V-king

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Anybody know this boat? A friend of mine bought it of Ebay, it Came from the La Crosse, Wi. area.He's going to restore back to new :thumbsup:395330

[eli]

Cool nice Johnny on it.

[Hot Shot Merc]

Great platform to start with:thumbsup:. Kinda looks like its a Vulture 20. Seems longer from the windshield frame back. Does the metal flake look good enough to keep and re clear or are they planning to paint?

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

He's got a lot of qualified help, 2 cousins, one owns a local Evinrude dealer in town and used to sell streams so that's his motor man, cousin' #2 builds boats in S. or N. Carolina, so that's where its going for a core and whatever else it needs. Should be a nice one when done! :thumbsup:

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Great platform to start with:thumbsup:. Kinda looks like its a Vulture 20. Seems longer from the windshield frame back. Does the metal flake look good enough to keep and re clear or are they planning to paint?
Nope she's a V-king, and yes keeping the flake, he wants to keep it as period correct as he can.

[Trimmed Out15]

I like the gearcase too

[Hot Shot Merc]

Nope she's a V-king, and yes keeping the flake, he wants to keep it as period correct as he can.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[oldschoolltv]

Nice!

[Capt.Insane-o]

Needs to go to the trailer shop for some bunks too.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

^I noticed that too

[delawarerick]

[QUOTE=Trimmed Out15;3009447]I like the gearcase too[/QUOTE
That looks like the old land and sea nose cone is it a low water cone or just a cone. I had one like that and it did not have low water pickup and the cone stopped some of the chime walk.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

As they say "Let the journey begin!"
To be continued...........:thumbsup:398151

[Da Bull]

I love Vikings. Won my first circle race in one with a stock 1977 200 Evinrude in 1978.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Anybody got an old faux wood steering wheel they want to part with?

[Capt.Insane-o]

I think I have my old ride guide wheel from my vector

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

I think I have my old ride guide wheel from my vector
let me know, thanks

[rock]

Out of all the boats I have owned the Viking is by far one of the most fun to drive. I will have another some day. I have a bunch of stuff I need to get rid of Jeff. Let me know what ya need.

Rock

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Out of all the boats I have owned the Viking is by far one of the most fun to drive. I will have another some day. I have a bunch of stuff I need to get rid of Jeff. Let me know what ya need.

Rock
My buddy Doug said he talked to ya' last night, I'm sure he's gonna need a lot of stuff, right now he's looking for the correct interior, the seats are ok, but came from Overton's.

[rock]

Doug texted me last night about the 28 RE3 and I just sent him a few pics. Hope all is well.

Rock

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

After sitting all summer, some progress, and with Carbon Fiber!421885421886421887421888

[LakeFever]

Very interesting, I was wondering about CF recores. Did you bag it? Why did you choose CF?

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

I have nothing to do with it, it's a buddy of mine.

[Capt.Insane-o]

Using carbon in an old poly boat restore is a total waste of money. Let alone with plywood. .. But like I say ....whatever floats yore boat.

[nitro_rat]

I would suggest not to stop the core at the end of the floor there. I have a V-King in the shop now built just like that. Hull suffered an impact jest ahead of the windshield and the result was a massive failure. I sat in the seat and tapped lightly on the hull just ahead of the stringer while my partner watched from underneath. He said “stop, you’re going to break through!” I would run the core all the way forward to the bow eye...

[LakeFever]

I would suggest not to stop the core at the end of the floor there. I have a V-King in the shop now built just like that. Hull suffered an impact jest ahead of the windshield and the result was a massive failure. I sat in the seat and tapped lightly on the hull just ahead of the stringer while my partner watched from underneath. He said “stop, you’re going to break through!” I would run the core all the way forward to the bow eye...



Mine has no core up front from the factory and you can EASILY wobble it. I was pretty shocked when I climbed under the deck to work on the wiring how thin it was. Much thinner than the cap. When recore time comes I think I will heed this advice and core all the way up, with glass ;) Thanks Capt.Insane-o

[W2F a V-King]

I just restored my V-King, (1979) and the core I removed went all the way up to just short of the bow eye mounting, maybe a couple feet short of that. So when I replaced it, I took the replacement core all the way back to that point. Have read many restore threads about these boats and it seems there were many variations in lay up.

[Dave S]

Stupid ?.... I have a Vking comp with full stringers....Did they core em or just solid bottom?

[nitro_rat]

MOST comps had stringers only. As W2F said there were many variations on layup!

[Dave S]

I was never a HST guy.... more SB ... or DeSilva...... what a gap.....I used to hang out a Ted Bravos shop in Bellmore..... by the cop station. Never had a stream till 12 years ago... Vector....then a V king..... the diff in the bottom blows me away. Now I want to find a good Vineuse sorry for spelling....20 footer with a cuddy........YA... the wife....

