prop nut torque?

[J.R.]

what is the proper torque for the prop nut on a torque master pro max 225?

[Baja170]

Depends on the shaft size and the hub type and also prop make. Most guys here just make sure they are tight and tell you they don't check. I use a Snap-on Torque wrench myself and follow the directions. I have almost lost a prop before that the nut backed off on while driving.

For instance, a Herring prop I had called for 200'# on the nut. Most Flo-Torque call for 55, some pressed in call for 100. I am not one of the if all else fails then read the directions kinda guy. I prefer to do it to specs and not worry about it later.

[J.R.]

thx BAJA.It is a flo torque on a trophy 28 1-1/4" torque master

[Dave Strong]

55 lb/ft.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

If it has the cone shaped bushing that goes between the thrust hub and Hub. Those are 100 lb/ft

Dave

[Baja170]

If it has the cone shaped bushing that goes between the thrust hub and Hub. Those are 100 lb/ft

Dave

The ones I have that are pressed in solid hubs have directions for 100'#, the Flo-Torq ones I have are 55 at least for fat shaft. Here is a direction paper that comes with the fat shaft and small shaft Flo-Torq hubs I just got. I can't find the directions for the pressed in hub kits I got last. The nut and washers look basically the same as this shows but the torque is listed at 100#.

I guess that is why most people just forget the Torque Wrench and make it as tight as they think it needs to be honestly. Mercury makes it pretty hard to keep up on all their different hub kits. I have three different styles and a pile of parts in a bag from kits and hubs past.

[J.R.]

that is exactly what I have in the parts dept. that came with the motor

[dwilfong]

So on a small shaft Merc using a Yamaha drag prop what is needed?
The washer with the tapper that seats on the shaft tapper dose not work with the Yamaha drag prop.

[Baja170]

In those directions I posted no washers have a taper, there is one coned washer that works as a lock washer. None of them have a taper on them like the older Flo-Torq hubs.

[Dave Strong]

So on a small shaft Merc using a Yamaha drag prop what is needed?
The washer with the tapper that seats on the shaft tapper dose not work with the Yamaha drag prop.

Pic? But I would say 55.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

So on a small shaft Merc using a Yamaha drag prop what is needed?
The washer with the tapper that seats on the shaft tapper dose not work with the Yamaha drag prop.

Pic? But I would say 55.

Dave

[dwilfong]

343351343350
Here you go..............
Dose it take a special washer?

[Dave Strong]

What's the other end look like?
If your worried about the cone shaped deal between the the thrust hub and the prop, you don't have that style.pretty sure you will be fine with 55. ;)

Dave:)

[dwilfong]

343433343434
Here you go...........
So the prop just sits on the washer?
The yame prop has the 3 steps on the back side?343435This don't matter?

[Baja170]

Yes prop just sits on that at least every brand i have ever ran. Never ran a yammi prop. Those kind of back plates with the taper wear out depending on how you run your boat, the taper wears out and you have to replace them. I know people who turn them around and get a few runs out of them before replacing.

[Dave Strong]

Does it have the Merc style lock tabs on the nut?


Dave

[dwilfong]

343447343448here you go........

So will this set up work as is?

[Dave Strong]

343447343448here you go........

So will this set up work as is?

As long as the prop has places to lock the tabs into.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

343447343448here you go........

So will this set up work as is?

As long as the prop has places to lock the tabs into.

Dave

[Baja170]

:iagree: No place in the prop pr prop hub to lock those into, they will not hold the nut on.

Man I have not had those tabs for a long time.

[dwilfong]

So what do you have to use?

[Dave Strong]

Same setup as the fatshaft or like the McGuard prop locks I would assume. Never run a Yamaha prop before. Lot here do so maybe someone that does will chime in and let you know.

Dave

[StratosVT]

So on a small shaft Merc using a Yamaha drag prop what is needed?
The washer with the tapper that seats on the shaft tapper dose not work with the Yamaha drag prop.

