Plascore core material

[XXXSTREAM]

Anyone try using a product made by plascore? It is a honeycomb core board. Wondered if this would be a good replacement for balsa core in a stream?

[tunnels]

my question is why ?? why would you want to use another core that is nothing like Balsa, and I feel is not the type of core that will stand up to the continued punishment the balsa will with out any problem . Balsa is used for a very good reason so understand that reason you get your own answer !!

[rjdubiel]

I have seen a product like that get shipped to a manufacturer in Detroit Lakes, MN. 4'X8' sheets. Maybe they were using it somewhere on the deck?

[W2F a V-King]

my question is why ?? why would you want to use another core that is nothing like Balsa, and I feel is not the type of core that will stand up to the continued punishment the balsa will with out any problem . Balsa is used for a very good reason so understand that reason you get your own answer !!

If you were to restore a small high speed boat that came with a balsa core... What material would you use for the core?

James

[tunnels]

If you were to restore a small high speed boat that came with a balsa core... What material would you use for the core?

James

Balsa ! why would you want to use anything else?

[W2F a V-King]

Balsa ! why would you want to use anything else?

Just curious what your choice would be. You do this kind of work for a living, and your opinion is of value. So there is no good choice to replace balsa core with any composite?


Thank you,
James

[XstreamVking]

So many differing opinions on core, there may never be an agreement on what is best.....I wouldn't use balsa for a row boat.....You can see the superior results of using composites for decades to come. Long after the balsa is dust.....

[W2F a V-King]

So many differing opinions on core, there may never be an agreement on what is best.....I wouldn't use balsa for a row boat.....You can see the superior results of using composites for decades to come. Long after the balsa is dust.....

Agreed, just trying to understand all the options. Cost is not the factor for a small area like the Viking. Balsa is little less than 1/2 the cost of Divinycel. I need 3 sheets of the 32"x48" to do my boat in divinycell, or almost 4 2'x4' sheets of balsa. Balsa over time will deteriorate for sure. $200 vs $100. The coosa is what is gonna hurt :( It's a lot more than wood for sure. But once done...it's DONE. :thumbsup:

I thought Tunnels didn't use wood in boat building, obviously I was wrong. I've read so many posts on this subject I forget details sometimes.:o

James

[XstreamVking]

If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some $. Coosa for the trans and stringers can'be beat. Bi-ply 0/45 glass is good for the hull. 0/90 glass is used primarily for stringers to provide longitudinal stiffness.

[olboatman]

Balsa ! why would you want to use anything else?

I'll answer that with one word....ROT!!! If I want wood in a boat I'll buy a 1936 Chris Craft. My Viper was recored with Dininycell and that was a main buying factor for me. Gary

[tunnels]

[QUOTE=W2F a V-King;2898261]Just curious what your choice would be. You do this kind of work for a living, and your opinion is of value. So there is no good choice to replace balsa core with any composite?


Thank you,
James[/QUOTE

All the man made core don't come close to plain everyday balsa not only as a material but the structure of the balsa cells man has not been able to repeat or come close ! Core cell is the only choice OF all the foams on the market that has the toughness and durability to stand the continuous thumping and pounding that happens with the hull panels the moment the boat starts to move across the water!and the faster the harder the thumping ! The CORE thickness used also has a big part to play with these small boats also, some were just 3/8" now they are 1/2 "!!

[tunnels]

[QUOTE=XstreamVking;2898293]If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some $. Coosa for the trans and stringers can'be beat. Bi-ply 0/45 glass is good for the hull. 0/90 glass is used primarily for stringers to provide longitudinal stiffness.[/QUOTE

ON A HULL THAT SMALL WHY HAVE STRINGERS ??If you use a single unidirectional from keel to chine across the top of the core you don't need stringers ! so why bother?

