Bearing carrier stuck bigtime

[Bullet 20cc]

This thread is my last resort before I destroy a coned case... Driveshaft seized in lower unit while running over 2 weeks ago...was going to rebuild it but have spent the better part of 2 weeks trying to get the carrier removed and it will not budge. Here's a list of all the things I have tried already:

1. Puller has been on it since day one (2 weeks) and in a serious bind...afraid to turn it anymore or something will break, snap or strip.
2. Soaked in vinegar for 6 days straight.
3. Then soaked in Marvel Mystery oil for 7 days straight.
4. Torch/heat cycles are somewhere between 20-25 by now since I have been heating it up to 2 times per day for 2 weeks straight .
5. Mini sledge taps on the bullet have turned into mini sledge smacks in between each heat cycle.
6. Have rigged up a slide hammer to hook to my puller and have been slide hammering the puller which remains in a serious bind.
7. Been hitting the end of the bearing carrier rim inside the bullet with a large punch and mini sledge.
8. Have invented so many new and very colorful curse words.

I've never seen anything stuck like this in my life before...except for maybe some married guys. I'm about a day away from buying another case and cutting this thing in half to salvage whatever hard parts I can...and the cone of course. Unless you guys have some suggestions I haven't tried yet. It's a Bob's coned lefty Yamaha case off a 300 HPDI that has been cut down from 25" to 20" shaft. Any help would be greatly appreciated...

[LittleCharger]

Went thru the same issue a couple weeks ago with same results, ended up busting the case open. I didn't heat mine much as I figured it would weaken the case even if I got it apart.

[vnemous]

Try a 50 50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid and let it soak.

[Bullet 20cc]

Went thru the same issue a couple weeks ago with same results, ended up busting the case open. I didn't heat mine much as I figured it would weaken the case even if I got it apart.

I was thinking that too...how much more heat can this thing take before it snaps like peanut brittle. I remember we were just talking about past gearcase misfortunes and then this happens right after that...lol!

[Bullet 20cc]

Try a 50 50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid and let it soak.

Thanks vnemous for the suggestion...I will do that on the next one for sure right from the start. But don't have the patience for another week of soaking on this one.

Sweet Cobra btw...I have it's baby brother that was designed and built to resemble the Cobra...also designed by Shelby. It's a hell of a handfull to drive fast too...just like the Cobra!

[mn808gade]

I had one that the rear "ring" of carrier was still froze after much work,i drilled and broke off rear ring thus reducing friction and drilled/tapped" front" of carrier using threaded rod and old omc flywheel puller plate.good luck .the big salty strikes again !-th

[Bullet 20cc]

I had one that the rear "ring" of carrier was still froze after much work,i drilled and broke off rear ring thus reducing friction and drilled/tapped" front" of carrier using threaded rod and old omc flywheel puller plate.good luck .the big salty strikes again !-th

Thanks for that info...yes big salty is a biotch for sure! Someone else suggested by PM the destruction of the carrier instead of the case as well. They advised to destroy the rear of it exactly like you said to do and then pound the prop shaft side to side and top to bottom with a softer faced deadblow type hammer until the front of the carrier wiggles...then pull it out with puller. That suggestion is definitely on the table as of now. Put another heat cycle on it this morning and I thought I could hear it laughing at me...:mad:

[STV_Keith]

Used this method on a stuck OMC carrier a few times. Put the oil plugs back in, except for the fill plug. Put your air gun rubber tip to the fill hole and pressurize the case. Only took about 20psi to blow the OMC carrier out. Put a rag around the back OD of the case as it will blow any oil out and make a big mess (ask me how I know). Good luck.

[Bullet 20cc]

Used this method on a stuck OMC carrier a few times. Put the oil plugs back in, except for the fill plug. Put your air gun rubber tip to the fill hole and pressurize the case. Only took about 20psi to blow the OMC carrier out. Put a rag around the back OD of the case as it will blow any oil out and make a big mess (ask me how I know). Good luck.

Haha...I bet it was a mess! Thanks for that info...I haven't tried air pressure in the case yet but I will give it a shot before I start destroying stuff. This one seems like it might take more than 20 psi to move...but we'll find out!

[mn808gade]

always wanted to see how much pressure the seals would take to fail,let us know-th

[STV_Keith]

Haha...I bet it was a mess! Thanks for that info...I haven't tried air pressure in the case yet but I will give it a shot before I start destroying stuff. This one seems like it might take more than 20 psi to move...but we'll find out!

It's the little bit at the bottom that sprays out in a fine(r) mist of that nasty gear oil that's the issue. The case we "blew apart" had been sitting for 2 days with the plugs out, so it was as drained as we could get it. There is a good bit of surface area to the carrier, so it gets a lot of force from the air pressure.

[Bullet 20cc]

I'd rather spend a day cleaning up a mess rather than 2 weeks messing with this thing. Talk about a total waste of time... I'll stuff it full of rags and give the pressure and we'll see how she goes...

[Bullet 20cc]

always wanted to see how much pressure the seals would take to fail,let us know-th

Lol...well you're gonna find out.:D Of course my seals may be how I got here in the first place...

[phillnjack]

rig up a slide hammer to pull it off, a puller v a slide hammer is no contest, a slide hammer will shock it open and get past the corrosion where a puller wont.

even rig the slide up and use impact gun, air hammer to keep bashing it fast.

would bother using the heat as that will just cause the corrosion to take hold even more, got to be worth a shot.

