79 checkmate predictor

[Merc 2.5]

I had started a thread in fiberglass but wanted to move it to restore thread , so I'm gonna start fresh from here .
I got the boat for free and here she is when brought it home450517

Then I got it cleaned out and started to remove the cap to get to transom , then it got sit off to the side the rest of the summer lol450518

So yest I thought it was a good time to get it under carport and finish the demo after I wrestled the deck off by myself with no hoist or nething (pia) then I started digging in floor. And woah!!450519450520

The rest of the demo was very easy tho lol , I used a hand broom,dust pan,pry bar, sawzall to cut fiberglass, which was all that was holding everything together 450521450522

Still gets lots a grinding tho

[Merc 2.5]

The grinding on the transom is goin good so far but I gotta go get me a tyvek suit cause this chit is eating me up haha450523

[mrichartz]

The grinding on the transom is goin good so far but I gotta go get me a tyvek suit cause this chit is eating me up haha450523

Tyvek suit, full hood and cool weather..so you can cover up and not sweat..and won't itch like crazy..lol
Will say would rather cover up and sweat like crazy than to get the glass all over me..
My brother would grind all day get it all over him and wouldn't bother him... Me I just look at it and I start itching... Still loved doing it tho

[Merc 2.5]

I have a cuz that usually helps and he same way short sleeves no gloves ,mask nothin. wont bother him a bit

[Merc 2.5]

So I guess this boat has 1 18ft 1/2in stringer down the middle? Does that sound rite ? This is my 1st rodeo and dont wanna miss nothin. Everything was mud when it cam out so no tracing nething

[Merc 2.5]

450545
Its comin along

[mrichartz]

Oh you had both named the same and deleted other thread...thought I was losing it. ��

[Merc 2.5]

Ya it got confusing. I started other thread to c what I wanted to use. But wanna use this one for the build. I put stuff in other thread that was supposed b n this one lol

[tnelsmn]

Nice and rotten makes teardown easy!

[Merc 2.5]

Hey guys need little help

I'm tryin get supply list ready
Gonna use poly resin.
I need to know what mats I need csm? Oz weight? , and mat 1708? Which do i start with and finish with , 1st big glass job but gud wit my hands. Just need little guidance. xstreamviking. U out there haha

[Merc 2.5]

Also the mix for putty to sit transom and stringer on and fill gaps. cabisol mix?

[Merc 2.5]

Anybody have info I could use ? Maybe a little direction for me. Thanks

[tnelsmn]

I used 1.5oz csm mat for my build. Also lots of 1708 cloth.

The resin putty mix I do is 4:1 or so Cabosil to milled fibers. The first batch of putty I did with just Cabosil cracked once cured, haven't had any crack once I started adding milled fibers.

A tip for the putty, mix the Cabosil and fibers into the resin first. A little thicker than you want to use(think peanut butter, the added catalyst will thin the mixture down just a bit) then add your catalyst last. That way the curing process isn't started as you're trying to get the consistency you want. You'll see what I mean once you mix some up. I've found the easiest way for working with putty is to put in a gallon zip lock bag, cut a corner off, and use it like a pipet bag. Putting the bag in an old coffee can holds it well for dumping putty in.

Remember, I'm no expert, this is just what I've picked up along the way on my build. Most the technical stuff I get is from members here, or the guys at Express Composites where I buy my materials.

I find working will glass kinda fun.

Looking forward to see this come together! Seems like forum activity is up a bit since boating season is winding down for us change of season folks. Lots of build going on right now.

[Merc 2.5]

That's kinda info I'm needing. Thanks for that , its goin pretty smooth so far , once I get all supplies in ,hope to get together kinda quickly ,so i can get started on paint, think I'm gonna copy the bruiser blue on Vikings with the fade to silver i hope. The goal is test ride spring lol , i have bass boats ,aluminum boats , need gud speed boat haha

[Merc 2.5]

So is 1708 pretty much 18oz (cloth) I think

[tnelsmn]

I believe so. It's a woven cloth on a +45, -45 bias, with .75oz csm stitched to one side to help with bonding multiple layers. Someone else will be along to give better info I'm sure.

https://www.expresscomposites.com/dbm-1808-50-double-bias-45-45-w-ltwt-mat

[Gordon02]

