225 promax oil injection removal questions

[Bunger]

Ripped the oil injection off my promax hanging on my 20.8 Sebring this weekend. Ran both tanks dry last weekend and got towed to the trailer. But I’m assuming there’s probably still a little bit of fuel in there that the straws wouldn’t suck. Anyone have a good way to get alll the fuel out of these Laveys? Maybe just mix the fuel a little heavier on oil say 32:1 or 40:1 to compensate for the residual fuel in there the first time I run it? Removing idle stabilizer and putting my new brucato acu on as well. Also doing injectors and reeds too.

when I pulled the warning module there was a green wire going to the coils it looked like? Anyone know what that does? Just curious.

[rock]

I would drain vst as well and just add a little extra oil (couple ounces) to your fuel when you refill tank.

Rock

[Bunger]

Vst is off the motor right now so it’s drained. Replacing fuel lines and both filters (motor and transom)

[RSWORDS]

Remove your sending unit for the fuel gauge and you can pump the tank completely dry.

[rock]

The green wire is connected to the lube alert (warning module), detonation module, and #2 coil. Connections are normally made at switch box but at coil gives same results. For the detonation module it is looking for "noise" (vibration). Once it thinks there is a sufficient amount of vibration (knock) it can retard timing. Not real sure what the lube alert is getting from the connection unless it is just confirming firing.

Rock

[KIRCHNER]

Ripped the oil injection off my promax hanging on my 20.8 Sebring this weekend. Ran both tanks dry last weekend and got towed to the trailer. But I’m assuming there’s probably still a little bit of fuel in there that the straws wouldn’t suck. Anyone have a good way to get alll the fuel out of these Laveys? Maybe just mix the fuel a little heavier on oil say 32:1 or 40:1 to compensate for the residual fuel in there the first time I run it? Removing idle stabilizer and putting my new brucato acu on as well. Also doing injectors and reeds too.

when I pulled the warning module there was a green wire going to the coils it looked like? Anyone know what that does? Just curious.
I REMOVED all extra boxes and have a loose green wire my oil alarm still operates apparently it does nothing, motor been running fine without it. mystery wire? must be for det mod.

[Bunger]

Installed the new reeds and cleaned injectors and put the intake all back togethor.

But I lost one of the o rings for the brass fuel block that slides into the tubes going to the fuel rail. Can anyone tell me that part number? I can’t find it on the parts diagram. Or should I just go find something the same size at the local hardware store

also installed the new Brucato ACU. Turn the key to make sure the fuel pump kicked on and it only ran for 5 or so seconds is that normal? Maybe because it’s dry and not building pressure? Or is that a Brucato thing?

[nitro_rat]

Pretty sure that o-ring kit is NLA from mother Merc, was looking for a set myself the other day. Probably better just match one up...

[Bunger]

Anyone have any insight about the fuel pump only running a few seconds?

[tlwjkw]

supposed ta cycle off if ya don't start tha motor...…… if it doesn't come on when ya start then ya got a problem.

[Bunger]

So got it all buttoned up and the thing won’t start. Has spark has fuel battery’s good it’s crankin fast but isn’t even trying to light off. Checked everything I can think of. Also replaced reeds, cleaned injectors, and removed oil injection as well as installing the acu. Any ideas? Brucato is closed today.

[KIRCHNER]

Ripped the oil injection off my promax hanging on my 20.8 Sebring this weekend. Ran both tanks dry last weekend and got towed to the trailer. But I’m assuming there’s probably still a little bit of fuel in there that the straws wouldn’t suck. Anyone have a good way to get alll the fuel out of these Laveys? Maybe just mix the fuel a little heavier on oil say 32:1 or 40:1 to compensate for the residual fuel in there the first time I run it? Removing idle stabilizer and putting my new brucato acu on as well. Also doing injectors and reeds too.

when I pulled the warning module there was a green wire going to the coils it looked like? Anyone know what that does? Just curious. IHAVE a loose green wire and my oil alarm still works so it must be for det / knock sensor i removed all boxes execpt alarm.

