Mercury 1994 2.0L 150 (continued)

[Glastron1987]

Finally got the power head back on, so working on the intake now. Planning on some CCMS reeds and maybe some stuffers. Don't want to make any significant mods. Looking for reliability and regular gas. Should have enough power for the 17 foot CVX-17.

The question is what do people use for the 60 little screws (#8x32x1/4") for securing the reeds? The ones I'm taking off are not that great so want to put new ones on with the new reeds. I find it hard to believe that anyone would use the OEM ones for the price they are going for. Plus if their heads are the same as what I am and taking off, just regular screws would seem better. Do people use stainless or just plated? ...and do they go phillips or torx?

436363

[Merc 2.5]

Not sure of size screw but is Phillips stock and stainless , very very little torque required so use of stock screws is normal, have never had one break or strip , add little blue and just a snug. to tite will warp Reed and not seal as good

[Capt.Insane-o]

Go to an industrial fastner store and get torx heads.

[Glastron1987]

OK and 18-8 Stainless or 316?

[Glastron1987]

All 6 reed blocks now have the new CCMS reeds secured to them. The reed plate is pretty clean, but I was thinking a final washing in the dishwasher was a good idea. Could this hurt the plate or the dishwasher in any way?

[Glastron1987]

Well I tried the dishwasher. It worked pretty decently. It still left a few pieces of old gasket on that needed to be scraped off and didn't clean the threads as well as I would have liked, but was worth the try... and no adverse effects to the part or dishwasher as I can tell.

[Glastron1987]

Plate gasket goes on dry with no sealant anywhere, even between reed blocks, even with stuffers, correct?

[Merc 2.5]

Plate gasket goes on dry with no sealant anywhere, even between reed blocks, even with stuffers, correct?

Correct

[Glastron1987]

Stuffers look positioned right? The curved corner toward the bleed check valve on each?
437552

[RoyE]

That is correct.

I installed them last weekend. I first tightened down all bolts holding the reed cages and then tried to fit the intake on the front half. Couldn't get all the stuffers to fit in the front half. What worked for me was to loosen the bolts holding the reed cages a little, then fit and mount the intake on the front half and then tighten the bolts holding the reed blocks.

[Merc 2.5]

That is correct.

I installed them last weekend. I first tightened down all bolts holding the reed cages and then tried to fit the intake on the front half. Couldn't get all the stuffers to fit in the front half. What worked for me was to loosen the bolts holding the reed cages a little, then fit and mount the intake on the front half and then tighten the bolts holding the reed blocks.

This is the correct way to install reeds , Intake 1st then Reed cage bolts

[Glastron1987]

Thanks guys, that's good to know. Hopefully soon I'll be doing that.

[Glastron1987]

Any advice before rebuilding the carbs? I have the kits all set to go. They are WMH-31's.

439278

[Merc 2.5]

Not really , just take ur time and make sure float set rite on EA one

[Glastron1987]

Anyone use loctite on any of the screws during a carb rebuild?

[Merc 2.5]

Anyone use loctite on any of the screws during a carb rebuild?

No they have to come apart to much imo

[Glastron1987]

Not really , just take ur time and make sure float set rite on EA one

Excellent tip because each one did need adjustment with the rebuild kit, thanks again.

[Glastron1987]

The carb rebuild kit contains 2 "different" size idle screws. One is supposed to be a little skinnier on the end than the other based in a provided diagram. It says use the correct one for you application. Even with a magnifying glass it is hard to tell them apart. I tried using a micrometer and there seems to be about a .003 inch difference between the two sizes, but since it’s an angled surface it’s is a little hard to get a good measurement. Any tips on picking the right ones?

Other than that I am pretty happy on how simple these carbs are and their quality.

[Merc 2.5]

I'm not real familiar with wmh so unfortunately I dont have a answer for idle screw. Sry. Maybe sumone else does tho

[Glastron1987]

Looking for new fuel line for pretty much the whole fuel system, along with a pump rebuild and new filter. Looks like I'll need some 3/8", 5/16" and even some smaller for the enricher. For the 5/16" and 3/8" is it OK to use that gray stuff instead of the OEM part that cost a lot more? The gray stuff seems like good quality for a decent price.

[Merc 2.5]

Wheres Chaz at on this. Haha. Take ur lines to napa , get everything u need. Chaz has part #s hahaform fuel to bleed enricher

[Glastron1987]

Found the answer to one of my concerns. The gray hoses are rated B1, which will not be fire resistent. What I need is something with an A1 rating, which would be.

[Merc 2.5]

U just need ethanol resistance for fuel line , but napa also has the bleed lines. Fire resistant cool but prolly not needed

[Tin Man 2]

How about using a drill index to determine idle screw size? Set the screw in a small hole and mark how far it goes in, repeat with other screw and compare how deep they go in the same hole.

[RiChavis]

Sorry late to the post .On my 225 EFI ,the service manual call for a tad of red locite on the reed block and torque to spec.....(inch) per foot lbs.

the bleed line is Napa h-174 it looks the same as the Mercury line , but at a better price .
Chaz gave me that number .

[Glastron1987]

Boy that tip about going to Napa was a good one. Seems they have every size necessary... for a good price... by the foot. Thanks for that guys.

[Glastron1987]

Does someone have a diagram/photo or description for how to hook up the Thermal Air Valve (part #814612)? My shop manual is not too clear on this nor are the online images.

Also, why does it cost so much? I see its over $200???

[FORBESAUTO]

This is a WMV carb, one fitting on valve is left open, other is attached to the bowl vent fittings on carbs(hooks to the bottom “t” then short hoses hook between the carbs). The valve is closed cold, restricting air to the idle circuit causing it to run richer and opens to atmospheric pressure when warmed for normal fuel mixture.

[tlwjkw]

don't know what manual ya have?.. send me an email addy and i'll send ya a "good one" in pdf...

[Glastron1987]

Carbs and fuel pump rebuilt, and fuel system hoses pretty much all set.

Now looking at re-hooking up the bleed lines. From the diagram it looks like transfer ports connect to the crankcase valves as follows:
2 to 6
4 to 1
6 to 3
1 to 4
3 to 5
5 to 2

This all makes sense to me as they are all 3 cylinders away from each other except for 2 to 6 and 3 to 5 which seem to be switched. Is there a reason for this or am I looking at the diagram wrong?

[Glastron1987]

Carbs and fuel pump rebuilt, and fuel system hoses pretty much all set.

Now looking at re-hooking up the bleed lines. From the diagram it looks like transfer ports connect to the crankcase valves as follows:
2 to 6
4 to 1
6 to 3
1 to 4
3 to 5
5 to 2

This all makes sense to me as they are all 3 cylinders away from each other except for 2 to 6 and 3 to 5 which seem to be switched. Is there a reason for this or am I looking at the diagram wrong?

It all makes sense to me except why doesn't port 2 go to #5 intake instead of 6, and port 3 go to #6 intake instead of 5? The rest are spread 3 apart.

[Glastron1987]

Got my bleed lines all set. Still don't understand why 2 goes to 6 and 3 goes to 5 instead of 2 to 5 nd 3 to 6, but that's how the diagram shows it so that's the way it goes.

Now ready to wire up my power trim. The motor originally came with a 3-wire system, but after messing that up (not entirely my fault) I replaced it with a 2-wire system.

Instead of the two relays and such, anyone know what parts I need to replace that for the 2-wire system? Must be some sort of different connections.

[Glastron1987]

I guess the 3-wire has selonoids and I have to replace them with relays.

[RoyE]

I guess the 3-wire has selonoids and I have to replace them with relays.

Correct. I recently did the same.

[Glastron1987]

Anyone have a photo from the back of the engine showing how the 2-wire relays mount to the plate between the coils/heads. Having trouble figuring on which holes to use that keep them and the wires neatly positioned.

[Aaronhl]

Hurry up and finish it !!

[Glastron1987]

Hurry up and finish it !!

Oh you want to race me too:)

[Merc 2.5]

Anyone have a photo from the back of the engine showing how the 2-wire relays mount to the plate between the coils/heads. Having trouble figuring on which holes to use that keep them and the wires neatly positioned.

So hows the build comin along , will it make it for a maiden voyage b4 winter?

[Glastron1987]

The main things left now are stator, switch boxes, flywheel, and lower unit before I fire it up and mount it. I am quite hopeful for a voyage before winter. Away for a few days. But getting excited. Have nearly all the parts to finish except the stator. Want yo go new on that but boy are they expensive.

[Glastron1987]

Anybody have any clue what this hose should connect to and/or what it's function is? It's the (jaggedly cut) hose just below the starter and looks like it comes from the front half of the motor. Another motor I looked at just had a brass plug in its place.