[Capt.Insane-o]

In 1996 I recored "ol grey" with foam and was given 20 gallons of boat yard polyester resin from a place going out of business. I was told it would fall apart, the foam is going to turn to dust, it's going to delam, the styrene is going to dissolve the foam, bla bla bla. To this day it will vibrate your teeth in your head running across a little wind chop and sound like you are in a tin shed during an epic hail storm. I couldn't tell you how many thousands of miles are underneath that boat.

There boats have stringers for a number of reasons, one of which is floor support, a second is for what most of us do with them now they are very highly stressed on a very limited amount of running surface and at times take a tremendous beating when getting out of shape or getting caught out by some surprise boat wakes or pusher barge rollers that all these pontoons and wakeboard boats leave across the lake. Suggesting leaving out an (very) important structural element of a boat your are unfamiliar with and or have zero experience around with some flim flam CSM and this and that lay up is not in the best interest of some peoples projects. /soapbox

[XstreamVking]

My old V-King is another one to prove that foam and composites are gonna last for a lifetime. May be the stiffest boat I have ever had....

[tunnels]

ok if you choose to use H-80 foam (WHAT THICKNESS)what would you use contoured or perforated sheet form and how would you stick it down ? what with and how ??

If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some

with foams always choose a higher density than you first think of not the lower !!
H-45 SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR A smallish DECK NEVER ANY SURFACE THAT GETS WALKED ON !

[XXXSTREAM]

I am with the guys trying to find alternatives to wood. There is a guy local here who uses the plascore for all kinds of interesting projects. It comes in different thicknesses and can be laminated on both sides with different kinds of glass. Stuff seems real stout, smacked with a hammer and can barely dent the stuff. Wondered if anyone had experimented with it. We did a viper with the divinicell in the past, but I have yet to see a foam that will not get saturated yet. I realize if sealed up properly this should be no problem but we all know how that seems to go! Looking to build a comp style boat out of my v king sometime soon so researching materials..

[W2F a V-King]

That's where I am at right now, planing on building a comp style stringer open floor. I think the lay ups are completely different for the hull, making them lighter overall. And the added stringers must give the hull the rigid foundation, but even they (V-King) comps came with a core laid down. I am hoping for a really light boat when done, without sacrificing strength.

It won't be as light as a real Comp V-King, but hopefully a bit lighter than a stock production one.

James

[tunnels]

I am with the guys trying to find alternatives to wood. There is a guy local here who uses the plascore for all kinds of interesting projects. It comes in different thicknesses and can be laminated on both sides with different kinds of glass. Stuff seems real stout, smacked with a hammer and can barely dent the stuff. Wondered if anyone had experimented with it. We did a viper with the divinicell in the past, but I have yet to see a foam that will not get saturated yet. I realize if sealed up properly this should be no problem but we all know how that seems to go! Looking to build a comp style boat out of my v king sometime soon so researching materials..

it is possible to build with no core , no stringers and just 3 different glasses with a little csm between each layer .The secret is in the way the glass layers are orientated within the glass stack .!

[Uncle Dave]

There is a reason that Skater, DCB, Lavey and a host of others use balsa for their standard rigs .

IF bagged or infused water can't really get to but one small section even if its been penetrated.

Balsas tensile, shear strength and modulus make the man made stuff look piss weak.

Foam core boats over about 24ft put together without a vac bag process are a dice roll as to wether you have voids in the resin/ core bond or not.

UD

[tunnels]

There is a reason that Skater, DCB, Lavey and a host of others use balsa for their standard rigs .

IF bagged or infused water can't really get to but one small section even if its been penetrated.

Balsas tensile, shear strength and modulus make the man made stuff look piss weak.

Foam core boats over about 24ft put together without a vac bag process are a dice roll as to wether you have voids in the resin/ core bond or not.

UD

yip I totally agree balsa has been round for a long time and has proven it worth !!!

[XstreamVking]

Bring me any 20 year old boat with balsa below the waterline and I will show you what rotten balsa looks like.

[tunnels]

Bring me any 20 year old boat with balsa below the waterline and I will show you what rotten balsa looks like.

Very simply caused by people not doing there job properly in the first place !! Another reason to use PEEL PLY on the last layers laid !.

