2.5 ff rebuild

[Merc 2.5]

I had a thread going when my 2.4 went down ,and ended up with a 2.5 200. 419427
Thanks to bullet123 which has been a ton of help !
Sent block off to James Perry to have machine work done. Exhaust ports been raised ,chest been smoothed for better flow ,exhaust exit opened up, oil slot area in block gas been filled with a type of epoxy and front half419429 all holes .015 over with 1 new sleeve. 419428
Block isn't finished in this pic yet. Will update tomo with new finished pic.419441 I'm going to pick up the block tomo and I will be updating with pics and prob asking questions along the way. Needless to say, I'm a little stoked about getting it all back together. Stay tuned .....

[rock]

Looks good.


Rock

[Merc 2.5]

Thanks of course hes done a great job as usual. I hope I dont have many questions but I'm sure there will be a few. This is my 1st build but not nervous at all really, just wanna make sure it's all done right the 1st time!

[toyomirage02]

Looks good could have went a lil further on trimming exh.chest

[Merc 2.5]

I'm on more of the mild side of the build, motor goin on bass boat. I'm gonna go little wild on next one for light bote. Plan was to actually leave the chest stock but he said he had to do a little to it.

[texasvector]

looks great

[TEXAS20225]

looks like enough cut for a bass boat ive had him do me some sure nuff mods ive been using James since i found out he was the best machine shop guy ever (that i have found he has done 100s of blocks for me ) he did the 200 tall block on my Bullet, cut .044 thousands off deck so i could run gasket heads he pulled sleeves done by Ruck port matched them added cut a very nice champher on ports, slots cut chest a ton, seven petal front with .040 thousandths cut on it brucato i been running it for a couple years now runs very nice for a fishing boat :cheers:, he also cuts a nice 260 sleeve block ask Ace bout his :cool: good luck

[Merc 2.5]

I'm actually here at his house now and the man does amazing g work!! New pic comin soon

[Merc 2.5]

419502

[Merc 2.5]

419503

[Baker343]

Just got this little 2.4 fishin mota from James, with some secret sleeves.
Going to try to give them hell at this years Parker Enduro. 419505

[TEXAS20225]

u must be tha man with the swiss cheese pistons and sleeves looks very killer:iagree: i seen the pixs !!!!!! smoke um down!!!!!!

[FUJIMO]

https://www.screamandfly.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=419505&d=1538261751

[Capt.Insane-o]

I've seen one block from James and talked with him on a couple occasions, the dude does top shelf work.

[Merc 2.5]

Just got this little 2.4 fishin mota from James, with some secret sleeves.
Going to try to give them hell at this years Parker Enduro. 419505

So ur the 2nd motor he has there. Nice

[Merc 2.5]

I do know all about those sleeves

[wrechin2]

So ur the 2nd motor he has there. Nice

His is already in California.


Thanks everyone for the complements!

[Merc 2.5]

Rod orientation? I hear part #s up and dont matter. Also the manual doesn't say which makes me think doesn't matter?

[Merc 2.5]

Man it's kinda hard to believe how dirty all new parts are ,, pistons goin on rods nicely,, the needle bearings and circlips ain't really hard at all when u find a good technique that works for ya (w/out special tools), also helps when you have every thing needed in front of you, Iwas concerned bout this process at 1st but ,piece cake, 419525419525419525

[Merc 2.5]

Not sure whT happen with pics

[XstreamVking]

What kind of assembly lube you using?

[Merc 2.5]

Pro marine needle bearing and quicksilver 2 stroke

[Merc 2.5]

So 1 of these packets of needle bearings has 31 (2 ex) anyone encounter this often?

[FMP]

Drives you to count everything till morning

[Merc 2.5]

It got counted a bunch times. Actually ea one got counted 3 times in cleaning and assembling process

[Merc 2.5]

Top cap is in oven , attempting to change bearing race

[Merc 2.5]

All bearings been changed, crank is in ,and installing pistons and rods

[texasvector]

Rod orientation? I hear part #s up and dont matter. Also the manual doesn't say which makes me think doesn't matter?

dont matter...but if u anal like me youll pick a way....

did james set your ring gap?....just curious

[Merc 2.5]

All was n spec out box. I did. Part# up

[texasvector]

All was n spec out box. I did. Part# up

thats how ive done mine...never filed a damn thing

any rod slot work?

[Merc 2.5]

So far crank is rotating very smooth ea time a piston goes in, sealing r staying in place and not dragging around. I being paranoid with ring compressor and rings on the pins correct, I keep quad druple checkin (spellin?)

[Merc 2.5]

Nope left that alone , If i ever rebuild it again i may do slots and heavier porting, but since this is my 1st complete build , i wanted keep it on mild side. Plus my bote wouldn't handle all of what the 2.4 had , So I know this one gonna be nite and day from the 2.4, when this motor is broke in and doin gud . I'll be over on the 20ft under section tryin find a stream!!:D

[Merc 2.5]

As far as I can tell ,if u buy a new set rings for used pistons then may have to file or sumthin ,idk but all these r great, plus James is the man and we know the bores r dead on!

[Merc 2.5]

Well here's a pic with 5 new slugs in, I have a questionable rod so on have 5 in, should have another rod here prob Wednesday, has a micro size chip on bearingsurface.. I do have a engine stand but its loaned out and Hes out town workin. So I have been building it on a stainless bench 419599

[Merc 2.5]

One thing I didnt do was go light on the oil! When it says oil lightly most time I let it have it , including soaking bearings, it wont b started for Couple weeks and I know they love the oil

[Baker343]

One thing I didnt do was go light on the oil! When it says oil lightly most time I let it have it , including soaking bearings, it wont b started for Couple weeks and I know they love the oil

Enjoying the read

[NeedOne]

Subscribed.. thanks for posting, def gonna be a good reference for some of those stray details that dont make it in the maunal

[bbezok]

[QUOTE=Merclover;3080108]One thing I didnt do was go light on the oil! When it says oil lightly most time I let it have it , including soaking bearings, it wont b started for Couple weeks and I know they love the oil[/QUOTE
Following your progress daily, will soon be doing a 2.5L build and currently on the fence as to trying it myself or having someone with experience do the long block.
keep the posts coming.

[Merc 2.5]

I am mechanically inclined, i dont wanna speak to soon but to me I knew if I did my homework and talked to the "right" people I could do it. Take your sweet time and if you catch yourself starting to rush, then just stop and take a break for min. Count everything 3 times,and have a merc manual either pdf on ur phone or a book beside ya. And clean clean clean

[bbezok]

Same here, have built several car engines and even a tranny or two over the years, most recently restored a 1970 Dodge Challenger to factory specs but never touched anything that was 2-stroke before so not being real familiarwith them, it's a bit intimidating.
Have to say though, there is such a wealth of knowledge on this forum and the willingness of members to take the time to share their views and information is truly priceless.

