sealing rings have rotated into front 1/2 leaving notches

[WATERWINGS]

They look like they have rotated for some reason, and cut into the cover, leaving an edge where the split on the ring would be.

I know they are supposed to be straight up when you assemble, but in this case, should I rotate them into the cut place to to allow for a better seal?

If I put them straight up, it seems like there would be more of a chance to have a leak at this spot.

I have already flap wheeled the sealing ring lands, but would have to do right much more flap wheeling to keep it basically even and that may take to much out.

It's about 1/4" (rotation wise) into the cover.

(if it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all)

[WATERWINGS]

Are we Guru-less?

Shall I wing it?

[Talon2.5]

if you already smoothed it with the flapper wheel install them straight up should be fine :)

[WATERWINGS]

Yes, already flapwheeled them clean, but the place where the sealing ring turned is not cleaned up, it is deeper.

[us1]

After the flapper wheel the groves should not be there any more.

[WATERWINGS]

The normal grooves are gone, these are where the ring rotated to the block and below the split line and "cut" a deeper "gouge" about 1/4 inch of rotation.

They are only in one place, if I take this spot out, the sealing ring land will not be round anymore.

[us1]

I would have to see a picture of that. When I have to flapper wheel the block smooth all the way around.

[WATERWINGS]

I will post a photo tonight.

[us1]

Cool:cool:

[novalves]

when they go back in be shure to radius the tips so they behave more like a ski than a tool bit.

They will rotate a little no matter what .( Laped & coated ones rotate less)

[WATERWINGS]

Alos, if I cut this out won't the two halves mismatch?

[WATERWINGS]

2

[WATERWINGS]

The main bearing land in the photo before, looks bad mabey, but you can barely feel it with your finger.

Also, it looks like I need to take some more off of sealing ring land to the right, or will it be ok? (it has some pits)

[us1]

I bolt the block 1/2s together and use a 12-inch drill bit extension when that happens.

[novalves]

Hey waterwings

When the front half is installed does the groove or the uneffected part of the land match the block?

Which side are the grooves on L or R (as you stand behind the boat)

Is this the first time its been apart?

Some time ago I was asked by a local idiot (how hard it should be to draw down the front half ) he said that the last 1/2" seemed hard when he used the impact to snug it down.

It looked alot like yours.

I guess if the tips were sharp and one caught on the split it would be forced to rotate as the front half was forced down the length of the groove looked to be simular to the length of the rings free end gap

[WATERWINGS]

The block has been run before, the intake (with notches) was on the last motor I ran,"now deceased" (built by someone else)

The gouges in the intake are on the left, if viewed from the rear.

I also have a 7 petal intake, (still trying to decide which to run) that has some of the same type gouges, but not as deep.

I'm a poor man's hot boater, most of my stuff is JUNK off of the floor, but out runs most everything around, (we don't have to many really super heavy hitters)

My best speed has only been 94.1 GPS

That will take care of 99.8% of everything around here.

You can never go back, so the faster I get the more I feel like I need to make sure my JUNK is in better shape!

[WATERWINGS]

I will put a radius on the od of the split line so they act more like a ski, but should I take the deeper groove out, or will it hurt anything?

If you have a small leak between the cyls. that will it do?

I put the sealing ring in place into the front 1/2 and shined a light on the other side of the ring, I could see some light.

[WATERWINGS]

If there is a slight leak between the cyls. what will it do?