. ;)

There's lots of knowledgable people around here that are willing to help. Read a few rebuild threads to get an idea of what you're after. I'm no expert, I'm about finished with my first restoration. But I don't think you want Coosa board as a core material. If you're looking for a composite core Divinycell seems to be the ticket. Coosa would be perfect as stringers, transom, etc. Looking forward to following along with your project!

[Jmr1974]

Thanks, yeah I’ll check out the divinycell. I’m definitely no gonna use balsa, being a carpenter Wood is the last thing I want to put in this boat. I spent about 4hrs today grinding, I’m now ready to figure out every thing i need and get it ordered. The core I tore out of the boat covered almost the entire hull, it stopped about 3” Short of the sides and tapered in as it went up into the bow, I’m wondering if I really need to run the new core that far? Most of the core they sell is 2’ wide, I was thinking to go 2’ from the edge of the pad which will put it right at the last strake and then run it right up into the bow and terminate it just like it was. I was also going to put a gusset at each side of the deck down to the hull like I’ve seen guys do on other builds on here. I’ll work on the pictures, I’m a picture guy for sure and never been much of a reader so bear with me, they will come.

[Jmr1974]

One other thing I forgot to ask, there’s foam flotation in the two back corners of the hull, it wasn’t wet at all, is there any reason to get rid of it? I was just gonna leave it be and cover it back up.

[scott reierson]

JMR 1974,

I had a 1976 Ventura II. I tried 3 different engines and setup on it. There is a a lot of info and experience on available on this. If I remember correctly mine only had foam under the bow deck and seat box

Some of the guys on this site from WI who have owned or currently have Ventura's, will probably chime in. Glass work is a dusty, itchy job. The stuff gets everywhere. Use the right gear, protect your lungs and skin.

Let us know if we can help.

Scott

[Jmr1974]

Scott, out of the 3 motors And setups you had which did you like the best? I’m planning on Something in the 175-200hp range, I might just put the 175 Mariner that’s on my Valero now onto the Ventura, it already has a coned lower and low water pickup plus it has low hours. As far as the jack plate goes I’m kinda undecided on manual vs hydro, I have a hydraulic jack plate on my Valero, it’s nice but there’s really only 2 sweet spots with it, one for fast runs and one for pulling the kid on a tube or waterski, some guys mention not much setback is needed on the Ventura and that a bobs convertible manual jack works real good. If I can get away with a manual jack that I can adjust fairly easy by hand I might go that route. I want to keep the boat fairly simple, minimal needed gauges etc.

[Jmr1974]

Anyone have any suggestions on who I should order my core materials from? Jamestown distributors has a lot of offerings, anyone use them? I open to all suggestions. I’m probably going to use core cell for the core and Coosa for transom, stringers and knees. Thanks.

[LakeFever]

Great story! I can relate to the memories of seeing streams sparking dreams of eventual ownership. These are special boats and I look forward to seeing your build progress. Welcome to scream and fly

[scott reierson]

Boat had full factory interior

1. 15" Merc 2.5 mild mod 225 promax with a sporty. Not for the timid. Lots of Boat weight setup and Specific rigging. 100+ easy. Never took it as fast as it could go. Dangerous for the inexperienced. Lots of bow lift. Fun!

2. 20" Merc stock 2.4 200 Carb Bobs case. Low to mid eighties

3. 20" OMC Modded 140 Cross flow. 70 ish

[Jmr1974]

Scott, option #2 on your last post is exactly what I’m shooting for.

[Jmr1974]

466593466594466596466595466597

[Jmr1974]

Here’s some pics shortly after I got it home, you can see I had started getting the transom out. I need to snap some more pics, I am a lot further along now, core and transom are gone and everything is ground down ready for new stuff, I just need to get it ordered. I would say it took me about 16hrs to get to this point.

[Jmr1974]

Just snapped more pics of how far along I am, I still need to do some work cleaning up the pad. Somebody cut the transom down for whatever reason�� that will be fixed back to normal when I do the transom.466598466599466600466601466602

[Jmr1974]

I actually think I might keep the seats that were in the boat, their a fiberglass shell bucket style, I’ll have them painted and reupholstered, also you can see in the pics how far the old core went to the sides, do I need to go that far or can I go from the edge of the pad 2’ wide the run it all the way up under the bow till it terminates, seems the pad material comes in 2’x4’ pieces. Anybody have an idea of how much fiberglass cloth I’ll need? I’m going to put a new layer of cloth on the hull then sandwich the core with another layer on top, then I need enough for the transom and splashwell delete.

[Hydrovair]

That is a rare hull you have there, that is a comp racing hull, and those are the original Hydrostream seats, so worth saving....

[scott reierson]

Setup correctly that speed will be easy. Ask around about setup and weight placement. You are in for a rush! You will feel like your flying. Be carefull

[tnelsmn]

Express Composites is based in Minneapolis. Very knowledgeable people there. Carries many core varieties. This is where I've bought all my supplies, easy for me as its a 20min drive. 15 yards of 1708 and 5gal of resin would be a good starting point. Probably want 5 yards or more of 1.5oz CSM also.

[Jmr1974]

Thanks Tnelsmn, I ended up ordering A bunch of stuff from Jamestown distributors about 2hrs ago. 35yrds of 1708, 7 gallons of resin some cell core and coosa board, I didn’t get any csm... where exactly is the csm used? I see guys mention it all the time in their builds but for what and where?

[99fxst99]

Yep, that’s a comp hull. I had a 1976 ventura II comp hull. I ran about 80 with a 150 in-line short shaft and upgraded to a 2 L 175 and moved up to about 87. Both with stock lower units. Boat was set up for ski racing. I glassed a plywood floor between the seat box and the bow compartment to make it more comfortable to drive.

[tnelsmn]

Thanks Tnelsmn, I ended up ordering A bunch of stuff from Jamestown distributors about 2hrs ago. 35yrds of 1708, 7 gallons of resin some cell core and coosa board, I didn’t get any csm... where exactly is the csm used? I see guys mention it all the time in their builds but for what and where?

Chop Strand Mat, it conforms a bit easier than 1708 and has better adhesion, but doesn't have the strength characteristics. I used CSM for bonding the transom boards together, transom to hull, core to hull, and for the final layer over everything to cover any seams of 1708. Also for filling repairs and such.

I'm no expert, I don't do this for a living or anything. Only just completed my first rebuild. I've just spend countless hours researching and reading before and during my build.

Also, very cool factory comp hull!

[1954bmw]

How did you know that this was a competition hull just from pictures?? Nice catch.

[Hydrovair]

Looking at the interior pictures, that is how Hydrostream did their comp hulls from the factory, by leaving the taller stringers exposed like that with no flat floor.. And that is a set of their race seats. These hull were raced in the FS class with great success, FS stands for family ski, in which you raced with 2 people in the boat, and the need for 2 seats..

[Jmr1974]

Found out Friday that my materials finally shipped so I have not been able to do anything on the boat, maybe I’ll be able to get after it next weekend. Fingers crossed! So I’ve had a lot of time thinking about the motor for it. Is there any reason to not consider a 140hp V4? I think it would be kinda cool. I really want this boat to hit 80mph without a struggle, is 80 possible with a 140? I know it shouldn’t be a problem with a 200hp but how many more mph does 60hp get? I love the way mercs look but there’s something I really like about the big blocky look of an OMC especially the older V6 OMC’s. I know the 140 looper weighs around 365lbs, probably not much less than a V6 Merc, not sure the weight of a OMC V6 but would like to find out in case I go that route. I know I can get a 140 crossflow that’s in good shape for cheep but they are crankshaft rated with smaller gear case vs the 140 looper is propshaft rated and I think came with the V6 gear case. The crossflow is much lighter tho. I read some older threads from a member here named Laker that knows these 140’s inside and out, hopefully he sees this and chimes in.

