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Jmr1974
05-23-2020, 06:03 PM
Been lurking on this forum for a few years now and finally became a member. I grew up on a lake here in southern Wisconsin.Back in the 1980ís I spent many summers going around and around that lake with my beater boat sunup to sundown along with a few other kids on the lake and there beater boats. It mustíve been the summer of 1988, I was 14yrs old when it happened...... it was a busy weekend on the lake, boats everywhere, we were out bombing around like we always did and out of the boat launch comes this boat... a hydrostream. I was 14yrs old and was no stranger to cool looking boats coming on and of the lake but this was not your ordinary 1980ís cool looking speed boat, this thing was bad a$$ and from that day forward Iíve always wanted one. Fast forward to 2017, Iím laying in bed one night checking out craigslist, scrolling thru the boat section and come across a 1987 hydrostream Valero for sale 20 miles from my house, I called the guy and met up with him the next day and bought the boat immediately, the boat is immaculate everything is original with less than 100hrs on the whole package, I take it out about 4 times a summer otherwise it sits under a cover nicely protected in my garage. After visiting this forum the last few years my interest started shifting to finding another boat and restoring it just how I want it, I started searching and found a Ventura 2, gave the guy $300 for the boat and trailer and brought it home last weekend. I didnít wast any time, I ripped out all the old rigging, Transom and core. The core was so rotten that if I wouldíve just flipped the boat over I think the core stringers and seats wouldíve just fell to the ground. Today I got just about the whole hull ground down, Iíve got about a half day of grinding then Iíll be ready to start giving it a new lease on life. I think Iím leaning towards using coosa board for the core, knees, stringers and transom. I also cut out the splashwell, I think it looks way better without one. The boat is a 1977 by the way. Iíve been a rough and finish carpenter for 27 years but never worked with fiberglass so I hope you guys that have can help me with any?ís I have along the way. My plan is to make my maiden voyage with this rocket a year from today. My thoughts are to use coosa for the core,stringers, knees and transom and also a piece to fill in the splashwell, then use marine plywood for the floor, what do you guys think? Sound like a good plan? Sorry for making this such along post, from here on Iíll try and get right to the point. Iím taking pictures of this whole build but Iím an idiot when it comes to figuring out how to post them. Iíll bet my 13yr old son can figure it out before I can.

tnelsmn
05-25-2020, 01:46 PM
Welcome to the forum! Get that kid of yours onto posting up some pictures of the project. ;)

There's lots of knowledgable people around here that are willing to help. Read a few rebuild threads to get an idea of what you're after. I'm no expert, I'm about finished with my first restoration. But I don't think you want Coosa board as a core material. If you're looking for a composite core Divinycell seems to be the ticket. Coosa would be perfect as stringers, transom, etc. Looking forward to following along with your project!

Jmr1974
05-25-2020, 06:08 PM
Thanks, yeah Iíll check out the divinycell. Iím definitely no gonna use balsa, being a carpenter Wood is the last thing I want to put in this boat. I spent about 4hrs today grinding, Iím now ready to figure out every thing i need and get it ordered. The core I tore out of the boat covered almost the entire hull, it stopped about 3Ē Short of the sides and tapered in as it went up into the bow, Iím wondering if I really need to run the new core that far? Most of the core they sell is 2í wide, I was thinking to go 2í from the edge of the pad which will put it right at the last strake and then run it right up into the bow and terminate it just like it was. I was also going to put a gusset at each side of the deck down to the hull like Iíve seen guys do on other builds on here. Iíll work on the pictures, Iím a picture guy for sure and never been much of a reader so bear with me, they will come.

Jmr1974
05-25-2020, 06:13 PM
One other thing I forgot to ask, there’s foam flotation in the two back corners of the hull, it wasn’t wet at all, is there any reason to get rid of it? I was just gonna leave it be and cover it back up.

scott reierson
05-25-2020, 08:55 PM
JMR 1974,

I had a 1976 Ventura II. I tried 3 different engines and setup on it. There is a a lot of info and experience on available on this. If I remember correctly mine only had foam under the bow deck and seat box

Some of the guys on this site from WI who have owned or currently have Ventura's, will probably chime in. Glass work is a dusty, itchy job. The stuff gets everywhere. Use the right gear, protect your lungs and skin.