[Merc 2.5]

Yep I agree. If it weren't for this site and the awesome guys with TONS knowledge, I wouldn't be doin it , I'd prolly bought another half wore out motor. My rod should be here wed and I'll be able to continue the build. I love to read a successful rebuild thread from start to finish , unfortunately most threads stop half way or so .. good or bad this thread will be updated til its finished and hopefully running. (Praying lol)

[rock]

I highly recommend anyone with even a bit of mechanical aptitude that is into boating give it a shot. Knowing what is in there and what is going on can be very beneficial. Especially when you start trying to diagnose an issue. Its not rocket science.

Rock

[Merc 2.5]

thats how ive done mine...never filed a damn thing

any rod slot work?

Ok so he we go. I did a little back tracking when I got in from work. I ended up pulling slugs back out and checking ring gap, I know there is alot of controversy about this subject and I started not to post it ,but for those who are tryin this for 1st time ,would prolly like to know. With a bore of 015 over I end up with a gap average 022. If I'm not mistaken this gap # would be less on std bore? More on larger bore? But these numbers all check in spec for a steel sleeve and cast piston.(non forged) ,according to merc , nic cyl and forged pistons will have a different gap setting?, different clearances ,So I feel I'm good to proceed with the build.

[Merc 2.5]

Enjoying the read

Hope you kill it at the enduro, is yours going back together or back together?

[wrechin2]

Ok so he we go. I did a little back tracking when I got in from work. I ended up pulling slugs back out and checking ring gap, I know there is alot of controversy about this subject and I started not to post it ,but for those who are tryin this for 1st time ,would prolly like to know. With a bore of 015 over I end up with a gap average 022. If I'm not mistaken this gap # would be less on std bore? More on larger bore? But these numbers all check in spec for a steel sleeve and cast piston.(non forged) ,according to merc , nic cyl and forged pistons will have a different gap setting?, different clearances ,So I feel I'm good to proceed with the build.

The ring gap spec is .018 to .025 for that engine. Because of how I ported it, I added a smidge more clearance (.0005) for expansion due to heat. Having an average of .022 you fall in the middle and have a nice tight engine with very minimum leakage due to small ring gap. Ring gap will be the same in std, .015 or .030 bore as the rings are made for that size cylinder. Put it together and have fun with it. Just my .02:thumbsup:

[Merc 2.5]

Thanks very much for that info, all is goin great , cranks feels very smooth rotating, cant wait

[wrechin2]

I highly recommend anyone with even a bit of mechanical aptitude that is into boating give it a shot. Knowing what is in there and what is going on can be very beneficial. Especially when you start trying to diagnose an issue. Its not rocket science.

Rock
I second that Rock. They will find out what will and won't work for their application. I stopped listening to the negativity long ago. I have so many modified idle relief engines running around that the customers are tickled pink over because they are racing to a fishing hole and not for a purse and the performance increase is almost identical to a non-idle relief block and was told by many that I was wasting my time which was not the case. I have assembled worn out engines using used parts just to test a theory/ new mods and it would blow your mind in the performance they produced. "Team Junk" says it all sometimes. Just my experiences.

[rock]

Hope you're doing well my friend.

Rock

[Mrzip]

Used Parts :iagree:

[bullet123]

subscribed

[Radiant]

This thread has me wanting to try a build. I have rebuilt 2-stroke dirt bikes before. Not the same, but I know enough to probably get me into trouble. Now to find a block.

Following this one

[bbezok]

I hear ya, finding a block where I'm at up in the northeast isn't as easy as in the warmer climate regions with much longer seasons. Going to look at a 1998 200 carb, FF Block on Friday that states one cylinder is a little low. That's not an issue really as I intend to go right through the PH, but can anyone tell me possibly some things to check or to look at that might indicate it is a good candidate for a rebuild?

[Merc 2.5]

Theres also a ff block in parts section. , no salt motors and no holes is good start lol

[Baker343]

Hope you kill it at the enduro, is yours going back together or back together?
James has sent me 2 blocks to test for the Enduro. A 2.4 Modvp oval port and a 2.4 fishn mota, were hoping the 2nd one has some serious giddee up.
I don't want take away from your post. I've got a post going on in the general discussion, 2018 Parker Enduro invite. I will try to post engine builds and test info leading up to the race.

[Merc 2.5]

James has sent me 2 blocks to test for the Enduro. A 2.4 Modvp oval port and a 2.4 fishn mota, were hoping the 2nd one has some serious giddee up.
I don't want take away from your post. I've got a post going on in the general discussion, 2018 Parker Enduro invite. I will try to post engine builds and test info leading up to the race.

Nice. I find your thread , plz post ur results either here or there. Thanks

[bbezok]

this would be a salt motor I'm sure but it's pretty clean looking under the cowl. it's also complete and where I need everything, plate, tuner, carbs, etc. to retro my 2.4l it would be cheap enough @ $500 wouldn't you think?

[rock]

Salt can be an issue so look it over well. Before I knew about salt I bought one and it was delivered with a jackplate I did not want. Ended up jackplate and mid would not come apart with anything short of explosives so I removed powerhead and scrapped mid with plate. Lesson learned.

Rock

[Merc 2.5]

It can do damage to sleeve holders and things also , ( I believe), as rock says. Inspect it good

[bbezok]

All I want off it is the powerhead, plate and tuner so I'll inspect it closely....by chance the plate and tuner are junk, I'm sure I can find them on here.
thanks!

[bbezok]

thanks.

[bullet123]

Removing saltwater powerhead from mid can be a real pita. The 4 long studs become welded with corrosion. I have never been able to separate without destroying plates. I think $500 is a fair price.

[bbezok]

worth a shot for an hour drive.

[bullet123]

Yep, I do it all of the time. You win some, you lose some

[bbezok]

yes sir, average 50% I'd call winning.

[wrechin2]

Hope you're doing well my friend.

Rock

Doing well. Hope your family are all doing good.

[Merc 2.5]

I had forgot to mention oil slot in block has been filled to match the rest with epoxy of sort,and front half passage as well, little to late to get a good pic tho. But I will say that James did a very very good job shaping and matching rest of the cyl

[Fishinmymission]

I can also attest to how hard it is to separate the powerhead from the plates on a salt motor. The one I did I cracked the upper plate at the bolt holes when it finally came apart. Used plates are cheap though on ebay.

[Merc 2.5]

Ok guys got a quest. I was cleaning up front half getting everything ready. I have a broke bleed valve bottom starboard on intake. Do all these have check valves? When I blow thru em both ways ,the check ball blocks it? Is this correct. I have bleed valves out of a 2.4 front. All is same correct?

[FORBESAUTO]

Correct all the ones on front half are check valves let flow out of crankcase but not into crankcase. Oiler lines from intake just behind carbs to center main bearings are just fittings. 2.4’s will work just fine

[Merc 2.5]

Correct all the ones on front half are check valves let flow out of crankcase but not into crankcase. Oiler lines from intake just behind carbs to center main bearings are just fittings. 2.4’s will work just fine



Thanks I got one back in there now. Now some of these wont let me blow either way ? But I can hear/feel the ball stopping up opposite end I blow in?

