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View Full Version : Lightweight Bucket Seats Needed For Glastron Project - Where To Buy?



Gordon02
09-19-2019, 07:29 AM
Guys,

I want to look at the cost and availability of lightweight bucket seats before finalizing seating in my Glastron GT150 rebuild.

I'd like to find good, low-cost alternatives to the Allison style bucket seats. I've seen some great looking buckets in some of the Hydrostream restores on here - where do these come from?

Thanks in advance! Gordon

Tango
09-19-2019, 08:26 AM
Best seats I've used... very strong, no flex and lightweight.

https://racetech-usa.com/shop/seats/RT4000WLB-seat

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David - WI
09-19-2019, 09:00 AM
Jegs, Summit, etc all have (cheap) lightweight molded high or low-back racing seats; plus extra foam pads, removable vinyl seat covers, etc... there was a picture on here somewhere of a boat that had them and it looked great.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/70250/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw_nAy4Ld5AIVziCtBh3OWwJKEAQYBSABEgLMU_D_BwE

nitro_rat
09-19-2019, 02:47 PM
Please stop using plastic high back seats in boats, they look terrible!!!

AZMIDLYF
09-19-2019, 05:19 PM
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Tango
09-23-2019, 08:25 AM
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Thanks for fixing the pics... I have no idea why they turn sideways on upload or how to fix it.

I used HD Aluminum trailer bunk brackets that I cut to fit, drilled, tapped and countersunk stainless machine screws in with loctite stud locker. These were mounted to the stringers with stainless 1/2" square u-bolts and they tie both stringers as a rigid assembly with a 3x4x.250" aluminum angle on the outside. The angle will facilitate mounting of the shifter, switch panel and fuel tank return selector valve. I then dropped the seat side-mount brackets so the seat sits down into the center sponson, putting my fat arse below the running CG waterline of the hull instead of 6-8" higher as it was with the side mounted seats.

The left side outside seat mount is a trailer fender step... so when I step into the boat, I have a strong point to place my foot when getting in.

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AZMIDLYF
09-23-2019, 08:49 AM
What hull are you running? Looks to originally be left side driven.

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Tango
09-23-2019, 09:05 AM
Eliminator Daytona 21'

I was building it for the Parker Enduro but decided I will build it for the OPEC race in 2020 instead. Last year I split the hull, top & bottom to reinforce the bulkheads, stringers and close out the rear running surfaces with floatation expanding foam chambers like offshore boats do to increase hull impact rigidity. I have used carbon and other materials in this rebuild but now it is on a back burner.

I guess I should start a build thread on this boat... I was just wanting to share with the OP what seats I chose and why. When controlling any boat, you should have a seat that holds your body so you can maintain control in any situation. Using a Cheap plastic or non-structural fiberglass seat in a boat capable of speeds over 65 mph is stupid.

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AlaskaStreamin
09-27-2019, 05:40 PM
Gordon,
What are you going to put on for power? Any hull mods?
I just picked up a GT-150 wit an 80 merc. I'm putting a Viper pad on the bottom and a 2.5L 200 this fall. Heard about the hull not handling over 65 mph.

Gordon02
09-27-2019, 08:59 PM
Ron, it came with a 1978 Evinrude 115 that was running, but poorly. I've found a dozen reasons for the sick 115, 2 jets in the carbs blocked, poor sync/link, but biggest offender is that #1 is missing the top ring (photo). The engine has the old-style, high-ring pistons that made them subject piston failure. What's really cool to me is that the 115 has the exact same porting as the 140's. With the addition of the bubble back exhaust and the larger 140's carbs - it's a 140. I've already got the new 1 3/8" carbs and the bubble back. While apart, I'm going to port the reed blocks and will scallop the intake side of the 4 new 20 over pistons.

My plan is different - I don't want or need a fast, ill handling boat. I am going to paint mine in the 85 horse scheme and decals you see below. I want monster acceleration and will be happy with a 60 mph boat that jumps on plane. I also have a Mercury hotrod motor that I could finish and mount, but it would simply draw the attention of marine police and water patrol. I am building the 115 to 140 specs just because it's so cheap and easy. I already have the Allison XB2002/ProMax SS that I bought new (avatar), so this little Johnson will be fast enough for this boat.

I've also heard/read that the GT is near impossible to drive above 65. Mine will not have a pad, so I'm settling for 60 max. I have the boat completely apart now, just waiting on my back to quit killing me so I can replace the stringers, transom, and build my knee braces. Keep me posted - do you have a build thread? I want to follow. Gordon

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AlaskaStreamin
09-28-2019, 02:59 AM
I started a post on HydroStreamforums.
i had a Viper/ 2.5L 200 that went 93. I sold and bought “the last Virage” from the Pipcorn molds in 2011. It was still in the mold!! Got a 15” 280. In my signature. That boat stays in Washington at our summer place.
the GT was bought in my home town in Alaska and will stay here. 45 with the 80 just doesn’t work for me. I pulled the deck and fully glassed the transom to the knee braces. All my wood is like new.
I’ll be following your build.

Gordon02
09-28-2019, 10:06 AM
Ron, what will you do with seating? I do not have any seats for this build yet. The ones in-place when I bought it were wrong, poorly fitted, and not at all correct for the boat. I have the complete plans for the factory original seating, but they are something out of the Flintstones cartoons.... While the Racetech examples are above my price goals and maybe too hi-tech, I would love to find some buckets like those in my Allison where I could use pin bases for the 3 passenger seats and a sliding base for the pilot's. Gordon

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AlaskaStreamin
09-29-2019, 01:05 AM
Iím running the factory seats. They are very nice but will upgrade from the heat welded pleats to stitched pleats. We have a upholstery sewing machine and my wife is getting pretty good sewing.