[LakeFever]

I loved my cross flow v4 and screamed the hell out of that thing. Premix motor and never had a blip of trouble. Hp was rated at 5200rpm but it spun to 6200 effortlessly. They sound great too

[Jmr1974]

I loved my cross flow v4 and screamed the hell out of that thing. Premix motor and never had a blip of trouble. Hp was rated at 5200rpm but it spun to 6200 effortlessly. They sound great too
I’m still interested in the crossflow I found and for the price it might be a fun motor to mess with, it’s looks very clean from the pictures I seen. Might have to physically go take a peak at it on Monday. Decisions decisions....

[Jmr1974]

Well fellas I guess there’s no turning back now, my stuff finally showed up! 467965467966467967I should weigh this pallet before I unpack it, that way I can kinda keep tabs on how much weight I’m adding to the boat.

[Jmr1974]

Alright, I got my transom boards cut ( 2 layers of 3/4” Cosa board) and a layer of csm for in between. Also gonna put a layer Of csm over the inside of the transom to thicken up the skin before I put my new transom in. I’ve got a couple of ?’s tho, what side of the csm goes against the existing boat shell, the shiny side or the strandy side, same question goes for the 1708 when I get to that. When I laminate the transom boards together should I drill a bunch of small holes in it first to let the air escape? I’ve seen builds on here where it’s done with holes drilled and without...I’m gonna get some pics later, right now I’m sweating my bag off. Also what works best for applying the resin on? I would assume just get a bunch of cheep throw away paint brushes...

[Jmr1974]

468028 All the materials I had on the pallet weighed 250lbs, so whatever the plastic jugs and cardboard weigh could be deducted from that. I’m not gonna get that crazy tho. Anybody got a guess what the bare bones hull weight is?

[tnelsmn]

CSM looks the same on both sides. 1708 will have the shiny side and the "dull" chop strand side. CSM doesn't matter what way it goes. 1708 think of the chop side as having the better adhesion. When I did my transom I put the chop side to the hull, then scuffed the shiny side after it cured with 36g on a DA, then used CSM to to bond the transom boards to the hull.

Yes drill holes to let air and excess resin escape. I did a 1/8" hole about every inch.

I've been using .99 paint brushes for applying resin. You'll want a finned roller for working out air bubbles in CSM.

[Jmr1974]

CSM looks the same on both sides. 1708 will have the shiny side and the "dull" chop strand side. CSM doesn't matter what way it goes. 1708 think of the chop side as having the better adhesion. When I did my transom I put the chop side to the hull, then scuffed the shiny side after it cured with 36g on a DA, then used CSM to to bond the transom boards to the hull.

Yes drill holes to let air and excess resin escape. I did a 1/8" hole about every inch.

I've been using .99 paint brushes for applying resin. You'll want a finned roller for working out air bubbles in CSM.
I’m gonna drill the holes like you did, just got back from buying a pile of cheep brushes, wish I would’ve thought of the roller while I was there. What’s a finned roller look like anyway? Do you have a pic of it? I’ll have to run and get one in the morning. Thanks.

[Jmr1974]

468031Got the transom laminated this morning, hopefully I can get the damn weights off after this sets up... if you look closely you can see the resin oozing out of all the holes.

[tnelsmn]

Looks good! Here are the finned rollers I'm talking about. Can also be found on Amazon and such.
https://www.expresscomposites.com/laminating-rollers

[Jmr1974]

468272468273 Just got done installing my transom, just needs to cure now. I used a layer of 1708 against the transom skin first then put the laminated coosa boards against it. I was debating to just do the 1708 skin tonight, let it cure, then tomorrow rough it up and then put in the coosa but decided to go for broke and do it all in one shot. Saves me the roughing up step, hope it works....

[Jmr1974]

Made a little progress today, got some 1708 laid up on the hull under the deck and patched some thin spots on the hull. Pulled my clamps from the transom and filled the voids between it and the hull with thickened epoxy. Some roughing up tomorrow then continue laying 1708.468457468458468459468460

[Jmr1974]

Got some more 1708 down today. Working my way back to the transom. Next I’ll work on the inside of the transom, over lapping it onto the hull, then my last strip of the 1708 can go in locking it all together. Hoping next weekend is core time! If I had a solid weekend to work on this boat without any interruptions I’d be able to make some serious hay, Kids baseball and all that other good stuff trumps it tho.468484468485

[Jmr1974]

I need to figure out what I’m going buy for a permanent fuel tank so I can space my knees correctly... looks like I’m gonna have to settle for a 19 gallon in order to fit it under my splashwell. The one I was looking at is 26”x16”x14.25, in will stick out further than I want but I can build a back seat to hide it. The tank I’m describing is a plastic Moeller tank. I think I can get an aluminum tank with the same configuration, what’s better aluminum or plastic? I think aluminum is about $100 more but don’t care about the price if it’s better.

[Jmr1974]

468703468704Got the transom and the last section of Hull glassed in tonight. How do you guys avoid air pockets. Im using a finned roller and working them out as much as I can before the resin kicks off but can’t seem to get all of them.... Maybe it is what it is since I’m not a professional shop with all the right tools and tricks...

[rjdubiel]

a plastic bondo spreader helps, I have just used my hands as well, but you may need a bubble buster roller. You really need to work this thicker glass. Smaller sections of glass are easier to work with just over lap them and you will end up with 2 layers of it in one application. I still have issues with it as well but I am a novice as well.

[rjdubiel]

I need to figure out what I’m going buy for a permanent fuel tank so I can space my knees correctly... looks like I’m gonna have to settle for a 19 gallon in order to fit it under my splashwell. The one I was looking at is 26”x16”x14.25, in will stick out further than I want but I can build a back seat to hide it. The tank I’m describing is a plastic Moeller tank. I think I can get an aluminum tank with the same configuration, what’s better aluminum or plastic? I think aluminum is about $100 more but don’t care about the price if it’s better.

I went with the triangle plastic moeller tank, i think this one is 17 or 19 gallons, cant remember now.
468718
468719

[Jmr1974]

I went with the triangle plastic moeller tank, i think this one is 17 or 19 gallons, cant remember now.
468718
468719thanks, where did you get the rigging sleeves for the top of your splashwell? I just ordered a RDS 18 gallon aluminum tank, it’s about 13.5”tall so I shouldn’t have to modify the front of my splashwell.

[tnelsmn]

You're making quick work of this build, good job! I used a small cheap shower squeegee to help layout 1708.

[Jmr1974]

You're making quick work of this build, good job! I used a small cheap shower squeegee to help layout 1708. thanks, it’s going pretty good. I’ve been referencing your build a lot and hoping it turns out as nice. Hoping to get the core in with this extended weekend.

[rjdubiel]

thanks, where did you get the rigging sleeves for the top of your splashwell? I just ordered a RDS 18 gallon aluminum tank, it’s about 13.5”tall so I shouldn’t have to modify the front of my splashwell.

Eddie Marine, I still have to finish and put on the hose over all my wires. I already reroute the steering hoses so they do not go through these anymore
https://www.eddiemarine.com/shop/outboard-products/steering-hose-kit-1/outboard-hose-kit

[Jmr1974]

Getting down to the core of things! 468793468796468797468798

[Jmr1974]

Getting down to the core of things! 468793468796468797468798 I don’t know what’s up with the sideways pics but if someone knows how to get rid of them go for it.

