A 1972 Tower of Power 1150 basket case project

[Stevewatr]

Hello. New member here. A couple years ago I bought an old boat, just because I liked the look of it. When I bought it, it came with this large outboard, that looked way too big for this little boat hanging off the back. At first, based on the severely dry rotted wiring harness, the fact several shrouds were currently off, and strewn around the boat with trash, and the starter was missing, were all signs to me that I should not bother with this decrepit relic. But, after doing a little research, I found out it is a 1972 inline six, model 1150, and that these motors are known as "towers of power".
I also found they have a bit of a cult following. "What a cool sounding name" I thought, and then I started finding lots of forum threads regarding this cream puff, questions on timing them, questions on best fuel, questions on water intrusion, but also comments by many singing the praises of this tall drink of water. So I decided to take a stab at getting this old motor back on the water. Earlier this year I moved the motor down to my basement workshop so I could work on it in warmth, and at night as time allowed with the full intention of getting this motor ready for late spring. Well it's late July, and I have not even tried starting it yet, but I have come a long way. As I write this today, I plan on moving the motor out of the basement to the back yard for it's first "live fire exercise". From the beginning, I've been chronicling the ordeal on video, and created a playlist on my youtube channel. Since this website is where I kept finding a lot of good info on this motor, I decided to subscribe, and share a link to my videos in case any other "T of P" enthusiasts would like to follow along. A word of warning, I am not an outboard mechanic, not even a mechanic! So you may see things that may upset a professional, or that are just plain wrong. I do not edit out my mistakes, I usually point them out during editing, or revisit them in later episodes as I learn more about what I did wrong. Sorry about the long winded intro.

Below you'll find a link to my playlist, and also a link to episode one.

Regards,
Steve.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLV1RW-p5Beoledx3AqoLwAUO5dEI0SDHQ




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuYHOnnNtAw&list=PLV1RW-p5Beoledx3AqoLwAUO5dEI0SDHQ&index=1

[W2F a V-King]

Well you are definitely in the right forum.. This IS the place to get correct insider info on the IL6.

I have only owned one of these beauties, and may try to find one for my Vector project boat to keep it time dated correct...AND because I love the look and sound of these motors.

I will say you are very thorough as I looked at your videos. Your not just trying to fix it and move on..your going to understand it when done...:cheers:

I really like the videos of the stator break down, and analyzing it's inductance capacity. I would like to know more about that inductance tester. I bet many stators-coils, etc ( or lots of electronic components ) are tossed and replaced that might not need be.

The only part of static testing that lacks accuracy is sometimes heat and vibration are not able to be duplicated on the bench...thus requiring a test component or the WAG ( wild azz guess )

If you know how something is designed to work, the diagnosis is a lot simpler and removes guessing "most" of the time. Sometimes a WAG is necessary though...when all else fails.....:D

Good luck with the IL6 :thumbsup:

James

[Stevewatr]

Well you are definitely in the right forum.. This IS the place to get correct insider info on the IL6.

I have only owned one of these beauties, and may try to find one for my Vector project boat to keep it time dated correct...AND because I love the look and sound of these motors.

I will say you are very thorough as I looked at your videos. Your not just trying to fix it and move on..your going to understand it when done...:cheers:

I really like the videos of the stator break down, and analyzing it's inductance capacity. I would like to know more about that inductance tester. I bet many stators-coils, etc ( or lots of electronic components ) are tossed and replaced that might not need be.

The only part of static testing that lacks accuracy is sometimes heat and vibration are not able to be duplicated on the bench...thus requiring a test component or the WAG ( wild azz guess )

If you know how something is designed to work, the diagnosis is a lot simpler and removes guessing "most" of the time. Sometimes a WAG is necessary though...when all else fails.....:D

Good luck with the IL6 :thumbsup:

James

Thanks James! I know exactly what you mean about the "WAG"! I was working on the motor last night, and used an old timing light, while spinning the starter and tweaked the timing. I know once the engine is running, I'll have lots of re-tweaking to do, but for starters I going with 19-20 degrees full advance. The sticker on the motor says 23, but from reading several other comments, I see that with modern fuels, 23 degrees might melt pistons! There seems to be a difference of opinion among techs who've posted comments regarding this setting. I've seen as high as 21, and as low as 19, so I shot for 20. The advance setting at idle is the one that makes me curious. Mine is currently at 2 or 3 degrees. Many have commented that 4 or 5 is correct, but I have an Intertec book with a section on these motors that lists the advance by serial number range, and shows earlier models at around 5, and models in the range my SN falls in to be 2 degrees BTDC- TDC, or 0 to 2 degrees. Mine was set at about 2 or 3 when I got it, so I left that alone for now. Hoping to be fire it up in the back yard within a week!