You need one of these thrust washers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROP-HARDWARE-FOR-YAMAHA-SUZUKI-Thrust-Washer-Yamaha-63P-45987-00-00-Fits-F11-/131771535912?hash=item1eae321228

Most people I know cut the lip off because it can eventually dig into the propshaft seal as the thrust washer wears. Look around on ebay you can probably find one for $25-$30.

You'll also need a special spacer & washer for the front side. You can run the yamaha one that does not have any protection for the nut backing out or there is a Mercury/Yam adapter one where you can use the tabbed washer.

I think this is the right Mercury adapter washer for the front:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Quicksilver-Propeller-Prop-Washer-Mercury-Mercruiser-12-31211Q03-12-31211A2-/161994024430?hash=item25b798a5ee:g:9eAAAOSwuAVW1eJp&vxp=mtr

[CNC_Guy]

You need one of these thrust washers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROP-HARDWARE-FOR-YAMAHA-SUZUKI-Thrust-Washer-Yamaha-63P-45987-00-00-Fits-F11-/131771535912?hash=item1eae321228

Most people I know cut the lip off because it can eventually dig into the propshaft seal as the thrust washer wears. Look around on ebay you can probably find one for $25-$30.

You'll also need a special spacer & washer for the front side. You can run the yamaha one that does not have any protection for the nut backing out or there is a Mercury/Yam adapter one where you can use the tabbed washer.

I think this is the right Mercury adapter washer for the front:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Quicksilver-Propeller-Prop-Washer-Mercury-Mercruiser-12-31211Q03-12-31211A2-/161994024430?hash=item25b798a5ee:g:9eAAAOSwuAVW1eJp&vxp=mtr

Yes those look correct. The ones that came with my drag props look the same.

[dwilfong]

Thanks guys.
So the new thrust will let some of the splines stick out the front of the hub and the new washer will engage on the splines.
Then I use the nut and tab washer I have.
So you toque it to 55lbs then?

[Baja170]

Looks like it.

[tlwjkw]

easiest thing would be call Bblades or any hi perf prop shop and ask them ta send ya what ya need... fixes all your problems... you "should" be able ta figure out how it all goes together... go ta piece-millin' it and no tellin' what ya gonna end up with........jmo

[Dave Strong]

Thanks guys.
So the new thrust will let some of the splines stick out the front of the hub and the new washer will engage on the splines.
Then I use the nut and tab washer I have.
So you toque it to 55lbs then?

I would go 55.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

Thanks guys.
So the new thrust will let some of the splines stick out the front of the hub and the new washer will engage on the splines.
Then I use the nut and tab washer I have.
So you toque it to 55lbs then?

I would go 55.

Dave

[tlwjkw]

always thought "front" was thrust washer (which has ta be for tha yamaha) end? rear "washer" should be a spline, castle type washer that will take tha tabs from tha loc washer holding tha nut....

[StratosVT]

So you toque it to 55lbs then?

I don't know anyone who torques them. Most people just tighten to "almost" as tight as they can. You definitely want more torque when using the yamaha spacer that doesn't utilize a lock washer.

[tlwjkw]

can't believe anyone would use a deal with no way of lockin' tha nut down with tha high dollar props ya'll are runin' nowdays!!!

[Baja170]

All my stuff is Merc.... and what I have experienced is: Once you get up to high HP/Pitch non-merc props and 1" shafts even on 260/280's you loose the castle nut. i think on all pressed in hubs on fat shafts, like the old Pro ET and the couple Mazco's I have for a 300x, you get the coned washer setup and no lock nut because the prop shaft is stepped not straight like the alpha and bravo 1" That is why you do not need the big tapered washer behind the prop. They can only go on so far.

Since I have not been running a old 1" shaft Bravo 1 all the props I have run have had the newest style flo-Torque or pressed in and no castle nut as IIRC.

I over torque them and make sure the nylock nut is pretty new. I have almost lost 2 28P Cleavers on my Shadow because of running warn out first on tapered back spacers that goes behind the prop before with older pretty much worn out nuts torqued to 70#. The Castle nuts either saved my props or did not do ****. Who knows they were about halfway nut backed off and ready to say bye bye. Not again. My guess would be if your on and off the throttle a lot and your nylock lock nut is worn out, no matter how tight they are at least over 70'# like mine were those castle nuts are not going to do ****. I could be wrong.