[Jmr1974]

Eddie Marine, I still have to finish and put on the hose over all my wires. I already reroute the steering hoses so they do not go through these anymore
https://www.eddiemarine.com/shop/outboard-products/steering-hose-kit-1/outboard-hose-kitwhat is that carbon looking cover on your splashwell? How does it stick on? I like the idea of doing that, the top of the splashwell will get a lot of traffic when climbing in and out of the boat while out swimming. Also what brand is your hydraulic steering system? I was gonna go with just dual cable but am starting to lean towards hydraulic.

[Jmr1974]

I’m literally 8sqft short on core material from finishing the core up under the deck, oh well I ordered it and it’s in route. I’m calling it a victory for today. Time for some food, beers and fireworks!468828468828468829

[Jmr1974]

The rest of my core showed up today so I was able to finish it, got some 1708 laid over some of it also. Now I’m almost out of resin. Got about a half gallon left and a gallon of hardener. Ordered 3 more gallons of resin and 1.5 gallons of hardener, we’ll see how far that gets me. Hope to be onto stringers and knees by the weekend.468951468952

[Jmr1974]

The core is in a complete sandwich now, happy to be done with that! Also put another layer of 1708 on the transom (2 layers now) I have my knees fitted but not glassed in yet. I’m also going to be using my knees as a seat base, you can see the mock-up in the pic. Next will be cutting and fitting the stringers, ran this morning and picked up a few sheets of 1/2” marine ply for stringers and floor.469248469249469250469251

[Merc 2.5]

The core is in a complete sandwich now, happy to be done with that! Also put another layer of 1708 on the transom (2 layers now) I have my knees fitted but not glassed in yet. I’m also going to be using my knees as a seat base, you can see the mock-up in the pic. Next will be cutting and fitting the stringers, ran this morning and picked up a few sheets of 1/2” marine ply for stringers and floor.469248469249469250469251

That's a great idea bout knees and rear seat , I think I'll try use that also , seems like good idea

[Jmr1974]

Calling it a day! Got the knees and a good part of the stringers in today, still have to put fingers off the main stringers and then glass everything in. Also fitted the floor for down the road install.469305469306469307

[tnelsmn]

You're making killer fast progress on this thing! And doing great looking work as well!

[Jmr1974]

You're making killer fast progress on this thing! And doing great looking work as well!
Thanks. To me it seems like it’s going kinda slow but I have nothing to gauge it against, I’ve never restored a boat. I’m a carpenter and in my world things go fast. My goal for now is to get this thing painted before winter hits. My overall goal is to have it on the water next summer. We’ll see what happens...

[tnelsmn]

Thanks. To me it seems like it’s going kinda slow but I have nothing to gauge it against, I’ve never restored a boat. I’m a carpenter and in my world things go fast. My goal for now is to get this thing painted before winter hits. My overall goal is to have it on the water next summer. We’ll see what happens...
I'm almost two years deep in my build. You are progressing much faster than I did! In the water next summer should be no issue from what I'm seeing.

[LakeFever]

Looking great so far! What type of resin are you using?

[Jmr1974]

Looking great so far! What type of resin are you using?
It’s called total boat high performance 2:1 epoxy resin along with 2:1 slow hardener

[Jmr1974]

Well here’s where I’m at, didn’t get a whole lot done this past weekend. Got the stringers and knees partially glassed in. Probably won’t get a whole lot more done over the next 2 weeks, gonna be real busy at work this week, then next week my 2 boys and I are off to the mighty Mississippi for a week long fishing/camping trip.469799469800

[Jmr1974]

Well I’m finally getting back to working on the boat. Not really any further along than my last pic above but did some sanding this morning to continue glassing in my stringers and knees. I’m using 1708 for this and I’m wondering how many layers of the 1708 is sufficient to glass them in? This is gonna take some serious time with the little support fingers I have coming off the main stringers. Depending on the #of layers of 1708 I need to add I will have lots of sanding ahead of me before I could add the next layer. I’ve read on other forums guys use 3 to 4 layers but the boats are over 24’ long and used on rough seas at all times. All I know is the glass on the original exposed stringers was very very thin. So how many layers should I run with?

[LakeFever]

Don’t quote me on this as I have yet to do it but I asked this too and was told you could lay multiple layers up at once to save on sanding. Theres also peel ply which does not require sanding iirc between layers.

also if you wouldn’t mind would you post up a pic of the bottom of your hull I’d like to compare it to a vandal I just bought.

keep after it your doing great

[Merc 2.5]

I tried multiple layers at once , guess u need be kinda quick at glassing, even when I mixed my resin for working time , I still could only get 1 layer at a time , especially around the stringers from what I can tell , practice, practice, practice, until then its sanding and prep for next layer. I did 3 sizes of tabbing and 3 layers 1708 over everything. Overkill always better than to thin etc

[Jmr1974]

I tried multiple layers at once , guess u need be kinda quick at glassing, even when I mixed my resin for working time , I still could only get 1 layer at a time , especially around the stringers from what I can tell , practice, practice, practice, until then its sanding and prep for next layer. I did 3 sizes of tabbing and 3 layers 1708 over everything. Overkill always better than to thin etc
Thanks, yeah I don’t think there’s anyway around it unless you have a helping hand mixing for you and getting what you need. This is gonna take some time, I better get back after it!

[Jmr1974]

Don’t quote me on this as I have yet to do it but I asked this too and was told you could lay multiple layers up at once to save on sanding. Theres also peel ply which does not require sanding iirc between layers.

also if you wouldn’t mind would you post up a pic of the bottom of your hull I’d like to compare it to a vandal I just bought.

keep after it your doing great
Thanks, gonna be tough to get a good pic with the cradle I built under it in the way. Let me know what angle your looking for. If you go back to the beginning of this thread I have a few pics of the boat out in the open, side profile etc. The Ventura hull looks just like the Action boats of the same era, at least to me it does. Somebody copied somebody. Must’ve been a good design. I have a 1987 Valero V-pad and the Ventura hull is quite a bit different except for the pad area and the part under the transom that’s curved way in by the drain plug.

[specboatops]

What lake are you on in Southern Wis ?

[Jmr1974]

What lake are you on in Southern Wis ? I’m not on a lake anymore. I grew up on one just outside of Oconomowoc WI.

[LakeFever]

It looks very similar to my Vandal, your gonna love driving that thing.

[Jmr1974]

471730Well I’ve been picking away at glassing in the stringers, been real busy with work. Probably gonna be like this for a while, only being able to work on the boat an hour here and an hour there. I knew this was going to happen sooner or later, that’s way I came out of the gate running in the beginning. All I can say is each piece of glass I lay is one closer to the end. What I’m doing is laying 3 pieces of 1708 on each side of the stringers with each piece extending longer on to the hull then the piece before it. When I finish all 3 layers on each side of the stringers I’m going to come back and cap of the top of the stringers with 1 layer of 1708. I no some guys go up and over the stringers with each layer, for a novice like me that’s to much to deal with so I decided to focus on one side at a time. I’m able to get all 3 layers done on one side this way which means no sanding between layers!

[Jmr1974]

I did some more glass work on the boat this past Friday night and Saturday. I woke up Sunday morning with extremely swollen eyelids, I looked like Rocky Balboa. Apparently I have become sensitive to epoxy resin according to the info I’m finding online. Today (Monday) my eyelids are still puffy but improving. I’m going to let this completely clear up before doing anymore work on the boat. I ordered a 3m 6800 full face mask with the pink vapor cartridges. I always wear gloves, face mask, tyvek suit and goggles when sanding. When I lay new glass I only wear gloves and I think the vapor from the epoxy resin is what is irritating my eyes. I hope this full 3m face mask will allow me to continue working on the boat. I read some people’s sensitivity gets so bad that they can’t ever touch the stuff again. Anybody ever experience a reaction like this? Moving forward I’ll be using the new mask and run a fan when laying new glass/epoxy and hope for the best. I figured I run into things that would slow my progress down here and there but never expected this.