[GregAdams]

H80 is too light for the running surface if you want it to last. If you are going to run it fast on it's tail, and you want good handling, put the running pad stringers in.

[tunnels]

H80 is too light for the running surface if you want it to last. If you are going to run it fast on it's tail, and you want good handling, put the running pad stringers in.

Thats part of the reason I asked which H80 foam he was going to use contoured or perforated sheet .!!!

[XstreamVking]

H-80 has been good in mine for 7 yrs. Many other lower performance boats I have built still running the gulf defect free after 20 yrs? But go to the H-120 if you feel the need....BTW they use the H-120 to core minesweepers......Very tough stuff....

[GregAdams]

I have built minehunters for the Royal Australian Navy ;)

[W2F a V-King]

it is possible to build with no core , no stringers and just 3 different glasses with a little csm between each layer .The secret is in the way the glass layers are orientated within the glass stack .!

See, I know this must be true, I haven't discovered how to do it yet. Which 3 different glasses and orientated how?

This V-King is my first restore that has a core.

Two boats similar to the V-King I did 20+ years ago were Checkmates. Early 70's models, 15' and a 16'. Both of these had no core in the hull. No stringers either. The hulls must have been thicker, or laid up in some way like Tunnels is talking about above.

This process of making a hull without stringers and core must make the boat heavier, But a more simple (faster) build than a boat with a core and stringers, why else would the core be necessary?

Interesting thread...Not trying to reinvent the wheel........Just trying to understand it.

It's easy to make a repair copying what was there that failed.

James

[XstreamVking]

You could make 2 streams with the glass and resin from one of your old checkmates.....

[XstreamVking]

I have built minehunters for the Royal Australian Navy ;)

That must have been cool... Very high tech ships!

[1BadAction]

Agreed, just trying to understand all the options. Cost is not the factor for a small area like the Viking. Balsa is little less than 1/2 the cost of Divinycel. I need 3 sheets of the 32"x48" to do my boat in divinycell, or almost 4 2'x4' sheets of balsa. Balsa over time will deteriorate for sure. $200 vs $100. The coosa is what is gonna hurt :( It's a lot more than wood for sure. But once done...it's DONE. :thumbsup:

I thought Tunnels didn't use wood in boat building, obviously I was wrong. I've read so many posts on this subject I forget details sometimes.:o

James


Take a look at https://www.corelitecomposites.com/ VERY reasonably priced compared to some of the other composites.

I've done the floors of my tunnel in the Corelite PET and the transom will go in with Corelite Board, which is a 30 or 35lb density structural composite. In my case I used the 35lb and had them make me a 2" thick sandwiched transom. Called my local contact up, told him the size, a couple weeks later I had a 4 layer thick ready made slab. Without some sort of press you'd never be able to get a transom layup this tight. The samples sold me, but when I got my part I was really impressed. I like the lightweight stuff more than the divinycell I've worked with also, Divinycell isn't bad, I just think this is a bit more durable.


End view of my transom board when it was delivered to me.

http://i.imgur.com/qIpck89.jpg

[W2F a V-King]

You could make 2 streams with the glass and resin from one of your old checkmates.....


Yes, that's my point... a stringer/cored, thin hull is as strong as a thicker hull made out of just glass. The Checkmate is not twice as heavy as a V-King. Not by a long shot. It's not as quick for other reasons besides weight.

The core in a V-King is a 32" strip down the middle. Not like the Vector that has a core running chine to chine. The Vector was not made for the weight/speed of the V-6 motors.

Would adding the glass down the middle be that much heavier than a properly bagged/infused blasa core 32" wide?

Area inside my sloppy black lines is the core in my V-King, maybe yours was different? From the sloppy arrow forward the core tapers to the bow.

357008

James

[XstreamVking]

Some guys have just added stringers and glass to the hull, deleted the floor and core. They have had no problems that I know of. A couple lays of 1708 would make it strong enough with a stringer every 12''. You might have some flex, but it would not be much...