[tlwjkw]

never seen any type castle nut used ona merc?

[whipper]

I used to torque to 55 then had one get loose 10 years ago. I have always since then tightened every type of prop flow torque or fixed to at least 70-80 and never had a problem since. 55 was a min not a maximum. Always use a Nylock also. If Im changing props often i replace nylock more often. Better safe than sorry. If you need more threads just find a washer to extend the nut a little more so you can get it to bight down. i always use a short 2x10 I leave in the boat for prop changes to hold a blade up to the foil and slowly get to torque. Never had a problem.

[Baja170]

:iagree:

1 o'clock 4' o'clock BINGO.

[Dave Strong]

If your having props come loose at 55 probably time for a new thrust hub, it's not seating correctly on the taper. When tightening on a taper always good to torque and back off then retorque 3 times.
As far as fatshaft hubs if you over torque you run the risk of the belville washer loosing it's spring tension. When this happens the nut can back off.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

If your having props come loose at 55 probably time for a new thrust hub, it's not seating correctly on the taper. When tightening on a taper always good to torque and back off then retorque 3 times.
As far as fatshaft hubs if you over torque you run the risk of the belville washer loosing it's spring tension. When this happens the nut can back off.

Dave

[90 5.0]

There is a special thrust washer and a lock tab ring for yammi drag on a small merc shaft.

I also use a nyloc nut too.

Ill try and take pics later of my set up for yammi drag prop.

[dwilfong]

There is a special thrust washer and a lock tab ring for yammi drag on a small merc shaft.

I also use a nyloc nut too.

Ill try and take pics later of my set up for yammi drag prop.


I would sure like to know what that washer is and where to get it.

[tlwjkw]

i have, ina pinch, run a thick, 3/8 or 1/2" don't remember for sure, both sides flat, merc thrust washer with no problems but tha parts ya can't change are tha spllined "brass castle washer", tabbed locking washer (normal merc), ny-loc nut...

[capteliminator]

Call performance propellers in shoddy Daisy Tennessee they have them in stock!

[tlwjkw]

there ya go.....

jus a recomendation if ya use tha yamaha thrust washer... check it often, there is a very slight difference (maybe 1*) in tha taper of merc and yamaha prop shafts......

[StratosVT]

there ya go.....

jus a recomendation if ya use tha yamaha thrust washer... check it often, there is a very slight difference (maybe 1*) in tha taper of merc and yamaha prop shafts......

Yes:thumbsup:.....I forgot about that. The Yam thrust washer's taper is very slightly off and that does cause them wallow out over time but they do last a good long time if you keep the torque on them. Some of the guys I race with do have custom made thrust washers that fit perfect but I wouldn't know how to get one.

[StratosVT]

can't believe anyone would use a deal with no way of lockin' tha nut down with tha high dollar props ya'll are runin' nowdays!!!

Well we don't use reverse much (some classes don't require it and don't even have reverse) and we remove props after daily use so it's really not a problem at all. On a lake boat that someone never removes the prop, the Merc adapter where you can use the lock washer is the way to go for sure.

[StratosVT]

can't believe anyone would use a deal with no way of lockin' tha nut down with tha high dollar props ya'll are runin' nowdays!!!

Well we don't use reverse much (some classes don't require it and don't even have reverse) and we remove props after daily use so it's really not a problem at all. On a lake boat that someone never removes the prop, the Merc adapter where you can use the lock washer is the way to go for sure.

[90 5.0]

Yes:thumbsup:.....I forgot about that. The Yam thrust washer's taper is very slightly off and that does cause them wallow out over time but they do last a good long time if you keep the torque on them. Some of the guys I race with do have custom made thrust washers that fit perfect but I wouldn't know how to get one.

I was using a yammi thrust washer , but I got one of the custom ones now. Heard the guy that was making them isn't anymore.

