Old Inline dual ram trim limit switch/wiring R&R

[CrayzKirk]

My up trim isn't working on my 1500 however the pressing both up buttons does cause the motor to trim up. It looks like I have to take the bracket off the boat to fix this. Initially, I thought that I had put the bracket on backwards because who would design something that had the access cover screws inaccessible. Looking at another bracket, it isn't possible to mount it so the cover is accessible. The wiring is corroded and bad as well. No continuity between the wires to the switch when the motor is down.

So, is there a trick to getting to this part or do I just need to remove the bracket, replace the switch and wiring and reseal the holes in the transom?

Thanks!

Kirk S.

[CHICKENHAWK]

If the wires are all original they should probably be replaced. Clean all your contact points (terminals, switches, etc.). Check the relays, they do wear out.

What bracket are you referring to?

[CrayzKirk]

Thanks for the reply... The trim ram bracket. Starboard side. Mounts to the transom and the engine mounting bracket (the one with the big thumb screws and shaped like a J). 1973 Vintage. Trim motor mounts in boat, four hoses to the trim rams. I am using the two relay version with the three button switch. It looks like there is a single relay version which uses the relay for the up trim only. Relays seem to be fine. Hoping to find a way to get to the wiring and switch without taking the bracket off the transom and engine mounting bracket which means resealing the bolts. Hoping there is something that I have missed because it looks like the thing has to come off.

[Gmcviper]

Just don't use the trim limit switch. I have never used it and never had any issues.

[CHICKENHAWK]

If you don't have one, get yourself a Mercury Factory service manual.

Mercury part#: 90-86134-4

[CHICKENHAWK]

382293

[CrayzKirk]

Looks like I have to disassemble it anyway... My motor is a Frankenstein created from various parts of other motors. Seems that Missouri has really tightened down the regulations and is performing routine Boat Safety Inspections which mean verifying the serial number on the motor. Once that is all done, they put a sticker on your boat so they can tell if they have harassed the owner yet. Looks like I need to swap out the swivel bracket from my original motor so it matches the registration number. Or somehow get a title for my Frankenstein. When I was buying the parts, I didn't even think I would ever need a title.

Thanks for the replies; I have multiple service manuals and it appears that the swivel bracket from my original motor will swap as it has the same part number. I will replace the limit switch wiring while I have everything off the boat. I understand that it's to prevent the motor from trimming past the original clamp bracket, I just don't want to have to worry about it.

Kirk S.

[CHICKENHAWK]

Seems that Missouri has really tightened down the regulations and is performing routine Boat Safety Inspections which mean verifying the serial number on the motor. Once that is all done, they put a sticker on your boat so they can tell if they have harassed the owner yet.

That's bogus.

[CrayzKirk]

Check it yourself... I was at the lake and they were going around to all of the boats in the area. We left before they tested us. I went to the Missouri State Patrol site and they indicated that they were doing safety inspections which included verifying life jackets, safety equipment, boat registration and motor serial numbers. I hadn't checked boating regulations for years.

https://www.boat-ed.com/missouri/handbook/page/4/Safety-Inspections/

[CHICKENHAWK]

I believe you, I just think its's ridiculous.

Stupid gov't has to have their hands in everything.

[CrayzKirk]

Okay, I was mistaken. Since I have titles for 1966 and 1970 vintage midsections, I should probably get one for the 1973 and up plus the BIA with integral trim which would have made this whole process much easier. I'm just pissed at myself for not doing this a dozen years ago when I was buying up all of the inline stuff I could find.

Does anyone know if the serial plate can be changed? The parts list shows screws, maybe they were screwed in and some sort of tool was used to round the heads so the average person can't get to them.

What do people do if the swivel bracket breaks or the bushings wear out?