[KIRCHNER]

when the vst is fulll pump should kick off. primer bulb should be firm. just use a screwdriver and touch the schrader valve, should squirt fuel.

[Bunger]

Weird. Plugged old ecu in and it fired right up ran perfect. Unplugged it and plugged acu back in and itfired right up. I’m scratching my head. I unplugged the ecu connection a few times before thinking that was it. Super weird

[Bunger]

Only thing I did different on the second acu go around was leave the tps plugged in. I thought the acu doesn’t need that?

[tlwjkw]

IHAVE a loose green wire and my oil alarm still works so it must be for det / knock sensor i removed all boxes execpt alarm.

if ALL boxes removed you can't get anything except an over heat sensor, solid "buzzer" alarm.. should not be any loose green wires... only loose wire should be a gray/white (knock sensor) from tha harness.. needs ta be grounded anywhere on tha block..

[KIRCHNER]

T ONYtold me to unplug tps with his new acu. im sending mine back with my old ecm i cant keep mota running, flooding all 6 cylinders, tried everything tested all senders. im going to put my old ecu on 1 more time clean all plugs and see if it will idle. strange it was running ok with new acu and then got weird, smoking, choking and stall. wont start back up now. plugs all soaked. like injectors are all wide open. i think you didnt have a good ground somewhere. u got better luck than me. ART

[Bunger]

It’s running great now. Idling good and revving on the trailer. Gunna try to get it in the water Saturday. And I know I had a good ground I even ran a extra ground to the water separator screw just for ****s n giggs.

[KIRCHNER]

if ALL boxes removed you can't get anything except an over heat sensor, solid "buzzer" alarm.. should not be any loose green wires... only loose wire should be a gray/white (knock sensor) from tha harness.. needs ta be grounded anywhere on tha block..
YES i do have 1 box my mistake still have a disconnected green wire coming up port side from coil harness.? im thinking that 1 box is my oil alarm. ill look for that gray/ white wire, would that have gone to head knock sensor? thanks.

[tlwjkw]

assumin' ya no longer have oil injection.. that would be for tha rotation sensor... no longer needed along with module... gray/white yeah, it may have a female bullet connector on it.. comes outta tha harness.. gray/white from det. module was plugged into it.

[Bunger]

YES i do have 1 box my mistake still have a disconnected green wire coming up port side from coil harness.? im thinking that 1 box is my oil alarm. ill look for that gray/ white wire, would that have gone to head knock sensor? thanks.


My green is coming out of the coil harness. And your 1 box is probably the idle stabilizer. That’s the only box I have left.

[KIRCHNER]

I DO have my oil injection operating, idle box removed. my oil alarm is supposed to be still operating, but have that green wire, going nowhere. your saying i dont have the rotation alarm? a mecury mech did the work now im confused. i wanted my oil alarm only.

[tlwjkw]

if tha green is on a coil and goes no where?.. was originally going to tha det module and is no longer used....

[nitro_rat]

This was originally bunger’s thread about oil injection removal. KIRCHNER, I think you should start your own thread about removing the timing modules but keeping the oil injection. This is getting confusing!

[Bunger]

Hahaha. Does anyone have any ideas why swapping the ECUs back and forth randomly got the thing running?

[tlwjkw]

harness?.. usually continious "in and out" action leaves most happy!......:reddevil:

[KIRCHNER]

this was originally bunger’s thread about oil injection removal. Kirchner, i think you should start your own thread about removing the timing modules but keeping the oil injection. This is getting confusing!
i agree.

[Bunger]

Just noticed the bottom left corner of the exhaust divider looks like it’s blown out. Is it okay to run for a hour or two like that on Sunday to test the acu or should I fix it first?

[Bunger]

Also pro marine has a standard and metal gasket. What one am I getting?

[Bunger]

Anyone?