[LakeFever]

The front of the hull almost never touches the water though. Its always bow high even when cruising half or more of the boat is in the air. Maybe core up there isn't needed? I tend to overbuild things willingly sacrificing weight to gain strength but its a more delicate balance with boats so Im wondering now

[nitro_rat]

The front of the hull almost never touches the water though.

When it does it’s because of an unexpected roller or taking a wake, even cutting through moderate chop. These are the situations where most small/fast hull crashes happen.

Another important area to look at during a rebuild that I don’t see discussed much is the deck to hull joint. Some of these boats were well done from the factory, some were not. I de-capped a ‘73 Viper that took hours to cut the joint because of all the glass and resin in the seam. I also have de-capped a V-King (‘81 maybe?) that took literally 5 minutes with a battery powered sawzall once the rivets were out of the rub rail. It was only attached well at the back of the wings and one spot about a foot long at the port side of the nose! If this boat ever stuffed it would have been disaster!

[LakeFever]

I do think about that. I am fairly picky with my water by nature because I've been boating my whole life and had my share of unintended BIG air prop out of water moments in boats ranging from tin to old faithful. So I naturally keep the speed down and roll out ahead of any wakes. That said even with the best efforts there is the occasional hard hit and your right, thats when it gets tested. Ive already pounded a few with this boat going across a much larger lake than I would usually run. It was 2'+ the whole way with large boat traffic so I was hitting some 4' peaky clean cap waves that I had a hard time seeing. I know myself, I will probably core the living heck out of it when that time comes

[W2F a V-King]

The front of the hull almost never touches the water though. Its always bow high even when cruising half or more of the boat is in the air. Maybe core up there isn't needed? I tend to overbuild things willingly sacrificing weight to gain strength but its a more delicate balance with boats so Im wondering now

I believe the core adds structural integrity from bow to stern, even if it's not in a wet area when riding high. Then there's the occasional rouge wave or just busting wakes. Lots of pressure on a hull that is unseen. Added weight is ok in structural areas imo. Even setting on a trailer the core helps to keep things right.

You are correct though, some boats don't need or have a core because of a thicker hull layup and the design of the boat may not need it. I also tend to overbuild stuff and it does add weight. Easy fix to counter this.....Add more HP !! :thumbsup:

I added a section of left over core material up under the deck area in my V-King. It was thin up there and flexed a lot just walking on it. And because there was a crack in it from the previous owner up there.

[LakeFever]

I believe the core adds structural integrity from bow to stern, even if it's not in a wet area when riding high. Then there's the occasional rouge wave or just busting wakes. Lots of pressure on a hull that is unseen. Added weight is ok in structural areas imo. Even setting on a trailer the core helps to keep things right.

You are correct though, some boats don't need or have a core because of a thicker hull layup and the design of the boat may not need it. I also tend to overbuild stuff and it does add weight. Easy fix to counter this.....Add more HP !! :thumbsup:

I added a section of left over core material up under the deck area in my V-King. It was thin up there and flexed a lot just walking on it. And because there was a crack in it from the previous owner up there.

Indeed!

This thing does have a fairly rickety feel to it which is likely from this ultra thin front hull area. Im totally used to it now but at first it felt very strange compared to old faithful which is all glass no core and solid as a rock which I like. It wont be getting torn apart this year, hopefully next. I likely wont have it in the water much next summer either. Lots of life events happening in the coming months

[nitro_rat]

When jou just core up to the dash there is a very rigid section which is normally in the water. The thin section of the V can flex when not cored but that flex stops abruptly at the beginning of the core. That’s where it’s going to break...

[LakeFever]

When jou just core up to the dash there is a very rigid section which is normally in the water. The thin section of the V can flex when not cored but that flex stops abruptly at the beginning of the core. That’s where it’s going to break...

I can feel it shudder a little bit going over chop right under my feet in this area. Thanks for the tips, core to the max it is!

[tnelsmn]

Great platform to start with:thumbsup:. Kinda looks like its a Vulture 20. Seems longer from the windshield frame back. Does the metal flake look good enough to keep and re clear or are they planning to paint?

I've seen a few people mention saving the flake. Is it not possible to have flake like this redone with gel coat? I'm hoping to have my Viking gel coated after finishing the core this winter.

[nitro_rat]

Is it not possible to have flake like this redone with gel coat?

Possible but VERY time/labor/material intensive and thusly $$$$! It isn’t possible to sand the flake without destroying it so you have to do your “bodywork” first. Black gel is next. Then you have to apply the flake in “reverse” order the factory did as they laid it into the mold. Lastly you have to lay enough clear on top to “bury” the flake as it is quite large and “rough” in texture. Not many are willing to do it or even to “try!” Automotive clear will only last a few seasons before it starts to flake off.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

He's gonna redo the metal flake himself, here's a practice run :thumbsup:
423557

[Capt.Insane-o]

Awesome...it's metalflake or it's crap!