[FORBESAUTO]

Should be able to blow from screen end easily, or suck from barbed end. May be plugged up. Be careful and you can remove the barbed nipple end from the base and remove the ball and disc and clean it really good. I use just a small drop of loc-tite on surface and press it back together. You want them to flow easily and easily seal back up in the other direction.

[Merc 2.5]

Ok. Reason I asked is I had 3 from 2.4 that was doing that I have all working ones in now but that clears it up. Thanks

[FORBESAUTO]

Be sure to easy on the loc-tite if ya take it apart, don’t want any to get inside with ball

[CHICKENHAWK]

What is 'ff' an abbreviation for?

[Merc 2.5]

I did take it easy but I'll double check it. Ff I'm not sure. Ff. Ee. Cc kk others I'm sure.

[FORBESAUTO]

Freakin fast! Na, havnt a clue:p

[CHICKENHAWK]

freakin fast! Na, havnt a clue:p

hahahaha!!!!

[Merc 2.5]

I received rod today, everything caps up great and is all in. Now I'm gonna go back thru 1 rod at time and and locktite and do torque sequence. Question, should I do the 90 deg or 45, the bolts come from wsm , I noticed some of promarine bolts say 45deg?

[nitro_rat]

Chase the threads, clean and dry hole and bolts. Red loctite 271, 35 ft/lbs. No angle BS!

[Merc 2.5]

Well guys ! Rookie mistake #1. I broke a bolt off in a rod!:icon_bs:

[Merc 2.5]

I had bought a brand new torque wrench , but from harbor freight , it never clicked threads were clean. Seem b working fine til I moved to the 30lb setting and it never got there!
This really pisses me off ! Been long time since I've broke a bolt but I'm not real sure it's my fault. Idk

[bullet123]

I never understood why mercury says torque and turn another 45 degrees. Why can’t it be a specified torque value?

[XstreamVking]

H-F Junk

[nitro_rat]

I never understood why mercury says torque and turn another 45 degrees. Why can’t it be a specified torque value?

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque-to-yield_fastener

[Merc 2.5]

Well I need yalls opinion. Should I try get bolt out rod or look for another rod? Not sure if it will come out with the red

[bullet123]

Certainly try. Did it break off flush?

[Merc 2.5]

No it hanging out a good ways , you know of a good extractor that mite work? Need a socket extractor thing I believe

[FORBESAUTO]

While ya messin with it, be careful not to get on the cracked cap surface and knock any of the tiny high spots down. Any shiny spots on surface is no good. Also recheck alignment once done. Hope ya get it

[Merc 2.5]

I may just buy a rod if someone has sum laying around?

[FORBESAUTO]

141’s? Unfortunately only ones I got left are culled ones. Getting harder and harder to get get ones. Bought a set of six awhile back and only three would pass inspection:mad:. Pro marine does have some by Sea Pro for $75. They are new and made in Japan. I’ve used a few with issues. On average they weigh a little more than the Mercs and will need to be lightened considerably for high revving situations. I ain’t really put any to test yet performance wise, but this last experiment mota I built has a couple lightened ones in it. So far only turned it 7k because of lean issues, but so far they have stayed in there. We will soon find out, and I’ll let yalll know. In mild situations for sure they are fine.

[rock]

Not sure if it will come out with the red

Heat.

[Merc 2.5]

I sent a PM to a guy that has a set, hopefully I'll hear back. I'll stop this eve and get a extractor and try gently get it out , if I have to get rough with it,I'll buy one,

[Merc 2.5]

Yes 8141 rod

[bullet123]

See them on eBay sometimes

[Merc 2.5]

Gonna go get a stud extractor, damn thing 50$ but it seems safest way so I dnt hurt mating surface

[rock]

What is 'ff' an abbreviation for?

This info from James Perry. BB 150, CC 175, DD 2.4 200, EE 2.5 200, FF 2.5 200 large chest, NN 225 Promax, LL 260, and OO 280.

Rock

[CHICKENHAWK]

Thank you for the explanation Rock.

[Merc 2.5]

I got it out and was able to save the rod. Disaster avoided I guess. Sigh of relief!

[Merc 2.5]

Now gotta wait on 2 new bolts. Think it would hurt if I just ordered 2 sps bolt?

[Merc 2.5]

So I'm looking at pro Marine for rod bolts and they have 3 kinds of so. Most expensive one I see is plus 90deg bolt? Thought no torque to yield was higher? Didnt see a actual sps bolt, they had non stretch bolts but were 3$ cheaper? :confused:
Little confused over that, u get what u pay for kinda thing

[dwilfong]

419928
http://parts.promarineusa.com/productdetail/M50/1/1/RB2500
the bolts are ARP not SPS from pro marine. same difference the middle priced ones are there branding. same as the high $ Merc ones.
Thy ain't cheep!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ask around you may find a used set of stock SPS bolts cheep.
I got a used set for $50 on a FB group.
Just make sure thy are the short ones for the 141 rods. Had a set of long ones in a box lot of 141 rods I got from some one.

[Merc 2.5]

Man that's what I was tryin say arp guezz I just pick me a set a buy em lol

[dwilfong]

Man that's what I was tryin say arp guezz I just pick me a set a buy em lol
If you don't spend the $$ for the ARP or get a used set of SPS stock bolts. ya gust pick the cheapest ones and roll with it.

[TEXAS20225]

i got some 25 plus ship. ive rebuilt over 400 motors ive never done the 90 degree more BS its always been 35 and red loctite

[bullet123]

Jump on Bobby’s offer. If merc lover doesn’t take them I will.

[Merc 2.5]

Bobby thanks a ton. Since all mine r new but 2. I'll just order me 2 new ones and let bullet get yours. I know he bout need some to!

[TEXAS20225]

ive been in the same discussions before with fong, ive never ever had a stock rod bolt break in a single motor ive rebuilt ever!!!!!!!!! even in my own twisted up promaxs or 2+60 or 280 or 300 x ive had all of them my own ,the stock rods wont use the big head 260/280/300drag rod bolts ive never seen 5/16 head arp that are hi strength but that does not mean somebody does not make them. i closed shop last year i had seven blocks back from machine un built and all kinds of parts i just pulled the plug i was SICK dealing with some people .

[nitro_rat]

ive been in the same discussions before with fong, ive never ever had a stock rod bolt break in a single motor ive rebuilt ever!!!!!!!!! even in my own twisted up promaxs or 2+60 or 280 or 300 x ive had all of them my own ,the stock rods wont use the big head 260/280/300drag rod bolts ive never seen 5/16 head arp that are hi strength but that does not mean somebody does not make them. i closed shop last year i had seven blocks back from machine un built and all kinds of parts i just pulled the plug i was SICK dealing with some people .