I mi have a ton of different props and a ton of different thrust washers and lock tab combinations. I still always run a nyloc I with them.

And I think some people on here are incorrectly calling the merc lock tab washer (I can't remeber the correct name now either LOl, ) a castle nut.

Castle or nut is like a true yammi prop shaft with the nut that an otter pin goes through.

Didnt get a chance to get to the shop tonight to snap picks will try to do tomorrow need to get my junk back together.

And like others. My drag prop goes on at the ramp and comes off at the ramp.

Only my one I ever just leave on would be an old lake prop.

[Baja170]

Yes I can't remember the name. I am talking about the spacer with tabs on it behind the nylock nut and I have one set for my Shadow the other setup I run is like the first photo of the instructions with the coned washer used as the locking source with the nylock nut.

I have not had a merc with an actual castle nut and cotter pin since my old 200 fishing motor that was on my Baja around the late 80's very early 90's.

If you look at those Flo-Torq directions I posted above, the pdf not the photo of the newer style, it shows the first two generations of flo-torq, one with a castle nut and cotter pin and the other with the thing with the locking tabs on it that none of us can remember the name (tabbed locking washer) and I incorrectly called a castle nut by mistake. The Photo I posted first is the latest generation Merc standard locking setup with the coned washer.

Dave is right about flattening the coned washer if you over tighten. I change them as much as I do my nylock nut. They lose their shape pretty easily.

My question is why has Merc made so many different ways to hold a prop on a shaft. Makes it hard and confusing for people. Only way I know is I bought full hub kits for a lot of props and got the directions with all them, so far three different types. Next time I am at the lake I will post them. Not only do they make the tabbed locking washer, they make a washer that has two arms that fit in between two bumps on the outer hub insert then have two locking tabs for the nylock nut. WTH Merc?????

[largecar91]

I know I had a Nylock fail a couple years ago and now I have a really nice 34 Hoss in the lake in front of my house. The funny thing is the thrust washer was still on the shaft but no prop and no nut.

[Baja170]

I am assuming you are talking about the tapered washer that goes behind the prop right? They do stick sometimes. I am surprised you lost a prop with that thrust washer/spacer whatever it is still on the taper. The only times I have had my nylock nuts loosen up is when the taper starts wearing out.

[whipper]

If I dont apply a little marine grease to the thrust washer that sucker needs to be poped of. Partly due to the higher torque settings perhaps? At any rate not a problem with a little grease on the shaft at the taper.

[Baja170]

If I dont apply a little marine grease to the thrust washer that sucker needs to be poped of. Partly due to the higher torque settings perhaps? At any rate not a problem with a little grease on the shaft at the taper.

I agree 100%. You ever had a nylock nut come loose without that rear behind the prop thrust washer getting worn and developing some play?

[tlwjkw]

I am assuming you are talking about the tapered washer that goes behind the prop right? They do stick sometimes. I am surprised you lost a prop with that thrust washer/spacer whatever it is still on the taper. that rear behind the prop thrust washer getting worn and developing some play?

You ever had a nylock nut come loose without that rear behind the prop thrust washer getting worn and developing some play?

??? this is what ya confusing me with..... there is no such thing as a "thrust" and/or tapered washer at tha "rear" of tha thing that have ever seen on any merc with any kinda prop.... help me out here with what ya sayin'?.. are ya callin' tha "face" or "front", (tha part that goes on first), of tha prop tha "rear"???

Merc has ta change proven stuff so they can sale new stuff... some benefit ya (fix tha hub yaself after ya buy new parts from them and/or a dealer) and some don't......

[Dave Strong]

Think he is talking about the taper that mates with the step on the prop shaft, where the thrust washer seats.???

Dave

[Dave Strong]

Think he is talking about the taper that mates with the step on the prop shaft, where the thrust washer seats.???

Dave

[tlwjkw]

"tha FRONT" of tha prop... only thing it can mean!