Let us know if we can help.

Scott

Jmr1974
05-26-2020, 04:43 PM
Scott, out of the 3 motors And setups you had which did you like the best? I’m planning on Something in the 175-200hp range, I might just put the 175 Mariner that’s on my Valero now onto the Ventura, it already has a coned lower and low water pickup plus it has low hours. As far as the jack plate goes I’m kinda undecided on manual vs hydro, I have a hydraulic jack plate on my Valero, it’s nice but there’s really only 2 sweet spots with it, one for fast runs and one for pulling the kid on a tube or waterski, some guys mention not much setback is needed on the Ventura and that a bobs convertible manual jack works real good. If I can get away with a manual jack that I can adjust fairly easy by hand I might go that route. I want to keep the boat fairly simple, minimal needed gauges etc.

Jmr1974
05-27-2020, 05:27 AM
Anyone have any suggestions on who I should order my core materials from? Jamestown distributors has a lot of offerings, anyone use them? I open to all suggestions. I’m probably going to use core cell for the core and Coosa for transom, stringers and knees. Thanks.

LakeFever
05-27-2020, 07:34 AM
Great story! I can relate to the memories of seeing streams sparking dreams of eventual ownership. These are special boats and I look forward to seeing your build progress. Welcome to scream and fly

scott reierson
05-27-2020, 02:29 PM
Boat had full factory interior

1. 15" Merc 2.5 mild mod 225 promax with a sporty. Not for the timid. Lots of Boat weight setup and Specific rigging. 100+ easy. Never took it as fast as it could go. Dangerous for the inexperienced. Lots of bow lift. Fun!

2. 20" Merc stock 2.4 200 Carb Bobs case. Low to mid eighties

3. 20" OMC Modded 140 Cross flow. 70 ish

Jmr1974
05-27-2020, 03:48 PM
Scott, option #2 on your last post is exactly what I’m shooting for.

Jmr1974
05-27-2020, 03:57 PM
466593466594466596466595466597

Jmr1974
05-27-2020, 04:03 PM
Here’s some pics shortly after I got it home, you can see I had started getting the transom out. I need to snap some more pics, I am a lot further along now, core and transom are gone and everything is ground down ready for new stuff, I just need to get it ordered. I would say it took me about 16hrs to get to this point.

Jmr1974
05-27-2020, 05:14 PM
Just snapped more pics of how far along I am, I still need to do some work cleaning up the pad. Somebody cut the transom down for whatever reason�� that will be fixed back to normal when I do the transom.466598466599466600466601466602

Jmr1974
05-27-2020, 05:31 PM
I actually think I might keep the seats that were in the boat, their a fiberglass shell bucket style, I’ll have them painted and reupholstered, also you can see in the pics how far the old core went to the sides, do I need to go that far or can I go from the edge of the pad 2’ wide the run it all the way up under the bow till it terminates, seems the pad material comes in 2’x4’ pieces. Anybody have an idea of how much fiberglass cloth I’ll need? I’m going to put a new layer of cloth on the hull then sandwich the core with another layer on top, then I need enough for the transom and splashwell delete.

Hydrovair
05-27-2020, 08:57 PM
That is a rare hull you have there, that is a comp racing hull, and those are the original Hydrostream seats, so worth saving....

scott reierson
05-27-2020, 10:35 PM
Setup correctly that speed will be easy. Ask around about setup and weight placement. You are in for a rush! You will feel like your flying. Be carefull

tnelsmn
05-29-2020, 04:39 PM
Express Composites is based in Minneapolis. Very knowledgeable people there. Carries many core varieties. This is where I've bought all my supplies, easy for me as its a 20min drive. 15 yards of 1708 and 5gal of resin would be a good starting point. Probably want 5 yards or more of 1.5oz CSM also.

Jmr1974
05-29-2020, 05:00 PM
Thanks Tnelsmn, I ended up ordering A bunch of stuff from Jamestown distributors about 2hrs ago. 35yrds of 1708, 7 gallons of resin some cell core and coosa board, I didn’t get any csm... where exactly is the csm used? I see guys mention it all the time in their builds but for what and where?