[Merc 2.5]

I did some more glass work on the boat this past Friday night and Saturday. I woke up Sunday morning with extremely swollen eyelids, I looked like Rocky Balboa. Apparently I have become sensitive to epoxy resin according to the info I’m finding online. Today (Monday) my eyelids are still puffy but improving. I’m going to let this completely clear up before doing anymore work on the boat. I ordered a 3m 6800 full face mask with the pink vapor cartridges. I always wear gloves, face mask, tyvek suit and goggles when sanding. When I lay new glass I only wear gloves and I think the vapor from the epoxy resin is what is irritating my eyes. I hope this full 3m face mask will allow me to continue working on the boat. I read some people’s sensitivity gets so bad that they can’t ever touch the stuff again. Anybody ever experience a reaction like this? Moving forward I’ll be using the new mask and run a fan when laying new glass/epoxy and hope for the best. I figured I run into things that would slow my progress down here and there but never expected this.

Well that sucks man. My wife was doin those custom epoxy tumblers and became allergic after month or so of doin it and had to stop, she ended up with a epi pen thing just incase. Crazy how that works and dosent affect you 1st time using it. Use good gloves and mask. Don't want throat swell up

[Jmr1974]

Well that sucks man. My wife was doin those custom epoxy tumblers and became allergic after month or so of doin it and had to stop, she ended up with a epi pen thing just incase. Crazy how that works and dosent affect you 1st time using it. Use good gloves and mask. Don't want throat swell up
Yeah it sucks, I’m hoping that a full face mask saves my but.

[LakeFever]

If you rub your eyes with glass dust or get airborne sanding dust from glass in there you get eye irritation. Can’t have too good of a respirator that will probably solve it. I use a versaflo now, amazing technology

[Jmr1974]

Bet you guys thought I gave up... well I kinda did for a bit but getting back at it again! 482889482890482891482892482893 Just made the seat box this morning and started the bulkhead in front of it, ran out of plywood. Also picked up a clean clear case yesterday, it just needs a good paint job. So time to order more epoxy resin and hit menards for some more marine plywood.

[Jmr1974]

So I’m getting close to bonding my plywood floor to the top of my stringers. I still have to cap off the top of my stringers and glass the bottom of the plywood, also want to brush some gel coat on the area under the floor and on the stringers before I cover it. What is a good way to bond the floor to the stringers? I’m guessing most guys will say thickened epoxy... I’m not sure I can mix enough and get it down fast before it kicks off. Is there another type of epoxy like in a tube that can be used in a caulk gun that sets up a little slower? This way I can skip the part of mixing peanut butter. Also I’m sure any type of fastener (screws) thru the floor into the stringers is a no no in our type of boats...

[XstreamVking]

You can get empty caulk tubes and fill them yourself. Or even use a gallon bag and cut the corner off. Also get some slower hardener for more time. Epoxy putty is strong and sticky. Weights instead of screws is my go to when possible. You could screw the floor down and after it cures remove them. Lots of ways to do it. If the floor sits tight on the stringers you could lay some strips of very wet glass on the underside of the floor panel and set it into place instead of using putty.

[Jmr1974]

You can get empty caulk tubes and fill them yourself. Or even use a gallon bag and cut the corner off. Also get some slower hardener for more time. Epoxy putty is strong and sticky. Weights instead of screws is my go to when possible. You could screw the floor down and after it cures remove them. Lots of ways to do it. If the floor sits tight on the stringers you could lay some strips of very wet glass on the underside of the floor panel and set it into place instead of using putty. the hardener I’ve been using is 2:1 slow hardener, it still kicks pretty fast when trying to do a big area, it was summer and hot as hell out when I was last working with it, maybe it won’t kick as fast being it’s much colder here now.

[LakeFever]

This vid here shows a guy piping in thickened resin with a bag. He moves quick, maybe this is will help


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8LhiYgYMNk

[XstreamVking]

He's doing a nice job. Like his helpers too. Not sure why the transition to the 5# boards in the front.

[LakeFever]

I've been watching all the layup vids I can to hone the skills before I waste material. That guy has a lot of cool vids, short and to the point which I also really like. Theres one clip that shows how they make thickened cabosil bags by putting the bag into a mixing cup with the top folded down, fill, then fold up and zip. No mess

[XstreamVking]

Bet some old guy that glassed for 30+ yrs taught him that technique. Richie Sutphen showed me that way of doing stringers and bulkheads in the late 70's. I still do it thatta way...

[Jmr1974]

I checked out the video, looks like I need to give the squeeze bag a try for sure.

[tnelsmn]

I've been watching all the layup vids I can to hone the skills before I waste material. That guy has a lot of cool vids, short and to the point which I also really like. Theres one clip that shows how they make thickened cabosil bags by putting the bag into a mixing cup with the top folded down, fill, then fold up and zip. No mess

I found an old coffee can worked well for me. Plenty of those laying around. I think I picked that up from a cooking show. Funny how people from different trades can end up with such similar techniques.

Wish I had helpers like that, would've saved me a ton of time.

[Jmr1974]

So in one of the pics from the other day is a pic of a nice clean gear case I picked up. My plan is to swap all the guts from the beat up one on my motor into the good one. Before I change everything out should I go ahead and do a cone and low water pickup on the empty case? Every thing I read says unless your boat can do 80mph and up there is no benefit to the cone... Not positive but I think the boat should hit 80...

[LakeFever]

I'd cone it and put a torque tab on it empty and do the assembly after.

[transomstand]

So in one of the pics from the other day is a pic of a nice clean gear case I picked up. My plan is to swap all the guts from the beat up one on my motor into the good one. Before I change everything out should I go ahead and do a cone and low water pickup on the empty case? Every thing I read says unless your boat can do 80mph and up there is no benefit to the cone... Not positive but I think the boat should hit 80...

What motor you running?

[Jmr1974]

What motor you running? 1982 235hp crossflow

[transomstand]

1982 235hp crossflow

Cone it, 235 HP will get you to upper 90's

[Jmr1974]

Cone it, 235 HP will get you to upper 90's Haha, yeah I think it’s gonna rip. Gonna do a bobs convertible jack plate with it also.

[transomstand]

Haha, yeah I think it’s gonna rip. Gonna do a bobs convertible jack plate with it also.

Good choice. It won't want much setback with that heavy motor. You'll want to set it up to run as flat as possible. Ventura's ain't like them "pointy things" Howard made, they trap a TON of air. The hull design is a converted tunnel hull, and it still wants to act like one a lotta times.

[Jmr1974]

Good choice. It won't want much setback with that heavy motor. You'll want to set it up to run as flat as possible. Ventura's ain't like them "pointy things" Howard made, they trap a TON of air. The hull design is a converted tunnel hull, and it still wants to act like one a lotta times. what would be the prop of choice? I have a line on a 28pitch chopper...

[XstreamVking]

Transom, what's the history on the conversion from a tunnel hull to the design that we know now? I have never heard of this and am very curious. Thanks....

[transomstand]

what would be the prop of choice? I have a line on a 28pitch chopper...

Chopper is ok but a stock one has limitations. Decent starting point but most of us end up with a dozen or more props anyway:eek:

[transomstand]

Transom, what's the history on the conversion from a tunnel hull to the design that we know now? I have never heard of this and am very curious. Thanks....

It started life as the tunnel hull Panther but Howard realized a tunnel wasn't going to sell as well as a V-hull so they cut it up and he designed the V portion. If you look under the deck in the front of a Ventura you can still see the remains of the tunnels. The story may be on Hydrostream.org, I'll see if I can round up a link.