Steve.

[Mark75H]

You've done well to have progressed this far with just the Intertec book. For the money it costs, you'll be served well by a real Merc manual in the future.

Carry on!

[CrayzKirk]

You've discovered the majority of the issues with the L6 of that era; wire and fuel system deterioration. The 1970-1972 1150 was unique in that it is a choked down 1970-1971 1350. This differs from the other years meaning that with a few simple upgrades to the carburetors and reed stop settings, you can coax the additional power out of the engine. The other issue that these motors had was problems with water intrusion on the exhaust side. The inner water jacket cover was prone to leaking and the baffle plate corrodes through. Checking these two things is not always easy because the use of stainless bolts on the aluminum cover means getting them apart can be problematic. The replacement parts are long No Longer Available (NLA) and are unique to this engine series. It also used the older exhaust pattern meaning that nothing newer will bolt up to the midsection.

All in all, a good reliable motor once the common issues are dealt with. One thing I would recommend on a motor that has been sitting in the elements is to open it up and check the bearings because if they have rusted, your maiden journey will be short lived and all of that hard work will be for nothing. Of course, that entails the fun of putting it all back together which there are lots of threads here detailing dropping all six pistons back into the block at once.

Good luck and good job!

Kirk S.

[Stevewatr]

You've done well to have progressed this far with just the Intertec book. For the money it costs, you'll be served well by a real Merc manual in the future.

Carry on!

Thanks. I've never worked on a motor quite like this. The way the throttle linkage and the multiple stages of the distributor work in unison to control timing advance as the throttle is opened is a really impressive bit of engineering. ....imo.

[Stevewatr]

You've discovered the majority of the issues with the L6 of that era; wire and fuel system deterioration. The 1970-1972 1150 was unique in that it is a choked down 1970-1971 1350. This differs from the other years meaning that with a few simple upgrades to the carburetors and reed stop settings, you can coax the additional power out of the engine. The other issue that these motors had was problems with water intrusion on the exhaust side. The inner water jacket cover was prone to leaking and the baffle plate corrodes through. Checking these two things is not always easy because the use of stainless bolts on the aluminum cover means getting them apart can be problematic. The replacement parts are long No Longer Available (NLA) and are unique to this engine series. It also used the older exhaust pattern meaning that nothing newer will bolt up to the midsection.

All in all, a good reliable motor once the common issues are dealt with. One thing I would recommend on a motor that has been sitting in the elements is to open it up and check the bearings because if they have rusted, your maiden journey will be short lived and all of that hard work will be for nothing. Of course, that entails the fun of putting it all back together which there are lots of threads here detailing dropping all six pistons back into the block at once.

Good luck and good job!

Kirk S.

Thanks for your input. I've read a lot about the water intrusion issues, and I've seen the special tools recommended for dropping in all six p istons and rings as an assembly. I'm crossing my fingers that it doesn't come to that. Bad enough my lower gear case is cracked!
I paid special attention to all the spark plugs when I first removed them. Only one showed slight rust. Oddly it was not #6. I read that a bad lower seal can cause water in #6. I'm going to try the initial run with the gear case off and a water supply directly to the down tube. If things look promising after that, then onto the gear case!

[Mark75H]

Thanks. I've never worked on a motor quite like this. The way the throttle linkage and the multiple stages of the distributor work in unison to control timing advance as the throttle is opened is a really impressive bit of engineering. ....imo.

A gift to you:

http://forums.iboats.com/…/173257-timing-and-sync-of-merc-i… (http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/engine-frequently-asked-questions-faq/173257-timing-and-sync-of-merc-inlines-to-1988)

[Stevewatr]

A gift to you:

http://forums.iboats.com/…/173257-timing-and-sync-of-merc-i… (http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/engine-frequently-asked-questions-faq/173257-timing-and-sync-of-merc-inlines-to-1988)

Thanks, but I already found that one. I opted to use a timing light while cranking the starter. But this is not a safe way to do it unless you know there is no risk of an accidental start. My carbs are bone dry so I was sure it wouldn't.