99fxst99
05-29-2020, 06:41 PM
Yep, that’s a comp hull. I had a 1976 ventura II comp hull. I ran about 80 with a 150 in-line short shaft and upgraded to a 2 L 175 and moved up to about 87. Both with stock lower units. Boat was set up for ski racing. I glassed a plywood floor between the seat box and the bow compartment to make it more comfortable to drive.

tnelsmn
05-29-2020, 09:37 PM
Thanks Tnelsmn, I ended up ordering A bunch of stuff from Jamestown distributors about 2hrs ago. 35yrds of 1708, 7 gallons of resin some cell core and coosa board, I didn’t get any csm... where exactly is the csm used? I see guys mention it all the time in their builds but for what and where?

Chop Strand Mat, it conforms a bit easier than 1708 and has better adhesion, but doesn't have the strength characteristics. I used CSM for bonding the transom boards together, transom to hull, core to hull, and for the final layer over everything to cover any seams of 1708. Also for filling repairs and such.

I'm no expert, I don't do this for a living or anything. Only just completed my first rebuild. I've just spend countless hours researching and reading before and during my build.

Also, very cool factory comp hull!

1954bmw
05-30-2020, 07:21 AM
How did you know that this was a competition hull just from pictures?? Nice catch.

Hydrovair
05-30-2020, 11:20 AM
Looking at the interior pictures, that is how Hydrostream did their comp hulls from the factory, by leaving the taller stringers exposed like that with no flat floor.. And that is a set of their race seats. These hull were raced in the FS class with great success, FS stands for family ski, in which you raced with 2 people in the boat, and the need for 2 seats..

Jmr1974
06-13-2020, 06:36 PM
Found out Friday that my materials finally shipped so I have not been able to do anything on the boat, maybe I’ll be able to get after it next weekend. Fingers crossed! So I’ve had a lot of time thinking about the motor for it. Is there any reason to not consider a 140hp V4? I think it would be kinda cool. I really want this boat to hit 80mph without a struggle, is 80 possible with a 140? I know it shouldn’t be a problem with a 200hp but how many more mph does 60hp get? I love the way mercs look but there’s something I really like about the big blocky look of an OMC especially the older V6 OMC’s. I know the 140 looper weighs around 365lbs, probably not much less than a V6 Merc, not sure the weight of a OMC V6 but would like to find out in case I go that route. I know I can get a 140 crossflow that’s in good shape for cheep but they are crankshaft rated with smaller gear case vs the 140 looper is propshaft rated and I think came with the V6 gear case. The crossflow is much lighter tho. I read some older threads from a member here named Laker that knows these 140’s inside and out, hopefully he sees this and chimes in.

LakeFever
06-13-2020, 08:04 PM
I loved my cross flow v4 and screamed the hell out of that thing. Premix motor and never had a blip of trouble. Hp was rated at 5200rpm but it spun to 6200 effortlessly. They sound great too

Jmr1974
06-13-2020, 08:22 PM
I loved my cross flow v4 and screamed the hell out of that thing. Premix motor and never had a blip of trouble. Hp was rated at 5200rpm but it spun to 6200 effortlessly. They sound great too
I’m still interested in the crossflow I found and for the price it might be a fun motor to mess with, it’s looks very clean from the pictures I seen. Might have to physically go take a peak at it on Monday. Decisions decisions....

Jmr1974
06-18-2020, 03:41 PM
Well fellas I guess there’s no turning back now, my stuff finally showed up! 467965467966467967I should weigh this pallet before I unpack it, that way I can kinda keep tabs on how much weight I’m adding to the boat.

Jmr1974
06-19-2020, 06:43 PM
Alright, I got my transom boards cut ( 2 layers of 3/4” Cosa board) and a layer of csm for in between. Also gonna put a layer Of csm over the inside of the transom to thicken up the skin before I put my new transom in. I’ve got a couple of ?’s tho, what side of the csm goes against the existing boat shell, the shiny side or the strandy side, same question goes for the 1708 when I get to that. When I laminate the transom boards together should I drill a bunch of small holes in it first to let the air escape? I’ve seen builds on here where it’s done with holes drilled and without...I’m gonna get some pics later, right now I’m sweating my bag off. Also what works best for applying the resin on? I would assume just get a bunch of cheep throw away paint brushes...

