View Full Version : OMC Tech Etec help
dgscroggs
05-28-2018, 07:02 PM
Put the boat in it idled as per the usual , idled down river a few more minutes, got boat on plane and as soon as it was starting to get goin it started spitting and sputtering so I backed off and it was idiling rough for min then died and now it will only fire for 1/2 second and shut down I noticed the emm has trouble shooting lights and they all come on in the start position except the crank position ok light , could it have jumped timing ? What would cause that, is that the real problem, never worked on one these animals before so any info is appreciated thx
oldschoolltv
05-28-2018, 07:05 PM
Could be just plugs my old fict would foul them out every once in a while.
dgscroggs
05-28-2018, 07:20 PM
Could be just plugs my old fict would foul them out every once in a while.
Checked the plugs they were good replaced them anyway and checked for spark all 6 were good
oldschoolltv
05-28-2018, 07:25 PM
May be the optical sensor, I’m sure someone will jump in soon with more knowledge then me on these.
davemvegas
05-28-2018, 08:14 PM
2 stroke has nothing in timing to ump. No stator or trigger on a motor with alt and ecm/emm. The no crank senor light is the best place to start. Look over the wires and connectors. Check air gap on sensor. Hook a meter to crank sensor wires and spin motor and watch for pulse.
oldschoolltv
05-28-2018, 08:15 PM
He might have been thinking flywheel key sheared.
dgscroggs
05-28-2018, 08:24 PM
He might have been thinking flywheel key sheared.
Yes that is what I'm thinking thx Matt might just give Monty a call tomorrow
H2OPERF
05-29-2018, 06:05 AM
What year is it? Did you check fuel/primer bulb.? the lift pumps fail fairly regular..dave
dgscroggs
05-29-2018, 06:23 AM
What year is it? Did you check fuel/primer bulb.? the lift pumps fail fairly regular..dave
It's a 2008 but the emm is showing something wrong with crank position unless those indicator lights aren't all that accurate idk
H2OPERF
05-29-2018, 09:57 PM
That light wont be on unless its cranking over and the emm senses flywheel motion/position. did you try squeezing the primer bulb ? was it full ? check the high press pump see if its running when you first turn on the key..you can hear if its primed and bypasssing fuel by an usteady sound. Dave
dgscroggs
05-30-2018, 05:03 PM
That light wont be on unless its cranking over and the emm senses flywheel motion/position. did you try squeezing the primer bulb ? was it full ? check the high press pump see if its running when you first turn on the key..you can hear if its primed and bypasssing fuel by an usteady sound. Dave primer ball feels normal and I did try and squeeze it, wasn't real hard or anything , trying to test the 55v capacitor now with a continuity test when I put my positive lead on the positive side of capacitor I get nothing but if I reverse it I get continuity?!?! Have u ever tested one before ?
davemvegas
05-30-2018, 07:35 PM
Why are you not testing crank sensor gap and output? That is what you said the light is telling you.
dgscroggs
05-30-2018, 08:30 PM
Why are you not testing crank sensor gap and output? That is what you said the light is telling you.
Just doing few things Monty suggested and trying to navigate around something I have no idea about lol but just before I had to go to kids basketball game I pulled fuel filter and I think there is water in the fuel and as h20 said that light does come on when the engine is turned over but we'll see hopefully it's just fuel ,won't be stopping at that gas station again!!!!!
baja200merk
05-30-2018, 08:47 PM
First of all is Fuel pump turning on for 5-10sec when key is turned to on position?
capacittor fires injectors at startup if injectors aea clicking while cranking it’s usually fine.
CPS light will only light up while cranking. It is off with ignition on.
Flywheel keyway in one piece?
a little water in the filter should turn on the check engine light. A little water in the bottom won’t stop it from running.
