Trying to find SAMPLE of TACO RUBRAIL

[TraceF3]

V11-0809BBK

I contacted Taco. They want $30 :eek:

I need a foot or so.

Thanks

[dmillar]

Hi I have a 96 Liberator 21 that I replaced the rubrail insert on last winter. I will be more than happy to send you a sample of the "TACO" insert I used and the part number. Just let me know your address and I'll mail it out. Either text, call or PM me. 803-372-9172. DOUG.

[dmillar]

Oops I didn't notice you have a specific part number you want the sample of. I have "TACO" P/N V12-0342bka50-1

[Speed Jr.]

I just put on new rubrail I got from Liberator and I have a few extra feet of it. Is this the rubrail your referring to?

457591

[TraceF3]

Thanks guys- What y'all have is what I'm removing. I'm considering an all rubber rail. I don't have the skill to bend that front section.

[Speed Jr.]

Oh I see. I just did it last week. It is a pain, but it bends pretty easily. I used screws near the bends to pull it tight, then rivets for the rest. Took some time but worth it. 457593457594

[hydroo]

Wow, great looking installation! Two tone paint is sharp looking.

[sicknick12]

Love that! Just saying you might be a Raiders fan if you like football at all. lol.

[TraceF3]

VERY nice! I can't seem to wrap my brain around making the 2 inside bends and the metal ending up the right length.

[KIRCHNER]

i ha ve years of experience in metal work and see your delema, going from inside corner to inside corner. we had to trim metal letters and found the only way for a perfect fit, never work into an inside corner. start with a clean cut end, that will be a seam. bend your 90 so that cut end will end close to center on front deck, go foward around nose and head rearward. if u have to seam again avoid a curved area. back to the nose. again bend your other 90 so it goes past center by 1 or 2 inches. secure your inside corners, now u can cut back to match up butt joint. seam will be barely visible. just dont cut too short. dont forget orientation, 1 will be a left,1 will be a right. oh, dont seam the insert to match your new seams, if u have the insert type

[Speed Jr.]

I did the entire front in one single 20' section. I just took my time. One seam on each side of boat for the rail, no seams for the insert, one continuous run. 457630457631

[KIRCHNER]

I did the entire front in one single 20' section. I just took my time. One seam on each side of boat for the rail, no seams for the insert, one continuous run. 457630457631 Nice job !

[TraceF3]

Kirchner- your way makes it doable for me but what's on the boat now was installed like Larry did. Either way you could do the whole boat with 3 pieces 20' long.

Second problem with the 20' sticks is shipping. Where did you guys get them?

[Speed Jr.]

I had mine shipped with the new interior from Liberator. I think it would have been around $200 from Texas to northern Illinois.

[TraceF3]

I got a freight quote from Dave, $380 to FL. So over $800 total. He did mention the freight went way up recently.

[TraceF3]

That wasn't including the insert

[Speed Jr.]

Wow that's crazy. I paid $329 to ship the rub rail and the full interior. Things aren't getting any cheaper....If only Amazon Prime had it! Lol

[KIRCHNER]

I GOT some for my donzi, long long time ago, had come by truck, big truck in cardboard tubes. they came from donzi. They want 300 to ship an alien cowl!

[kellytheaker]

If it' in Texas or close - you could call Randy - WILDMAN- I suspect He may be able to help - I believe most of this moulding is coming out of California area. 20 foot mouldings have to be cartage . The cowling at 300 sounds like it could use some more looking into - USPS is good I have found and I'm in Canada . Guys I have always found US shipping is a bargain . Crossing a border and protections in place such as tax and tariffs are another but consider your shipping inside the U.S a bargain . Shipping 3 20 ft pieces yes is considered difficult and is fragile due to length . It' difficult just walking it around the plant I'm sure - so imagine shipping and handling it .