Jmr1974
06-19-2020, 07:08 PM
468028 All the materials I had on the pallet weighed 250lbs, so whatever the plastic jugs and cardboard weigh could be deducted from that. I’m not gonna get that crazy tho. Anybody got a guess what the bare bones hull weight is?

tnelsmn
06-19-2020, 09:44 PM
CSM looks the same on both sides. 1708 will have the shiny side and the "dull" chop strand side. CSM doesn't matter what way it goes. 1708 think of the chop side as having the better adhesion. When I did my transom I put the chop side to the hull, then scuffed the shiny side after it cured with 36g on a DA, then used CSM to to bond the transom boards to the hull.

Yes drill holes to let air and excess resin escape. I did a 1/8" hole about every inch.

I've been using .99 paint brushes for applying resin. You'll want a finned roller for working out air bubbles in CSM.

Jmr1974
06-19-2020, 10:08 PM
CSM looks the same on both sides. 1708 will have the shiny side and the "dull" chop strand side. CSM doesn't matter what way it goes. 1708 think of the chop side as having the better adhesion. When I did my transom I put the chop side to the hull, then scuffed the shiny side after it cured with 36g on a DA, then used CSM to to bond the transom boards to the hull.

Yes drill holes to let air and excess resin escape. I did a 1/8" hole about every inch.

I've been using .99 paint brushes for applying resin. You'll want a finned roller for working out air bubbles in CSM.
I’m gonna drill the holes like you did, just got back from buying a pile of cheep brushes, wish I would’ve thought of the roller while I was there. What’s a finned roller look like anyway? Do you have a pic of it? I’ll have to run and get one in the morning. Thanks.

Jmr1974
06-20-2020, 08:03 AM
468031Got the transom laminated this morning, hopefully I can get the damn weights off after this sets up... if you look closely you can see the resin oozing out of all the holes.

tnelsmn
06-21-2020, 08:14 AM
Looks good! Here are the finned rollers I'm talking about. Can also be found on Amazon and such.
https://www.expresscomposites.com/laminating-rollers

Jmr1974
06-24-2020, 06:27 PM
468272468273 Just got done installing my transom, just needs to cure now. I used a layer of 1708 against the transom skin first then put the laminated coosa boards against it. I was debating to just do the 1708 skin tonight, let it cure, then tomorrow rough it up and then put in the coosa but decided to go for broke and do it all in one shot. Saves me the roughing up step, hope it works....

Jmr1974
06-27-2020, 08:25 PM
Made a little progress today, got some 1708 laid up on the hull under the deck and patched some thin spots on the hull. Pulled my clamps from the transom and filled the voids between it and the hull with thickened epoxy. Some roughing up tomorrow then continue laying 1708.468457468458468459468460

Jmr1974
06-28-2020, 02:53 PM
Got some more 1708 down today. Working my way back to the transom. Next I’ll work on the inside of the transom, over lapping it onto the hull, then my last strip of the 1708 can go in locking it all together. Hoping next weekend is core time! If I had a solid weekend to work on this boat without any interruptions I’d be able to make some serious hay, Kids baseball and all that other good stuff trumps it tho.468484468485

Jmr1974
06-28-2020, 05:28 PM
I need to figure out what I’m going buy for a permanent fuel tank so I can space my knees correctly... looks like I’m gonna have to settle for a 19 gallon in order to fit it under my splashwell. The one I was looking at is 26”x16”x14.25, in will stick out further than I want but I can build a back seat to hide it. The tank I’m describing is a plastic Moeller tank. I think I can get an aluminum tank with the same configuration, what’s better aluminum or plastic? I think aluminum is about $100 more but don’t care about the price if it’s better.

Jmr1974
07-01-2020, 07:27 PM
468703468704Got the transom and the last section of Hull glassed in tonight. How do you guys avoid air pockets. Im using a finned roller and working them out as much as I can before the resin kicks off but can’t seem to get all of them.... Maybe it is what it is since I’m not a professional shop with all the right tools and tricks...

rjdubiel
07-02-2020, 08:44 AM
a plastic bondo spreader helps, I have just used my hands as well, but you may need a bubble buster roller. You really need to work this thicker glass. Smaller sections of glass are easier to work with just over lap them and you will end up with 2 layers of it in one application. I still have issues with it as well but I am a novice as well.

rjdubiel
07-02-2020, 08:46 AM
I need to figure out what I’m going buy for a permanent fuel tank so I can space my knees correctly... looks like I’m gonna have to settle for a 19 gallon in order to fit it under my splashwell. The one I was looking at is 26”x16”x14.25, in will stick out further than I want but I can build a back seat to hide it. The tank I’m describing is a plastic Moeller tank. I think I can get an aluminum tank with the same configuration, what’s better aluminum or plastic? I think aluminum is about $100 more but don’t care about the price if it’s better.

