How to remove the steering swivel arm from Mercury engine bracket?

[Aaronhl]

I think I missed one up already trying to pound it out. Any ideas on how to get the steering swivel arm out of the bracket on a Merc? I know how to remove the bottom yoke but cannot pull the steering arm up.

[mach351]

Does it turn freely? Is it salty?

[Aaronhl]

I have one that was run in saltwater which turns slightly by hand and another freshwater that turns with a hammer tap

[mach351]

As long as the foot and hog ring are off the bottom it will come out. If it’s stubborn it’s just because the bushings are dry and locked up. Try prying between the saddle and the swivel pin while tapping on the swivel. You can try some heat also and pumping some new grease into the zerks

[Aaronhl]

I am only able to get it out a little bit, look at at the picture is this normal? Seems like the bushing is getting eaten up. Does it matter what position the swivel is in when taking it apart?

461137

[mach351]

If there are any burrs on the splines, yeah they’ll hang up and mess the bushing up. It’s a pretty tough fiber bushing, but if it gets wrecked then you’ll have to get new ones. Shouldn’t matter the position of the swivel. I’d push it back down and make sure there are no burrs on those splines.

[Aaronhl]

Seems like the bushing are replaceable? I don’t want to damage the inside so I can’t put new ones in.

[mach351]

Yes they are replaceable. They are available from mercury. Fiber bushing - I’ve always had to cut them out to replace them.

[rock]

By the looks of that wear do you spose maybe there is a bend involved?

Rock

[Aaronhl]

I think the very end of it got deformed as I was hitting it with a hammer and then I put a socket in there to continue hitting it downward, didnt think to hit the other end of the swivel.

I am making some progress with another one, cleaned the splines really well and didn't deform the end but now that one is stuck.

I put blaster and grease every where I could, might try heating it next.

[InjectorService]

Can you pull the whole thing and pop it in a press?

[outboards4life]

Are you just looking for a steering arm? if so I have a clean one you can have, just pay the shipping.

[Aaronhl]

OK guys good news I was able to get one of the two steering arms out so far.
First I put the bracket up-side-down on some cinder blocks so I could hammer down on the top of the steering arm enough to put a car scissor jack between the arm and the bracket.
The scissor jack was useful to pull most of the arm out easily, but them it got stuck again when the splines were coming out of the top bushing.
I put a long steel pipe into the swivel bracket and with the bracket upright I would slide it down on the steel pipe to push up on the steering arm to pop it out easily.
Even though the previous own of this swivel bracket drilled additional grease fittings in the top bushing (they broke off causing holes), it was the rusty bottom splines that has the most friction.
I tried to wire brush the splines as good but the rust was still a hair large than the main arm surface.

[Aaronhl]

I am considering welding the bottom steering yoke onto the steering arm to stop the movement. What do you guys think?

Might not be able to remove the steering arm again and will have to paint it well

[Dave Strong]

This is steering and a safety issue, do not weld it. Replace the bushings and find a good used steering arm and yoke.

Dave

[Aaronhl]

Well I was thinking of just putting a weld bead around the bottom of the yoke like where the retaining ring goes? How would that be unsafe?

The top of the steering arm is welding into the top of the vertical shaft

[rgsauger]

So did you get it fixed?

[Aaronhl]

Well I got the steering arm out of the old bracket and I am preparing a new to me bracket to put back in....Any thoughts on welding the steering yoke on?

[Dave Strong]

Well I got the steering arm out of the old bracket and I am preparing a new to me bracket to put back in....Any thoughts on welding the steering yoke on?

You have already been told.

Dave

[Aaronhl]

You have already been told.

Dave

Could you elaborate on why not to weld it?

[rgsauger]

Dave, it's worth an honest answer. The top of the tube is welded into the arm/bracket. If done right, why couldn't the bottom of the tube be welded to the lower bracket? It wouldn't be serviceable but if it takes 25 years to wear out, then who gives a chit?

Welded by someone who knows what they're doing...not by somebody like me!!!

[Dave Strong]

Dave, it's worth an honest answer. The top of the tube is welded into the arm/bracket. If done right, why couldn't the bottom of the tube be welded to the lower bracket? It wouldn't be serviceable but if it takes 25 years to wear out, then who gives a chit?

Welded by someone who knows what they're doing...not by somebody like me!!!

We I gave you my opinion you don't seem to like it so do as you wish.

Dave

[rgsauger]

I nether liked your comments nor disliked them, Dave. I was asking from a technical standpoint. The top arm is welded from Merc. What's the technical difference? Is the lower different material than the arm?