[LakeFever]

Awesome...it's metalflake or it's crap!

Haha there is truth to ths

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Another shot of the practice piece. Also he's gonna order some smaller size flakes to mix in with what he's got, the guy who's giving him the advice says it will really "pop" using various flakes.
423568

[LakeFever]

I've done some candy coats with auto before and the more coats the merrier. I used a mid coat clear its called and stepped over a base of silver mist with numerous tints and added only a little a time. I think the one job had about 30 coats by the time I was done. Mid coat clear is not activated, same as base coat. For top coat finish two medium wet coats clear, cure one day, scuff, two more medium coats, cure, polish and talk about ten foot deep shine! Oh fun days

[XstreamVking]

Keep the gun back from the surface to "blend" the flake colors better. Also some ball bearings in the cup to agitate the flake helps too. jm2cts

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Bottoms done!
428025

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

My buddy sent a pic of the flip back to right side up.......
428126
Now that he's an "expert" :D, ready for the "presentation" side!!!!
428127

[Hydrodreams]

WOOOOWEEEE!!!! Looking good!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Dave S]

Maga......mhstga......

[LakeFever]

Maga......mhstga......

You win the internet today :cheers:

[Dave S]

HeeHee.... and a wall for the transom......

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

I've been tryin' to get him to post here..........

[OBX]

Once I get this metal flake wrapped up I need to start on the interior. Any help with photos or thoughts regarding period correct upholstery and gauges would be appreciated.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Once I get this metal flake wrapped up I need to start on the interior. Any help with photos or thoughts regarding period correct upholstery and gauges would be appreciated.
The "Glitter Master" appears!!!
Umm, what does OBX mean?:confused:

[OBX]

429352429353
OBX Boatworks

[nitro_rat]

Once I get this metal flake wrapped up I need to start on the interior. Any help with photos or thoughts regarding period correct upholstery and gauges would be appreciated.

There are quite a few brochure photos at hydrostream.org. I have a few front seat shells that will need to be recovered but I bet they would be $$$ to ship!

[AZMIDLYF]

OBX also builds the Jaguar hulls right?

[rock]

Welcome to the site. Stream looks outstanding.

Rock

[OBX]

OBX also builds the Jaguar hulls right?
Yes we do, in High Point, North Carolina

[Merc 2.5]

Beautiful ride there , what the power gonna be

[OBX]

Beautiful ride there , what the power gonna be
I am restoring a 1979 Evinrude 235

[OBX]

434402434403
I am finally spraying flake on top side... Does anyone have any idea what the interior fabric was, I remember it kind of like a brushed vinyl almost like a cloth.

[Capt.Insane-o]

This man is my hero.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

https://www.screamandfly.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=423568&d=1542484703 (https://www.screamandfly.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=423568&d=1542484703):confused:

[OBX]

434442
It has the silver on it. Once I get it clear coated and buffed, I will put up some more pics.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Looks great!! :thumbsup:

[W2F a V-King]

It does look great, when the clear hits it .... It will pop up sweet. Gonna take more than a few coats of clear to level that flake, but it will look oh so sweet !!

[LakeFever]

Gorgeous!!!!

[texasvector]

that Mo Fo is BAD

[tnelsmn]

Looks awesome! Where did he source his flake? What shape and size is it? And how much did he have to use to cover the whole boat? Thanks!

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?342953-235-emblems&p=3123736#post3123736

[FLATBTM]

Looking awesome:cheers:

[tnelsmn]

434402434403
I am finally spraying flake on top side... Does anyone have any idea what the interior fabric was, I remember it kind of like a brushed vinyl almost like a cloth.

Here is an original interior from a '78 Viking. The seat bases have newer carpet, but the fabric is as it left the factory.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Okay, Doug's keepin' it a secret so I'll share :smiletest:
435662

[Hippie459MN]

Is that paint or gel? Looks amazing!

[Da Bull]

WOW! That's looks great!

[OBX]

Looks awesome! Where did he source his flake? What shape and size is it? And how much did he have to use to cover the whole boat? Thanks!

It was fairly complex process... I ended up using Custom Shop Flake, I mixed .008 with .015. Black enamel base coat, then sprayed the flake over. It took about a pound to cover both sides

[OBX]

Is that paint or gel? Looks amazing!
paint

[Hippie459MN]

paint

That is amazing!

[LakeFever]

Hows this boat doing? Got any pics of the completed project?

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

I don't think he ever finished it :(

[tnelsmn]

I don't think he ever finished it :(
Thats sad, I hate when build threads end this way.

[Da Bull]

Me to. I was really looking forward to seeing the finished project.