H2OPERF
05-31-2018, 11:30 AM
What kevin said, just want to add everyone freaks out with these new engines and looks at it like its a rocket engine.. there the same old thing with some new crap bolted to it but the same old basics apply . Does it have fuel, does it have spark , is the spark on time, check all BASIC crap you can as you would if it was a 1980 xflow that wouldnt start then go from there.. intermittent issues are worse than your prob and will usually need the lap top to verify history.. Kevin, Gordon and racer know these better than anyone .. Dave
dgscroggs
05-31-2018, 11:56 AM
First of all is Fuel pump turning on for 5-10sec when key is turned to on position?
capacittor fires injectors at startup if injectors aea clicking while cranking it’s usually fine.
CPS light will only light up while cranking. It is off with ignition on.
Flywheel keyway in one piece?
a little water in the filter should turn on the check engine light. A little water in the bottom won’t stop it from running.fuel pump does turn on with key as usual,emptied the fuel filter and it was not just a little water but a chit load lol, is there any easy way to flush out all the fuel lines , it's getting good gas now , and it's trying to run. It I think there's still a lot of trash in the lines
H2OPERF
05-31-2018, 11:58 AM
Yea they are green but not that green, water is for trees..lol
dgscroggs
06-01-2018, 11:55 AM
well looks like when ur not trying to purify water thru ur engine they run pretty good on just gas by itself thank you all for ur time and comments I appreciate it. Dan:cheers:
Baja16
06-01-2018, 12:42 PM
Easiest way to flush the fuel system is to hook the motor to a good fuel source and remove the fuel return line (from the injectors) on the bottom of the VST. Then hook the HPFP on the VST to a 12v source to run the pump. Use a primer bulb to push fuel through the low pressure side of the system to the VST and the HPFP while running will push fuel through the high pressure side. Let the return line drain into a container and continue to flush till your satisfied. Id mix a little oil (say 150:1) in the gas to help prevent corrosion in the fuel system till all the water is gone...
davemvegas
06-01-2018, 03:55 PM
Easiest way to flush the fuel system is to hook the motor to a good fuel source and remove the fuel return line (from the injectors) on the bottom of the VST. Then hook the HPFP on the VST to a 12v source to run the pump. Use a primer bulb to push fuel through the low pressure side of the system to the VST and the HPFP while running will push fuel through the high pressure side. Let the return line drain into a container and continue to flush till your satisfied. Id mix a little oil (say 150:1) in the gas to help prevent corrosion in the fuel system till all the water is gone...
you were tooling along pretty good until you advised the oil in the tank. direct injection motors normally wont tolerate oil in fuel. I am not sure on the etec. But i did put some oil in my tank to my 300xs opti-turd. Made a mess in the fuel rails.
Baja16
06-01-2018, 04:13 PM
you were tooling along pretty good until you advised the oil in the tank. direct injection motors normally wont tolerate oil in fuel. I am not sure on the etec. But i did put some oil in my tank to my 300xs opti-turd. Made a mess in the fuel rails.
Maybe in a Merc, but not in a Ficht/Etec. All ficht's and the early E-Tec oil systems mixed oil in the gas on the vacuum side of the fuel lift pump. They stopped doing this around 2007/8 MY. It was recommend by BRP Service Tech's to add a little oil in the gas to help combat corrosion if large amounts of water get into the fuel systems on their DI engines.
H2OPERF
06-02-2018, 08:46 AM
I have been dumping a solo cup full of oil every time i gas up to fight corr in the tank and fuel system for as long as i have had my etec v6 with no ill issues so far..
H2OPERF
06-03-2018, 03:32 PM
You really need to get that thing in the water and run it on plane for a good while after you get it going good on the hose, depending on how much water it was pumping thru it before it finally died and with cranking on it trying to get it started i'm sure water/vapor or got in the crank side and settled ...when it gets down in the bottom main it takes higher than hose rpm to get the stuff pumped up to the top and burned off, it doesnt take much to get rust spots on the surfaces and then you have a failure down the road..
dgscroggs
06-03-2018, 07:13 PM
Thanks Dave , unfortunately was unable to do so this weekend, it was the last weekend of my kids sports activities, so I now have been set free!! I have been giving it some gas on the hose aswell, gonna try after work tomorrow if it's not raining and then run a tank thru it next weekend
powerabout
07-15-2018, 07:26 PM
Do any of the etec injector cleaning companies re check the flow and give you an updated disk to upload?
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