[rjdubiel]

remember that the floor was core as well in your vking. where is sits on the sides of the hull it doubled as core like the core on the very sides of a viper above the floor.

[XstreamVking]

They did a good job with the box stringer/floor and core design I believe. I put mine back the factory way and it is very strong. The floor adds a tremendous amount of stiffness to the boat.

[rjdubiel]

stole these pics of a comp vking off facebook and not sure if this is a factory comp but you get the idea on how different the stringer set up is on a comp compared to a standard with a floor

http://i63.tinypic.com/29cpamd.png

http://i66.tinypic.com/2v1ui5y.png

[W2F a V-King]

stole these pics of a comp vking off facebook and not sure if this is a factory comp but you get the idea on how different the stringer set up is on a comp compared to a standard with a floor

http://i63.tinypic.com/29cpamd.png

http://i66.tinypic.com/2v1ui5y.png


Thank You! Those pics help a lot!!

James

[rjdubiel]

I have been told that in the pad they still run core even on a comp. I would think some kind of core in that area would be good. But you have to remember going with no core could cause issues when running in lake chop and hard hits on the hull. I am by no means an expert, remember that the most!

[W2F a V-King]

I have been told that in the pad they still run core even on a comp. I would think some kind of core in that area would be good. But you have to remember going with no core could cause issues when running in lake chop and hard hits on the hull. I am by no means an expert, remember that the most!

Yes, I read somewhere here that the pad on a comp has a 5/8 core, and 3/8 ( I think?) on either side.
I am no expert either, and thus all the questions and thoughts....

Being the fact that mine is not a comp, will building it like one make it as heavy as a stock V-King? Probably.

Comp has 4 more stringers (6 total) and a seat box made into the stringers on a lighter layup, no floor.

Doing all that on a stock production hull (minus the stock stringer box (2 stringers) and stock floor).

Betting the difference isn't much.

Man...all this thinkin has me wishing it was 5-Oclock..;)

Guess If one wants a comp, better to locate one and build it back the way they were made.

James

[rjdubiel]

Samari on this site built his vking with 3/8 core I think. He blew it over and the core was all intact, the rest of the hull was not.

[Deznuts3570]

The white vking in the pics is merc mans on here. That boat is an 06 and built by a guy down south. He built 6 of them and his was the heaviest. Let me say, this boat hasnt been babied and yes it has stress cracks but for the most part its held up unbelievably well for a comp hull. Thiat sucker is strong and i know first hand how strong it is

[Deznuts3570]

No core in those 6 boats that i know of either

[265mercman]

yess thats my boat and no core and composite transom as well no wood anyweres its strong as an ox i abuse it every weekend at the river no doubt

[265mercman]

357020

[tunnels]

i The floor adds a tremendous amount of stiffness to the boat.

yes a well made and designed floor ties the hull from twisting side to side ,for and aft and racking , it needs to be raised as high as is practical and or have a camber built into it and the whole floor well secured to the hull .

[W2F a V-King]

I contacted the people at Corelite. Filled out a questionair on their website. I asked them about the corelite board, and their corelite pet products. Told them what I was working on, they responded very fast.

I will send off for a sample of the board and PET. I am curious.

Interesting note they sent back to me:

[quote] Dear James,

Thank you for contacting CoreLite. I will be happy to assist you.

The CoreLite Board in 2” should be stiff enough for a transom. CoreLite Board is commonly used in transoms without problems and comes already sanded and ready to be fiberglassed. We recommend that you perform your own testing as well, as the structural requirements may vary from application to application.

For stringers, CoreLite Board is an excellent alternative. However, if lighter material is desired, I recommend you consider CoreLite PET.

For hulls, CoreLite PET is an excellent solution as it provides great strength for its weight at a fraction of the cost of other foam cores. However, it is important to note that there is also no foam in the world that will be able to compete to the mechanical properties of balsa wood (I guess mother nature does it best). This explains why the majority of the world’s largest boat builders still use balsa wood core (and also racing boats, like Cigarette Racing boats). Balsa should never be a problem if it used correctly during the lamination process.