[Baja170]

Yes that is what I am talking about. Those go bad just like the nyloc nuts. The tighter you run them the sooner the taper turns into a hole. They are something you need to replace if you run your boat hard not just the nuts if you take off your prop a lot. When I get to the lake, I will take photos of what a worn out one looks like. Once they get really worn out, you can reverse them and get a little more run time if you don't have new. Or at least I have one reversed on my shadow but before I run it again, I have new ones to put on. I got a wave runner jerk that wants to run very close to my starboard side. Next time, he gets what he deserves and I am not saying what but you can figure it out. Ne has no hair to need conditioner for if you know what I mean.


I am talking about the spacer/thrust washer that looks brass on Merc setups that goes on the prop shaft and fits the taper BEFORE the prop goes on the shaft. You don't have those on fat shaft lowers.


When they go, no matter what is in front of your propeller on the prop shaft on small shafts that is when you are going to lose a propeller or see your prop is free on the shaft and has in/out play. Those tapered thrust washers or whatever develop into a taper to a hole over time and need replacing. At least that is what I have had happen at least 3 times. One on and I/O two on 260's with CLE small shaft lowers and a Bravo 1 small shaft lower. The fat shafts have a step in the diameter of the output shaft that negates the need for those tapered things.

[XstreamVking]

I still use the same flat thrust washer that I got in 1978 when I got my 1st cleaver prop. If they are loose then they spin upon deceleration. Could wear one out like that. Mine is Stainless... Never will use JUST a lock nut after seeing a real nice chopper a bud had come off when he was slowing down.

[Baja170]

Yep deceleration from speed is what I think kills mine as well unless my 260's are just that bad ass or my driving is just that ****ty.

If wave runners and idiots had not been invented/developed we all would be off the throttle less. I was unaware stainless ones were available. I would be interested where to get them.

[tlwjkw]

I still use the same flat thrust washer that I got in 1978 when I got my 1st cleaver prop. If they are loose then they spin upon deceleration. Could wear one out like that. Mine is Stainless... Never will use JUST a lock nut after seeing a real nice chopper a bud had come off when he was slowing down.

know lotsa folks that have done tha same as for tha ware part... only ones lost were mostly cause they forgot ta set tha tabs or wore out tab washer!!!... looked at tha stainless but never tried it... what does it do to tha face of tha prop?.. know its NOT supposed ta slip but its hard ta kept from doin' it some... when ya get lazy...:leaving:

tha only "thrust" washer is tha one that goes on first... tha rest is just hardware.... thats where ya get me confused... if ya turn one around (thrust washer) ta try an get more time outta tha thing ya deserve whatever ya get... been runnin' all kinds of this stuff for a very, very long time (1976 on tha V6, stem winders that hit way harder than a 260) and have never had an issue with any of tha hardware, except just plain ole wore out!... thrust washer included, ... which, not always, should be caught before ya lose somethin'.....only hubs takin' a dump (all kinds), hittin' **** that ain't supposed ta be there or chunkin' a blade......

[Baja170]

There are no tabs on the thrust washer or whatever it is behind the prop, first thing on the shaft.

When you change props is shallow water at an island on the lake 10 miles from where you put in sometimes you have to do what you have to do. I run through some gas. I was bitching about it today to a guy and he told me if you have to worry about the mileage you can't play. Not sure about everywhere else but 93 eth free had gone up 90 cents a gallon in the last month.

I have not lost one yet. Our lake is deep water the ramp is so steep the back of my truck is 3 feet away from the water on all my boats putting them in. No wet feet or water shoes needed. I don't have to trim up the motor at all to fire it up and unload. Downside is it makes it hard to load back up when it is side windy at the ramp.

[tlwjkw]

There are no tabs on the thrust washer or whatever it is behind the prop, first thing on the shaft.

CALF ROPE!!!!!....

guess i miss understood... thought ya said it was ta add longevity to tha washer?... sorry.

[dwilfong]

Well I talked with the guy at Performance Prop in TN. thy just use the Yame washer and a lock tab set up with a Teflon locking nut on the out side.
He is sending it my way.
BUT I got to looking at the Merc washer and slapped it in the old South Bend and gave it a whirl........
Voilà a custom spacer with the right taper on it.....................;)343599343598

SO what ya all think?????????

[dwilfong]

double post.............delet

[Baja170]

I get a lot of double posts too, just like everybody else right now. Site not our issues but soon to be fixed I have read.

That is WAY different than the Merc. I am supposed to get a ride to the lake at 6PM to go get our car that has been down there a few weeks. I will take pics of what the stock Merc's look like. Looks like you are on the right track. Good for you man!!!!

[dwilfong]

343602343603343604343605
Here are the before and after pics side by side.
The # stamped in it is 12-835467-1 http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER12-835467++1

[Baja170]

That before first pic looks like a stock Merc part. and the rusty one. That taper will wear out if you torque tight and run hard. Your new one looks WAY different. Glad you found what you need.

[dwilfong]

It is the same one. just cut it down to fit the yame prop.

[Baja170]

WOW mine are not nearly that thick I don't think.

[tlwjkw]

you need ta start with tha thick, flat on both sides thrust washer and keep tha original dia for tha three flat, machined surfaces on tha face of tha prop... tha one ya built won't last very long at all... ya got tha right idea though... spline castle washer and tabbed "nut lockin' washer", ny-loc nut and done.....

[Dave Strong]

One would think it best to have the thrust washer fully covering the 3 flats on the prop.

Dave

[dwilfong]

There is a rubber isolator in the hub so If it sits on the prop and not the center spline the isolator will not do any thing?
Do not all washers just clamp the center hub and let the prop ride on the rubber hub?

[Dave Strong]

There is a rubber isolator in the hub so If it sits on the prop and not the center spline the isolator will not do any thing?
Do not all washers just clamp the center hub and let the prop ride on the rubber hub?

No, thrust washer should be on machined surface. Rubber hub is there to break loose if you hit something. Thus the torque value of 55 lb/ft.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

There is a rubber isolator in the hub so If it sits on the prop and not the center spline the isolator will not do any thing?
Do not all washers just clamp the center hub and let the prop ride on the rubber hub?

No, thrust washer should be on machined surface. Rubber hub is there to break loose if you hit something. Thus the torque value of 55 lb/ft.

Dave

[dwilfong]

got it.
So the rubber hub pre loads the prop.
So when I torque the nut the center part with the splines dose not bottom out on the thrust washer.
So if you toque the nut to much it will load the rubber to much?

[Dave Strong]

Kind of the main normal operating force of the prop should not slip because of the thrust surface and the rubber hub keeping the prop from spinning on the hub. If you hit something the rubber will slip when the combo of the rubber hub and thrust surface overcome a set torque. Then it spins, just like the plastic FloTorque hub. Clear as mud? ;)
Sometimes it perfectly clear in my head but putting it on paper or hear , not so clear. :D

Dave

[Dave Strong]

Kind of the main normal operating force of the prop should not slip because of the thrust surface and the rubber hub keeping the prop from spinning on the hub. If you hit something the rubber will slip when the combo of the rubber hub and thrust surface overcome a set torque. Then it spins, just like the plastic FloTorque hub. Clear as mud? ;)
Sometimes it perfectly clear in my head but putting it on paper or hear , not so clear. :D

Dave

[David - WI]

There is a rubber isolator in the hub so If it sits on the prop and not the center spline the isolator will not do any thing?
Do not all washers just clamp the center hub and let the prop ride on the rubber hub?
I don't think so. Think about a surfaced prop with maybe only one blade in the water... the prop would rock back & forth on the rubber hub as each blade entered and left the water if the stepped edge of the thrust washer and splined washer didn't support it.


The thrust washer also helps to keep the propeller centered on the shaft when the soft inner prop hub fails to do so under adverse high-torque conditions.

Like the thrust washer, the spacer assists alignment of the prop to the shaft when the inner hub is unable to hold its shape, only this time at the aft end of the prop.

http://www.solas.com/newweb/propeller/tech/qa.asp

[tlwjkw]

Sometimes it perfectly clear in my head but putting it on paper or hear , not so clear. :D

Dave

don't really need ta be Dave.... jus put tha right parts in tha right place, drive it with both feet on tha floor, don't even think 'bout WHY.....

[dwilfong]

I have the stuff coming from the prop shop and will see what it is. Thy sent the yame thrust washer as this is what thy have used.
When I get it I will see if I can cut the Merc washer to work so I have the right taper for the shaft.
With the right taper it should hold the toque better.
Sorry have a hard time not thinking..........................

[Chaz]

Well now that I have read everything twice .... ;);)
Is it still lefty-loosy , righty-tighty ... :D

I didn't relize I was doin it wrong . All i gotz is a 2 x 4 with a little clip to hold it on the cavitation plate , and I karate chop one of the blades once the nut quits turnin ... :eek:

Should I copy and paste , just in case I only get one post ... :p

[XstreamVking]

Yes, the whole process is arcane.....

[tlwjkw]

Well now that I have read everything twice .... ;);)
Is it still lefty-loosy , righty-tighty ... :D

:p

only if ya know front from back... if not use a bigger hammer...............

[dwilfong]

http://www.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_606w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2013/11/04/KidsPost/Images/propeller.jpg
NO this is how you do it.................

[dwilfong]

343708Well here she be...........Just what the doctor ordered.......Thrust washer for a merc shaft and a yame prop with all the right locking system for the nut.
http://www.solas.com/newweb/propeller/products/access_for.asp

[XstreamVking]

What torque do you turn that assembly to? :D:thumbsup:

[Baja170]

Good for you.:cheers: Be glad you can still use that locking washer with the tabs on it.

Some of us have to count on the coned washer that can't handle the torque we need basically more than a few times tightening them. Any of you guys having to use the coned washer setup for fat shafts ever use two of them?

[dwilfong]

What torque do you turn that assembly to? :D:thumbsup:
O crap is that what this all started as..................LOL
55 do I here 60 ..........60 do I here 65........65 do I here 70...........75 do I here 80..........80 going once.......going twice.......

[dwilfong]

OK by the book it states tighten to a minimum of 55 ft lbs then bend down the tabs if at least 3 do not line up tighten till thy do.

[Baja170]

How many HP is going to be driving it and what type of hull again. Sorry don't have glasses to read from the beginning. If it is a hull that is going to be loading and unloading the prop a lot, I would go at least 65 myself.

[dwilfong]

as much HP as I can get out of a 2.5 on a 450lb moded Vector I am rigging.

[tlwjkw]

when ya think its tight turn it a tad more ta get tha tabs lined up and run tha **** out of it!!!!!

[dwilfong]

when ya think its tight turn it a tad more ta get tha tabs lined up and run tha **** out of it!!!!!
Ya now we are talking.....................

[Baja170]

Sounds like it is going to be a challenge to drive. Awesome!!!!! Have fun.

[Markus]

Yes:thumbsup:.....I forgot about that. The Yam thrust washer's taper is very slightly off and that does cause them wallow out over time but they do last a good long time if you keep the torque on them. Some of the guys I race with do have custom made thrust washers that fit perfect but I wouldn't know how to get one.

Some prop shop (in Texas, I believe) sells them.

[Markus]

Drill a hole for a cotter pin through the prop shaft. Ideally use a castle nut (like on a Yamaha lower). Even without a castle nut, a cotter pin just behind the prop nut will keep the nut from walking off the shaft.

[dwilfong]

Some prop shop (in Texas, I believe) sells them.
The kit from solas has the right washer in it for the merc tapper.

[XstreamVking]

Knew a guy that drilled and tapped his prop loc-nut for an allen head set screw to prevent the nut from backing off. Seemed to work well. He was using two prop washers to move the prop back on the shaft and no room for a tab washer assembly.

[dwilfong]

Knew a guy that drilled and tapped his prop loc-nut for an allen head set screw to prevent the nut from backing off. Seemed to work well. He was using two prop washers to move the prop back on the shaft and no room for a tab washer assembly.
That sounds like a very good idea. Gust need to put a small nylon plug in the hole first so as to not mess the treads on the shaft up.