I went with the triangle plastic moeller tank, i think this one is 17 or 19 gallons, cant remember now.
468718
468719

Jmr1974
07-02-2020, 09:01 AM
I went with the triangle plastic moeller tank, i think this one is 17 or 19 gallons, cant remember now.
468718
468719thanks, where did you get the rigging sleeves for the top of your splashwell? I just ordered a RDS 18 gallon aluminum tank, it’s about 13.5”tall so I shouldn’t have to modify the front of my splashwell.

tnelsmn
07-02-2020, 09:02 AM
You're making quick work of this build, good job! I used a small cheap shower squeegee to help layout 1708.

Jmr1974
07-02-2020, 09:07 AM
You're making quick work of this build, good job! I used a small cheap shower squeegee to help layout 1708. thanks, it’s going pretty good. I’ve been referencing your build a lot and hoping it turns out as nice. Hoping to get the core in with this extended weekend.

rjdubiel
07-02-2020, 09:30 AM
thanks, where did you get the rigging sleeves for the top of your splashwell? I just ordered a RDS 18 gallon aluminum tank, it’s about 13.5”tall so I shouldn’t have to modify the front of my splashwell.

Eddie Marine, I still have to finish and put on the hose over all my wires. I already reroute the steering hoses so they do not go through these anymore
https://www.eddiemarine.com/shop/outboard-products/steering-hose-kit-1/outboard-hose-kit

Jmr1974
07-03-2020, 01:55 PM
Getting down to the core of things! 468793468796468797468798

Jmr1974
07-03-2020, 01:59 PM
Getting down to the core of things! 468793468796468797468798 I don’t know what’s up with the sideways pics but if someone knows how to get rid of them go for it.

Jmr1974
07-04-2020, 09:53 AM
Eddie Marine, I still have to finish and put on the hose over all my wires. I already reroute the steering hoses so they do not go through these anymore
https://www.eddiemarine.com/shop/outboard-products/steering-hose-kit-1/outboard-hose-kitwhat is that carbon looking cover on your splashwell? How does it stick on? I like the idea of doing that, the top of the splashwell will get a lot of traffic when climbing in and out of the boat while out swimming. Also what brand is your hydraulic steering system? I was gonna go with just dual cable but am starting to lean towards hydraulic.

Jmr1974
07-04-2020, 03:19 PM
I’m literally 8sqft short on core material from finishing the core up under the deck, oh well I ordered it and it’s in route. I’m calling it a victory for today. Time for some food, beers and fireworks!468828468828468829

Jmr1974
07-06-2020, 07:44 PM
The rest of my core showed up today so I was able to finish it, got some 1708 laid over some of it also. Now I’m almost out of resin. Got about a half gallon left and a gallon of hardener. Ordered 3 more gallons of resin and 1.5 gallons of hardener, we’ll see how far that gets me. Hope to be onto stringers and knees by the weekend.468951468952

Jmr1974
07-11-2020, 02:18 PM
The core is in a complete sandwich now, happy to be done with that! Also put another layer of 1708 on the transom (2 layers now) I have my knees fitted but not glassed in yet. I’m also going to be using my knees as a seat base, you can see the mock-up in the pic. Next will be cutting and fitting the stringers, ran this morning and picked up a few sheets of 1/2” marine ply for stringers and floor.469248469249469250469251

Merc 2.5
07-12-2020, 06:35 AM
The core is in a complete sandwich now, happy to be done with that! Also put another layer of 1708 on the transom (2 layers now) I have my knees fitted but not glassed in yet. I’m also going to be using my knees as a seat base, you can see the mock-up in the pic. Next will be cutting and fitting the stringers, ran this morning and picked up a few sheets of 1/2” marine ply for stringers and floor.469248469249469250469251

That's a great idea bout knees and rear seat , I think I'll try use that also , seems like good idea

Jmr1974
07-12-2020, 08:02 PM
Calling it a day! Got the knees and a good part of the stringers in today, still have to put fingers off the main stringers and then glass everything in. Also fitted the floor for down the road install.469305469306469307

tnelsmn
07-12-2020, 08:28 PM
You're making killer fast progress on this thing! And doing great looking work as well!

