Stripped jet stuck in carb, now what?

[honkbert]

2003 30hp Mercury 4-stroke. I am rebuilding the carburetors. The jet (the one that sits underneath the main nozzle) is stuck on 2 of the 3 carbs, and I unfortunately have mangled both pretty good trying to unscrew them. They have slots in the top that are suppose to fit a large flathead. I've removed and clean these parts a lot before. I've never had them so stuck that the force of my unscrewing mangled the brass.

Anyways, I don't care about the jets, as they are $10 to replace. I just want them out.

Things I've tried:
(1) Letting carb cleaner spray soak in around the jet
(2) Soaking the entire upper carb in cleaner dip for 20 minutes, water rinse and air gun dry
(3) EZ-out style screw extractor, the "drill bit" wouldn't catch, just created brass dust
(4) Taking a lighter to heat up the carb housing around the jet. I didn't try very long because I was nervous about the fact that the corrosion sticking the jet in place is basically old gasoline.

Things I've been told to try:
(1) Take a Dremel and slice new slots for another flathead attempt. Not sure why this would change anything if I haven't loosened the jet.
(2) Take a propane hand blow torch and hit the housing again. Not sure if this will win me a Darwin Award or if that hidden corrosion is safely chemically inert.

Anybody got any bright ideas?

348461 348462

[eli]

i would warm the area with micro torch it looks like there is room for vise grip

[outasite]

First lay a flat piece of metal on the jet and give it a couple good raps with a hammer,then cut a new slot in the jet,then get some kind of "screwdriver " that fits the slot.Ad a good amount of heat,about as much as you can get from a propane torch,and go!!!

[honkbert]

Update: propylene torch and channel locks got it out!

[perfmarine1]

Why take the jet out in the first place. Just clean it and or reem it with a wire.

[honkbert]

Because it's also a screw-in part that holds in place the main nozzle above it. My instinct was correct, the main nozzle needed a good cleaning.

[Tiller Guy]

PB baster, heat and a very small extractor worked great for me. http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii617/blindshot75/Mobile%20Uploads/20150129_165014_zpspfjtkjw1.jpg (http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/blindshot75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150129_165014_zpspfjtkjw1.jpg.html)

[honkbert]

That's the stuff!

[Mr. Demeanor]

Glad you got it out.
For future reference, a mixture of trans fluid and acetone is the best penetrating lube.


Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40 (http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-110057-Multi-Use-Product-Spray/dp/B0083V8H0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414696527&sr=8-1&keywords=wd40): 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.