I'll be fueling it up for a first start attempt this week.

Steve.

[Stevewatr]

351240351241351242351243

A few pics showing where I currently stand. Last night's pooproject was rebuilding the wiring harness.

[Mark75H]

Looks good. So much fragile insulation on the old Mercs

[Stevewatr]

Looks good. So much fragile insulation on the old Mercs

Yeah, it was really bad. As I removed the electrical tape, chunks of insulation were falling off, exposing bluish green conductors throughout. Areas that were not covered by tape had long since shed their insulation for a chance to really get some fresh air. Bare wires were inter-twined with other bare wires. I't a miracle the electronics survived at all!

Luckily, as I kept cutting back towards the plug, I found that the insulation improved slightly, and I was able to leave about 1/2 to 1" of wire as a pigtail to splice new wire onto. I had to abandon the color code on a couple because I did not have brown or grey wire of the correct gage. Last night's job was removing the remnants of one of the 2 small bolts that had held the plug clamp in. Ended up have to drill it out oversize, and replaced it with a stainless 1/4-20 hex head cap screw. Fun!351351

[Stevewatr]

351900
First time in months that the old mercury outboard has been outside.

[W2F a V-King]

Don't see any smoke or water ... Your getting close !!

James

[milkdud]

Did you salvage the lower unit?

[Stevewatr]

Did you salvage the lower unit?

Hi. I'm in the process of making a tool to remove the large retaining nut.

Steve.

[W2F a V-King]

Well in an attempt to save you time (and maybe the LU housing) :thumbsup: Soaking it in some kind of penetrating oil for a few days "might" help, or some heat. But before you use heat I would drill the cover nut and take it out in sections.

...If that was a saltwater motor (or not)...and being as old as it is...and in the event it is corroded (which is likely), even if you get the nut to move, you will likely wipe any remaining usable threads in the housing negating any possibility of a rebuild/repair....
So if it wont budge with marginal effort I suggest drilling the cover nut in about 6 to 8 evenly spaced spots on the nut. There should be a stainless retainer/lock washer behind the nut, so you wont drill into the carrier...unless you really try..:o

Now you can take a screw driver or prying tool and remove the cover nut in sections from the housing with the least amount of thread damage...the cover nuts are a whole lot cheaper than the housing.

Actually I think I have a new one for an inline 6 LU I'll give you if you need it.

Good Luck :thumbsup:

[Stevewatr]

Well in an attempt to save you time (and maybe the LU housing) :thumbsup: Soaking it in some kind of penetrating oil for a few days "might" help, or some heat. But before you use heat I would drill the cover nut and take it out in sections.

...If that was a saltwater motor (or not)...and being as old as it is...and in the event it is corroded (which is likely), even if you get the nut to move, you will likely wipe any remaining usable threads in the housing negating any possibility of a rebuild/repair....
So if it wont budge with marginal effort I suggest drilling the cover nut in about 6 to 8 evenly spaced spots on the nut. There should be a stainless retainer/lock washer behind the nut, so you wont drill into the carrier...unless you really try..:o

Now you can take a screw driver or prying tool and remove the cover nut in sections from the housing with the least amount of thread damage...the cover nuts are a whole lot cheaper than the housing.

Actually I think I have a new one for an inline 6 LU I'll give you if you need it.

Good Luck :thumbsup:

Hello. Wish I had a crystal ball and could see this good advice coming. So I finished my home made tool, and last night tried to remove the nut. I did see the little locking tab that has to be bent clear, and I did soak it with PB blaster during the couple days I used to make the tool. My tool is just a collar with lugs on it, and I grab the collar to turn it with a bug old pipe wrench. I could not get good leverage in my small vise since it's not bolted down, and I wouldn't want top try too hard since I might bend or break the skeg.

So I put it on the shop floor, and tried holding it down with my foot. Still no movement. Then I tried heat......only a propane torch in fear of damaging the housing. Still no movement. I was going to lug my big vise into the shop and bolt it too my bench to hold the housing by the beefier part.