[Dave Strong]

I nether liked your comments nor disliked them, Dave. I was asking from a technical standpoint. The top arm is welded from Merc. What's the technical difference? Is the lower different material than the arm?

Well I only know one way to do things, the correct way. The fact that I do this for a living and that type of repair would just set me up for liability if it failed is why I say what I say. Mercury designed it that way for a reason and has worked well for 45yrs see no need to reinvent the wheel. Not quite sure why you are so against a snap ring? If the splines or clip area are worn on the existing tiller there are hundreds of good used ones, replace it and its done right.

Dave

[tux974]

Well I only know one way to do things, the correct way. The fact that I do this for a living and that type of repair would just set me up for liability if it failed is why I say what I say.Mercury designed it that way for a reason and has worked well for 45yrs see no need to reinvent the wheel. Not quite sure why you are so against a snap ring? If the splines or clip area are worn on the existing tiller there are hundreds of good used ones, replace it and its done right.

Dave

:iagree: X2 with all above!

[rgsauger]

Thanks Dave. That was a fair answer. Totally understand the liability, too. I'm not against snap rings and I'm not the OP. I was just wondering the logic. Tearing mine down today. Wish me luck.

[Aaronhl]

Interesting thanks for the input...I try to do things with safety in mind and I'm not saying I am against the snap ring. Seems like welding it would help with the movement in it now or in the future as it wears. I'm actually surprised to see you guys are so against welding the yoke on....

[nitro_rat]

If there is any slack in the splines (hint...there is!) the weld will crack and break. The tiller at the top is a press fit on the shaft. The weld is a secondary connection at a joint that has no movement due to the nature of its construction. It's not apples to apples, it's apples to oranges. Just because one end is welded doesn't mean it will work on the other end...

[Aaronhl]

If there is any slack in the splines (hint...there is!) the weld will crack and break. The tiller at the top is a press fit on the shaft. The weld is a secondary connection at a joint that has no movement due to the nature of its construction. It's not apples to apples, it's apples to oranges. Just because one end is welded doesn't mean it will work on the other end...

Ah ok that makes sense and since this is a technical forum I like the technical answer I totally get it now

[Glastron1987]

This may not be a popular answer, but I connected my arm and bottom yoke with two stainless steel bolts. Had to shape the heads to fit though inside the arm. Actually, I did not like the way Mercury designed that connection. I believe the way I did it is safe.

[rgsauger]

This may not be a popular answer, but I connected my arm and bottom yoke with two stainless steel bolts. Had to shape the heads to fit though inside the arm. Actually, I did not like the way Mercury designed that connection. I believe the way I did it is safe.

Pics?

[TEXAS20225]

those components are common in just about all marine repair business and not too expensive im sure one could be found im not sure how many i have laying around 4 or 5 maybe more

[Glastron1987]

Pics?


461710

[Aaronhl]

Seems like the parts diagram I am looking at for the swivel bracket has the parts listed in wrong

Can some one people give me the correct order of parts numbers from the top of the swivel to the bottom yoke

Mercury part# 87735 is a seal that is placed on top if you look at the parts diagram but it doesn't fit at the top, it does fit on the bottom of the swivel

I've looked at a few different year parts diagram from 80s 90s and 2000s they all use the same swivel bracket but the seals/orings/ and spacers are in different configurations.

[Aaronhl]

462134462135

hopefully you guys can see the numbers
part #2 is draw on the top but it actually fits in the bottom, its description is "lower" so what would replace it on top??

[rgsauger]

Is your yoke still stuck on the shaft?

[Aaronhl]

No I got it all apart, yokes off and the steering arm is out of the swivel bracket, trying to put it all back together now. I cant exactly tell what seals/spacers go back on the right way because the few swivels I have look like they have different parts and most of the parts deteriorated

[Dave Strong]

No I got it all apart, yokes off and the steering arm is out of the swivel bracket, trying to put it all back together now. I cant exactly tell what seals/spacers go back on the right way because the few swivels I have look like they have different parts and most of the parts deteriorated

Pictures of the parts you have.

Dave

[Aaronhl]

Pictures of the parts you have.

Dave

462136462137This is the bottome

[rgsauger]

It's a lot less boogered up than I expected. Do you have a factory service manual?