If you would like to go over more details with me over the phone, we can certainly schedule a phone call sometime next week. I am happy to help. Just let me know.
You can certainly purchase a sample sheet of any of our materials. Epoxy is compatible with all of our materials.


With kind regards,

--
Giancarlo del Cioppo
Business Development Manager

Mobile: +1-305-781-1342 | Fax: +1-305-691-9094 [quote]

[tunnels]

A hull without a floor is like a kids plastic lunch box with out a lid it can be twisted very easily but with the lid on an clipped down it instantly becomes ridged !
Cats and tunnel hulls the same !floors always in and glassed before the hull is released from the mold on the ones used to make

[Capt.Insane-o]

I contacted the people at Corelite. Filled out a questionair on their website. I asked them about the corelite board, and their corelite pet products. Told them what I was working on, they responded very fast.

I will send off for a sample of the board and PET. I am curious.

Interesting note they sent back to me:

[quote] Dear James,

Thank you for contacting CoreLite. I will be happy to assist you.

The CoreLite Board in 2” should be stiff enough for a transom. CoreLite Board is commonly used in transoms without problems and comes already sanded and ready to be fiberglassed. We recommend that you perform your own testing as well, as the structural requirements may vary from application to application.

For stringers, CoreLite Board is an excellent alternative. However, if lighter material is desired, I recommend you consider CoreLite PET.

For hulls, CoreLite PET is an excellent solution as it provides great strength for its weight at a fraction of the cost of other foam cores. However, it is important to note that there is also no foam in the world that will be able to compete to the mechanical properties of balsa wood (I guess mother nature does it best). This explains why the majority of the world’s largest boat builders still use balsa wood core (and also racing boats, like Cigarette Racing boats). Balsa should never be a problem if it used correctly during the lamination process.


If you would like to go over more details with me over the phone, we can certainly schedule a phone call sometime next week. I am happy to help. Just let me know.
You can certainly purchase a sample sheet of any of our materials. Epoxy is compatible with all of our materials.


With kind regards,

--
Giancarlo del Cioppo
Business Development Manager

Mobile: +1-305-781-1342 | Fax: +1-305-691-9094 [quote]




The floor/stringers and bulkheads in my HST are the carbon/pvc foam Corelite panels. It is a wonderful product to work with. I used okoume for the transom in 45 degree laminates,

[W2F a V-King]

A hull without a floor is like a kids plastic lunch box with out a lid it can be twisted very easily but with the lid on an clipped down it instantly becomes ridged !
Cats and tunnel hulls the same !floors always in and glassed before the hull is released from the mold on the ones used to make

That's a great analogy..got a good visual from that. :thumbsup:

James

[noli]

.

If balsa wood has within it sugars and oxygen molecules, then the oxidation of the sugars will create water:

C6H12O6+6O2 → 6CO2+6H2O


even if you vacuum bag the balsa-core material, there will be sugars and oxygen left inside it.

http://biology.stackexchange.com/questions/23683/tracking-of-oxygen-molecules-in-glucose-oxidation

I would use composite materials in the core

if the boat is small enough, don't use any core at all.




.


.

[capteliminator]

Noli, not trying to argue, but i have a 1981 Eliminator Daytona which is all original and the balsa core is visible through the top layer of glass plain as day and is literally perfect. How so?
.

If balsa wood has within it sugars and oxygen molecules, then the oxidation of the sugars will create water:

C6H12O6+6O2 → 6CO2+6H2O


even if you vacuum bag the balsa-core material, there will be sugars and oxygen left inside it.

http://biology.stackexchange.com/questions/23683/tracking-of-oxygen-molecules-in-glucose-oxidation

I would use composite materials in the core

if the boat is small enough, don't use any core at all.




.


.

[tunnels]

Noli, not trying to argue, but i have a 1981 Eliminator Daytona which is all original and the balsa core is visible through the top layer of glass plain as day and is literally perfect. How so?

wow that's new !! why because someone did right for a change !!

