View Full Version : epoxy torque tabs
stv92
09-05-2014, 07:06 AM
What you guys think.
Boat stv with 260hp center horn.
Redoing the nose cown on a 200 lower.
Just wondering if anyone has made a torque tab out of west systems epoxy.
Since I am playing with forming the lower I was wondering if I can just build up a tab on the skeg at the same time.
Or should I just buy and install one ??
Always nice asking questions on this site. Great guys :)
Thanks Jeff
XstreamVking
09-05-2014, 07:28 AM
Getting more popular to just use some epoxy. Prep well and should be good to go. Doing one myself with epoxy. Removed the alum one.....
baja200merk
09-05-2014, 08:00 AM
Been doing it for years with no issues. Even in salt water. Just rough up the edge of the skeg with 40 grit clean it and stick some JB stick on there. I hit something hard enouugh to take a chunk out of my skeg and it nicked the tab but its still held on strong.
stv92
09-05-2014, 08:13 AM
JB stick ??
never heard of it, car parts store?
Was just going to apply with West Systems.
add a little filler any apply :)
Will it work with west systems epoxy??
stv92
09-05-2014, 08:27 AM
JB stick, easy to find :)
which would be better, JB or West systems??
thanks again,,
West System will require some microfibers or other thickening agent to allow you to build it up without a mold.
Marine-Tex epoxy would be excellent for this purpose. It doesn't have any water-permeable fillers such as Talc like some others (such as Bondo) tend to use. Bondo will soak up water and swell up from its original shape, with a weakening bond. I'm not sure what kind of fillers they use in JB Weld.
Mr. Demeanor
09-05-2014, 08:37 AM
Been using PC7 epoxy. Its very thick so you could probably do one without removing the lower unit. If your lower unit is bare aluminum, I just got some MetalSet aluminum epoxy that matches the aluminum pretty close.
baja200merk
09-05-2014, 08:50 AM
JB stick can be found at most auto parts stores. Quick steel makes an epoxy stick also. Works great
Davey W
09-05-2014, 04:05 PM
305419305420 mine i just finished,JB slow weld with some stainless rivets, i counter sunk the rivets it will never come off ,almost ready for paint,Oh its a Bobs.
texasvector
09-05-2014, 04:13 PM
X2 for marine tex (grey) and pc 7
Have no issues with either holding
Pc7 a tad bit easier to sand and shape
ive learned my lesson with trying to make bonds stick to gear casegear case:rolleyes:
Mr. Demeanor
09-05-2014, 11:52 PM
When PC7 starts to cure you can do a lot of shaping almost to where you wont need to sand. Use a little lacquer thinner on you finger to smooth it out. Only down side to the PC7 is a very slow cure.
baja200merk
09-06-2014, 12:49 AM
I used the dreaded "bondo" polyester junk. Then I used the motor as a power pole for a couple seasons. When I wanted to remove the tab to install the case on a twin engine CC I figured a chisel and a hammer would chip it right off. By the time I was done trying to dent the 100+mph tested 1 year old "BONDO brand" I was scared the skeg was going to come off with it.
I got the grinder out and sanded it flat instead of breaking an M2. That polyester bondo junk that is not water proof worked great for the year it was on there.
stv92
09-06-2014, 06:45 AM
Going to try the JB Stick.
do you apply a coat "wet" west system epoxy first or just apply the JB after cleaning the surface?
Mr. Demeanor
09-06-2014, 07:29 AM
Scuff it with a coarse grit like 32 and go right to the skeg.
IMO most people put too much tab on. The Bobs and TH marine rivit on tabs are too much. Think about the tiny pencil roll on an Allison pad carrying the entire boat. The trailing edge of the tab should have a sharp edge just like the trailing edge of your running surface and prop blade.
stv92
09-06-2014, 08:02 AM
Sounds like a plan :)
going to apply JB only the size of a pencil.
making sure to have a sharp edge.
round off the surface.
how high on the skeg should I go ??
great site for information, thanks again.
Davey W
09-06-2014, 08:54 AM
Scuff it with a coarse grit like 32 and go right to the skeg.
IMO most people put too much tab on. The Bobs and TH marine rivit on tabs are too much. Think about the tiny pencil roll on an Allison pad carrying the entire boat. The trailing edge of the tab should have a sharp edge just like the trailing edge of your running surface and prop blade.The thing i do like about the Bobs is that you can make adjustments by filing or grinding for your application,on my stv it was a big difference ,i can now drive it at a hundred with one hand ,if i wanted to.
Mr. Demeanor
09-06-2014, 10:47 AM
The thing i do like about the Bobs is that you can make adjustments by filing or grinding for your application,on my stv it was a big difference ,i can now drive it at a hundred with one hand ,if i wanted to.
Absolutely and you can the same with an epoxy tab and even easier to build back up if you go to far. My comment was just that as they come, they are too big.
baja200merk
09-06-2014, 11:24 AM
Skeg size is more important then the size of the tab. My small OMC skeg needed all the tab you could get and the motor was still turned BAD at speed. Borderline blow out. We profiled the skeg like a lightning/sporty and it made a world of difference especially with a 15x34
stv92
09-06-2014, 03:52 PM
Just picked up J-B Weld "steelstik"
Its a stick with a 900 PSI strength.
Steel reinforced epoxy putty.
Did I get the correct one to build up my tab.
Got to love this site :)
Davey W
09-06-2014, 04:07 PM
Skeg size is more important then the size of the tab. My small OMC skeg needed all the tab you could get and the motor was still turned BAD at speed. Borderline blow out. We profiled the skeg like a lightning/sporty and it made a world of difference especially with a 15x34Yes i agree, i noticed that with the big prop,on a stv,big difference with mine,seems like more the better,
stv92
09-06-2014, 04:16 PM
I'm also running an STV.
are you guys making the skeg bigger or reforming it?
ran a CLE before, first time running a modified 200 with bobs lwp on this boat.
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