2008 Evinrude 225 ETEC overheating

[fastcat1]

I have a 2008 Evinrude 225 ETEC which overheats within 5 minutes of being above 2000 rpm. Near idle or slightly above idle I do not get an over-heat alarm condition. The motor feels and looks like there is nothing wrong. The on-plane time feels normal.

Replaced water pump, thermostats and pressure release valve, but the overheating problem still exists. The replaced parts did not show any sign of them being defective. Because the problem continued I purchased an Evinrude diagnostic kit. The EMM shows the port side is setting off the alarm (above 185 degrees). The port side temperature is as much as 20 degrees higher then starboard side. Swapped the port and starboard head temperature sensors, but the results are the same. Removed and inspected all spark plugs for lean and possible water in cylinder. All the plugs look very similar.

What else could be causing this condition and what can I do to troubleshoot it?

[seahorse]

What were the service code numbers in EMM memory for the past 50 hours or so of running time?

Do you have a water pressure gauge or can you hook one up temporarily and compare its readings at all rpms with the factory specs?

[pointer]

Possible the O Ring seal in the water pump housing isn't sealing tight?

pointer

[fastcat1]

The EMM service code is Code 43 – PORT temp. above expected range. I do not have a water pressure gauge and the Evinrude diagnostic software does not have a read out for water pressure that I can see. We did drop the Lower Unit and re-inspect the water pump assembly.

What else can I do to troubleshoot this issue? Would an IR Temperature gun help or Compression Test?

[seahorse]

temporarily hook up an analog pressure gauge and compare specs

Use clear tubing on the EMM hose and watch for air bubbles indicating aerated water getting into the engine

[racer]

Did you replace just the impeller or complete kit? Factory OEM? If you changed the kit are you sure the housing is the correct one, no bleed hole. Does the unit have any nicks or corrosion forward of the water pick up. I just did one that had the same issue and the unit had corrosion on the leading edge, I sanded and repainted problem solved. Have you tried higher flow pick up screens? I agree water PSI is needed and the clear hose goes along way in determining your problem.

[fastcat1]

temporarily hook up an analog pressure gauge and compare specs

Will look for an analog gauge. Do you know what the normal pressure should be?


Use clear tubing on the EMM hose and watch for air bubbles indicating aerated water getting into the engine


Clear tubing to the EMM – great idea. Will do. I could also install a clear hose on the pressure release valve.

Thanks

[fastcat1]

Yes, I installed an OEM pump assembly. Everything from the pump base plate on up is new.

I will inspect the water pump pick-up.

The problem is only on the Port Side.

Thanks

[racer]

What part number kit did you use? I understand just the port side the one I mentioned above was starboard side only.

[fastcat1]

What part number kit did you use? I understand just the port side the one I mentioned above was starboard side only.

Water Pump Kit #5001595.
Do you know what the normal water pressure should be?

[racer]

That is the correct pump for your engine, all the o-rings/seals in place? I don't have a 08 book here at home but the 06 calls for a minimum of 11 psi and an 11 for 15 to 17 at 5000 rpm. I have always told my customers minimum of 15. The valve should open right around 1800 rpm you may want to also install a clear hose on the exit side of the valve to see flow and if it has air. I know you mentioned the plugs all looked good but have you run a compression? make sure to disconnect the CPS before doing so. A leaking head gasket may not show on the plug but could be allowing air into the water passage which would show on the clear hose.

[H2OPERF]

I know this doesn't have anything to do with your over-heat problem, but check your clear oil lines going to the cylinders. I have seen 2 different 2008 engines with the aft oil lines cracked leaking , they seem to be deteriorating on certain engines and no one is sure why yet or brp is not saying anyway. It Maybe a bad batch,hose from china or something but both motors were 2008. Just don't want anyone to have a failure from a $2 piece of hose, Dave

[fastcat1]

Here is the plan for this weekend:

1) I borrowed a borescope. Inspect cylinders.
2) Install clear hoses on the pressure release valve and CMM. Compare water flow, using a hose garden, between port and starboard side from the pressure valve (set RPM above 2000).
3) I borrowed an IR temp gun. Take temp measurements, with IR gun, during worm-up prior to compression test. Compare temp between port and starboard side.
4) Do a compression test. If no sign of problem, do a leak down test.