[Bunger]

FYI it’s leaking exhaust not water. It’s all black carbon built up in that corner

[Bunger]

Ok new problem. Pulled powerhead to replace exhaust divider gasket. Replaced poppet assembly while I had itnoff. Put it back togethor today and fired it on the hose(which I’ve never done before, just bought one of those orange flusher deals) and the water pressure was 15 at idle. Give it some throttle and itd bounced around between 5 and 20. Turned hose valve down and it dropped to 10 ish at idle and did t bounce around as much when I gave it throttle. Is my poppet stuck or something or just too much garden hose pressure? Closest lakes an hour away to water test it. Also replaced all my bleed lines with the clear yellow hose on McMaster Carr (found the part number on here) and it was sleeping around all the t’s. Is the hose expanding on me or do they just need some zip ties? Didn’t think those lines had any pressure in them.

[Bunger]

Anyone?

[Merc 2.5]

I can answer bleed line. And that's yes small zip ties as heat off motor will loosen em up. I used tygon ,gud stuff Poppet ? Did u change the seal that goes in block?

[Bunger]

I can answer bleed line. And that's yes small zip ties as heat off motor will loosen em up. I used tygon ,gud stuff Poppet ? Did u change the seal that goes in block?


That seal was the only thing I didn’t change. Looked perfectly fine and seemed like a pain to swap. It seems to be working since the pressure fluctuates with throttle. I’m thinking just too
Much hose pressure?

[Merc 2.5]

I have lots pressure on my hose but I guess my poppet regulates it's not sure. I'm at bout 3lbs in neutral and 1ish in gear ,15ish close to wot. Bout 145ish deg. When the power head is off u can push the poppet and see if working freely , that seal can swell and shrink, and stick or let water thru when its closed

[Merc 2.5]

I did same thing and was gonna use old cause it looked good but I made myself change it ,yes it can be a pain in arse

[tlwjkw]

if ya have doubts bout what ya readin' n lake is to far away get a big plastic garbage can to put under tha motor.. put tha hose in tha can ta keep it full.. will get ya a lot truer reading on whats goin' down with tha coolin' stuff.. never trust a hose ta be anywhere true......

[Bunger]

Ran it in a tub today and had 12-13 at 750-1000 rpms. Looks like the powerhead coming back off. Is they’re anything common that people do that I could have screwed up doing the poppet?

[Merc 2.5]

It's pretty self explanatory I believe , if u went by manual should b fine , nothing special was dne when I did mine , just took my time and make sure all went together good,nothing forced together and free movement. Restrictions can cause hi pressure also

[Merc 2.5]

I just did mounts got all together it leaked had redo. Was able save gaskets, be careful taking back off and u shouldn't have to get more gaskets, mite be easier get that block seal out while ph off, knock out from back?

[Bunger]

Here it is. Pulled it out without pulling the ph. Looks fine to me. Wondering if maybe there’s too much spring tension?

[Bunger]

Should I back out the coarse screw to relieve some tension or maybe cut one coil out of the spring?seems like it’s working but just doesn’t open at a low enough psi

[tlwjkw]

that much pressure at idle indicates a problem somewhere but not with poppet.. it shouldn't be open at those rpms anyway so spring pressure is not tha problem.. would do a little more search for something else like a restriction somewhere.. if ya gotta modify anything factory something is no right somewhere... wish I could offer more information but we are ona computer so...………...

[Bunger]

Could it be the base gaskets I put on restricting something? Or the new exhaust divider gasket i put on?

[Merc 2.5]

Base gasket would prob mess with it if wrong one

[Merc 2.5]

Was it cooling fine b4 this and pressure b4?

[Bunger]

Put poppet back togethor and ran it. 10-11. Once I’d rev it up it would drop a few psi. It’s also idling high at like 12-1500 rpm. When I backed the timing arm down to drop idle it would drop to 5-6 psi. Plus it’s damn cold and I can only runnit so long till the garage fills with a smoke so i don’t think the t stats are even opening .

[Bunger]

Think I’m gunna drop it in the lake this weekend and see what happens.

[Bunger]

At 900 rpms all warm it’s about 5-8 which is where it use to be. I think the pressureshigh cause it is
idling high on the hose for some reason. Could the new acu cause it to idle higher than before?

[tlwjkw]

when ya put it in tha lake you can adjust idle.. use tha idle timin' screw.. put it in gear and adjust timin' (up or down) to whatever rpm makes you and tha motor happy...……