Yes, got my stock fishin' motor '79 175 partially disassembled. It broke a rod at 8,000 RPM's. This motor has been on the 'Stream since '81. Regular use by the original owner and then myself up to 72-7400 since then. Original owner scuffed a piston (#1) in the early 90's. He sent the original lower to Bob's at that time and had it coned. Cleaned the bore w/ acid and replaced the #1 piston. Some 15 years later I wound it to 8k for an extended period and the #1 rod almost cut the top of the block off. At first I thought the rod bolts had broken. After disassmbly it was clear that the bolts backed out. He didn't use loctite when he put it back together...

[Merc 2.5]

I'm putting all blame on the new hf torque wrench. It seem to b very accurate up to 25lbs but when set to 30 it wouldn't click. Moral of the story is. Stay away from harbor freight

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

I think I agree with you...and I'de be changing any other rod bolts you used that wrench on too,I've never broken a rod bolt while installing,thousands of them...Chris

[rock]

I have also never broken a rod bolt. I have felt several of them stretch as I was torqueing them. Pull them out and they have a distinct hour glass shape to them. Seen one back out cuz of blue Loctite and have seen a bunch of broken rods. Mercury uses a pretty good bolt. 35 lbs torque with red Loctite.

Rock

[Merc 2.5]

I think I agree with you...and I'de be changing any other rod bolts you used that wrench on too,I've never broken a rod bolt while installing,thousands of them...Chris

While I didnt get very far in ,the couple I did do in steps seemed to do "ok" would a dirty thread cause wrench to fail? Seems like damn wrench should had clicked at sum point? I should had been watching the bottom of the bolt I guezz but I never felt any difference on the wrench til it snapped. But again I can feel a bolt gonna break with a 3/8 ratchet, i was easing into the 30lb also. I didnt just (go to town) with it. Either way chris has me little nervous so I'm gonna replace the couple I did also, I've been very picky/precise so far that I wouldn't sleep good at nite thinking bout those rod bolts . I wanna get it on water b4 winter but ,if it takes a week longer so be it. So to the ones that's thinking about doing this for the 1st time. if something like this comes along , go the safe route. No need taking a chance!

[FORBESAUTO]

Dirty threads would have added drag and caused wrench to click before proper clamping force. The wrench calibration is just probably off. A torque to yeild bolt will only tighten so far then goes into an elastic state for “improved” clamping force (this is the point of the extra rotation after the last torque setting). Let’s say the bolts went into elastic state near 40 ft lbs and your wrench set at 30 was actually over the elastic state torque, it would never click but the bolt would just keep stretching until it gave up the ghost. This is more than likely what happened, wrench clicked just fine as long as you were below the elastic state of the bolted

[FORBESAUTO]

You can check the length of the bolts to a known good one, if they are the same length, you are ok. If any are longer, they have already been put into the elastic state and should be changed

[Merc 2.5]

I may not have need to but I went ahead and ordered 12 new bolts w/o torque to yield. Just standard torque method, not sure what kind they are,arp or sps or pro brand ordered from promarine , I'm 90% sure the bolts in it now r good but im just gonna go with all new standard type bolt, what's another 40$ for good insurance and not knowing 100% what state the others r in, I'm actually on a mini vacation in Gatlinburg tn at moment but hopefully by wed I'll have new bolts and start getting it ready for them .. question..... I think I should be able to chase/clean threads without taking pistons out? Nice clean rag under everything and just take my time ?

[dwilfong]

I may not have need to but I went ahead and ordered 12 new bolts w/o torque to yield. Just standard torque method, not sure what kind they are,arp or sps or pro brand ordered from promarine , I'm 90% sure the bolts in it now r good but im just gonna go with all new standard type bolt, what's another 40$ for good insurance and not knowing 100% what state the others r in, I'm actually on a mini vacation in Gatlinburg tn at moment but hopefully by wed I'll have new bolts and start getting it ready for them .. question..... I think I should be able to chase/clean threads without taking pistons out? Nice clean rag under everything and just take my time ?
I swapped my old bolts and bearings with out pulling the pistons no problem. Well worth the $40 for piece of mind.

[NeedOne]

Got a Q I'd like to add to your thread Merclover if you dont mind -
Whats up w removing the front half - can it be removed to inspect the crank and slapped right back together without issue or would bearings/ seals/ tolerances shift around... Any special procedures to note while doing that?

[Merc 2.5]

Not real sure what the question is be honest? Front half has to b removed to get to rods and crank. There is seals and o ring on top and bottom cap. Are you rebuild or swapping fronts?

[NeedOne]

Pulling front to inspect crank, and reassembling. Mainly wondering- is the crank/bearings and everything retained so it can go right back together without issue..

[Merc 2.5]

Yes everything is retained

[Merc 2.5]

So when I got back in yest ,I was able to get reed cages lapped and reeds and stuffers are on the Intake. I'm shy of the pics for that process as my wife was (helpin/distracting), new bolts came in today ,so should be able to close it up this eve

[rock]

Pulling front to inspect crank, and reassembling. Mainly wondering- is the crank/bearings and everything retained so it can go right back together without issue..

Lover is correct but the only part of the crank you are going to see is the counterweights. To see anything else you will need to remove bearings and pull rod caps.

Rock

[Merc 2.5]

Is there any tips or tricks I should know but putting the crank case on and locktite 518 ? Use it everywhere including on the cork? Or just where there is no cork?

[Merc 2.5]

All new bolts r in with red and torqued to spec perfectly finally! As far as I can tell (doubled and tripled checked everything) I'm ready for the case to go on. Anyone have any input for the cork gasket and the locktite 518?

[Merc 2.5]

Ok I have all new bolts in and front half on , just went by the book and everything seem to work out great. Motor still turning smooth. Got the divider plate all cleaned up and installed and torqued. Heads are being cut and dressed up now with mr chris Carson, ( that has been a ton of help ) as of rite now I'm missing my stator bolts. I believe I used them on my cousins motor when I re did his ignition system. Does anyone have a set 16amp stator bolts to sell or let me know what I need try look for?

[Merc 2.5]

I believe I got the bolts figured out as long as I can find em tomo.

[bullet123]

Im sure I have loads of those bolts, but surely someone closer has some for you.

[Merc 2.5]

I'm gonna stop and try match some up this eve, I was able to dig 1 up so maybe local hardware will have em

[tlwjkw]

ace is your friend.....

[dwilfong]

I used my same bolts from the 40 amp set up. just need to cut the one short that goes in where the timing arm slide slot is. Found out the hard way it blocked the timing arm on the trigger.

[Merc 2.5]

I found some bolts at lowes but the 2 long ones may need trimming but I think I got it taken care of. I also went ahead and got all new stainless bolts for intake and divider which they was 3 short for having enough for divider, thought it "look" better with all new bolts

[Merc 2.5]

420510

Thought I snap a pic or 2 to update. Reeds and stuffers , carbs boxes and things are just sitting in place. I was trying straighten up sum of the harness while I'm waiting on few things , its comin together tho420511

[Merc 2.5]

Also. Greg was able to change my screen name also. Wasnt fond of the other one , so now merclover has become merc 2.5. :cheers:

[bbezok]

looking good!