[Jmr1974]

I got the motor with two raker props, one is a 24pitch dialed in by DAH and the other one is a 23pitch ski prop. The motor came off a heavy 20+ foot Switzer craft.

[transomstand]

I got the motor with two raker props, one is a 24pitch dialed in by DAH and the other one is a 23pitch ski prop. The motor came off a heavy 20+ foot Switzer craft.

Pitch that small will be way too inadequate for the 235 on the Ventura.

[transomstand]

Transom, what's the history on the conversion from a tunnel hull to the design that we know now? I have never heard of this and am very curious. Thanks....

Here it is, from some old interviews Howard did.

hydrostream.org/Drift'n/Driftn1.htm (http://hydrostream.org/Drift'n/Driftn1.htm)

About half way down the page. The Panther looks just like a Ventura I.

Collector Boats - HYDROSTREAMS (https://www.collectorboats.com/hydrostreams/)

[XstreamVking]

Very cool story, I did not know of this evolution. Love the drawn on a paper bag part....Thanks very much Transom stand.

[LakeFever]

Very cool! Thanks x2

Is the Vandal basically a mini Ventura?

[transomstand]

Very cool! Thanks x2

Is the Vandal basically a mini Ventura?

It is in my mind. Not sure if that was Howards intent, but it sure looks it.

[transomstand]

Love the drawn on a paper bag part...

Without paper bags and cocktail napkins, some of the greatest triumphs of mankind never woulda happened:D

[Jmr1974]

Pitch that small will be way too inadequate for the 235 on the Ventura.
By the way your Ventura is an awesome looking boat, it’s what made me want to find one and restore it. That and they are a little more uncommon as far as hydrostream go. If I didn’t buy the one I’m restoring it was headed to the junk yard the owner told me, gone for good.

[transomstand]

By the way your Ventura is an awesome looking boat

Thanks. But if you REALLY want to get set up right....you need to hire a bunny as a technical advisor. He taught me everything I know

https://i.imgur.com/TcKE7Rs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4IbXKS1.jpg

[Jmr1974]

Haha, maybe I’ll get myself a jackalope to ride shotgun...

[Jmr1974]

Gonna finish capping of my stringers today then work on the underside of my floor plywood. Should I use 1708 for the underside or csm? The top of the floor will be 1708.

[transomstand]

Underside of mine is just sealed with resin. If you wanna cover it, just csm, the plywood doesn't need additional strength.

[Jmr1974]

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
Underside of mine is just sealed with resin. If you wanna cover it, just csm, the plywood doesn't need additional strength.

[Jmr1974]

483248483249 Got the underside of my floor epoxied up with one layer of resin, gonna let it tack up and add another layer of resin. I opted to just do the epoxy on the underside and not add the csm, also added 2 cleats where the gas tank will be mounted. Also got my stringers all capped off and a drain plug block made out of 2 pieces of coosa epoxied together with csm in between, just need to shape the block and glass it in. So glad the stringers are finished, I’m sick of kneeling down in the boat at goofy angles. This is becoming fun now.

[Jmr1974]

483250 This is the epoxy I’m using, this stuff is really easy to work with now that I can control the temperature in my shop, it kicks nice and slow unlike in the summer when it was hot as hell it kicks much quicker. Food for thought for anyone thinking of using this stuff. It will also lighten your wallet up. I was gonna gel coat my stringers but now just planning on giving them a light sanding and then putting another coat of the epoxy on. This stuff cures to a glass finish and will do the same thing the gel would do.

[Jmr1974]

483256 Drain holes drilled in stringer fingers and sealed with epoxy.

[transomstand]

483250 This is the epoxy I’m using, this stuff is really easy to work with now that I can control the temperature in my shop, it kicks nice and slow unlike in the summer when it was hot as hell it kicks much quicker. Food for thought for anyone thinking of using this stuff. It will also lighten your wallet up. I was gonna gel coat my stringers but now just planning on giving them a light sanding and then putting another coat of the epoxy on. This stuff cures to a glass finish and will do the same thing the gel would do.

Epoxy resin should be more waterproof than gel coat anyway, and it eliminates any "poly over epoxy" issues.

[Jmr1974]

483330483331 Things are moving along, next is to tab the floor in and glass over it all.

[Jmr1974]

Just finished tabbing the floor in. I used the squeeze bag method with thickened epoxy for the fillets and it worked like a charm. Next I need to get a new block up front for the front eye bolt then I’ll work on the front bulkhead. So glad I’ll never ever have to look at the stringers again! The stringers were the most tedious time consuming part of the project. It’s all downhill from here on out.483900483901

[Jmr1974]

484252484253484254Gaining some ground today!

[LakeFever]

Home stretch now! Looking good

[Jmr1974]

484317484319Got my bulkhead framed in and a new bow block out of coosa in.ran out of epoxy resin again, more is on its way though.484320 Oh boy, looks like my kid has this disease.

[Jmr1974]

Got the bulkhead and seat box tabbed in today, also glassed the front eye bolt in and tabbed in the corners of my rear seat.485351485352485353485354I have a layer of 1708 over my floor running from the bow all the way to about 2” behind the seat box, I obviously did this before I put the bulkhead and seat box down, I’ll continue with the 1708 over the floor as I work my way to the back of the boat. The seat box and bulk head lids are just screwed down for now so I could keep everything square while the glass hardens, once it cures I’ll pop off the lids and tab the insides of bulkhead and seat box and continue on.

[Jmr1974]

Today I tabbed in the inside of the seat box, the inside of the bulkhead and tabbed in the toe kick for my rear seat. 485394485395After things harden I’ll drill drain holes in the seat box, bulkhead and toe kick until then I’m calling it a victory for the weekend.

[Jmr1974]

Anybody have alternative cleaning chemicals other than acetone? Every time I get done working on the boat my eyelids swell up and it usually takes about 5 days to clear up. It’s either the acetone or the epoxy that’s doing it, I use a tyvek suit with a 3m respirator when sanding and vacuum everything up before in take the suit and respirator off. This weekend I tried something funny and put pieces of flexible medical tape over my eyelids before I started work on the boat and left it on the entire day ( both days) and took a shower as soon as I was done working. I figured I could use the extra protection and possibly rule out that the fiberglass dust was what is making my eyelids swell, well wake up Sunday morning and eyelids are all puffed up... now I’m thinking it’s either the acetone or epoxy, I use the acetone to clean all my tools and buckets after each batch of epoxy which is a lot of times in a 8hr work day, is there something other than acetone to use for this? Remember I’m using epoxy.

[tnelsmn]

Ever consider a full face respirator? I wore one of these when grinding all the gelcoat off. Uses the same cartridges as a half respirator.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POIWAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Jmr1974]

Ever consider a full face respirator? I wore one of these when grinding all the gelcoat off. Uses the same cartridges as a half respirator.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POIWAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The one I have is just like that it totally seals my head off.

[tnelsmn]

The one I have is just like that it totally seals my head off.

Oh damn. Well I got nothing then. Hope you can find a solution!

[Jmr1974]

Oh damn. Well I got nothing then. Hope you can find a solution!
Next I’m gonna use a fan when doing the work, blow the fumes away from me...

[99fxst99]

I used a long narrow 12gal tank laid between the inner stringers, centered between the seat box and the front of the splashwell. THis balanced the boat very well.

[Jmr1974]

485473485474
I used a long narrow 12gal tank laid between the inner stringers, centered between the seat box and the front of the splashwell. THis balanced the boat very well. I’m using a 18gal tank that will be hidden behind the rear seat, the seat will be hinged so I can access everything behind it.