I went online and tried to find any tips, and saw references to the method you suggest above. Since they were for other models, and there were no pics of it being done, I was not sure I was reading it right. But now that you have suggested it, I'm more inclined to go that route. But before I do this, I just need clarification.

I drill holes while avoiding the threads in the housing, and this will weaken the aluminum nut enough to allow it to be pried inward towards the shaft, peeling it away from the threads, correct?

Also, won't I end up drilling into the lock washer behind it? Or is it just assumed that the nut is replaced with a new lock washer??

Thanks,

Steve.

Oh, and by all means I'm interested in that nut if you have it.

[W2F a V-King]

I drill holes while avoiding the threads in the housing, and this will weaken the aluminum nut enough to allow it to be pried inward towards the shaft, peeling it away from the threads, correct? YES

Also, won't I end up drilling into the lock washer behind it? NO, unless your persistant...it is stainless or it is on the V6 motors. You can judge your depth and be careful anyway. Or is it just assumed that the nut is replaced with a new lock washer?? No, replacement nuts don't come with that, it is reusable.

Thanks,

Steve.

Oh, and by all means I'm interested in that nut if you have it.

It's yours..pm me with your address and I'll send it out first of this week. :thumbsup:

Also, save the heating process for pulling that carrier out. It's gonna be stuck too. And a propane torch will not get enough heat quick enough in the area you need it. By the time you get enough heat with propane (IF you get enough) your area of focus is to large. :(

Acetylene and oxygen will work, but you have to be very careful heating aluminum enough to get it to expand enough to overcome the corroded bond. One minute your heating it.....and the next second it's gone.... If you are unfamiliar with this, maybe you know someone who can show you. Your gonna need the bearing carrier extraction tool to keep enough pulling force or pressure on the carrier to get it out.

Once it begins to move..keep it moving until it's free...don't stop just because it moved a hair....It's an easier job for two people, one applying the heat focused on that and the other keeping the pulling pressure on the extraction tool.

I can take a picture of mine carrier extractor and post it if you like, maybe you can use your machinist skills to fabricate one...don't think I would use a slide hammer as I know some do, unless your planning on a new carrier...JMO

HTH

James

[Stevewatr]

Thanks for the tips James. I'll give it a try. As for the heat, I do have any oxy/acetylene setup, but do not have a rosebud, only welding and cutting tips, so I worried about melting the case. PM with address on it's way.

Steve.

[Stevewatr]

The Mercury sees direct sunlight for the first time in months.


https://youtu.be/q9H5rR_Y1CA

[Stevewatr]

It's alive!!! Looks like this old mercury isn't done with life just yet

https://youtu.be/s4qbXLJfXeY

[W2F a V-King]

That's great!! :thumbsup:

Don't think you need to worry to much about excessive water pressure going into the power head, unless you have an awful lot at the hose. There is a pop-it valve ( if like the V6 motors ) that will open and purge excess pressure.

And depending how the tell tale is plumbed, you may not get that flow until the thermostats open..I have never worked on an InLine 6 so I am guessing here.

But it sure looks like you may have saved a great motor from the grave yard, or parts bin. :cheers:

James

[Mark75H]

No poppet valve, no thermostat

[Mark75H]

Dirt in the telltale exit passage is usually the problem. Resolved with a stiff piece of wire pushed up into the motor

[Stevewatr]

Dirt in the telltale exit passage is usually the problem. Resolved with a stiff piece of wire pushed up into the motor

And that's exactly what it was. Ran some wire up there and viola!

Tearing into the gear case now. Having trouble getting the lower part of the water pump housing off the case. Seems stuck on there. Didn't want to pry too hard since it's only plastic. I'd like to remove it before I weld the cracks in the case. I'm also having trouble removing the nut that holds the pinion gear on the drive shaft.

Here is video of the motor running a little longer, and me checking the timing……..2 degrees.

https://youtu.be/Q5fkNCjnzQ0

[W2F a V-King]

There are several ways to remove that pinion nut. Mine is a bit primitive, but it has always worked for me.

I mount the drive shaft in my vise sideways with soft jaw protection...(I use 2 small blocks of hard wood..hickory I think). Then rotate the housing so the opening is facing you, put your box end wrench down inside on the nut (7/8" if memory serves:o... V6 motors anyway) and rotate the housing to contact the wrench and twist the lower unit....It will loosen the nut. (On the install later, I add a small drop of red loctite to the threads)

Don't take the nut all the way off, leave it screwed on several turns.. Take a block of wood and place it on the top of the housing right up close to the drive shaft and use a large hammer and tap the wood pretty firmly. This will break the taper fit loose between the gear and shaft. Done.

