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View Full Version : new female f1 champboat driver !!!!!!



PARKER RABE
06-08-2014, 05:54 PM
She did a good job !!! Ran it 100 with me right behing her....

PARKER RABE
06-08-2014, 05:56 PM
Was fun to run with the canopy off

Laser LTV
06-08-2014, 06:06 PM
Good pics today brother!!!! Sweet set up keeps getting better

PARKER RABE
06-08-2014, 07:45 PM
Tell u what , I was fun running it without the canapoys , we both had the wind in our face , had a blast ! It sucks with them on ! I'm thinking a bout getin a saw saw and just cuttin the whole top off !!!!:)

PARKER RABE
06-08-2014, 07:46 PM
You think that would kill the resale? Lol

TNT
06-08-2014, 08:10 PM
Parky! Tell her I said whats up! ;) haha

PARKER RABE
06-08-2014, 08:36 PM
I will buddy

DOC W
06-08-2014, 08:58 PM
Can't wait to see it at lake Jackson bub

Hot Shot Merc
06-08-2014, 10:36 PM
I knew it wouldnt be long before the top came off. You know its hot as hell in there :eek::D

stokernick
06-09-2014, 08:39 AM
I knew it wouldnt be long before the top came off. You know its hot as hell in there :eek::D

Her's, or the Boat's??????????????

PARKER RABE
06-09-2014, 08:41 AM
I know you're right I don't think I'll ever put them back on, I was thinking about selling the boat because it was just so awful in there now that I have ran the boat with them off I love and I'm going to keep it.......there's nothing like being strapped in that thing coming into a corner at 100 plus.....once you get that Speedmaster hooked up over a hundred miles an hour its like skating on ice.......bad ass

PARKER RABE
06-09-2014, 08:43 AM
Her's, or the Boat's??????????????

Lol .... i new that was comming !!!!! :)

PARKER RABE
06-09-2014, 08:49 AM
the boat already for Sebring, I'm having a little issue with the Speedmaster with the aluminum being porous right on the side of a bullet I'm getting fluid leaking through the pores in the aluminum craziest thing I've ever seen I tried welding it nothing will work gear lube still seems to find its way through the metalI tried even putting marine tex on the side of the gearcase as you can see in one of the pictures and the gear lube still made its way through the marine tex......not a super big deal because the fluid is leaking out in the gearcase is constantly under pressure so the water will not find its way back in

Robby321
06-09-2014, 04:11 PM
Hey Park's, leave the damn top off! I like it! Yeah I mean the boat too!:p:thumbsup:

Wayne Cammidge
06-10-2014, 01:48 AM
Now I know why the race teams change the gear oil after each run.

PARKER RABE
06-10-2014, 08:06 AM
Ive never seen a gearcase leak thru pours metal......I've had 10 sport masters and 3 speedmasters this is a first.....

stokernick
06-10-2014, 08:28 AM
remember watching Kim Jernigan race modvp's a ''few'' years ago! originally thought she's back!!

powerabout
06-10-2014, 08:42 AM
the boat already for Sebring, I'm having a little issue with the Speedmaster with the aluminum being porous right on the side of a bullet I'm getting fluid leaking through the pores in the aluminum craziest thing I've ever seen I tried welding it nothing will work gear lube still seems to find its way through the metalI tried even putting marine tex on the side of the gearcase as you can see in one of the pictures and the gear lube still made its way through the marine tex......not a super big deal because the fluid is leaking out in the gearcase is constantly under pressure so the water will not find its way back in
when it cools down it will be at a low pressure and suck the water in

PARKER RABE
06-10-2014, 11:54 AM
does anybody know of anything stronger than marine tex that I could wipe over the porous spot in the gearcase that will hold up???? how about resin? I've tried JB weld it doesn't work the spot is the size of a pin hole for some reason it made its way through the Marine Tex and started leaking right out of the middle of it.......if I can't fix it I'm going to have to buy a new case which is about $4000

powerabout
06-10-2014, 12:00 PM
there will be a loctite for that and I would pressure it in or suck it in
It will need to be very clean...

PS $4000 will almost buy a OMC F1 V8 lower complete, that didnt help fix it though did it

Robby321
06-10-2014, 09:55 PM
Hey Parker fucstik! Ever think trying to do simple Fiberglass coating the case? I'm working 2 boats now with FG. Coat the witch with resin, cure, and leave smooth. Shiny the case will show fine. Just a thought air head. And get used to the new "Porous" casting now...sucks, but not unheard of either. Worked 21 years Alum industry. Simple BS lousy mix in the furnace to begin with. Theres NO WAY, it should be porous one damn bit.