Called Evinrude tech support - they were no help. They told me to take it to a certified dealer.
Still need to get a water pressure gauge.

Thanks racer

[fastcat1]

I will inspect all of the oil line.

Thanks Dave

[baja200merk]

What boat is it on? Is this a new problem or the first time your running the engine on the boat?

Confirm the port side is overheating with the IR gun. I have seen a ficht give a false overheat (bad emm) havent seen an etec do it yet but I have got a few with weird EMM issues recently.

Rig up a water pressure gauge. You can use oil pressure, fuel pressure, boost, any gauge from the auto parts store will atleast give you an idea of whats going on.

[fastcat1]

The boat is a 23 hydra-sport center console. Started having the problem last month. Replaced a bunch of parts and still have the problem.

1) Checked the temp using an IR gun with the motor running on a hose. Both sides looked the same.
2) Did a compression test. All cylinders were from 118 to 120 psi.

At this point I do not think it is an engine problem like a blown head gasket or bad head.

1) Installed clear hoses on the bypass valve, output side, and checked function. Bypass valve open between 1800 to 2000 rpm.
2) During water testing the clear tubing show no aerated water flowing through the clear tubes.

We still had temp fault above 2000 rpm. This time we had both Port and Starboard faults.

Used the clear hose and bypassed the pressure release valve. Ran the boat and had NO alarm temp fault. The temp stabilized at 169 port and 173 degrees starboard side at 5000 rpm.

What is the normal operating temp between 4000 and 5000 rpm?

I will receive the water pressure sensor and ultra high flow water screen tomorrow. Right now the problem looks to be pressure release spring too high or low water pressure.

Thanks baja200merk

[racer]

Those temps are a bit high at 5000. Sounds like a lack of water pressure as I doubt 2 different relief valves are bad. Did you verify temp at 5k with the IR gun?

[fastcat1]

No checked the temp with IR only with the hose.

I agree – looks like low water pressure. That is the reason for the ultra high flow water screen. I did notice that one side of the water screen is broken.

Some people have had the same problem and fixed it by going to an Ultra High Flow water screen.

Thanks racer.

[baja200merk]

The factory pisser is screwed into the back of the cowl correct?

[dcarter]

Could the water passages be blocked with crud? I know when the get blocked it can cause overheat problems and the heads need to be pulled and all the water passages cleaned with vinegar or some other solvent.

[fastcat1]

Yes, pisser is in place.

these ETEC have quite a few heating issues from what I have read on other forums.

[fastcat1]

Could the water passages be blocked with crud? I know when the get blocked it can cause overheat problems and the heads need to be pulled and all the water passages cleaned with vinegar or some other solvent.

How do I check for this? The motor has around 500 hrs and very well taken care off.

[racer]

The broken screen can cause the issue you are having.

[pointer]

Are the Thermostats # 5005440, and the Thermo seals, number escapes me right now, are the ones that are installed on the flange of the thermo?

Agree 100% with Racer, it will cause the issue you are having. The big scoop intake screens do help.

pointer

[baja200merk]

You didn't instal a new transducer or hull pickup that could disturb the water going to the case?

[dcarter]

Here is some info of corrosion lining the water passages and what someone did to correct it.

http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?227938-What-liquid-is-used-to-dissolve-plugged-water-passages-in-a-outboard

[fastcat1]

Are the Thermostats # 5005440, and the Thermo seals, number escapes me right now, are the ones that are installed on the flange of the thermo?

Agree 100% with Racer, it will cause the issue you are having. The big scoop intake screens do help.


pointer

Yes 5005440 is the part number I used with new O-Rings seals.