[Merc 2.5]

Can someone help with the correct size of the bleed lines? Promarine has a transparent yellow that I think would look pretty good. I'm thinkin it's a 3/32nd? Or possibly 1/16th. I'm about to order but thought I'd check 1st

[dwilfong]

Home Depot has a 10" roll of fuel line for less than $5. It is kinda orange color looking and harder than the Tygon.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-16-in-O-D-x-3-32-in-I-D-x-10-ft-Vinyl-Micro-Fuel-Line-1000018022/207144343

[Merc 2.5]

I had went ahead and ordered some from pro. I'm not a big orange fan but that's good to know

[Merc 2.5]

I am also swapping the motor trim pump out for a i/o pump. Does any one know the fitting I need that adapts to the female end of the line at the pump?

[Merc 2.5]

420793

Can anyone tell me what this is and what it goes to? Last motor dudnt have this I dnt think

[dwilfong]

420793

Can anyone tell me what this is and what it goes to? Last motor dudnt have this I dnt think

It is for the remote oil tank. pull it out and plug it.

[Merc 2.5]

Thanks a ton. Gonna add that to the delete pile , also got 1 more bracket that I'll get a pic of. Idk what it's for but I think it was sumthin to do with injection tank on the motor. I'll snap a pic n a few

[Merc 2.5]

Hey guys I'm looking for middle carb linkage for the metal rod type. Anyone have any linkage parts or linkage?420964

[Merc 2.5]

Pro marine dosent list it on website or downloaded catalog

[Merc 2.5]

Maybe the best damn 25 or 30$ spent on whole build!421060

[Merc 2.5]

Can some one tell me part # to the sought after 2.4 tuner? Is it 41941t? Should I use this tuner on this build or get a 2.5 tuner?

[nitro_rat]

41941T should get you a 2.4 200 bell tuner. The Bob’s tuner would work also. Some guys like the 2.4 bridgeport tuner. Of course the 2.5 200 tuner is also fine if you already have it. I would get which ever one is cheapest. Do you have the correct 2.5 plate? If not, finding one with the tuner already attached would be the simplest route!

I doubt you’d notice a bit of difference between any of the above mentioned tuners. Some of the 2.4 stuff and maybe even the Bob’s may need some “port matching” to mate smootly with a 2.5 plate. I’m not sure, I’ve never tried...

[Merc 2.5]

I have all plates matched and attached the 2.4 bell tuner , only thing I would possibly need is a tuner but if this is one works as good as "rest" I'll use it. Winter round corner and can replace with a Bob's but wanna get a few hrs on it and c if my work paid off.

[Mrzip]

What Hull You Putting This Mota On ?

[Merc 2.5]

Its goin on a 15 ft aries bass boat. Definitely not a speed hull but fishes good in tite spots and very fun to drive but little stupid! I've seen 80 with stock 2.4 200 and had alot more left. I'll never know full potential of this motor until I put it on sumthin else ,hopefully this winter

[Mrzip]

Not Familiar With That Hull .

[Merc 2.5]

They r outta Dickson tn. Think they quit making round early 2000s

[Merc 2.5]

421163
Well it's getting there slowly but surely. Heads should b here n few days. I know its took me little longer but I'm tryin b cautious (maybe to much) got a few odd end things left , also got the i/o pump swapped out and wow it's so much faster, I left slower pump on jackplate cause I figured it dont get moved around as much.

[FORBESAUTO]

Get ya some small little zip ties and put on each end of your tygon hoses. They have a tendency to blow off when they get warm. Doesn’t take a lot of pressure, just a little sumpton extra to hold em on. You can also get different colored ties too, to jazz it up if would like. Looking good, cant wait to see how she does!

[Merc 2.5]

Will do. Once I get all my fuel line on I'm gonna start zip tying. I just been doin alot of odds and end s and double checkin. Maybe I'll have enough weather left to get a few hrs on it soon,

[nitro_rat]

I have all plates matched and attached the 2.4 bell tuner , only thing I would possibly need is a tuner but if this is one works as good as "rest" I'll use it. Winter round corner and can replace with a Bob's but wanna get a few hrs on it and c if my work paid off.

Don’t waste your money on a tuner, what you have will work fine. If you had a 135 and no access to spare parts a Bob’s would be a good buy...

[Merc 2.5]

Well hopefully I'm lookin at a few more than a 135 lol but I understand what ur sayin. Gonna run this ole 2.4 bell. They seem to b as good as any

[Merc 2.5]

Ok guys. I have a question?...... I've always heard ff block comes 96- 99? My block is stamped 12-16-93. But is also stamped ff with matching # front ? So when did ff really start? 94? Is this 1st yr of ff?

[Bruce2]

I have a 1995 200 xri that is stamped FF..

421297

[Merc 2.5]

I have a 1995 200 xri that is stamped FF..

421297

Wouldn't urs be a 94 since its 1st half of the yr

[Merc 2.5]

421298

[Bruce2]

if you look to the right of the FF stamp looks like 5-23-94...Yep it's a 1994 just went out and looked, but title says 1995....serial number says it's a 1995...0G130941

[Merc 2.5]

421330

I found this hose I wanna use for the cooling hose but it said max temp 125. Prob need find sumthin round 175 or so?

[FORBESAUTO]

Yeah, stats open around 145 water temp. So at idle your normal water temp will be around 145, then ya get some mud or sumpton and can get a little warmer.

[Merc 2.5]

421343

Well I'm that much closer .. got lower back on it and fuel and trim and batt/pump compartment back together. On my choke solenoid I have a black wire and a yellow with black stripe , where do these 2 hook up at? Ground to the little ground block? What bout other?

[tlwjkw]

should be a yellow/black coming outta tha harness at tha plug.. if not there it will be buried under tha tape somewhere.. depends on which harness ya got.

[Merc 2.5]

Got it. Thanks. It was hiding on me. Not even n the tape

[Merc 2.5]

421375
Would anyone have the inserts for front of this cowl? Also a round one in rear that is missing . My bote sits low and back wash bad if I'm not paying attention, thought these plugs would help me. Mainly the round one in the back

[Varmint]

the factory inserts for that cowl wont work with that big bundle ,it has slots for shift cables and fuel lines to be run individually

[Bruce2]

https://www.ebay.com/p/Mercury-Quicksilver-54-19749-19749-Clamp-Harness-NLA/693277063?_trksid=p2047675.l2644

https://www.ebay.com/p/NOS-Mercury-54-19748-1-Clamp-glm/26021784552?iid=273382456402&chn=ps

Found these, but can't get part number for other side.