(The part of leaving the nut on a few threads keeps the LU from getting loose and away from you) Careful removing the shaft, there will be a dozen or so large roller bearings to fall out...DO NOT use a magnet to collect them, unless you are going to replace them...recommended. :thumbsup:

As a side note..The inline 6 Lower Unit must have a different shifting mechanism than the V6 ones. V6 LU you need to be in neutral and the shift shaft removed to extract the prop shaft....said this to address the process of removing the bearing carrier by mounting the prop shaft in the vise and beat...er I mean...persuade the housing away from the carrier...Honestly, never tried that...guess it's because I have the carrier extraction tool...but good to know!! :thumbsup:

Also the water pump housing is just a friction fit with a large oring seal. Usually two medium size screw drivers prying up on it from opposing sides will get it to lift.

You've come a long way with this...you have a good amount of determination :cheers:

James

[Stevewatr]

Thanks James!

[W2F a V-King]

Just watched video 40, and I'm leaning towards finding a replacement LU. The broken carrier is one thing, but the server pitting I saw on the prop shaft is not good. Yea, it's likely the water that froze, broke the case, then allowed the oil to leak out and the water going in did what it does best when it gets to where it doesn't belong = Rust.

I also don't believe that is a steel sleeve inside the case. I have never done an IN LU but can't imagine that being correct. Have done V6 mers and some OMC LU's and not seen that. Doesn't mean yours doesn't..

So far...

The case needs welding... And that's ify, if the weld need be where that carrier oring rides. Not impossible, just not easy.
You need a carrier...
You need a prop shaft...
Seal kit...
Water pump....kit or complete assembly...
AND not sure what hasn't been looked at yet...likely more...I see a lot of rust.


Curious to see how it all cleans up, but a new/used LU might be your best/easiest way out.

One other thing that "KrazyKirk" mentioned in post #5 is a very real threat. The part about the engine bearings having some rust due to setting outside in the elements has a lot of merit, AND is great advice..!! :thumbsup:

You have done well getting the motor to run this far :cheers:, and it sounds good. BUT before you go any further, maybe hook it back up to the hose and let it run for a long time. Seeing as how it's a difficult motor to access a view of the rod bearings. If the crank journals are rusted/pitted your done anyway with that rotating assembly, and letting it run for a good long time on the hose "may" prove that out good or bad. If it continues to run good and no "problems/noises" you "might" be good to go?

Best option is to actually tear the motor down for inspection.

It's a gamble to guess the bearing are OK.

James

[Stevewatr]

More looks coming in the next video. I'm getting discouraged. I just can't bring myself to tear that motor open. If I run a hose to it instead of recirculation the water it should stay cool enough to run a while. How long should I run it, and at what throttle setting? Not wide open I hope!

[W2F a V-King]

The last thing I want to do is to discourage you, but to be aware of the possibilities. Up to now your out of pocket is not to bad. And the process of you working through the various challenges is remarkable for a guy who is not familiar with the motor he is working on... :cheers:.
You know some things about the IL 6 that that some don't that probably have them. I still like your analysis and diagnosis skills with the ignition system :thumbsup:.

No one has a way of knowing how long to run that motor for a prove out...that could have so many variables. Ideally it should be under load, but that option is off the table right now. And no, wide open is not good for any motor unloaded. I always chuckle when I hear someone unnecessarily "rev one up" in neutral. A good burnout is OK and a good hole shot in a boat is OK, the motor is loaded.

It is possible that the bearings are fine. No real way to tell quick and easy, with out an exploratory look see. As an easy possible help, maybe increase the oil ratio to 32:1 or so. May do nothing, but for this purpose...it won't hurt.

The line of thought for caution is I believe...If that motor sat long outside in the elements, where ever the rotating assembly came to rest when last turned off, it is likely that one or more cylinders has open ports to exhaust, or intake. This "might" allow "the elements" of outside air to dry out/bring moisture inside the motors internal parts. One reason some people cover exhaust and carb/throttle body openings when stored...outside at least. Especially one that sets long enough to dry out. "Most guys "pickle" the motors if they know they are going to be dormant for any length of time. Especially if kept outside.

