View Full Version : JSRE tools back in stock s
Jay Smith
08-08-2017, 08:17 PM
Sorry for the delay guys the JSRE flywheel pullers and bore straightening tools now back in stock ....
Thanks for your patients ,
Jay @ JSRE 832 597 2603
luv2gofast
08-09-2017, 02:08 PM
Just used mine and they both work awesome.
Glasstream15
08-10-2017, 05:39 PM
I've got a JSRE Flywheel puller and it WORKS. Got a TDC dial indicator from him too. Both great.
Jay Smith
08-10-2017, 07:44 PM
Thanks guys ,
Building so many engines a year I made available the same quality tools I use to make my job a bunch easier to the guy that wants to do their own work. I find that tools that are made to do a piticular job verses a make shift one has to help with a successful and more self rewarding experience ...
Jay @ JSRE
info on bore straightening tool thanks
Jay Smith
08-10-2017, 09:35 PM
Eli, this tool was first built by Jim Ruck and was first made for the continual problem of the aluminum sleeved race engines egging loosing power . This tool is used as a "pushing" tool. All I can do is explain how I use the tool , I dial bore gauge the 3.500" bore at the 12:00 - 6:00 diminishion , then at the 9:00-3:00 points find the less than 3.500" diminishion that smaller number will indicate an egged condition I install the tool in the smaller side and slightly push the smaller number wider this as widening this or making bigger that number it will make the larger diminishion smaller reducing the egg shape , my target is 1/2 a thousand and have been very successful achieving this only a slight acceptable egg shape , if you have patients you can get VERY close to perfect , I even use it on steel sleeved engines it just takes a bit more ump..
Hope that's clear as mud and this has worked for me for years ...
Jay
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i remember jim doing this so can i do this after blocks come back from u.s chrome or i,m guessing should be done before
JCSmile
08-11-2017, 08:09 AM
Eli, this tool was first built by Jim Ruck and was first made for the continual problem of the aluminum sleeved race engines egging loosing power . This tool is used as a "pushing" tool. All I can do is explain how I use the tool , I dial bore gauge the 3.500" bore at the 12:00 - 6:00 diminishion , then at the 9:00-3:00 points find the less than 3.500" diminishion that smaller number will indicate an egged condition I install the tool in the smaller side and slightly push the smaller number wider this as widening this or making bigger that number it will make the larger diminishion smaller reducing the egg shape , my target is 1/2 a thousand and have been very successful achieving this only a slight acceptable egg shape , if you have patients you can get VERY close to perfect , I even use it on steel sleeved engines it just takes a bit more ump..
Hope that's clear as mud and this has worked for me for years ...
Jay
.
Have you ever used one on a 2.0l? I have one that has out of round bores, but I'm thinking the liner walls are so thick I won't be able to push them around
Jay Smith
08-11-2017, 10:23 AM
Sorry I only offer them in 3.500" bore BUT I have bent steel sleeved 2.5's with it with great success .
Jay
so does it matter when you do this each time you re ring i get that when my blocks come back i could do it to them ?
Jay Smith
08-12-2017, 05:09 PM
If your sending a block to US Chrome it should come back dead nut 3.500"and round , should be no need to modify their work , but i do check every bore before I assemble and I also run a ceramic special ball hone made for nick bore then make a pass with a plateau brush , IMO US and others end final hone is too abrasive and WILL shorten ring life and will cause leak down seal to be compromised early ...
Just my conclusions ,
Jay
you dont say ,my rings were gone in less than 5 hr so with that said if they hone with 220 and supposed to be 320 thats the dif
Jay Smith
08-12-2017, 09:37 PM
Eli, the information I'm going to give you is what's worked for me and that's the only information I can and do use building my motors , I feel most final hone On blocks are too rough and prematurely takes the face off rings I use a ceramic ball hone made by Goodson just for nickle bores after I use this hone I finish with a plateau brush made also by Goodson, i also ball hone steel bores and brush them too but with different composition ball hone , next I bore 99% of my steel sleeved blocks to .016"giving a motor an extra .001"of clearance I break on both types of bores with Mercury blue oil (100% petroleum oil ) on steel after break in I use penzoil XLF at 40:1 I break nick. Bores in with same oil , if motor is going to be reved over 8k I've had great luck with Red Line @32:1. IMO most premature ring wear or bad leak down numbers is due to bore preparation or the lack there of on ANYONES rings ...
Have a great week,
Jay
i asked dave to call u.s chrome and ask what grit they hone on nik, i was thinking running the side pin pistons i got from you with 39-848200A12 rings for first 100 hr what is the recomended method of staking the pins so they stay where they belong the motors rarely see 7500 as i putt around with 32 cleavers ,i just wish i was not doing this again in the summer as i would rather be boating ,thanks
Jay Smith
08-13-2017, 08:16 AM
Give me a call we will chat :
832 597 2603
M-T 9-5 cst
Jay
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