Have you already made the purchases? I prefer working with epoxy and 1708 bi-axial fabric for the structural bonds to the hull. The 8 ounce mat is "stitched" to the 17 ounce woven fabric and does not require MEK to dissolve the glue that would be used to hold fibers in normal mat. I use only US Composites 3:1 "slow" laminating epoxy. I've used 20 gallons of this stuff in the last 4 years and just love it.
I use this same epoxy to make "peanut butter" paste as a bedding material when bedding stringers and keel to the hull whenever there are small irregularities and small voids that I want eliminate - a 1/2" bedding bead of peanut butter (wood flour mixed to peanut butter consistency in this pre-mixed 3:1 epoxy) will made a water-proof and very strong bond. Also keep in mind that epoxy bonds are 20~30% stronger than polyester ones.
I prefer to pre-cut my 1708 fabric to size - whether it's tabbing, flooring, or build up. I always wet these out on a flat table covered in plastic one layer at a time. You'll soon learn that gravity is your friend and the 2nd layer will wet faster than the 1st, 3rd faster than the 2nd. Having these wet layers below helps the new layers turn translucent quicker. Once I have the layers that I want to apply "wet", I then wet the surface they are to be applied. I then apply each layer of fabric one at a time or all at once - depending on their size and how many air bubbles I have to remove. Wet on wet and complete translucent fabric is essential. These usually give you about 20 minutes to lay down and roll-out. Caution, the larger "pot" of epoxy you make, the faster it will go off. While slower, heat - just like polyester kicks it quickly. You'll lose 1 or 2 mixes before you're a pro!
Now, if I'm going to make composite boxes, seats, flooring panels out of fiber, I'll use polyester. First I will apply mold release to the 1/4" plywood or FRP pattern that I want to copy. Meanwhile, I cut out the fabric layers I want to laminate. Once the mold release is dry (about 30 minutes), I wet-out the pattern surface (really wet) and start applying layers and rolling them out. Again, the flat table and gravity is your friend - 2nd and 3rd layers go faster since they are applied to already wet fabric. 3, 4, even 5 layers can be laminated if done quickly. Have a laminate roller close by so that you can work-out the bubbles as you go. I try to have a helper on-hand for these laminations to roll and help with laying the fabrics quickly while I keep the resin batches made up. You Do not want to try and make up the resin in one batch - the larger the batch, the faster it goes off.
in the
Once I've epoxied the stringers and keel to the hull, filet/faired all of joints with peanut butter and applied all the tabbing bow to stern, the 1/4" plywood you see below is a pattern I made from cardboard drawings and will be used to make 4 layer 1708/polyester composite flooring for my little Glastron. I'll separate from the ply, trim for a perfect hull fit, scratch the bonding areas with 40 grit, sand all mold release off, then bond to the hull and White Oak stringers/keel with wet 1708/epoxy and a small bead of epoxy peanut butter. Lots of weights and 24 hours later and I'll have a solid, water-tight base.
I've decided on a dry keel, so I'll have a small bilge box in the back that all water will exit. None of my White Oak has been bonded to the hull - I'm fighting a herniated disk and everything is on hold. I've got to sand/smooth my filets then apply tabbing. The ply as shown is simply laying on top of the sub-structure at this point. Gordon

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[DEN]

Hey Merc.
This will save you some cash on the rebuild. Im sure your now familiar with my build.
I brought all my epoxy from here: http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-supplies/shop_responsive.pl?type=topic&topic_name_value=epoxy_resin&cart_id=
(http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-supplies/shop_responsive.pl?type=topic&topic_name_value=epoxy_resin&cart_id=)
This is a lot cheaper than that "other stuff" and its just has good. They also sale wood flour for your peanut butter mix.
Dont buy those mixing pumps,,,theses here do a great job of measuring resin and harder very nicely, and there cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Syringe-Sterile-Catheter-BH-SUPPLIES/dp/B07VD9Z3YB/ref=asc_df_B07VD9Z3YB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=372864680107&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11843657697893540392&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026252&hvtargid=pla-811947212328&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=80273597927&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=372864680107&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11843657697893540392&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026252&hvtargid=pla-811947212328