[Jmr1974]

So as I get closer to having the entire inside of my boat completely covered in a layer of 1708 what should be the finished layer? Should I cover all the 1708 with a layer of csm for the finish or should I roll on more epoxy to smooth our the mat, I have a bunch of csm left over. I’m undecided if I will paint or gel coat the interior but what ever I do I’m going to give it that splattered look like a lot of guys are doing to give it a texture (grippy) effect. Also will gel coat even work over epoxy?

[transomstand]

I would think either would be fine.

[tnelsmn]

I would add CSM to smooth out the 1708. Gelcoat won't work over epoxy. You'll have to find a different solution. Awl-grip, etc.

[Jmr1974]

I would add CSM to smooth out the 1708. Gelcoat won't work over epoxy. You'll have to find a different solution. Awl-grip, etc.
Why is it that gel won’t work over epoxy? The one thing I wanted to gel for sure was the running surface of the boat but first I have to fix all the gouges and and straighten all the strakes and pad. I guess I shouldn’t use any epoxy for this if I’m gonna gel coat it. I could paint the running surface I suppose... the boat will never sit in the water for more than 8hrs at a time. I figured gel on the bottom would be more durable for driving on the trailer and sand bar beaching. If you look back at pics of my boat it is two tone red and white, my plan is to keep it white on the bottom like it already is then paint the red a metallic battleship grey.

[transomstand]

There's a big debate on this, but polyester over epoxy can have compatibility issues. Some want a barrier coat over the epoxy. West says it's ok over fully cured epoxy but the trick is to figure out when the epoxy has cured enough.

In any case, epoxy is always tougher than gel coat. The first penetration of the core in my boat was at the front of the V where it actually wore through from beaching. I repaired it much thicker than the original and some years later added an epoxy based "rash guard" just to be on the safe side.

Unless you're doing a show boat type restoration, mixing epoxy with thickener and white pigment will work fine to fill the gouges. I used cabosil as a thickener but that can be hard to sand.

[Jmr1974]

There's a big debate on this, but polyester over epoxy can have compatibility issues. Some want a barrier coat over the epoxy. West says it's ok over fully cured epoxy but the trick is to figure out when the epoxy has cured enough.

In any case, epoxy is always tougher than gel coat. The first penetration of the core in my boat was at the front of the V where it actually wore through from beaching. I repaired it much thicker than the original and some years later added an epoxy based "rash guard" just to be on the safe side.

Unless you're doing a show boat type restoration, mixing epoxy with thickener and white pigment will work fine to fill the gouges. I used cabosil as a thickener but that can be hard to sand. yes the epoxy is some serious stuff, I have drips of it on the old dirty gel and you ain’t getting it off unless you chisel or grind it off. I also have drips on my polished concrete floor and it ain’t coming off, the epoxy will cure rock hard in a bucket of water.

[Jmr1974]

485621 Final Layer of 1708 went over my floor tonight, also tabbed in the back side of my rear seat toe kick. I drilled oversized drain holes in my bulkhead, seat box and toe kick, then I filled them back in with thickened epoxy and glassed a small piece of 1708 over the holes, when it hardens I’ll drill them back out with a smaller bit that way no chance moisture will be able to get to the wood. A little overkill I guess...

[Jmr1974]

Front bulkhead is complete, tabbed in, one layer of 1708 and a layer of csm. Worked on the splashwell delete also, thickened epoxy around the perimeter followed by one layer of 1708. Calling it a day.485671

[Jmr1974]

Oh yeah, also put a layer of 1708 on the underside of my seat box lid before I close it up.485672

[Jmr1974]

Got a layer of csm down from the bulkhead to the front of the seat box. Also the seat box lid is permanently on now along with 3/8” t-nuts and bolts. Next is to glass the seat box and continue with csm to the back of the boat.485728

[Jmr1974]

What are you guys doing when it comes to protecting the hull number on the back of the boat when sanding and preparing the boat for a different paint color?

[Jmr1974]

First new part showed up for the boat today, now I can build my mounting block for it.485878

[Hippie459MN]

Got a layer of csm down from the bulkhead to the front of the seat box. Also the seat box lid is permanently on now along with 3/8” t-nuts and bolts. Next is to glass the seat box and continue with csm to the back of the boat.
485728

Them T-Nuts should have went in from the bottom. They will pull out very easily from the top like that. Ask me how I know. LoL

[Jmr1974]

Them T-Nuts should have went in from the bottom. They will pull out very easily from the top like that. Ask me how I know. LoL yes I thought of doing that, I figured if they loosen up on the underside and I go to pull a bolt the nut will fall to the bottom of the seatbox and I will be stuck listening to an annoying nut rolling around under my but. I actually drilled the holes slightly larger just so the teeth on t-nut still could dig in and filled it with PL glue. On the top side I plan to feather them out with thickened epoxy and glass completely over them them, then retap the holes. If they don’t hold up I have some aluminum angle I’ll use to make a rail bracket with heavy duty stainless screws. Actually I kinda like this idea...

[Jmr1974]

485989485990485991 Gonna glass in the foot throttle block today. what a pain in the but figuring out a comfortable place for it, I dicked around over an hour last night moving it back and forth and side to side before setting on where it sits, I have it cocked at a slight angle so the cable won’t interfere with the corner of the seat box. Added some glass under the rigging holes, gonna eliminate them. Don’t see a reason to keep them, I plan to use hydraulic steering and should be able to route everything under the deck and up thru the splashwell delete, plus one less place for water to get in. Also filed in the top of the knees where the rear seat sits so they follow the angle of the seat, didn’t realize this when I made them way back when.

[Jmr1974]

486012486013486014Hot foot block is in, made a shifter block and did a little more build up on the splashwell delete and old rigging holes. I’m gonna do most of the glassing on the shifter block on the saw horses then tab it in.

[Jmr1974]

486402 Gots me some more pieces to the puzzle ( nosecone kit).

[Jmr1974]

487373Anyone know how thick I can go with this fairing compound? I’m using it on my splashwell delete, I should’ve ran my plywood higher than I’d did so now I’ve got to build it up anywhere from 3/8” to 1/4” as it tapers back to the transom to match the sides of the original splashwell... already have 2 layers of 1708 on it.

[Jmr1974]

487374Just got this 28p chopper for my 235 that’s going on the boat. It’s mint aside from being dusty from sitting in the guys barn. Not bad for 150.00 shipping included, DAH must’ve got ahold of it also as it’s stamped on the side.

[transomstand]

487374Just got this 28p chopper for my 235 that’s going on the boat. It’s mint aside from being dusty from sitting in the guys barn. Not bad for 150.00 shipping included, DAH must’ve got ahold of it also as it’s stamped on the side.

Small ear, looks like John added some cup. Be interesting to see how that works.

[Jmr1974]

487388487389487390
Small ear, looks like John added some cup. Be interesting to see how that works.
so the guy I bought the prop from said he thought it came off a merc, my plan was to get it rehubbed for my OMC. I didn’t realize the splines on the prop would even go on the OMC prop shaft without rehubbing it... in the 1st pic is the sequence of how the washers go without the prop, 2nd pic shows prop on shaft all the way bottomed out on large washer behind prop, 3rd pic shows front of shaft sticking out with the splines. the front washer is to large OD to slide in, do I need different washers for this chopper style prop or do I actually need to rehub it?

[rjdubiel]

it should work, just need to find the right thrust washer and use some spacers on the nut side

[rjdubiel]

looks like it was drilled out for an OMC already too

[XstreamVking]

For a 3/8-1/4'' fill job I would prefer to bond down some 1/4'' divinnycell foam. Fair to within 1/8'' and run a layer of 1708 over it. If you want to use a lot of filler, (a gallon?) fair with filler to 1/16'' and cover with 1.5 oz mat.