Maybe another way to consider is what your plans are for the boat you got. If you are going to make it a boat to keep, then no matter what you will need to power it with something.
So if the Power trim works well, and the motor runs well enough on the hose, maybe locate a LU for it. Search the for sale section here. I would feel better buying from the group of men here on this list than eBay, but that's just my opinion.

So after that you have a known good midsection, lower unit, and run the power head and hope for the best. IF the power head dies...so be it. Those are around as well.

jmho...

My hat goes off to your sir...you are doing well !!

James

[Stevewatr]

Hello James. Thanks to your earlier advice, I was able to loosen that pinion gear nut last night! Since the season is almost over, I'm thinking I might just do the test run on the power head in the yard on a hose, then finish most of the re-assembly (just the shrouds, and some wiring), then fog the motor and put her to bed for the winter.

That way I can bide my time either finding a decent lower unit priced attractively, or start toying with the repair of my current parts.

Here is part 41 with a better look at the prop shaft:

https://youtu.be/G8DmPjgx6Mw

[W2F a V-King]

I am not aware of any sleeve for that prop shaft bearing surface, maybe for the sealing area.... But that by no means someone doesn't do it.
I think the problem lies in that shaft is a high stress area, and any welding, plasma spraying, etc. will change the hardness of the shaft.

Maybe there is a process..I don't know of any.
That LU housing really looks like it's time to give it to the wife for a planter...:eek: :leaving:

How did the drive shaft look? Another area of possible concern is where the seals ride below the water pump. And there is a "speedy Sleeve" type patch for that.

My guess is ALL the bearings are toast. That gear in the carrier is a caged ball bearing, and you can use split plates to extract the gear and bearing "should" come out as a unit...Not always,but most of the time.

James

[milkdud]

Time for a good used lower unit. I admire your willingness to fix it. But its going to be more work than its worth to fix it.

That prop shaft is shot as well. It may run for awhile but that rough surface will wear out your bearing quickly.

C

[Stevewatr]

I agree. Have not had time to hunt for one lately. I'll be posting a video showing the crack from the inside. It goes right through where the o ring seats.

[Stevewatr]

Part 42:

https://youtu.be/sopVQL-Pi7U

[milkdud]

If it were me I would look for a 2-1 gear ratio lower unit for that sized boat. The 1.78 that yours came with will be hard to find and you will have to use lower pitch props to get it to work proper on that boat. 2-1 is almost everywhere for sale. You can snag a good ready to run 2-1 1500/1150 gearcase for $250-300. And of course cheaper fixer uppers too.

[Stevewatr]

If it were me I would look for a 2-1 gear ratio lower unit for that sized boat. The 1.78 that yours came with will be hard to find and you will have to use lower pitch props to get it to work proper on that boat. 2-1 is almost everywhere for sale. You can snag a good ready to run 2-1 1500/1150 gearcase for $250-300. And of course cheaper fixer uppers too.

Thanks. I'm going to try and find something local because I'm not sure what will fit. I figure if I buy local I can bring mine to compare. Also, I've seen some that included the power trim unit and I have no clue if that'll fit my power head. I did notice that the non power trim gear case has the cam device on top of where the shift shaft enters into the case. And mine is broken.

Confusion has set in.

[Mark75H]

Thanks. I'm going to try and find something local because I'm not sure what will fit. I figure if I buy local I can bring mine to compare. Also, I've seen some that included the power trim unit and I have no clue if that'll fit my power head. I did notice that the non power trim gear case has the cam device on top of where the shift shaft enters into the case. And mine is broken.
Confusion has set in.

All inline 6 Full Gear Shift units will fit. This means anything after 1962. Power trim is an accessory that can be added to any of them. It is highly desirable.

[Stevewatr]

All inline 6 Full Gear Shift units will fit. This means anything after 1962. Power trim is an accessory that can be added to any of them. It is highly desirable.

So All I have to make sure of is the shaft length? I also noticed some drive shafts have a pin at the top.

Steve.