[Merc 2.5]

Rock is sending factory parts for cowl and I'm wanna try modify it to seal around the bundle or pull it apart and put it back stock. Rock saved the day and had all my cowl parts,

[Merc 2.5]

I have a question about one of the tube grommets that's goes in rear of cowl421683
I didnt take a pic of the "tube" that goes in the round hole but I think its suppose to hook to adapter or mid? The hose is pre shaped and round on one end and square on the other. Its under the seal for the cowl under the plates? I cant find a diagram for it. I'm using the 2.4 mid , I'm wondering if newer mid or plates has a square hole for other end of the tube? Maybe I should just close the hole in cowl off completely? Dont wanna take chance ingesting water

[rock]

Your adapter plate is for a 2.4 or you would see the location. The 2.5 plate has a channel that transfers exhaust from the starboard rear of the plate forward to the front of the plate then across to the port side and back to the rear of the plate where the hose hooks up creating an exhaust relief. Since you are attaching a 2.5 to the mid I would suggest you look for a 2.5 adapter. I would not use a 1 piece adapter.

Rock

[bullet123]

I use a one piece on my 2.5, but I don't run thermostats or poppet.

[Merc 2.5]

I hope I can explain this right as it was just explained to me so bear with me. On my mid which is 2.4 has the exhaust relief holes in back of the mid just under the round hole. The newer style 2.5 has those holes blocked off and the tube is used to let exhaust relieve thru it instead of the long holes in the mid, so in this application it's not used.

[rock]

I should never post till my dumb ass has woke up a bit. I was thinking of the wrong hose location on the adapter as the 2.4 and 2.5 plates are different. You are correct that the 2.4 mid will not accommodate the hose I sent you. Sorry for the confusion.

Rock

[Merc 2.5]

No prob at all. Just wanted make sure I got all my ducks in a row. I think I have picked this thing to death and now I just need run damn thing. Just being to pre cautious I guess

[rock]

Can't be too cautious nor pay too much attention to detail. Doing it your way is the best way. Don't rush anything and you'll be fine.

Rock

[Merc 2.5]

Heads will be here beginning of the week along with a new tdc guage. I really like the jsre radial cut but wanted change it up a little and not just copy it but I think they turned out very nice. 421943

[bbezok]

are those the originals off the motor?

[Merc 2.5]

Yes cut to 34cc

[bbezok]

pm sent

[Merc 2.5]

Update....

Got heads on and hooking up rest coil wiring now and gotta get timing set. 422197

Is it gonna be safe to do all the cranking while setting timing with gun? Or am I goin bout it wrong?

[FORBESAUTO]

Looking good:thumbsup:. You can set timing while cranking with all plugs out and each plug wire grounded using timing light. This ain’t proper method, but I do mine with mota runnin, just pop linkage from timing arm off at throttle cam for carb linkages. Then you can move arm to max timing position and check timing. Engine will rev up some due to added timing, but nothing crazy. Set your idle timing to what makes it idle good in the water and in gear without stalling and not too high to wear on ya clutch dog in lower(if ya shift with it runnin)

[Merc 2.5]

Looking good:thumbsup:. You can set timing while cranking with all plugs out and each plug wire grounded using timing light. This ain’t proper method, but I do mine with mota runnin, just pop linkage from timing arm off at throttle cam for carb linkages. Then you can move arm to max timing position and check timing. Engine will rev up some due to added timing, but nothing crazy. Set your idle timing to what makes it idle good in the water and in gear without stalling and not too high to wear on ya clutch dog in lower(if ya shift with it runnin)

Ok. Well I'm worried about oil in the motor. It's been on mid few weeks now. Has all oil went to bottom. Or am I gud to crank. I did clean and re oil cyl heavily b4 installing heads

[Merc 2.5]

Also Couple questions while I got ya! 422200 the bottom hose on left goes to adapter? One on rite tell tale? And does the poppet go to fitting in top of the block?

[FORBESAUTO]

Also Couple questions while I got ya! 422200 the bottom hose on left goes to adapter? One on rite tell tale? And does the poppet go to fitting in top of the block?

Correct on all three.
I think you’ll be fine cranking it at starter speed. Or just to be safe check it after your first 30 minute high idle break in period.(I usually set idle timing to idle around 1200 just before poppet opening during first few idle only periods)

[Merc 2.5]

Well I'm waiting on my wife to come and crank it over for me so I can set initial idle timing b4 firing her up , when I get off work tomo , I should b ready lite a fire! I'll do my best and try get a short video but havent had gud luck n the past doin it on my phone

[FORBESAUTO]

If ya got a remote starter button you can hook to the yellow and black wire terminal on starter solonoid and the hot cable and crank it over, if not wife makes a good remote starter button too:D. Can’t wait to see how she does. I bet ya grinnin like a mule eating briars:D:thumbsup:

[Merc 2.5]

If ya got a remote starter button you can hook to the yellow and black wire terminal on starter solonoid and the hot cable and crank it over, if not wife makes a good remote starter button too:D. Can’t wait to see how she does. I bet ya grinnin like a mule eating briars:D:thumbsup:

To say the least ! Been long time comin,

[Merc 2.5]

By golly s&f. I damn did it I guess , she fired rite off and sounding killer, I got a pin hole leak out of top of head/gasket, gasket went on dry, should I put sumthin on it to try and seal or? Opinions plz

[Merc 2.5]

Scratch head gasket. 5 more lbs fixed. All is gud. Tryin get up a video

[bullet123]

Good deal. Long time coming!!

[Merc 2.5]

Yep but I guezz it's been worth it , it sure sounds good tho. Got a feeling gonna need play with idle jets but I'm bout as tickled as they come rite now:D

[rock]

Congratulations. Take your time breaking it in. It's unbelievable how many guys cannot contain themselves and want to jump on it way to soon. Remember the longer you take breaking it in the longer it is gonna last. You have put a lot of time and effort into this project. Give it a chance to be all it can be and you can be proud of what you have done. I have sent you a couple pms the past week or so and just found out I am out of space so my pms have not gone out. I will get things cleared out and be in touch. Good job man.

Rock

[Merc 2.5]

Congratulations. Take your time breaking it in. It's unbelievable how many guys cannot contain themselves and want to jump on it way to soon. Remember the longer you take breaking it in the longer it is gonna last. You have put a lot of time and effort into this project. Give it a chance to be all it can be and you can be proud of what you have done. I have sent you a couple pms the past week or so and just found out I am out of space so my pms have not gone out. I will get things cleared out and be in touch. Good job man.

Rock

Thanks so much for the compliments!! I could not have done this with out s&f. Theres a hand full of guys that's been a huge help ,including you rock. It was this site that gave me the confidence to do it even tho I thought I could.. my wife just told me same thing. "Plz follow break in procedure " lol. Cause I am that guy that's ready to c what's shes got. But once I've built one and because I want it to last. I'm gonna take it easy as long as it takes. I'm very proud of it ! I've done lots of work on all kinds of motors but never a teardown rebuild back to runnin.. I feel a great deal of accomplishment.. be honest. I'm ready start over on sumthin else and do it again. It makes it that much better for the DIY guy that dont wanna pay next person to do somethin that you love to do. Again thanks over and over to all of you that had a hand in this!!!

[Hydrodreams]

CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Quite the accomplishment!!! Makes me want to tackle one all that much more.