Jmr1974
07-12-2020, 09:03 PM
You're making killer fast progress on this thing! And doing great looking work as well!
Thanks. To me it seems like it’s going kinda slow but I have nothing to gauge it against, I’ve never restored a boat. I’m a carpenter and in my world things go fast. My goal for now is to get this thing painted before winter hits. My overall goal is to have it on the water next summer. We’ll see what happens...

tnelsmn
07-12-2020, 09:16 PM
Thanks. To me it seems like it’s going kinda slow but I have nothing to gauge it against, I’ve never restored a boat. I’m a carpenter and in my world things go fast. My goal for now is to get this thing painted before winter hits. My overall goal is to have it on the water next summer. We’ll see what happens...
I'm almost two years deep in my build. You are progressing much faster than I did! In the water next summer should be no issue from what I'm seeing.

LakeFever
07-15-2020, 05:38 AM
Looking great so far! What type of resin are you using?

Jmr1974
07-15-2020, 06:17 AM
Looking great so far! What type of resin are you using?
It’s called total boat high performance 2:1 epoxy resin along with 2:1 slow hardener

Jmr1974
07-20-2020, 05:01 AM
Well here’s where I’m at, didn’t get a whole lot done this past weekend. Got the stringers and knees partially glassed in. Probably won’t get a whole lot more done over the next 2 weeks, gonna be real busy at work this week, then next week my 2 boys and I are off to the mighty Mississippi for a week long fishing/camping trip.469799469800

Jmr1974
08-08-2020, 01:36 PM
Well I’m finally getting back to working on the boat. Not really any further along than my last pic above but did some sanding this morning to continue glassing in my stringers and knees. I’m using 1708 for this and I’m wondering how many layers of the 1708 is sufficient to glass them in? This is gonna take some serious time with the little support fingers I have coming off the main stringers. Depending on the #of layers of 1708 I need to add I will have lots of sanding ahead of me before I could add the next layer. I’ve read on other forums guys use 3 to 4 layers but the boats are over 24’ long and used on rough seas at all times. All I know is the glass on the original exposed stringers was very very thin. So how many layers should I run with?

LakeFever
08-08-2020, 02:35 PM
Don’t quote me on this as I have yet to do it but I asked this too and was told you could lay multiple layers up at once to save on sanding. Theres also peel ply which does not require sanding iirc between layers.

also if you wouldn’t mind would you post up a pic of the bottom of your hull I’d like to compare it to a vandal I just bought.

keep after it your doing great

Merc 2.5
08-08-2020, 03:25 PM
I tried multiple layers at once , guess u need be kinda quick at glassing, even when I mixed my resin for working time , I still could only get 1 layer at a time , especially around the stringers from what I can tell , practice, practice, practice, until then its sanding and prep for next layer. I did 3 sizes of tabbing and 3 layers 1708 over everything. Overkill always better than to thin etc

Jmr1974
08-08-2020, 03:37 PM
I tried multiple layers at once , guess u need be kinda quick at glassing, even when I mixed my resin for working time , I still could only get 1 layer at a time , especially around the stringers from what I can tell , practice, practice, practice, until then its sanding and prep for next layer. I did 3 sizes of tabbing and 3 layers 1708 over everything. Overkill always better than to thin etc
Thanks, yeah I donít think thereís anyway around it unless you have a helping hand mixing for you and getting what you need. This is gonna take some time, I better get back after it!

Jmr1974
08-08-2020, 03:47 PM
Donít quote me on this as I have yet to do it but I asked this too and was told you could lay multiple layers up at once to save on sanding. Theres also peel ply which does not require sanding iirc between layers.

also if you wouldnít mind would you post up a pic of the bottom of your hull Iíd like to compare it to a vandal I just bought.

keep after it your doing great
Thanks, gonna be tough to get a good pic with the cradle I built under it in the way. Let me know what angle your looking for. If you go back to the beginning of this thread I have a few pics of the boat out in the open, side profile etc. The Ventura hull looks just like the Action boats of the same era, at least to me it does. Somebody copied somebody. Mustíve been a good design. I have a 1987 Valero V-pad and the Ventura hull is quite a bit different except for the pad area and the part under the transom thatís curved way in by the drain plug.

specboatops
08-08-2020, 04:50 PM
What lake are you on in Southern Wis ?