[Stevewatr]

Here is Part 44 where I give the motor a good test run:

https://youtu.be/VQV4KDTUmmE

[Stevewatr]

Well I scored a used gear case. It is the style with the preload pin on the drive shaft. It looks to be in decent shape, but it is a different gear ratio:

https://youtu.be/F8tIiDQxUZk

[Mark75H]

Just means you need props with an inch or two more pitch

[Karsten]

Well, I have another one that needs work if you need another project...1984 1150 IL6.

Awesome what you have accomplished......I know nothing about them.

Karsten

[W2F a V-King]

Well, I has another one that needs work if you need another project...1984 1150 IL6.

Awesome what you have accomplished......I know nothing about them.

Karsten

Wish I lived closer...I would love to dissect/repair one. My Dad had an 84 115, but I never got to work on it.

I think they look and sound cool...

[Capt.Insane-o]

The problem with the run on the stand or ear muffs is until you put them in the water with a gear case and prop, in gear under load, then is when you find out the bores are all tapered and it doesn't run worth a can of beans.

[Stevewatr]

The problem with the run on the stand or ear muffs is until you put them in the water with a gear case and prop, in gear under load, then is when you find out the bores are all tapered and it doesn't run worth a can of beans.

But i did do a compression test......

[Stevewatr]

Just means you need props with an inch or two more pitch

I can live with that. Hears hoping that is all it takes.

[Stevewatr]

Well, I have another one that needs work if you need another project...1984 1150 IL6.

Awesome what you have accomplished......I know nothing about them.

Karsten

I've been known to travel some for a good deal...but Utah?? The mrs. Would not approve.

[W2F a V-King]

I've been known to travel some for a good deal...but Utah?? The mrs. Would not approve.

Unless you made a vacation out of it and take the whole family to see the grand canyon. :thumbsup:

[W2F a V-King]

But i did do a compression test......

Actually the compression testing is just a preliminary test, should be followed up by a leak down test. The two go hand in hand.

As a side note, you will get a better picture of the leak down test if you do it an inch or less from TDC. You'll have to hold the flywheel steady as the compressed air used will try and push the piston down.
Idea being to get the rings out of the top part of ring travel.

jmho

James

[Stevewatr]

I agree with assesment that a leak down test would provide a clearer picture of motor condition. But since i already bought the gear case, I'll skip that tedt and proceed directly to the "blow it up on the water" test.

[milkdud]

I bet you will like the 2.3 gear ratio better anyway. Nice looking lower unit and hamburger. I could use both. I did the math backwards. Going from 1.78 to 2.3 means your 15 pitch prop will need to be 19p now to turn the same RPM and speed. Find a 19p.

Good luck to you.

[Stevewatr]

I bet you will like the 2.3 gear ratio better anyway. Nice looking lower unit and hamburger. I could use both. I did the math backwards. Going from 1.78 to 2.3 means your 15 pitch prop will need to be 19p now to turn the same RPM and speed. Find a 19p.

Good luck to you.

Thanks!

[Stevewatr]

Been a little while since I posted anything about this motor. In this video I decide to examine the condition of the pump impeller on my replacement gear case. Sure am glad I did! Looks like the last person in there installed the impeller housing improperly. I wonder if that's why the guy I got it from said it came of a junk powerhead?


https://youtu.be/HyKmqQIIMhI

[Stevewatr]

Part 51 is up!

https://youtu.be/BsvK13GSs_Q

[merc old school]

i love your project on the [ tower of power ] , did it run ?

[Stevewatr]

i love your project on the [ tower of power ] , did it run ?

I haven't tried it since installing the gearcase. Im hoping to try this weekend.

Steve

[Stevewatr]

Well winter has arrived in New England, so testing out the Tower of Power on the water will have to wait. This will be the last video for a little while.

In other news, I was recently given to Suzuki DT150's that need work. Should make for an interesting project down the road.


https://youtu.be/6RAMG7BrE8M

[home made tunnel]

Winter is definitely here in New England... -4 farenheit with the windchill haha.
362662

[Stevewatr]

Spring has sprung!

https://youtu.be/K_45h7hL7ig

[Stevewatr]

https://youtu.be/cFNbtiQBKoM

[Stevewatr]

https://youtu.be/ct_00SR6_R4

[Stevewatr]

This is from May. I'm a little behind on updating this thread. I couldn't figure out why the reverse latch wouldn't work. Turns out I forgot the cam!

https://youtu.be/eLARX4CWDiw

[Stevewatr]