[noli]

.

Checkout these impact tests ==> http://www.fram.nl/faq/how/SP_CoreCell_comp.pdf

"... an impacted balsa panel often shows no outward sign of damage, lulling the boat owner into thinking there is no serious damage. Yet impacts are readily transmitted from the outside skin to the inside skin, the end grain splitting parallel to the grain and causing local skin delamination ..."


http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff488/Noli1012/Composites/impact_tests/impactTests.png (http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/Noli1012/media/Composites/impact_tests/impactTests.png.html)


...thus if your floor looks like the pic below, and upon visual examination of the surface only shows no visible damage, there could be other things wrong that is not readily visible. Also, surface only inspections will show the balsa that have been embedded and dried into the resin but will not show damage below the surface-balsa-skin.

Don't get me wrong, I luv Elim boats, I'd like to own one someday. A surface-only inspection does not mean that the composite laminates are all good. It most proly is, but to be sure one has to do an invasive inspection, something that I wouldn't do...not for the purposes of these forums anyway :)

If I were to build a cored bottom, I would proly use CoreCell, as someone already mentioned

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff488/Noli1012/Eliminator/miscellaneous/balsaCoreFlooring.jpg (http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/Noli1012/media/Eliminator/miscellaneous/balsaCoreFlooring.jpg.html)

[XstreamVking]

What we forget about balsa is that it has to be dried properly before it is installed. Yacht factory I once worked at stored all the balsa and foam core in a room with a de-humidifier running 24/7.

[tunnels]

yes have seen all that sales guff for the last 25 years ! some of those photos are repeated by lots of other companies as well .

I never believe 1/2 of what you see in print and even lease told by a sales man with a smile and a order book in his hand .

I have always done my own testing of cores and different glasses that are used and proven that most is either not true or just sales bull dust ,

Have a look at number 3 photo and see how cleanly the balsa has come off the GLASS skin !!!AND WHERE IS THE RESIN PENITRATION INTO THE BALSA END GRAIN ? THERE IS NON ON ANY OF THE SAMPLES ! WHO EVER MADE THAT SAMPLE DIDNT KNOW WHAT THEY WERE DOING THATS FOR SURE!! ALL LIES !!
in all my years have never seen balsa do that never. Balsa doesn't come off any skin if its done properly
also have in all my nearly 4 years never seen balsa shear !!

DONT BELIEVE ALL YOU SEE ! WHEN MAKING SAMPLES YOU CAN BUILD SAMPLE TO DO WHAT EVER YOU WANT THEM TO DO TO PROVE A POINT!!

Many people have used balsa over long period of time and never had problems

[XstreamVking]

I did a lot of boat collision repair and re-construction. What I saw with balsa, it just breaks the outer skin and pushes the core away from the outer skin in the impact area. Balsa being saturated with resin is more solid and is therefore more likely to transmit the impacts force further from the impact site than the foams also. Foam has impact absorbing qualities, and is a softer, less resin saturated material that actually absorbs impact. The pics show what I am referring to.

[tunnels]

I did a lot of boat collision repair and re-construction. What I saw with balsa, it just breaks the outer skin and pushes the core away from the outer skin in the impact area. Balsa being saturated with resin is more solid and is therefore more likely to transmit the impacts force further from the impact site than the foams also. Foam has impact absorbing qualities, and is a softer, less resin saturated material that actually absorbs impact. The pics show what I am referring to.

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/core_materials.htm says it all !

[XstreamVking]

Yes, it shows that surveyors do not build boats.........

[tunnels]

Yes, it shows that surveyors do not build boats.........

being a surveyor is one job I could never do ! So i am into Composite forensics IS MUCH MORE INTERESTING finding the reason for the causes of problems .99.9%is bad workmanship and poor understanding by the people doing the job can then trace that back to there supervisors that most haven't got a clue what day of the week it is !

