Are they serious with this price...?

[FasterthanU]

I need to replace the tie rod ends at either end of my tie bar, so I emailed Latham for replacements (Latham Steering on the boat now). This is the response I got...

Please call our sales office at 1-800- (tel:1-800-422-7267)***-**** to go over your specific marine application in more detail. With more detailed information about your specific boat & steering hardware the more accurate our quote can be.

The RDEN-6033 have a current list cost of $276.06 each. The jam nuts JNUT-6042 have a current list cost of $7.73 each.

Please review all of this information and contact us with any more questions. Thank you for your inquiry!

567.58 TO REPLACE MY TIE ROD ENDS? :nonod:

KE Performance has them for 61.99

Am I missing something? Is the part number wrong, its just a 5/8-18 Tie Rod End. Is there some huge jump in quality from the standard to HD tie rods?

[2jz]

Yes sir their serious . thats the reason ive been putting off replacing mine with clevis joints. Thx for the info on ke performance i see they have a 1" tie bar with clevis joints that might work for me.

[leaky]

Can you take a picture of what you've got? Do they look like this?

You may have a much fancier tie bar than me, mine is really just 1/2-20 threaded rod with a piece of pipe that slips over it to make it stronger, and the tie rod ends thread on there. But I did go through this recently and found stainless ones that were actually designed for automotive/racing/custom-applications, that were much heavier duty than my originals, at like $50/pair/shipped through Summit Racing versus like $120/each for the ones that fail in a few years. I remember they had other sizes too, for larger or smaller bars and eyes.
340032
Jon

[leaky]

I guess something to add along those lines - if I ever needed another tie bar, for sure I wouldn't even buy a tie bar, I'd buy the pipe, the threaded rod, and the ends, at like $100 on the top end instead of $300. You can probably do that if it's the same sort of setup. I also add a larger washer on top of the bolt that threads into the steering bar on the engines, such that if the ball point fails my steering can't fall apart - what I was sold originally would allow the slave engine to just flail around if the ball joint every came apart, which eventually they did but luckily the washer I put on there kept it all together until I noticed.

[baja200merk]

Thats nuts. Probably cause they are "marine" :rolleyes:

[jpf091959]

I went through the same thing with the tie bar. I ended up going to a local machine shop and had one made for $250. I picked out a piece of solid SS rod 1 1/4" in Diameter. They threaded it for my spherical ends and wrench flats. worked out great.

[Chaz]

After you machine a slab of 316L ( aircraft , marine , food service , laboratory grade ) let me know how it works out ..:eek:

[jpf091959]

I run twin 300xs and have been running it for two years, no issues. I have to think the SS tie bar is much stronger than the Aluminum in the mid-section and the mids hold up well. I didn't weigh it but by feel it was pretty close to my older setup.

Chaz, I love what you have done with your setups. Pretty cool.


After you machine a slab of 316L ( aircraft , marine , food service , laboratory grade ) let me know how it works out ..:eek:

[H2OPERF]

Im not sure what you have but if they the are mil spec aircraft NHBB brand 440 stainless they are expensive as hell, go on the nhbb web site figure out which one u need and check ebay you may luck out on some. I found two for my string steering pulleys on there, still paid about 100 each. You can buy some that look really close from china butt.... who knows what they are made from. Dave

[H2OPERF]

Are they 5/8 both sides? nhbb P/N for 5/8 shank w-3/4 eye ARHT10ECR R/H thread,arhtl l/h these are about the best you can buy for rod ends.