Coned 3l TM water tube routing??

[Varmint]

I have coned 2.5's, but kinda' unsure where to drill inlet holes on a 3l gen 1 TM? I have the cone in place and tacked with epoxy,but gotta figure this out b4 welding it. Seems the bobs 1/2" pipe fittings are too big to install w/out hitting the exhaust cavity,and staying away from the driveshaft tower. I have seen pics of it drilled out where i think it ought to be,but what about the rubber divider between the water and exhaust chambers ? Would i get enuff water volume by just using the nosecone inlets already in the case ? I think not,unless the upper 3/4ths of the cone were blocked off so that water couldn't travel up to the top of the cone's passage. Tks

[RSWORDS]

I have coned 2.5's, but kinda' unsure where to drill inlet holes on a 3l gen 1 TM? I have the cone in place and tacked with epoxy,but gotta figure this out b4 welding it. Seems the bobs 1/2" pipe fittings are too big to install w/out hitting the exhaust cavity,and staying away from the driveshaft tower. I have seen pics of it drilled out where i think it ought to be,but what about the rubber divider between the water and exhaust chambers ? Would i get enuff water volume by just using the nosecone inlets already in the case ? I think not,unless the upper 3/4ths of the cone were blocked off so that water couldn't travel up to the top of the cone's passage. Tks

I have a Bob's on mine. Its tight but it will fit. I went ahead and paid $50 to have my local machine shop drill and tap it.

Not the best pictures but all I have.

434882
434883

[Varmint]

tks man,that gives a bit better view,did you fill the cavity,of the old side intakes,to just below the new hose intake, with epoxy ?434910

[RSWORDS]

From the side up to the hole and the factory low water to the top

[Varmint]

been playing with an empty case and a magnifying glass,lol,you're right npt 1/2" is tight,wondering if a guy could use brass flare fittings, with copper tubing instead,,
From the side up to the hole and the factory low water to the top

[SUNKIST]

435058 heres a 3liter fleet master image

[RSWORDS]

been playing with an empty case and a magnifying glass,lol,you're right npt 1/2" is tight,wondering if a guy could use brass flare fittings, with copper tubing instead,,

you could I reckon but why? It fits.

[wolfgangb]

Hi Varmint,
recently coned (Bob`s) early Torquemaster: weld the water inlets at the tip of the standard nose closed. Use CSM and epoxy on the outside of the gills on the sides of the lu. Cast epoxy into the cooling water cavities fore and aft of the pump base (epoxy only to level 1 1/4" beneath top of pump base - where the plastic cup seal holder sits on), after you drilled
and tapped 1/2"NPT both sides in front of the pump base. It is very tight there, so you need a milling cutter to drill the holes, and very short-nosed taps to do the threads. Do it after welding on the nosecone casting, as the threads will close up due to heat input, as will the ones in the Bob`s casting. The epoxy work that follows on the outside of the casing, and filing, sanding, smoothing eats
manhours!!! Always allow sufficient time for epoxy and paint to cure. Guy that i did it for couldn`t wait, threw boat into water one day after painting and stripped the lot. Rgds Wolfgang in South Africa

[wolfgangb]

435058 heres a 3liter fleet master image
Nice job! I do know how much work went in there.

[Varmint]

tks. I ended up building a jig,to hold the case,in my drill press,,I need to get the case over to a welder this week,to afix the cone,,
Hi Varmint,
recently coned (Bob`s) early Torquemaster: weld the water inlets at the tip of the standard nose closed. Use CSM and epoxy on the outside of the gills on the sides of the lu. Cast epoxy into the cooling water cavities fore and aft of the pump base (epoxy only to level 1 1/4" beneath top of pump base - where the plastic cup seal holder sits on), after you drilled
and tapped 1/2"NPT both sides in front of the pump base. It is very tight there, so you need a milling cutter to drill the holes, and very short-nosed taps to do the threads. Do it after welding on the nosecone casting, as the threads will close up due to heat input, as will the ones in the Bob`s casting. The epoxy work that follows on the outside of the casing, and filing, sanding, smoothing eats
manhours!!! Always allow sufficient time for epoxy and paint to cure. Guy that i did it for couldn`t wait, threw boat into water one day after painting and stripped the lot. Rgds Wolfgang in South Africa

[Varmint]

I just finished drilling the holes for both sides,in my spare empty case,came out exact,,one of those measure 100 times,drill once,,lol,let me say,there is no room for error ,now I have a template for future reference,,tks. guys

[RSWORDS]

I just finished drilling the holes for both sides,in my spare empty case,came out exact,,one of those measure 100 times,drill once,,lol,let me say,there is no room for error ,now I have a template for future reference,,tks. guys

No "I drilled twice and it's still wrong"?

Glad you got it!