[rjdubiel]

My test panels did not break like that when I busted them up. The glass was much more reluctant to release from the balsa. But like already said, we do not know how they constructed the panels they used and I used a BFH with the test panel across 2 - 4x4's.

[tunnels]

you are right ! believe 1/2 of what you see because is all false advertising ! and as for it happening to a whole balsa panel that is a blatant lie!! even using PVA glue would stick better than what ever they used

[tb2054]

I have used it,,,worked well for us,,

[phillnjack]

How thick is the actual fibreglass skin on the cored hulls ?
what is the thickness of skin under the core and above the core ? say at middle of boat and 2 feet out from the centreline/keel area.

lets say this is on a 18ft v -hull that will take a 200hp motor ?

.

[tunnels]

How thick is the actual fibreglass skin on the cored hulls ?
what is the thickness of skin under the core and above the core ? say at middle of boat and 2 feet out from the centreline/keel area.

lets say this is on a 18ft v -hull that will take a 200hp motor ?

.

That's a very good question and I to will be very very interested in the answers you get !
There could be quite a few variables of boats with cores ,and those without, plus boats with stringers, and those without , The laminate glass will consist of chopped strand matt and woven rowing !

[W2F a V-King]

How thick is the actual fibreglass skin on the cored hulls ?
what is the thickness of skin under the core and above the core ? say at middle of boat and 2 feet out from the centreline/keel area.

lets say this is on a 18ft v -hull that will take a 200hp motor ?

.


Drilled a few 1/16" holes in mine....Curiosity got the best of me, and another member here asked me the same question. So out came the drill! These areas are getting re-glassed anyway. Inside and out.

The skin below the core is a fuzz over 3/8", so that's 10 mm. Same in all three test holes, pad center just in front of the transom, center of the V next to the pad, and up past the core was the last hole....all 10 mm.

Core was 1/2" ....Maybe 5/8... not 100% as most all of it was rotten. And swollen in some spots.

Glass covering the core was CSM, then foam filled between the core and pad, well 1/2 filled anyway.

Everywhere other than the cored area has what looks like a double layer of DB 1700 or there about, hard for me to tell with it fossilized in resin. But there is an edge that was left where the core ended and the rest of the hull continued, and it is about 3/16 to 1/4" in .

This is on a 79 V-King

James

[W2F a V-King]

Take a look at https://www.corelitecomposites.com/ VERY reasonably priced compared to some of the other composites.

I've done the floors of my tunnel in the Corelite PET and the transom will go in with Corelite Board, which is a 30 or 35lb density structural composite. In my case I used the 35lb and had them make me a 2" thick sandwiched transom. Called my local contact up, told him the size, a couple weeks later I had a 4 layer thick ready made slab. Without some sort of press you'd never be able to get a transom layup this tight. The samples sold me, but when I got my part I was really impressed. I like the lightweight stuff more than the divinycell I've worked with also, Divinycell isn't bad, I just think this is a bit more durable.

You are talking about the corelite PET in comparison to the Divinycell H80? Can it make a contoured slight bend, like a 45 degree? Like scribe one side to get it to turn? Or did you use the cut sheets?

Got my stringer set up all mocked up and ready to order the materials. Going with the same Corelite Board 2" transom and tying my stringers into the transom and motor well bottom.

Thank you,

James

[1BadAction]

You are talking about the corelite PET in comparison to the Divinycell H80? Can it make a contoured slight bend, like a 45 degree? Like scribe one side to get it to turn? Or did you use the cut sheets?

Got my stringer set up all mocked up and ready to order the materials. Going with the same Corelite Board 2" transom and tying my stringers into the transom and motor well bottom.

Thank you,

JamesIf you scribe it, it will just break right there (this is actually how I cut it, scribe lines with a razor then snap it off). It is somewhat flexible though, depending on the radius you might be able to get it down with some work. Maybe even warm it up with a heat gun then form it.

[tunnels]

If you scribe it, it will just break right there (this is actually how I cut it, scribe lines with a razor then snap it off). It is somewhat flexible though, depending on the radius you might be able to get it down with some work. Maybe even warm it up with a heat gun then form it.

