View Full Version : Whats involved in cutting a 20 inch to 15 inch
wired247
09-03-2014, 11:12 AM
Ive got a standard 20 inch fishing mid 3 ram setup. Whats involved in cutting the mid to 15 inch ? Can it be done with the 3 ram ? I've got that thing maxxed out in height with the hydraulic plate now and I'm an inch above. I could put another plate on there but its sitting way high already.
Mr. Demeanor
09-03-2014, 12:53 PM
Just saw a post on FB High Performance boating from a guy parting out a motor with a 15" mid.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1412624142326035/?fref=nf
transomstand
09-03-2014, 01:36 PM
I think 16 is as short as you can go with a 3 ram.
wired247
09-03-2014, 03:22 PM
Contacted the facebook guy. Don't know if its worth $2500 plus shipping to me for a welded flatback offshore.
Mr. Demeanor
09-03-2014, 04:34 PM
I have no idea about Merc stuff. Just saw it and then your post. Your going to be about $1000 for yours sending it out plus cutting your shaft. Whatever/whoever you use, a would ask for extra gussets inside the can. Everyone who does these cut down mids has a failure now and then but they all seem to do them the same way. Kottman did mine originally, it broke, Bob Lipton welded it, it broke, Marty rewelded it and after that I still wanted more support so I had a buddy weld in cross braces.
Im much more confident in it now and its my ass in the seat and my time/money/health.
wired247
09-03-2014, 04:45 PM
That concerns me. I bounce on some pretty rough big water here and the entire boat is often flying through the air with no attachment to the water. I'm a bit concerned about the lower going somewhere else if the practice isnt foolproof.
CNC_Guy
09-03-2014, 07:46 PM
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?297100-Merc-2-5-15-quot-mid&p=2678265#post2678265
Here's one on here.(not mine)
capteliminator
09-03-2014, 10:41 PM
Way overpriced. That kind of money should get you a factory 15" which will have 2 extra inches of setback. Call Marty Powell, he did mine and he knows his stuff.
Just saw a post on FB High Performance boating from a guy parting out a motor with a 15" mid.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1412624142326035/?fref=nf
1FASTLASER
09-04-2014, 06:48 AM
Being that I support myself and family from being a fabricator/welder and have a shoebox full of certifications I gotta ask where are the cut mids failing at? In the weld itself , beside it or elsewhere?
capteliminator
09-04-2014, 07:41 AM
They fail in the weld. I have never done one but I have talked to Marty quite abit about it. He said the bass mids weld like chit and he re inforces them on the inside with straps welded in place. Said they are a bitch to weld as they have a different grade of aluminum and are hard to get clean enough to weld. He did say the offshore housings weld like butter and are a lot thicker. Here is the inside my Marty cut offshore.305311
transomstand
09-04-2014, 07:59 AM
He said the bass mids weld like chit and he re inforces them on the inside with straps welded in place. Said they are a bitch to weld as they have a different grade of aluminum and are hard to get clean enough to weld.
Universally the welders say the alloy is terrible to weld, some say from the low copper content. Plus on a bass mid, it's damn near paper thin where you make the cut. Some guys have had very good luck with bass mids, many have not.
1FASTLASER
09-04-2014, 12:35 PM
Thanks fellas. Wired wasnt trying to highjack the thread but figured this would b appropiate right now. Also got a question of mine answered. I definately know about trying to weld some aluminum alloys. A real pain in the arse when the base metal and filler rod doesnt flow right.
wired247
09-04-2014, 01:07 PM
You werent hijacking at all. I'd really like to know what to do to cut one , what has to be done to the swivel to get it to work etc. The more technical the better. Sure I could buy one but if it is just a matter of 3 solid man days to get one together with the right equipment that sounds like a better deal than paying someone elses $100 hr shop rate. Ive succesfully welded a lot of lowers in the past but never gotten into the mid sections and given the thickness of the metal it doesnt look fun.
97 TWISTER
09-04-2014, 01:52 PM
I just had one that the weld failed between the tiller arm and the steering shaft/tube. I found this when I was taking the motor apart to change tuners very lucky and very scary. It fell apart as I was seperating the can fro the exhaust plate. I think that if I fix it I will drill a hole and pin it so if the weld does fail there it can't spin. Its is easy to routinely check the can for failure but you can't see the weld on the tiller and IMO that would probably be a much more catostrophic failure. I am gonna contact the guy this one a suggest the same. I also have another one that they cut in the middle of the shaft/tube and atleast with that method your not cutting and rewelding the factory weld. I am no expert welder but I think some of the problems welding the can stem from all the 2 stroke exhust passing through there impregnating the aluminum. I'm in the towing biz and I prefer steel beds over aluminum just for that reason. After years of cars bleeding on them and all the grease and road grime it is very hard to ever get a good weld to repair the aluminum ones.
baja200merk
09-04-2014, 02:05 PM
Step 1
Drive over to Marty powels
Step 2
Kick 20" mid out of truck
Step 3
Go home
Step 4
Go back to martys pick up 15" mid
wired247
09-04-2014, 02:16 PM
Step 1 would actually be ...drive 3000 miles...
Step 1
Drive over to Marty powels
Step 2
Kick 20" mid out of truck
Step 3
Go home
Step 4
Go back to martys pick up 15" mid
strongback
09-04-2014, 02:34 PM
Step 1
Drive over to Marty powels
Step 2
Kick 20" mid out of truck
Step 3
Go home
Step 4
Go back to martys pick up 15" mid I don't even stop! I just roll it out the door about 20 and pick it up when its done. Marty Powell is better than McDonalds!!
strongback
09-04-2014, 02:35 PM
Step 1 would actually be ...drive 3000 miles... You can ship it right to him. Its worth the shipping:D
wired247
09-04-2014, 02:39 PM
I feel my 2015 bonus starting to dwindle...
dagodiver
09-04-2014, 02:43 PM
I just did one as a skunkworks project.
Was fun but time consuming for just a one off thing.
Having a CMM helps making the fixtures and such.
Good luck.
Dago.
1FASTLASER
09-05-2014, 12:21 PM
Wonder why mother Merc made such a difference in the fishin mids,racing mids and the offshore mids. I mean it dont matter which motor ya running there outta be ALOT of GOOD metal between powerhead and lower considering the running forces and hydro forces etc etc exerted on the mid
wired247
09-05-2014, 01:01 PM
Wonder why mother Merc made such a difference in the fishin mids,racing mids and the offshore mids. I mean it dont matter which motor ya running there outta be ALOT of GOOD metal between powerhead and lower considering the running forces and hydro forces etc etc exerted on the mid
No need for a beefed up mid on a fishing motor. Less metal means less cost at the foundry and lighter weight. Manufacturing is all about making it a penny a ton cheaper. Someones bonus was dependent on it. Thats not an exaggeration.
strongback
09-06-2014, 10:36 PM
Wonder why mother Merc made such a difference in the fishin mids,racing mids and the offshore mids. I mean it dont matter which motor ya running there outta be ALOT of GOOD metal between powerhead and lower considering the running forces and hydro forces etc etc exerted on the mid At 3:33 minute mark and 4:15 will explain pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXnSXgAda5w
Best advice: Send it to Marty Powell.
JPEROG
09-18-2014, 09:18 PM
You can check with Charlie (Chaz here on the board)-He has done several and knows what it takes to prevent them from breaking. He will be cutting my 300X down very soon and just got done with my sons 90 merc that goes on his 15 whaler. Good guy to deal with.
Joe
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