Stuck Bolt OMC 60

[Alan Power]

I have broken the head off one of the bolts that bolt the powerhead through the adapter plate and the bolt is seized in the adapter. Evrything else is free and the motor is loose except for this bolt. Has anyone any ideas on how to get this out? I have been at it for 2 days and I'm fresh out of ideas. Will pot pics if their needed.

Alan...

[H2Onut]

Lefty drill bit....

[MTCM]

Propane Torch may work. Heat the bolt if you can get to the area it is in. Try to concentrate the flame to the bolt only. Get it hot then use the lefty drill bit/bolt extractor to help get it out.

[MattGreen]

While well-intentioned, the previous responses may have missed that this engine is located in Ireland, thus more than likely is a saltwater engine. You MUST USE HEAT, LOTS OF IT, when trying to take apart any water-exposed bolt, especially powerhead bolts, on a salty motor. If you don't............. Drilling out an entire powerhead bolt is a massive undertaking, and the use of lefty's or easy-outs is pointless when the entire shank of the bolt is corroded in place, as it likely the case here. If sufficient torque was applied to the head to break the head off, yet the bolt still didn't budge, then why would a small-diameter left-handed tool of any kind have better success ?

If the entire bolt head is broken off, leaving only the shank, you can probably drive the bolt out. As long as the stub isn't mushroomed too bad, and all or most of the other bolts are out, you can drive the broken bolt upwards. Heat the adapter plate area HEAVILY with an oxy-fuel torch, and at the same time drive upwards on the bolt with an air hammer. You should have the powerhead on a hoist already to put some upward tension on the whole business. A helper would really be in order. You might not be able to get it all the way out, but you'll be able to raise it enough to cut the now-exposed shank with a recip. saw or cutting torch. At this point, you can drive the remaining shank back out of the adapter and work on the part that's still stuck in the powerhead. Depending on how much is exposed on the block, you may be able to get it undone with vise-grips and torch; failing that, it's drilling time.

I was presented with almost this exact situation a few months ago on a 30 year old 50 horse OMC that had spent it's entire life on a herring skiff. We had 4 (that's right, 4) broken bolts to deal with. It took 2 of us about an hour, working our way around, but we got it apart. Cursing helps a lot. :p

Have fun,
Matt Green

[Alan Power]

I've tried the heat and have the engine suspended from the roof. Was going to use the easy-outs but cant get a bit in there straight, it's too close to the down housing.

Matt, I have been hitting the bolt but am afraid of splaying the end of the shank badly. Well tomarrow is another day!!! Fun Fun Fun :D

Thanks all,

Alan...

[Dave S]

What someone told me to do in this time is to drill, with a small bit at 90 dergees in to the stuck bolt. Do this with the intent of cutting the bolt. Three holes close will cut the shank, then you can have the holes welded. Drill the holes close to the matteing surface but leave room to grab the bolt when you have pulled the head. Salt gets in holes and builds up, If you hit the bolt head side ways with a Mercury speical tool { HAMMER } it loosens the salts grip before you use a wrench. This is the poor mans impact wrench.:)

[Alan Power]

Finally, its out.
Thanks Dave, it was the 90 degree drilling that did it. After the heat, the banging, the shouting and the cursing - 3 small holes (and one big).
I don't even need to get the adapter welded, I have another in the shed.
Thanks guys.