[Jmr1974]

For a 3/8-1/4'' fill job I would prefer to bond down some 1/4'' divinnycell foam. Fair to within 1/8'' and run a layer of 1708 over it. If you want to use a lot of filler, (a gallon?) fair with filler to 1/16'' and cover with 1.5 oz mat.
I like your first option, all I need is a 2’x3’ piece of it. I’ll see what sizes the place I’ve ordered all my stuff from offer. Hopefully shipping isn’t outrageous for just one piece. Thanks.

[Jmr1974]

For a 3/8-1/4'' fill job I would prefer to bond down some 1/4'' divinnycell foam. Fair to within 1/8'' and run a layer of 1708 over it. If you want to use a lot of filler, (a gallon?) fair with filler to 1/16'' and cover with 1.5 oz mat.
How about core cell grid scored? It comes in thicknesses of 1/8” and up, I used core cell for my core. Divinnycell is out of stock like everything else in this world today. I’m not even sure core cell is in stock, it says (limited stock)so I’m calling them tomorrow.

[Jmr1974]

looks like it was drilled out for an OMC already too
Sweet, looks like I did alright on the purchase. Thanks.

[Jmr1974]

Haven’t worked on the boat in a month. Ended that drought yesterday.488341488342488343seat box,shifter block and rear seat toe kick are complete with a layer of 1708 and a layer of csm on them. Next I need to finish putting a layer of csm on the hull from the seat box to the back of the boat, from the front of the seat box to the front of the boat the hull is complete. Also need to make a block to mount the battery on.

[Jmr1974]

488478488479488480488481Excited to say the inside of my hull is complete, final layer of csm went down today. Also did a little sanding on the old rigging holes I covered up. Next need to build a battery block, finish the splashwell delete and fill in the holes in the dashboard.

[Jmr1974]

488900 So I want to start working on this, my plan was to buy a cheap harbor freight sandblaster and prep it, then take it to a welder to have the cone tack welded on, pick it up when he’s done then do the fairing and paint myself. Is sandblasting it a good idea or bad to remove the factory paint?

[XstreamVking]

Just blast or sand to remove the paint where you will be welding and fairing. Have the welder keep the vent plug cracked while welding on it. It prevents it from blowing out the seals due to oil/air expansion from heat.

[Jmr1974]

Just blast or sand to remove the paint where you will be welding and fairing. Have the welder keep the vent plug cracked while welding on it. It prevents it from blowing out the seals due to oil/air expansion from heat.
There’s nothing in the gear case (no guts). I’m swapping everything out of my old gear case into this one after it’s finished. Should I have him weld the water intake holes shut also or fill them with epoxy myself?

[XstreamVking]

Either way works , I prefer welding and then filling with epoxy.

[Jmr1974]

Also you mentioned just to blast only the area needed for the cone, why not do the whole case and start with a clean slate? I’m not going to match the factory paint, completely new color.

[XstreamVking]

Blasting completely is ok. You will have to start all over with the corrosion coatings and prep.

[Jmr1974]

Blasting completely is ok. You will have to start all over with the corrosion coatings and prep.
Yep, that’s what I figured I’d have to do. Thanks.

[tnelsmn]

I used to weld for a living and personally have never been a fan of welding on aluminum after its been sand blasted. I would grind/sand/wire brush if I was doing it. I just used a 60 grit on a 5" grinder to prep mine.

[Jmr1974]

489528Did a couple hours work on the splashwell delete today. I’m thinking this final layer of csm should get me close enough to being able to use the fairing compound to finish it out.

[Jmr1974]

489530Straight on view, pretty close to blending.

[Jmr1974]

489708489709Did my first coat of fairing on my splashwell delete tonight and some other miscellaneous spots like old rigging holes. I’m using a 2part fairing compound called total boat, total fair epoxy fairing compound. I’ll let it harden up over night then give it a sanding hopefully tomorrow and see where I need to add more.

[Jmr1974]

489955489956489957Still working on the splashwell,getting pretty close with that and the old rigging holes. Also started sanding the red paint off to get to the old red gel coat. I’m using a 5” orbital sander with 80grit to sand off the paint, should I stick with the 80 or go a little more aggressive on the grit? With the 80 I can watch the paint disappear and then the primer shows and then I get to the gel coat, this takes awhile with the 80grit but allows me to be careful not to go to deep into the gel (less fairing to do later). Everything above the rub rail has been painted and I believe everything below the rub rail is just faded gel coat.

[Jmr1974]

Anybody got an opinion on weather I should stick with 80grit on the orbital sander to get rid of the paint and primer or should I drop down to something like 60grit to speed up the process?

[LakeFever]

Many guys have success with paint stripper for this if the sanding is a pita. In auto body work for paint sanding we used 180 and jitterbug sanders. Ingersoll Rand makes a good one takes a half sheet. Gel goes on an 80grit finish so it might be best to stick with the 80 if your going to keep sanding it off. The speed of 60vs80 for cutting down paint would be minimal imo

[XstreamVking]

I would stick with the 80.

[Jmr1974]

I would stick with the 80.
Will do. I’m planning to paint the boat, is 80grit proper for accepting paint primer? I might gel coat the running surface tho. if you look back at one of the pics of my boat on the trailer you’ll see where the bottom is white, this is the area I may just repair and redo the gel in white. Can I add new gel to old gel with the proper prep work?

[XstreamVking]

If re-doing the white gel, sand and repair, then use some thinned spray gel as a primer for the whole thing. Sand that smooth with 150 grit and do a finish spray of several coats of gel thinned with styrene out of a decent gun. Gel needs to have wax additive also. 1.8 tip is best and I prefer a HVLP gun. After cure it can be fine sanded and polished if desired.

[Jmr1974]

If re-doing the white gel, sand and repair, then use some thinned spray gel as a primer for the whole thing. Sand that smooth with 150 grit and do a finish spray of several coats of gel thinned with styrene out of a decent gun. Gel needs to have wax additive also. 1.8 tip is best and I prefer a HVLP gun. After cure it can be fine sanded and polished if desired.
Ok thanks. I’ll probably hit you up with a few more ?’s about that when I get to the bottom, I’m kinda bouncing around right now. I get sick of doing one thing after awhile on the boat then start something new. Lol.

[LakeFever]

Most paints look decent with surface prep of 320 dry or 400 wet. Most quality 2k epoxy primers will fill 180 but no courser than that or over time it will sink and you’ll see scratch lines under the paint

regarding the 2k primer I would do any fairing ( body work ) over the glass and prime the whole deck before paint with a really high quality brand primer ( sikkens, basf, ppg etc ) and then prep for paint with 180/240/320 adding more 2k if need be. Don’t be afraid to use lots of 2k it fills voids and blocks out all imperfections if your patient. Clean, clean, clean all surfaces first. Soap and water then chemical. I like to use reducer but it’s a bit pricey. There are wax and silicone removers paint prep cleaners specifically for this too.

[Jmr1974]

Most paints look decent with surface prep of 320 dry or 400 wet. Most quality 2k epoxy primers will fill 180 but no courser than that or over time it will sink and you’ll see scratch lines under the paint

regarding the 2k primer I would do any fairing ( body work ) over the glass and prime the whole deck before paint with a really high quality brand primer ( sikkens, basf, ppg etc ) and then prep for paint with 180/240/320 (tel:180/240/320) adding more 2k if need be. Don’t be afraid to use lots of 2k it fills voids and blocks out all imperfections if your patient. Clean, clean, clean all surfaces first. Soap and water then chemical. I like to use reducer but it’s a bit pricey. There are wax and silicone removers paint prep cleaners specifically for this too. Is 2k a brand of epoxy primer or just a general term for epoxy primer?

