1992 150hp mariner switchbox

[baddog11]

Quick question
The white wire that connects the two switchboxes together was broken.
Made one out of #10 wire because I had a piece. Is it to large a wire to work or does it need to be the actual size wire that was originally installed.
Thanks in advance.

[XstreamVking]

It will work fine

[baddog11]

Thanks for the reply.
I have one bad switchbox after switching leads and performing all troubleshooting. Any idea what brand is good and a source to get one?
Replaced one about a year ago from local boat shop, it was kind of pricey.

[Merc 2.5]

It kinda sucks but boxes need b swapped n pairs. 1 can kill the other. Other words u mite b chasing your tail till u change both, look on promarine website, they have a good selection, cdi is a good one I believe

[baddog11]

Thanks, will check it out.

[Jay Smith]

That adjoining white with black tracer is the bias circuit and needs to be connected an “open” condition between the 2 will cause bad issues , you do need to replace in pairs Pro Marine is a good source as well as boatnet.com I use both , I do prefer OEM electrics JMO to keep troubleshooting paths consistant.

Jay @ JSRE

[baddog11]

Thanks for the info.
Are you talking about the short white wire that connects the two boxes together on the top left terminal or the white with black and white wire that comes from the idle stabilizer. I have heard to disconnect the idle stabilizer but mine is presently connected.

[Merc 2.5]

Yes that's it. If u disconnect which is recommended, you will need to do full link and sync

[nitro_rat]

All the “black boxes” (idle stabilizer, timing module, etc) connect to the bias circuit. Pull them and like Merc 2.5 said do a linc and sync. 21* is a safe place to set the timing once you have pulled the modules. Some go as far as 26* but you better index your flywheel if you want to push for max timing. There’s another thread that has been going recently about indexing and timing so it should be easy to find...