[bbezok]

Congrats, well done.
it's been enjoyable following along with your project, glad to see your hard work and effort has paid off.

[Merc 2.5]

Little update here.

Did compression test after bout 30 or so min idle time maybe little more over couple sessions of letting it cool down completely, I came up 138 -140lbs. I have a feeling its gonna come up some more?? Whatcha think. There is less than a hr of idle on hose

[Bruce2]

Congrats Merc on your achievement..

[Merc 2.5]

Any comments bout compression? I'm gonna run another 30 min tomo b4 its maiden voyage and recheck it

[Merc 2.5]

Another quest guys. When u set your idle on the hose and your happy with it , what does it end up being? Avarage? Does it idle up atdc headed toward 0 or idle down? This may b a stupid question but... for some reason I think its off, it idles way to high closer I get to 0.

[XstreamVking]

800 on the hose is about 650 in the water because of the added back pressure. I think my 2.5 200 EFI engine is 4 deg btdc. Idles at 650. Set it in the water after it is warmed up is best way.

[Merc 2.5]

At 4 deg I'm double that?? Carbs shut

[rock]

Good compression numbers. Heat cycles important. I have seen idle timinmg numbers all over the place. Like Vking said, set it in the water and go boating.

Rock

[Bruce2]

My 200 xri idles around 1,000 on muffs and so does my 135 merc carbbed..about 650 - 700 in the water.

[FORBESAUTO]

I usually see a little increase in compression after completing break in, you should still be ok though. Like stated set idle timing on the water. Depending on carbs, idle timing varies due to different amount/size of holes in butterflies allowing different amounts of air with throttle plates closed. Set it to what makes your combo happy and enjoy it! Congrats on your build!

[Merc 2.5]

Gonna take it out when sun come out warms things up a bit. Should I keep my 28 chopper on it or use sumthin smaller?

[FORBESAUTO]

Main thing is you don’t wont it laboring, especially in the first few hours. You want to run it in the free and happy range and vary the rpm, may be easier to do with a smaller pitch. And let her warm up good before ya take off

[Merc 2.5]

Motor is very very strong down low!! Whst plugs do I need to get for reading and runnin?

[FORBESAUTO]

NGK B9HS10 work well. Need to use them to make sure ya got enough fuel on the water. Really need to watch piston wash when fine tuning after break in. But good idea to watch plugs like a hawk during break in, it’s guick and easy to pull over and pull a plug and take a look. Good idea to start a little rich and work ya way down after break in complete.

[Merc 2.5]

I been out here for couple hrs now lookin at my plugs and I'm definitely rich which is fine for me rite now but wanted double check on plugs. Gonna stop on way home and grab/order some. The motor is very strong compared my 2.4. I set my hotfoot throttle stop to about 3/4 maybe little less ,cause I'm not a half throttle kinda guy lol. But I'm keeping r downs everything goin great and motor comin around. Thanks guys

[Merc 2.5]

Its killing me I cant even get a 10sec video up here. Gonna have wife try on laptop later ,but was able to get a few short runs in today as we have a front comin thru with 20mph winds and my little ole boat hates big chop , I did get a helping hand this morn with setting my throttle stop lol on hotfoot and I was bout half throttle yest and moved it to idk 5/8 not quite 3/4. I have a heavy foot especially when sumbody tryin pass me! But was very few boats out , anywho. Motor is runnin so gud at a low to mid Cruz in speed, it seems get better all round ever time I start it almost .. as yall know the tunin and tinkerin just never really stops but it's very strong , I'm running 28 chopper and it planes my boat out very very easy at half throttle, it runs this prop like it ain't back there!

[Bruce2]

You will have to load it to you tube then post you tube link here...that's how i do it..

[Merc 2.5]

Hell I'll need make a YouTube acc I rekon. We gonna wrk on it sum more

[Merc 2.5]

Quick quest. I understand this motor likes 24 or 25deg timin , is it gonna hurt for it to be at 21? It just hit me to ask but that's where I set it tryin to b conservative I guess. Have not indexed flywheel either ,which I plan on doing also but I still dnt think I want it that high

[FORBESAUTO]

Low timing ain’t gonna hurt a thing, may leave a little power on the table, but much better than leaving molten pistons on it with too much timing:D. With out flywheel indexed, I wouldn’t run any more than 23 anyways in case ya got one a little more anxious than the others.

[Merc 2.5]

I didnt think it would hurt nething. I figure I'm gonna leave sum on the table cause this little ole boat just dnt want no mo. Tryin come up with a new hull kinda quick

[Bruce2]

I believe the manual states 25 degrees on 200's, but i only run 22 degrees on my stock 200, was told they run really good at 26 degrees but like Merc said without indexing could be a melt down. I was going to index my motor but have to pull coil packs and bracket off and bottom cowling to get my gauge in there.

[Merc 2.5]

It's also little different ball game when compression is "border line" burn one up quick if it ain't perfect. I'm not racing so I dnt mind losing few mph to b safe

[Merc 2.5]

So I'm gonna start the indexing process and got a prett dumb quest. What are you marking flywheel with?? :confused:

[Merc 2.5]

I'm also gonna use this to check all my electronics so I can stop worrying bout this thang!

[FORBESAUTO]

On the steel flywheels I use a little paint marker I got from McMaster-Carr. You can get any color you want, I usually just use white for ease of seeing it. In the aluminum flywheels I lightly stamp the mark in with a fine chisel, then usually use a blue paint marker to mark the stamped spot.

[Merc 2.5]

On the steel flywheels I use a little paint marker I got from McMaster-Carr. You can get any color you want, I usually just use white for ease of seeing it. In the aluminum flywheels I lightly stamp the mark in with a fine chisel, then usually use a blue paint marker to mark the stamped spot.


I wasnt sure if it had to be a "fine" mark or not. Also. When I'm checking I'll know what cyl is advanced more by watching the mark I made and timin pointer?

[Merc 2.5]

Also on another subject. I just put in new plugs to read to try start getting jetting corrected . Without running and lookin yet ,my prop is as black as a aluminum painted prop. Safe to say its rich?

[Merc 2.5]

422794

This is suppose to be a nice shinny chopper lol

[FORBESAUTO]

The finer the mark, the more accurate you’ll be able to read it, the paint markers come available with fine tip. One you get your pointer perfectly adjusted to the factory TDC mark on flywheel for cylinder one, you mark your 25 degree mark on flywheel using pointer (this will be .150 piston travel before it reaches its highest point) for each cylinder. Put timing light on each cylinder and check timing using your new marks at max timing, if ya find any cylinder that’s running a little more advanced, set that cylinder to the 25 BTDC. If you only want to run 23, you can set #1 to 23 and check all others and make sure none are over the 25 (make sure it’s just safe) or you can measure piston travel on #1 down to the 23 BTDC mark and note how many thousandths it’s down, then measure all cylinders to 23 BTDC and make marks for 23 BTDC for each cylinder. Or you can use this website uncle Chaz showed me to figure it out http://torqsoft.net/piston-position.html

[FORBESAUTO]

Also on another subject. I just put in new plugs to read to try start getting jetting corrected . Without running and lookin yet ,my prop is as black as a aluminum painted prop. Safe to say its rich?