Sorting out the boat wiring, so I can start it from the key for a change.

https://youtu.be/bKxxvvX3Zaw

[Stevewatr]

Correcting an alignment issue with the reversing latch cam.

https://youtu.be/SmZum6qZDIQ

[Stevewatr]

I finally get the reverse latch sorted out.

https://youtu.be/23HUKu5n9CI

[Stevewatr]

Tanks Alot!

https://youtu.be/Vs218v4qweI

[Capt.Insane-o]

The cool thing is if you learn on an inline six and are successful with it you can fix just about anything after. :)

[Stevewatr]

The cool thing is if you learn on an inline six and are successful with it you can fix just about anything after. :)
Thanks!

[Stevewatr]

Part 62:

https://youtu.be/8-S2SARNcdo

[Stevewatr]

Part 63:

https://youtu.be/9hBLfcme-60

[Stevewatr]

Part 64:

https://youtu.be/iOVqajXEzIk

[Stevewatr]

Part 65:

https://youtu.be/jRnIqyB-2Lg

[Stevewatr]

Part 66:

https://youtu.be/JCNJe27toDI

[specboatops]

Clean all the crap out of the splash well for gods sake !

EDIT - didn't watch till the end, you DID clean all the crap out :)

[Stevewatr]

Clean all the crap out of the splash well for gods sake !

EDIT - didn't watch till the end, you DID clean all the crap out :)

:lol, thanks for watching until the end

[W2F a V-King]

Maybe just me, but I wouldn't use a steering cable that was rusted up and you had to soak it and beat on it to free it up..... Jmo...

[Stevewatr]

Maybe just me, but I wouldn't use a steering cable that was rusted up and you had to soak it and beat on it to free it up..... Jmo...

Good point, but you would also not put an oversized outboard on the iffy transom of an undersized boat......

Steve.

[Stevewatr]

Part 67:

https://youtu.be/ZzY7MzAVp7w

[W2F a V-King]

Good point, but you would also not put an oversized outboard on the iffy transom of an undersized boat......

Steve.

True for one part of that statement....:D

I am putting a very oversized engine on an undersized light boat....BUT the transom is rock solid :thumbsup:

Have been a faithful viewer of ALL the Tower of Power video's.... Rock On..:cool:

[Stevewatr]

At long last, the day arrived when I was able to get the old Mercury out on the water!

Part 68:

https://youtu.be/5aJRrrTAFZc

[Stevewatr]

So what can I say.....
Part 69:

https://youtu.be/XEhJ5ea5pos

[Stevewatr]

Hello to everyone following my adventure in this thread. In part 70, I talk a more about what I've learned about the boat from the manufacturer.

https://youtu.be/RbwSogp7tkE

[Capt.Insane-o]

I hope you got it fired up like immediately and let it run for an hour.

[DanUmbarger]

If you haven't started it yet pull the spark plugs out and spin it over first before you try to start it...get any water out that might be in the cylinders.

[Stevewatr]

If you haven't started it yet pull the spark plugs out and spin it over first before you try to start it...get any water out that might be in the cylinders.

Hello Dan,
I was lucky. Because the motor never totaly submerged, very little, if any, water got in the cylinders. That old teleflex steering cable is the only thing that saved it from going to the bottom of the lake. Luckily it was not the style that mounts through the tilt tube lol.

Steve.

[Stevewatr]

Part 71, I find out that the wiring inside the Mercontrol is completely trashed. I'm surprised it worked at all, and was lucky it didn't short out.

https://youtu.be/kRaU00uF3l4

[Stevewatr]

In Part 72, I fire up the Mercury, and am pleased to see it appears to be fine after it's near disastrous adventure on the Old Town boat:

https://youtu.be/ncZT5MLxrn8

[Stevewatr]

So I was wandering around the world wide web and happened across this thread. I soon realized it was my thread from a few years back, and that I have not updated it in years. Long story short, i eventually got another boat to put this motor on, and after getting it trimmed best i can, was able to run it last summer and it runs great. I probably should have a larger prop on there. I went through a serious ventilation problem at first but trimming the motor all the way down seems to be working for now. Heres a link to Part 98 when I finally figured out what trim setting worked, and you can see the boat moves nicely and the roms sound good.

https://youtu.be/aZ63iKCJCRg