[Jmr1974]

If re-doing the white gel, sand and repair, then use some thinned spray gel as a primer for the whole thing. Sand that smooth with 150 grit and do a finish spray of several coats of gel thinned with styrene out of a decent gun. Gel needs to have wax additive also. 1.8 tip is best and I prefer a HVLP gun. After cure it can be fine sanded and polished if desired.
After reading through your reply again I have a ? So after I do the primer gel then sanding with 150 and am ready to add the layers of gel over that, do I have to add layer after layer while it’s wet or can I add a layer, come back another day and do more over the cured gel? In other words, do I have to do it all in one shot to avoid sanding between coats.

[Jmr1974]

Lakefever, when I googled 2k epoxy primer this is one of the brands that popped up490044this happens to be the place and the brand (total boat) of all the materials I’ve used for the build thus far.

[XstreamVking]

You want to shoot a coat, let it set up some and hit it again. Maybe a coat every 1/2 hr.-1 hr. Min. 3 coats. Let it cure overnight and yes, you will have to sand again.

[Jmr1974]

You want to shoot a coat, let it set up some and hit it again. Maybe a coat every 1/2 hr.-1 hr. Min. 3 coats. Let it cure overnight and yes, you will have to sand again.
Ok, so when I get to this part of work on the boat and plan out enough time in the day I should be able to do the minimum of 3 coats, (maybe more if I want) then the only sanding I should have to do is the final sanding to get it to shine... is my thinking correct? This is if I follow the directions you explained to me... Did I mention I hate sanding

[LakeFever]

My old school stripes are showing here. 2K is a type of epoxy primer that is hard and strong and is excellent long term surfacer because a quality one will not shrink. Shrink is what affects bond and also what shows all the body work patches and scratches under the paint over time.

Nowadays it’s all water base stuff and that’s long after my time really so I might be sending ya on a wild goose chase. Best thing to do is find a pro local auto refinishing supplier who sells name brand product and tell them what your doing and if the supplier is good? They will be able to guide you through all the product and steps you need to take. They can spec sanding grit for every step of the way too.

sanding is 95% of the work unfortunately. I don’t mind it, you just have to accept its hours and hours of effort and you can plan out all your other work while sanding. It doesn’t take a lot of brains just a lot of time

[Jmr1974]

My old school stripes are showing here. 2K is a type of epoxy primer that is hard and strong and is excellent long term surfacer because a quality one will not shrink. Shrink is what affects bond and also what shows all the body work patches and scratches under the paint over time.

Nowadays it’s all water base stuff and that’s long after my time really so I might be sending ya on a wild goose chase. Best thing to do is find a pro local auto refinishing supplier who sells name brand product and tell them what your doing and if the supplier is good? They will be able to guide you through all the product and steps you need to take. They can spec sanding grit for every step of the way too.

sanding is 95% of the work unfortunately. I don’t mind it, you just have to accept its hours and hours of effort and you can plan out all your other work while sanding. It doesn’t take a lot of brains just a lot of time
Yep, if it was easy everybody would do it. I don’t know if that total boat stuff I posted is water based or not, I’ll have to call and find out. I had a guy that owns a body shop do some work on a truck for me, I got to know him pretty good so I can talk to him and see if he can get me some of the stuff your talking about. Do you know if the epoxy you recommend works below the waterline? Some of it will be below the waterline...

[LakeFever]

I don’t think any of the auto paints are rated for below the water line but I don’t think you’ll have much problem unless it’s sitting in the drink for days on end. I used RM product and their 2k and base/clear was all urethane products. It’s quite resilient and the 2K primer RM made was called dp20 and that stuff is hard as a rock and twice as tough. The only downside to it was it’s extremely hard to sand. Sikkens 2k primer was much easier to sand and was also excellent at resisting shrink although I don’t think it was as tough as the RM primer.

[Jmr1974]

I don’t think any of the auto paints are rated for below the water line but I don’t think you’ll have much problem unless it’s sitting in the drink for days on end. I used RM product and their 2k and base/clear was all urethane products. It’s quite resilient and the 2K primer RM made was called dp20 and that stuff is hard as a rock and twice as tough. The only downside to it was it’s extremely hard to sand. Sikkens 2k primer was much easier to sand and was also excellent at resisting shrink although I don’t think it was as tough as the RM primer.
If you look back at a pic of my boat,everything that is already white I’m gonna fix like xstream explained to me, everything that is currently red gel coat is going to be painted.

[LakeFever]

Looks like a lot of the paint is going below the waterline. For that your best to stick with a paint made for this like awlgrip or imron. There’s others I’m not all that familiar but I have used imron in the past a few times it’s easy to use and holds up extremely well. The one hull we painted was about 35 years ago and it still looks great. It’s a summer boat but it does sit in fresh water all season every year. No peeling. It’s an aluminum boat, we used the correct primer the supplier suggested. That’s the key really you want all the layers of putty, primer, paint and any clears to be long term compatible. Getting paint to stick is easy, getting paint to hold shine and not shrink and lose bond over the long haul is tricky

[Jmr1974]

So it’s been awhile since I’ve worked on the boat. I’m 95% done with the inside which I will finish but thinking about having a professional do the exterior (sanding, fairing, filling gouges, truing the bottom, whatever else needs to be done exterior and painting it). I just don’t have time for the exterior work, so my ? Is does anybody know of a reputable shop or person that you recommend that will do the work? I’m located in southern Wisconsin, I’d like to keep it fairly close to home but would go further to the right guy. Thanks.

[Jmr1974]

505029505030505031505032 Finally got back to doing a little work on the boat today. Somebody thought it was a good idea to fill in the pad flat with what looked to me was auto bondo. Hammer, chisel and grinder and back to the pad that’s been hidden for who knows how many years. As you can see I got some work to do on the bottom to get it back to where it deserves to be. The boat lived a very hard life that is for sure!

[transomstand]

Doesn't look much worse than mine:leaving:

[Jmr1974]

Doesn't look much worse than mine:leaving:
Makes me feel a little better. Nobody can appreciate the amount of work that goes into these restores unless they’ve actually been there.

[LakeFever]

Makes me feel a little better. Nobody can appreciate the amount of work that goes into these restores unless they’ve actually been there.

ive built a lot if things and nothing has handed me my ass harder than restoring this boat im working on. Its a ton of effort, but it is also so very satisfying at the same time. When eating an elephant you do it one bite at a time. Keep going you got this

[Jmr1974]

[QUOTE=LakeFever;3343853]ive built a lot if things and nothing has handed me my ass harder than restoring this boat im working on. Its a ton of effort, but it is also so very satisfying at the same time. When eating an elephant you do it one bite at a time. Keep going you got this[/QUOTE getting that bondo of the pad put a smile on my face and motivates me to press on!

[tnelsmn]

Makes me feel a little better. Nobody can appreciate the amount of work that goes into these restores unless they’ve actually been there.

Truer words never spoken. They're a labor of love for sure.

[Jmr1974]

Well I didn’t get as much done as I planned this extended holiday weekend but I am advancing forward.505490505491505492505493505494in reality I only worked on the boat for about 3hrs this weekend removing the running surface white gel coat, trying to be very careful not to get carried away and go to deep. I’m going to use a small die grinder to get the sides of the strakes. Another hour or two and I’ll be ready to start fine tuning the running surface. Also picked up 2 cheap spray guns and received my duratec primer. I need to open up the tips on the spray guns…. What drill bit do I need to get them open enough? They only came with 1.4 tips or something like that. Happy Memorial Day!