I would say ya probably rich enough lol

[Merc 2.5]

Thanks much for all your helpful info !! I found 23deg (.120) marked it with tip of my knife and also numbered that cyl ,, gonna color the scratches with the white paint marker and wipe of excess, I think that would give me the( finest) mark , I wanna keep highest cyl at 23 for longevity sake. (Spelling)? And there's more than enough power now without having to be so precise cause timing so high? I think I'm on rite track? anyway?

[FORBESAUTO]

Sounds like a good game plan:thumbsup:

[Bruce2]

Not to high jack thread ..but how much of a performance gain by upping timing from say 21 degrees to 24 degrees...just curious...

[Merc 2.5]

Maybe a little hole shot and few rpm? Depending on load its carrying may not see any difference, btw. Been out putting little more time on mine and with all the new found power I feel like I drivin a canoe. I would had never guessed the difference! This thing is runnin like a sewing mach. The boat is very unpredictable, still havent raised the jackplate and hardly any trim and the boat flying, gonna have to find a hull now or its gonna b a waste of motor but sure is fun to drive. Anywho. You can raise timing little and everything still b ok. Or index flywheel to know for sure

[Bruce2]

Book says 25 degrees full advance and im at 22, is why im asking...200xri FF block....Thanks


Maybe a little hole shot and few rpm? Depending on load its carrying may not see any difference, btw. Been out putting little more time on mine and with all the new found power I feel like I drivin a canoe. I would had never guessed the difference! This thing is runnin like a sewing mach. The boat is very unpredictable, still havent raised the jackplate and hardly any trim and the boat flying, gonna have to find a hull now or its gonna b a waste of motor but sure is fun to drive. Anywho. You can raise timing little and everything still b ok. Or index flywheel to know for sure

[Merc 2.5]

If all idle/det boxes gone yes you 25deg but it is advised to index flywheel so u know if u have a cyl runnin a deg or 2 higher than the rest. If u set #1 at 25. #5 mite be 27. If u index it and find high cyl you can set it at 25 and rest be 23 or sumthin. Or set #1 at 23

[Merc 2.5]

On a lake rig ,I'd rather be safe and keep it round 23 on highest cyl , that's where I'll run mine neway, mine still sitting on 20, but I'm ok leaving hp on table rite now. If I had a bigger rig to handle the hp then I'd definitely index to 25

[Merc 2.5]

Hey Bruce whT is your champions #s as is now?

[Bruce2]

Hey Bruce whT is your champions #s as is now?

With 30 gallons of fuel 2 guy's and tournament load around 63 gps..tach wasn't working right( it was floating around then quit working) and still working on setup, im turning a 25 tempest plus, im about 3 3/4 below pad... i hear of guy's running 67 -70 on same boat. Put in new tach but haven't been back out in it.

[Merc 2.5]

Didn't realize u had 2. Must like em, u should be safe at 23 ,25 mite help but plz index it. Hate to burn a position cause it was runnin couple deg higher

[Merc 2.5]

Just got finished with another comp test and ended up at 142-145. Still need get a balzy tester but these #s seem good. Very happy with the build. Until it goes on sumthin else I guezz this thread is bout come to a end, with successful results. Thanks for all the help s&f

[Bruce2]

Just got finished with another comp test and ended up at 142-145. Still need get a balzy tester but these #s seem good. Very happy with the build. Until it goes on sumthin else I guezz this thread is bout come to a end, with successful results. Thanks for all the help s&f

The 176 is for sale and is a hand full, bought the 190 cause it was suppose to be a deal anyway, im thinking about sending injectors off to be cleaned and calibrated some Chris Carson reeds and block stuffers are on my list as well..will index also...compresion is 120 across the board stock motor.

You should be proud of your build thats for sure.....good luck..

[Merc 2.5]

Well ur 200 has potential for sure. Definitely get reeds and stuffers. Wish I knew what stuffers alone did but I did to much at 1 time to know. While your still healthy u could bring comp up 10 or 15lbs would definitely help but I'm not sure what would need be dne ecu or whatever it is lol. Carb guy here. Not a great one at that

[FORBESAUTO]

Just got finished with another comp test and ended up at 142-145. Still need get a balzy tester but these #s seem good. Very happy with the build. Until it goes on sumthin else I guezz this thread is bout come to a end, with successful results. Thanks for all the help s&f

Love to hear good success stories, I’m tickled pink for ya! But, yeah right, it ain’t near bout over! You done done been bit! You ain’t never gonna be able to leave well enough alone now, you’ll forever be tinkerin and foolin wit it, trying to see what else you can get out of it! Great job, and congratulations!

[Merc 2.5]

Love to hear good success stories, I’m tickled pink for ya! But, yeah right, it ain’t near bout over! You done done been bit! You ain’t never gonna be able to leave well enough alone now, you’ll forever be tinkerin and foolin wit it, trying to see what else you can get out of it! Great job, and congratulations!

Yes you r exactly rite. I'll always have a wrench on this thang but I cant really look for more speed on this hull. That will change this winter hahaha,,, but. I'm am just about start looking for another block to go little more wild with , I'm thinkin a 2.0 , I have a very lite checkmate that a trex 2.0 would live great on at 9 0r 10k

[Merc 2.5]

Got a little nice weather and boat needs gas. I started off 25/1. How long/many tanks do I run 32/1 ?

[Merc 2.5]

Also. When do I switch over to the plus? Synthetic blend?

[Merc 2.5]

Went ahead did another tank 32.1 , I'm thinkin once this gallon of quicksilver gone then swap to the synthetic mix? Correct? Or should I not use the blend?

[FORBESAUTO]

This is just the way I’ve been doing it, I’ll run it double oiled for the first 10 hours including the three hours idle time on hose. ( I reset one of my trips on my GPS to keep up with time) I’ll run it 32:1 to 15 hours, after that I run the blend or Alisyn and then run the mixture it’s gonna normally be used at. (I stay at 32:1 on motas I’m gonna be running over 7K regularly) I won’t really run it all out until after 20 hours.

[Merc 2.5]

Hey guys. I'm putting n solid mounts and the top givin me a damn fit. Not letting my plate seal. Like mount to big. Anyone had these problems?

[Merc 2.5]

When I try pull it down with bolts its pulling bottom plate from mid. Wth is going on. I've had it apart and back together 10 times. Mounts r n correct. Seems b doin it with rubber and solid mounts.

[Bruce2]

They only fit in one way, which you probably already know....Did you clean out the pockets really good...check for any sharp edges from the other mounts being worn out and making a burr somewhere. Just some things off top of my head...

[Merc 2.5]

Lol. I hate to say y it wasnt fitting rite. But I will say it was lots cussin and wanted take a hammer to it after bout 6 or 7 times on and off. Little plastic piece on water tube sticking up sum:icon_bs: