Hydro copy.

[Gorilla0178]

Another project. Rotten. Never rigged. Hin says it's made by black duck boat company. BDE manufacture code. Needs lots of work. Soggy inside, blisters on the bottom from being wet for so long. Lots of work to do.

[Gorilla0178]

Vector I think 17 foot long. 5 min of digging. 3 stringers I think.

[Gorilla0178]

It's defiantly not a light layup. Couple layers of roving and a skin. The blisters are where they put foam and never covered the holes. The roving is porous and let's water through to the skin. The skin being matt traps the water. I'll have to grind them all out and fix them. I smashed a couple and they're wet inside. So it'll be left to dry for awhile. I have a dehumidifier to put inside when the time comes.

[Gorilla0178]

Won't be a fast build. But I'll document it well.

[XstreamVking]

Do you suppose that the blisters have compromised the integrity of the bottom. I would be tempted to skin the bottom with an new glass layer to provide a "one piece" skin for the running surface. JM 2cts....

[LakeFever]

Do you suppose that the blisters have compromised the integrity of the bottom. I would be tempted to skin the bottom with an new glass layer to provide a "one piece" skin for the running surface. JM 2cts....

I thought about doing that exact process to a rotted V-King I found before I joined this site. I thought I could use the hull as a mold for a reverse lay-up sort of speaking. Glass/core/glass/gel then seaparete new core/floor from rotted hull and use that new cloned hull; run stringers and set transom but I thought better and bought a better boat LOL. I do wonder if that is feasible though

[XstreamVking]

I have done it on a couple of old whalers that were blistered badly. Hole sawed the worst blisters out of the bottom ("4'' and 2''saws") and ground and filled the rest. Skinned a layer of glass using vinyl resin over the whole bottom. These boats sat in the water 24/7. Were used as island transports. Never blistered again....

[Gorilla0178]

Not sure yet. There only in the area that there is foam inside. I will definitely grind them out and glass them. Not sure it needs a whole layer of glass. But when I get them ground out I might find its easier. It is a flat portion of the bottom. And I don't think its cored. Bu ill know more later. Im gonna need to add a whole layer of glass on the pad, and Im gonna flatten the pad too. Was considering addint a little thickness to the height of the pad too. Any ideas will be appreciated.

[XstreamVking]

I have seen a few Vectors, and other streams where there was a wedge added to the outer delta area of the stern. It should help with plane off and eliminate low speed porpoise. Maybe someone with some hands on experience will chime in? Other than that a taller keel pad might make it lift more and the Vectors are a handful as is. Wider is something I have always thought might make it more stable. But also might slow it down some. Lot of variables on these hulls. A pencil roll seems to be a very good idea. Several guys have gotten very good results adding one to a straight bottom.

[Gorilla0178]

I haven't gotten a chance to look at the bottom real good yet. I did some research and found out where they added the wedge. Ill get a straight edge out when its off the trailer and flipped over. I have to cut the cap off it, they glassed it on. the bottom looked straight as far as I could tell. The pad is concave so im gonna make it flat. Wider would be easy too. I don't want to make it too tall, but it is ground down a little from being drug on the ground.

[Gorilla0178]

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Im gonna glass the wind screen in like the first boat. It looks like they did something similar.

[XstreamVking]

There have been x=tra strakes added, big wedges all kinds of stuff. Mods are a crap shoot. There are some old threads about some of them. The glass windscreen is cool. looks good on the boat. You gonna flake the deck?

[Gorilla0178]

Ill be sure to get lots of pics of the bottom when I can. Maybe you guys can see any changes. I don't think there will be any changes that were made by whoever made this one. It seems to be made pretty basic and heavier layup. Not sure about the paint yet. When the time comes well have to see. Might get painted with whatever we have, or..... I was thinking about flaking it red, like wizard of OZ ruby red shoes. Black metallic windscreen. Im not a huge red fan, but I did love how my red boat looked.

[XstreamVking]

With what paint costs, flake is almost a cheaper alternative. If I do mine again, I will use House of colors flakes and PPg clear. I did a stream with that combo and it was so bright you just about couldn't look at it in the sun w/o sunglasses. That's how the original boats looked.

[LakeFever]

With what paint costs, flake is almost a cheaper alternative. If I do mine again, I will use House of colors flakes and PPg clear. I did a stream with that combo and it was so bright you just about couldn't look at it in the sun w/o sunglasses. That's how the original boats looked.

Dude you know your product. I have HOC base, mid coat pearl, and RM clear on my Camaro. 20 years strong and still looks great. IMO the clear supplier is not as critical as sticking with a complete system in polyurethane. So if you use PPG clear? Use their reducer, hardener, and ratios exactly and for each manufacturer respectively and ask your rep if its approved compatible with the HOC base which I believe so long as its polyurethane it should be. Houce of Color is amazing product, their candy coats are other worldly when applied in enough stages. Its all about thinning them down and coating many, many times to get that ten foot deep look.

For show caliber clear use 2 medium coats clear, one day cure, quick scuff with scotchbrite and reducer 2 more medium coats clear, full cure for a month or so. Clean up blems with 1500, then polish. Ohhhhhh my

[XstreamVking]

They have a scratch resistant clear (ppg) now that is tough as nails. Bud of mine is using it on everything he clears. It is water clear and will not yellow. Maybe as good as the old imron 500-s clear. I have the dupont chroma-base and clear on my Z-28, 20 yr old paint job looks real good still.

[Gorilla0178]

I like what im hearing. Maybe it'll be flake in deep clear.

[LakeFever]

PPG makes some quality paint. Sikkens, RM, Dupont, PPG allllllll very good I dont think you could go wrong with any of them using their top line products. As for the Imron? I have a pile of Mil-Spec imron I bought at auction from an Aircraft fab co. I like it, but not nearly as much as base/clear poly urethane. The Imron chalks up over time and while it is a tough durable finish its not as reslient to flex as the PU is so it will crack off rather than bend and flex. I only have experience with this one batch though, maybe there are other better mixes out there. Painting and refinishing is fun work, its so dang satisfying to see the end result after toiling for hours prepping you sure get a few hours of bliss at the end

[XstreamVking]

Imron is not the same now that dupont sold it. Azko Nobel has it now.

[keefallan]

I painted my 87 mustang a couple of years back. I did a lot of research on paints etc. I stumbled onto Southern Polyurethanes. Their clear is amazing and it will stand up to any clear out there. Barry is the owner of the company and he will take the time out of his schedule to talk with you about questions you have etc. Its an absolutely amazing company. But don't take my word for it, research it yourself, paint/clear is no small thing. I just know that I wont ever buy anything else. They stand behind their products and their prices are very good. The best part I liked about their clear was that one gallon purchase gave you 2 gallons of sprayable clear for 140 bucks.

[keefallan]

I forgot to mention another site for pearls and flakes. It is paintwithpearl.com. Check em out. I have used them on a few projects.............good stuff and good prices. I have used their pearls and their flakes. I just got done using a combination of their pearl powder and holographic blue flakes on a 72 nova restomod.