[tux974]

462136462137This is the bottome

Like to see a picture of splines but by the looks of what you have showing I would anticipate they are OK.
Your bottom seal which is one of the most important thing looks to be in very good condition.
Below the seal you have a plastic split bushing which looks OK but very hard to tell exact condition from that picture. Reason I bring that up is the section of the pin in that area looks a bit scratched up so I suggest to check it while you have things apart.
It is #3 in your exploded view in your #35 post. If you need to change it also get a new seal and maybe a snap ring while at it.
The way you have it now is the way it should go back together, washer above yoke.
Most OS setup come with a similar washer with a yellow looking paper with holes that it actually works like a bearing to slide easier and it will hold a bit a grease when some gets by the seal, it's called a bearing not a washer in the parts manual. Some also have a wavy lower washer.

[Glastron1987]

Can you get a serial# and casting number from your bracket?

I see two possible diagrams, there may be more, but depending on the casting number it looks like the seal part #87735 you mention is either above or below:

https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/images/COMMON/19577.GIF

https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/images/COMMON/8962.GIF

[Aaronhl]

Like to see a picture of splines but by the looks of what you have showing I would anticipate they are OK.
Your bottom seal which is one of the most important thing looks to be in very good condition.
Below the seal you have a plastic split bushing which looks OK but very hard to tell exact condition from that picture. Reason I bring that up is the section of the pin in that area looks a bit scratched up so I suggest to check it while you have things apart.
It is #3 in your exploded view in your #35 post. If you need to change it also get a new seal and maybe a snap ring while at it.
The way you have it now is the way it should go back together, washer above yoke.
Most OS setup come with a similar washer with a yellow looking paper with holes that it actually works like a bearing to slide easier and it will hold a bit a grease when some gets by the seal, it's called a bearing not a washer in the parts manual. Some also have a wavy lower washer.

perfect the plastic split ring and seal are brand new I just installed them. I will also use the wavy washer I have in the picture to go above the yoke. So seems like the bottom of the swivel is correct. Now what about the top, should there be an o-ring, plastic spacer and metal washer?

462225462226462227Going to repaint the bare areas

[Dave Strong]

On top side o-ring, spacer, large flat washer. Bottom wave washer, yoke, then snap ring.

Dave

[Aaronhl]

Yes looks like #5 and #4 and swapped with #2. I don't have a serial number on the one I am working on. Going to put #2 on the bottom and #4 and #5 on top since I was already able to fit #2 on the bottom ok...I will have to order parts #4 and #5


Can you get a serial# and casting number from your bracket?

I see two possible diagrams, there may be more, but depending on the casting number it looks like the seal part #87735 you mention is either above or below:

https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/images/COMMON/19577.GIF

https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/images/COMMON/8962.GIF

[rgsauger]

Did you get and install the bushings yet? Looks like you're making progress

[Glastron1987]

Yes looks like #5 and #4 and swapped with #2. I don't have a serial number on the one I am working on. Going to put #2 on the bottom and #4 and #5 on top since I was already able to fit #2 on the bottom ok...I will have to order parts #4 and #5

Cool. Sounds like that will do it.

[Aaronhl]

Did you get and install the bushings yet? Looks like you're making progress

I got one of the plastic split bushings in, pretty easy to put in since it just slides right in. I figured out I had to remove the old "bearing" first because ti was worn. Tux mentioned before some of the brackets had a different bearing. Had to hammer the old one out with a screw driver and then slide the new split bushing in. Just waiting for some parts and I am going to put the steering arm into the bracket.

[Aaronhl]

Got a few more year of Merc experience and working on another project, I am still wondering why they changed to have the oil seal on the top in the newer models and the oil seal on the bottom of the swivel bracket in the older years? I am also wondering if I could put an oil seal and flat washer at the top and bottom of the swivel (not use the o-ring and plastic spacer)??

[Dave Strong]

Got a few more year of Merc experience and working on another project, I am still wondering why they changed to have the oil seal on the top in the newer models and the oil seal on the bottom of the swivel bracket in the older years? I am also wondering if I could put an oil seal and flat washer at the top and bottom of the swivel (not use the o-ring and plastic spacer)??

Seal on top only lets water drain out.

Dave

[Aaronhl]

Seal on top only lets water drain out.

Dave

Thanks for posting - fair enough - I am going to use the oem parts only following the mid 90s swivel diagram where to put them. I dont like that plastic spacer it can wear

[Dave Strong]

Thanks for posting - fair enough - I am going to use the oem parts only following the mid 90s swivel diagram where to put them. I dont like that plastic spacer it can wear

Anything harder then the aluminum wears.

Dave

[Aaronhl]

Not exactly what you mean but how about a thicker o ring and a metal washer at the bottom instead of the plastic spacer?