Jmr1974
08-08-2020, 08:33 PM
What lake are you on in Southern Wis ? I’m not on a lake anymore. I grew up on one just outside of Oconomowoc WI.

LakeFever
08-08-2020, 08:40 PM
It looks very similar to my Vandal, your gonna love driving that thing.

Jmr1974
08-16-2020, 08:06 PM
471730Well Iíve been picking away at glassing in the stringers, been real busy with work. Probably gonna be like this for a while, only being able to work on the boat an hour here and an hour there. I knew this was going to happen sooner or later, thatís way I came out of the gate running in the beginning. All I can say is each piece of glass I lay is one closer to the end. What Iím doing is laying 3 pieces of 1708 on each side of the stringers with each piece extending longer on to the hull then the piece before it. When I finish all 3 layers on each side of the stringers Iím going to come back and cap of the top of the stringers with 1 layer of 1708. I no some guys go up and over the stringers with each layer, for a novice like me thatís to much to deal with so I decided to focus on one side at a time. Iím able to get all 3 layers done on one side this way which means no sanding between layers!

Jmr1974
09-08-2020, 06:19 PM
I did some more glass work on the boat this past Friday night and Saturday. I woke up Sunday morning with extremely swollen eyelids, I looked like Rocky Balboa. Apparently I have become sensitive to epoxy resin according to the info I’m finding online. Today (Monday) my eyelids are still puffy but improving. I’m going to let this completely clear up before doing anymore work on the boat. I ordered a 3m 6800 full face mask with the pink vapor cartridges. I always wear gloves, face mask, tyvek suit and goggles when sanding. When I lay new glass I only wear gloves and I think the vapor from the epoxy resin is what is irritating my eyes. I hope this full 3m face mask will allow me to continue working on the boat. I read some people’s sensitivity gets so bad that they can’t ever touch the stuff again. Anybody ever experience a reaction like this? Moving forward I’ll be using the new mask and run a fan when laying new glass/epoxy and hope for the best. I figured I run into things that would slow my progress down here and there but never expected this.

Merc 2.5
09-08-2020, 06:36 PM
I did some more glass work on the boat this past Friday night and Saturday. I woke up Sunday morning with extremely swollen eyelids, I looked like Rocky Balboa. Apparently I have become sensitive to epoxy resin according to the info I’m finding online. Today (Monday) my eyelids are still puffy but improving. I’m going to let this completely clear up before doing anymore work on the boat. I ordered a 3m 6800 full face mask with the pink vapor cartridges. I always wear gloves, face mask, tyvek suit and goggles when sanding. When I lay new glass I only wear gloves and I think the vapor from the epoxy resin is what is irritating my eyes. I hope this full 3m face mask will allow me to continue working on the boat. I read some people’s sensitivity gets so bad that they can’t ever touch the stuff again. Anybody ever experience a reaction like this? Moving forward I’ll be using the new mask and run a fan when laying new glass/epoxy and hope for the best. I figured I run into things that would slow my progress down here and there but never expected this.

Well that sucks man. My wife was doin those custom epoxy tumblers and became allergic after month or so of doin it and had to stop, she ended up with a epi pen thing just incase. Crazy how that works and dosent affect you 1st time using it. Use good gloves and mask. Don't want throat swell up

Jmr1974
09-08-2020, 09:13 PM
Well that sucks man. My wife was doin those custom epoxy tumblers and became allergic after month or so of doin it and had to stop, she ended up with a epi pen thing just incase. Crazy how that works and dosent affect you 1st time using it. Use good gloves and mask. Don't want throat swell up
Yeah it sucks, I’m hoping that a full face mask saves my but.

LakeFever
09-09-2020, 06:21 AM
If you rub your eyes with glass dust or get airborne sanding dust from glass in there you get eye irritation. Can’t have too good of a respirator that will probably solve it. I use a versaflo now, amazing technology