446127

[FORBESAUTO]

That hose would go to your remote oil tank to pressure it up to fill tank located on motor. Will not be used if oil injection is deleted. Best to remove check valve and plug like other motor if not using oil injection

[Glastron1987]

That hose would go to your remote oil tank to pressure it up to fill tank located on motor. Will not be used if oil injection is deleted. Best to remove check valve and plug like other motor if not using oil injection
Excellent, thanks. So many parts not needed without the oil injection. Maybe I'll take a photo of them all some time.

[Merc 2.5]

Excellent, thanks. So many parts not needed without the oil injection. Maybe I'll take a photo of them all some time.

Ya it sure lightens the load!

[Glastron1987]

Here's a photo of all the oil injection parts that are no longer needed after the system has been deleted. This will be how I'll be running my second boat. I do have to add that my first boat has been running with oil injection for 31 years without incident, but deleting it on the second boat sure makes for a less complicated piece of machinery.
446338

[Glastron1987]

That hose would go to your remote oil tank to pressure it up to fill tank located on motor. Will not be used if oil injection is deleted. Best to remove check valve and plug like other motor if not using oil injection

Got it plugged now, thanks.

[Glastron1987]

New stator came in today. It came with a little plastic pouch of grease, but no installation directions. So where does this grease get applied?

[Glastron1987]

So here it is:
1994 2.0L 150 Mercury
An abused rescue motor
Much more work than I wanted or expected
Mostly stock with a few upgrades:


Converted from 25” to 20”
One piston replaced
Power trim upgrade from 3-wire to 2-wire
CCMS reeds and stuffers
Lower unit from 1988 XR4 (with new water pump)
Lots of WD-40
Removed Oil Injection System
Removed RPM limiter
Rebuild carbs
Rebuild fuel pump
Bob’s solid motor mounts
Other new parts (e.g. starter, switch boxes, stator, new thermostats, etc.)

Tried to fire it up for the first time last night… started great… sounded great… boy was I excited!!!
Two problems though…


There was a small amount of leaking around both thermostat housings. I had cleaned them both well before installing the new thermostats, and installed new gaskets. Anyone know if rtv or something else needs to be applied here?
There was no water coming out of the tell-tale (pee hole). On these engines is this supposed to happen only after normal temp is reached? That’s how my XR4 is. I can tell you the engine did not run hot, although it was just for a short time.

447290

[Merc 2.5]

Tell tale prob norm , especially at idle on hose , blip throttle time or 2 and c if tries pee then, stats and poppet gotta open, hiws water pressure? prob norm if all other coolin parts r new , dnt c y little rtv would hurt nething on stat housing, wanna say mine didnt have gasket but o ring built in maybe , been awhile

[Glastron1987]

Didn't have water pressure gauge hooked up but there seemed to be water coming out. I tried blipping the throttle but it still was running cool. Will fix the leaks and run it again to see what happens. Maybe I'll mount it to the boat first.

[Glastron1987]

What is a good WOT timing for this engine, with no limiter, not running? I was thinking 23 degrees btdc.

[Glastron1987]

So today was my first real test run (breaking it in on double oil)...
The engine started great
It idled great, maybe a little high, but I'll leave if for now
No stalling at all
It had a really nice sound... low and smooth at all ranges. Actually pretty quiet.
It bogged slightly but not too bad at takeoff... Not sure if this is because of the exhaust relief slots, the horizontal reeds, the 22p prop, or too lean on the carb adjustments, but once it planed it was a rocket.
I didn't push it too hard because of the break-in, but it did 55mph on gps without breaking a sweat; there was lots left, so I am expecting it will into run into the 60's.
Overall an oustanding test run. Boy am I happy. Thanks for all the help and support from all of you on S&F.

448412448413

[Glastron1987]

Today was the third time out. Everything is running great except it bogs on hole-shot (couldn't pull me up on one ski even). Once it gets past that it runs great; even accelerated great. Top speed on the speedo was around 65-70mph at 5200rpm. This is with three full-sized people in it. At only 5200rpm it seems evident that I need a lower pitched prop. Currently I'm running a Lazer 22" (3-blade) prop, but remember my LU is from an XR4 so the ratio is 1.78:1. I'll be trying a 20" High Five next that I have and see what happens.... but I am wondering if some of the issue could be that the low speed carb adjustment needs to be richened up. If carb adjustment is needed, how can I tell for sure which of the 6 carbs needs the adjustment and how much to make?

[Merc 2.5]

Next time out give this a try
After its warm and u no its gonna bog sum , try run it trimmed down n gear at bout 1500 ,2000rpm for 10 or 15 sec and c if smooths out in that rpm range then stab it and see if it dont help ,,, u need another prop neway, the laser stock sucked everytime I tried one , just my experiences with em