[Bullet 20cc]

rig up a slide hammer to pull it off, a puller v a slide hammer is no contest, a slide hammer will shock it open and get past the corrosion where a puller wont.

even rig the slide up and use impact gun, air hammer to keep bashing it fast.

would bother using the heat as that will just cause the corrosion to take hold even more, got to be worth a shot.

Thanks philnjack...will take some rigging to make that but worth it not to have to start destroying stuff. Like you said it's definitely worth a shot.

Gonna give the air pressure a go while it's torqued up on the puller and then plan B the homemade slide hammer directly on the carrier. If I ever get this SOB off you guys will be the first to hear about it...

[vnemous]

Will probably here it pop over here on the east coast:D

[Bullet 20cc]

Will probably here it pop over here on the east coast:D

Lol...I hope you do!

[Capt.Insane-o]

Take two bars of some flat stock, set them over the exhaust opening, put the prop on the shaft, put the thrust washer on top, screw the nut on and tighten it. It will come out. I assume this is a Merc case.

[Bullet 20cc]

Take two bars of some flat stock, set them over the exhaust opening, put the prop on the shaft, put the thrust washer on top, screw the nut on and tighten it. It will come out. I assume this is a Merc case.

Success!!! It's out! Thanks Capt.Insane-o! I can't believe how easy this method was...with no fancy tools whatsoever! Didn't even have to torque on the prop nut...it effortlessly walked it out! Pulled out the shaft and carrier together...I couldn't believe it! I kept adding flat stock to each side...used (3) 1/4" flat stock pieces total per side and had to keep adding a washers under the prop nut and used an old prop just in case...but it was ridiculously easy!

There were a bunch of good tips on this from everyone and I really appreciate everybody's help!:thumbsup:

I took some pics while I was doing it...going to drink some now. :cheers:

[phillnjack]

that was a very good idea indeed, another very simple idea that works !!! brilliant , and glad it now out.

this is where plain old brute force and ignorance can beat a expensive tool .. Capt.Insane-o strikes again :thumbsup:

[FMP]

Haha you said Force:D

[Bullet 20cc]

that was a very good idea indeed, another very simple idea that works !!! brilliant , and glad it now out.

this is where plain old brute force and ignorance can beat a expensive tool .. Capt.Insane-o strikes again :thumbsup:

Right!? I still can't believe how easy it was. I'm sure I'll use your slide hammer advice on getting the drive shaft out. Found water intrusion at the seals under the water pump and some surface rust around the top of the pinion gear. And the drive shaft is siezed. Probably gonna put a piece of galvanized pipe over the shaft and weld a stop plate near the top of it and start smacking away. Pretty sure the drive shaft will be toast down low so already assume I'll need a new one. Everything else looks good inside...just gonna need bearings and seals and should be good to go...:thumbsup:

[bigboy]

Nice! Can the propshaft come out on the merc or do you first have to do something? Put in neutral I guess?

[Capt.Insane-o]

Something I should have mentioned, on the small ez shift Mercs pull the shift shaft out first, with cruisers and the 3 liter cases the carrier will only come out 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch or so until it bottoms out the clutch dog and the bell crank or case will break.

[noli]

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Bullet,


Please continue this thread on parts replaced, lower unit fixes, etc...


very interested to learn how lowers are fixed.



.

[Bullet 20cc]

Something I should have mentioned, on the small ez shift Mercs pull the shift shaft out first, with cruisers and the 3 liter cases the carrier will only come out 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch or so until it bottoms out the clutch dog and the bell crank or case will break.

Good point, this is a Yamaha case but also had to pull the shift shaft first since it pulled the entire shaft and carrier out as one very neat and tidy assembly...which was way better since the carrier/shaft assembly is way easier to separate and work with outside of the case.

[Bullet 20cc]

.



Bullet,


Please continue this thread on parts replaced, lower unit fixes, etc...


very interested to learn how lowers are fixed.



.

I'll do what I can...with a few more bad pics and some more lackluster commentary...:D

[One Oldman]

WOW Redneck engineering strikes again. LOL

[Varmint]

Make sure nobody pinned the carrier and covered holes with bondo and painted it, been there b4

[robaloRob]

Hi Capt. Insane-o. I have a very stuck bearing carrier, similar to Bullet. I tried your methods since nothing else was working. Unfortunately the drive shaft now spins when tightening the prop nut to the prop shaft. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks, Rob

[Aaronhl]

I am trying to get my bearing carrier out while the unit is still on the engine. I am thinking this method will not work with the unit still on the engine because it pulls the prop shaft out at the same time? The shift shaft will be in the way? Maybe I can pull it out part of the way blocking the prop and then get it out all the way after I take the lower unit off

[rock]

You must pull shift shaft. I just drilled and chiseled out a cover nut today then stripped a prop nut. Soaking overnight will try again in the morning.

Rock

[Aaronhl]

You must pull shift shaft. I just drilled and chiseled out a cover nut today then stripped a prop nut. Soaking overnight will try again in the morning.

Rock

Could I break it free about half inch or so and then remove the shift shaft? If I was able to use a puller.

[capteliminator]

Captinsane-o for the win again!! Your knowledge never ceases to amaze me, thanks for all your contributions!