PM 300 oil injection problem - help?

[at100plus]

Can anyone tell me what is causing my oil from the engine mounted oil tank to run through the crank and out the exhaust???

I'm thinking the oil pump is stuck open :confused:

Do they make a kit to eliminate the oil injection? If this is the problem or not, I think I'm going to remove my oil injection.

This is the problem:

It ran fine yesterday, but this morning I saw oil coming out the exhaust. I trimmed it down and a puddle formed on the driveway. The tank under the engine hood was down to 1/4. It must have done it yesterday too cause I was docked at a friends house for like an hour on the lake. When I went to leave it wouldn't start, (as if the battery was dead). I thought it was an electrical problem, but now I realize it must have been oil in the crank keeping it from turning over.

I saw oil in the water around the boat but attributed it to winterization. I didn't realize at the time that the crank was full of oil. I finally got it started and it smoked at first but ran fine. I shot down the lake two more times, and everything was fine.
When I shut it off and started it again at the boat ramp everything was fine, light normal smoke condition.

I Didn't realize the leak until this morning. Just a little bit was coming out near the gearcase oil fill. It was clean green so at first I thought the gearcase was cracked or something. When I tilted the engine down it started to leak faster, and it came out the exhaust relieve holes above the cavitation plate too. The oil tank under the hood was down to a quarter.

and again today the crank is full and the motor won't turn over. I'm guessing the oil pump is letting the oil free flow into the crank??? Anyone ever see this problem?

Well if that is the problem or not, I still think it is going to be wise to premix from now on.

[at100plus]

I read the Mercury Hi Perf. Service manual this morning. I read through the fuel and oil system section and saw nothing in the troubleshooting about oil flowing out the exhaust.

One of the S&F members suggested to me that there are one way check valves on the oil lines that could get stuck. The only check valves I see are on that brass T fitting where the remote oil hose connects to the bottom of the resevoir at the engine.

This is all the manual tells me about the two check valves:
_________________________________________________
4 psi check valve - if oil flow to resevoir is obstructed and injection pump continues to pump oil, the 4 psi check valve will open to allow air to enter resevoir to prevent a vacuum

2 psi check valve - this valve prevents gasoline from being forced into the oil lines.

_________________________________________________

I don't think either of these things have anything to do with the excessive flow of oil. The 4 psi check valve seems to open so that the engine will get oil from the resevoir if the remote tank hose gets obstructed.

[H2OPERF]

I have never seen your problem but i would pull the pump off the block after it sits and fillls the block and see if the cavity where the pump screws on to the block is full of oil. It would have to be leaking from the actulal seal in the back of the oil pump where it is driven off the crank to do what you are saying. Oil from the pump outlet just goes into the recirc tank to mix with the fuel. If the lines on the main tank were reversed it would fill the block with oil backing up thru the air port when you shut it down but it wouldnt keep the engine tank full either unless the boat tank was slap full.You should be able to pull the plugs and determine which cylinder all the oil is puddling in.How much have you ran it since getting it together? how much oil has it used from the main tank?Dave

[at100plus]

It hasn't used any oil from the remote tank in the boat.

I only ran up and down the lake about 5 times. The oil resevoir mounted on the engine was only 1/4 full (I know it is supposed to stay full at all times). That was my first thought, that my hoses from the remote tank are reversed. I can't seem to get from the manual which one goes where. It just tells me the blue striped wire goes to the fitting just below the engine mounted oil resevoir, it doesn't say which fitting the blue connects to on the remote tank.

[at100plus]

I had the oil hoses backwards.

I'll have to go out and run it to see if the problem persists now that I switched the hoses.

[at100plus]

I'm not sure if my other problem is related. Is it possible that the crank is so full of oil that it won't turn over?

I used to work on Golf mowers and the 2 stroke Jacobsen mowers used to seize up when the carb needles stuck open filling the crank with fuel/oil

[H2OPERF]

Pull the cap with the lines off the tank look the back side, one of the lines will go to the fitting over the pickup tube going to the bottom of the tank for oil supply, the other will just go in to the cap area with no down tube thats the one for the air line from the block fitting to pressurize the tank.Also the oil line will go to the 90 deg nipple on the brass fitting on the engine not the one that goes straight.I put oil in the gas any time I disconnect any lines on an injection system (changing an engine ect. ) you dont want to be working out any air bubbles at wide open, mark a line on the tank and dont run with out oil in the gas until your positive its using oil from the boat tank. Hope this helps Dave

[H2OPERF]

Im only going on what you are saying and seeing, oil hopefully not lowerunit oil.I doubt if its locking up in the case but after it turns and pumps it into the cyl it could lock it up.I just had a weird one ,a guy brought me a motor flooding like crazy and hydro locking at start carbs were fine not overflowing ,diaphram was leaking in the fuel pump fillling one cyl with fuel. Dave

[Racemore]

So tell me about the air in the steering problem.Did it bleed out right?:confused: :cool:

[at100plus]

Lonnie the steering It worked itself out and it is very solid now. I really like the air pressurized system. It turned out to be pretty easy to bleed.


H20 - the oil is definitely not gear oil. The gear oil level is full and I changed it yesterday, it came out clean and new looking.

The 2 stroke oil is coming out behind the prop, AND out the relieve holes above the anti cavitation plate.

I'm going to go out and remove the plugs and crank it. I need to change my plugs too.

Right now, it won't turn over, it will turn a little then stop. After It does turn, more oil comes out the exhaust.

[Racemore]

Good deal on the steering.Remember to always carry a air pump.You might want to pull the plugs on your motor when it locks up and see which cylinder is loading with oil.Thats a pretty crazy situation.I know that oil injection saves money on oil,reduces smoke and idles cleaner but I just have a hard time trusting it.I mix mine with the gas.Old ironhead I guess but I'd rather pay more on the frontside than take it in the backside.:D :cool:

[at100plus]

The blue stripe on the hose is worn off on the engine side. I must have gotten them confused when I was rigging. I had to pull the hose back out of the hose kit, (and it's very tight) in order to trace it back to the remote tank.

Now I have to get the oil out that is still in the mota. I'm hoping that's why it won't turn over. I'm going out now to pull the plugs and see what I can find.

[at100plus]

Classic example of thinking the worst first. I pulled the plugs and oil came flyin out the bottom two cylinders when I cranked it.

Just got it running again :D :D :D :D :D Jumping for joy!!



No more oil leaking. Everyone can learn what happens when you cross the oil hoses now from my stupidity. Hasty.

[Balzy]

simple Mike.