Thanks pointer

[fastcat1]

You didn't instal a new transducer or hull pickup that could disturb the water going to the case?


No, the boat has been the same for years.

Thanks baja200merk

[fastcat1]

Here is some info of corrosion lining the water passages and what someone did to correct it.

http://forums.floridasportsman.com/showthread.php?227938-What-liquid-is-used-to-dissolve-plugged-water-passages-in-a-outboard

Thanks dcarter. Good info.

[spbutler]

I had a similar problem with a 2012 250 HO except mine was overheating around 1100 rpms. Water pump was replaced by dealer and it seemed better and also cooler at high speeds140s, a few times out then it came back again. it was also the port side that was running hotter verified with a temp gun. Dealer replaced water pump again and it was running even cooler at high speeds 130s but was still getting occasional high temps around 1100 rpms. at the end of last season I replaced the 4 hoses with clear hoses and then kept running a garden hose in every direction through the hoses to see if there was some sort of restriction,. it was hard to tell. I also poured Prestone down every which way before putting the motor away just to make sure no water was left. At the beginning of this season I left the clear hoses on and took a test ride and didn't notice any air bubbles and I wasn't having the hot temperatures either, which was in the 190s when it happened last season. So maybe all that flushing with the motor not running flushed something out. I'm not sure but I thought this all started when I did the motor flush through the flushing port. I haven't used it since and run the motor on muffs if I want to flush it. After that i did go with the high performance flow water screens. I bought the ultra high flow but thought they stuck out too far and might get hit by a stick and shatter. Problem has been good all season. So it may have been a combination of things, the second water pump did make a big difference, either the first one went bad or the install wasn't done correctly, There is an updated tech bulletin on the correct procedure for replacing the water pump. I believe it's something about pulling up on the shaft and to use sealant. The flushing did do a thorough flush I was able to make a rig so I could get full hose pressure going in each direction and pulled thermostsats to flush through on the housings. and the high flow screens must help if you looh at how small the intakes on the original screens.

Evinrude factory rep said there is a procedure to reroute the water hoses to alleviate the issue if it comes back/

[FMP]

A friend with a 135 opti has a similar issue. If he runs at 1800-2600 give or take his temp will go up to the point of alarm in a few minutes. His problem is the flow off the hull is aerated to the point of loss of water pressure. The pump is sucking too many bubbles. A slower or faster speed and all is well. He hates it , if a few boats are are for a cruise and we are in a tight area or where we are at that speed he will build up too much heat, nothing to do will the boat ahead and its prop wash.

[spbutler]

http://www.etecownersgroup.com/file?id=1355494

[racer]

Bulletin is for the water valve cracking causing an external leak. Replacement ones are the new version unless he got one left in dealer stock.

[fastcat1]

Installed a water pressure sensor, the new ultra high flow water screen and reinstalled the bypass valve. After several test run and experimenting by cutting the bypass valve we ended with a water pressure of 13 psi (minimum is 11 psi) at 5000 rpm, but the port temp was down to 156 degrees and the starboard temp was at 176 degrees. We do not get the temp alarm, but why would the starboard temp be so high now? What we have now is the opposite of what we had three weeks ago but no alarms. Could this be normal?

[baja200merk]

Did you verify the temp difference with a temp gun?

[fastcat1]

I did verify the temp with the IR, but only at idle and with the hose. I did not see any difference between the heads. We took the boat for a 20 mile round fishing trip and did not get the alarm. The current set-up is the ultra-high flow water screen and a cut the bypass spring about 30% (which we will replace). So after quite a few hours of trouble-shooting, a few hundred dollars in replacing good parts a diagnostic software kit and a water pressure sensor I still do not know what is the root cause of the problem and why we are Not getting the alarm faults. I ordered the thermo grease used on the temp sensor to replace what’s on them now. We did noticed that the grease color was noticeable different between them. I will replace the thermo grease and take it out again to see if the temperature balances out a bit better.