There is a little trick the wrapping 18 mm thick H80 sheet core we learned when we were making racing yachts in South Korea and you could roll it round a 100mm radius or smaller without it even looking like it was going to break !! And no heat was not used !!!
WE made 16 full length sheets of bendy core for port and starboard sides that was needed for the 8 yachts we were making ! small radius one end and got bigger radius as it went aft !!
Only took me 5 minutes to understand how it could and had to be done !!very simple and very effective !!
Now that is going to make a few skeptic's raise there eyebrows and cough a whole lot and shake there heads !!:confused::cool: NO IT CANT BE DONE !! but yes It can be done !!:D
Understanding the materials you have to work with is the key to what we did !

[composites_marine]

If you were to restore a small high speed boat that came with a balsa core... What material would you use for the core?

James

Consider a balsa core. It has been used for decades with proven results and is much more cheaper than foam products (that do not provide the same strength). I get my balsa from CoreLite Composites. They have great customer service and good pricing.

[tunnels]

Consider a balsa core. It has been used for decades with proven results and is much more cheaper than foam products (that do not provide the same strength). I get my balsa from CoreLite Composites. They have great customer service and good pricing.
Makes me smile reading all these posts !! Why not use a combination of cores for your transom ! Balsa and foam or a honey comb ??!There is no need to use the same all the way across !!

[W2F a V-King]

Consider a balsa core. It has been used for decades with proven results and is much more cheaper than foam products (that do not provide the same strength). I get my balsa from CoreLite Composites. They have great customer service and good pricing.

Problem with balsa in a lot of boats is "IF' it gets wet...it's done, it will rot and get weak. It doesn't matter if it gets wet from the top side or the bottom side...wet is wet and the enemy of wood. Save for maybe teak?

"Some" of the boat manufactures do not adhere to proper glassing techniques ( read cheap and fast production= poor coverage with proper sealing ) which allows moisture to get in at some point, and over time these hulls rot.

Guessing if it properly put down and sealed properly and completely in glass with no places for moisture to get in, one would be OK. Tunnels could better address this area of proper installation of balsa.

For most boats, this may not be an issue, however on a light fast hull that could be a recipe for disaster. Especially in hulls that have floors covering the core...out of site, and out of mind, until something happens.

Tunnels, If balsa is cheaper, lighter and stronger, why bother with the composites at all ?? :confused:

James H.

[tunnels]

Problem with balsa in a lot of boats is "IF' it gets wet...it's done, it will rot and get weak. It doesn't matter if it gets wet from the top side or the bottom side...wet is wet and the enemy of wood. Save for maybe teak?

"Some" of the boat manufactures do not adhere to proper glassing techniques ( read cheap and fast production= poor coverage with proper sealing ) which allows moisture to get in at some point, and over time these hulls rot.

Guessing if it properly put down and sealed properly and completely in glass with no places for moisture to get in, one would be OK. Tunnels could better address this area of proper installation of balsa.

For most boats, this may not be an issue, however on a light fast hull that could be a recipe for disaster. Especially in hulls that have floors covering the core...out of site, and out of mind, until something happens.

Tunnels, If balsa is cheaper, lighter and stronger, why bother with the composites at all ?? :confused:

James H.

Sorry to say but any timber including teak will rot when it gets wet and is semi sealed away from the air !!

The word stronger and strong have many different interpretation's !! you can say a window is strong but when hit smashes quite easily !! A steel bar is strong but bend it ,it will break !
SAME with thick fiber glass is seen to be strong but could snap like a carrot !
Then there is flexural strength and that is a really interesting subject !! fiberglass that will bend 360 degrees and let it go just straightens out flat again and this can be done a 1000 times with no effect on the fiberglass what so ever . with the use of different types of Glass fibers Glass fibers can be manufactured to do almost anything at all !! S glass is even stronger and has way better properties than carbon fiber that to me is very highly over rated ! and has some terrible habits !!