OK, one more thing, as I don't know any pix it..but. Grab a couple cans (12oz) "Magnaflux" "Spot Check". One is a "penetrate", (SKL-HF/S). Other is a (SKD-NF) Clean the crap out the case first, and spray on the SKD-NF. Then spray the red dye from the SKL-HF-S. ANY hairline crack will show up fast. Just a thought buddy boy. If you were near me and could look it, I'd solve it. Rock on ..Robby

CNC_Guy
06-10-2014, 10:04 PM
Install a vent kit with reservoir maybe won't build up as much pressure and leak less.

Robby321
06-10-2014, 10:24 PM
Install a vent kit with reservoir maybe won't build up as much pressure and leak less.

YES!..LU need help maybe?

PARKER RABE
06-10-2014, 10:31 PM
Install a vent kit with reservoir maybe won't build up as much pressure and leak less.
thats the answer!

toyomirage02
06-11-2014, 03:19 AM
marty had the same prob with friutboys case a sporty kept doin the same thing,pin holes,did all the same with jb and marine and didnt work had to buy a new case,,,sell that turd and buy another 3 or 4 seater way more useable

rock
06-11-2014, 08:04 AM
Try Belzona. Best epoxy on earth.

Rock

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 10:50 AM
Rock where do you get it?

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 10:52 AM
the gearcase is under about seven pounds of pressure at wide open throttle I would have thought Marine tex would have held it but it did not the gearcase oil found its way through the marine tex and made another pinhole, and started leaking out, i was so pissed......now I'm going to sand it all off and start over again...

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 10:56 AM
Venting the gearcase would solve all the problems, i would think........the marine tex would hold then?

rock
06-11-2014, 11:12 AM
pm me your address and I will send you some. Caterpillar authorizes it's use on castings that don't clean up.

A two-part composite material for metal repair based on a silicone steel reinforced polymer system. Due to its fast curing characteristics, this repair material is ideal for emergency repair situations. It can be machined using conventional tools and provides a permanent metal bonding or rebuilding solution.
Key benefits:

Fast cure for high speed emergency repairs
Multi-purpose durable repair composite
Fully machinable using conventional tools
Packaged in individual, pocket-sized sachets for convenience
<nobr>Application (http://www.screamandfly.com/#)</nobr> and cure at room temperature - no hot work involved
Reduced health and safety risks as it is solvent free
No shrinkage, expansion or distortion
Excellent adhesion to metals including stainless steel, carbon steel, aluminium, brass and copper
Will adhere to many other natural and synthetic materials including glass, wood, etc.
Outstanding corrosion resistance
Excellent chemical resistance against a wide range of chemicals
Excellent electrical insulation characteristics

Applications for Belzona 1221 (Super E-Metal) include:

Repair of <nobr>leaking pipes (http://www.screamandfly.com/#)</nobr> and tanks
Repair of cracks and holes on engine and pump casings, pipes, tanks and other equipment
Resurface of pitted metal surfaces
Repair of damaged shafts and hydraulic rams
Repair of plastic and metal joints
Shimming and reseating of irregular equipment


<tbody>
Key technical data:


Working life at 25°C (77°F)
3 minutes


Time to mechanical cure 25°C (77°F)
1 hour


Pull off adhesion (D4541 / ISO 4624)
1,500 psi (10.34 MPa) on blasted mild steel


Compressive strength (ASTM D695)
8,100 psi (54.84 MPa)


Temperature resistance
60°C (140°F) immersed, 150°C (302°F) dry


Bonds to
Aluminium, copper, steel, stainless steel, cast iron, lead, glass, wood, most plastics and many more


Typical applications
Leak repairs, bonding, shimming, filling, gluing, patch repairs and many more


Unit size
125g. Unit sizes may vary locally.


Rock

</tbody>

Mr. Demeanor
06-11-2014, 01:49 PM
Youll never get it clean enough to bond well. The only thing keeping water out of the gearcase now is the pressure inside. vent it and you will get water in where the oil was coming out.
I would pressurize it, identify the leaks with some soapy water, and have it welded.

Robby321
06-11-2014, 03:58 PM
Try Belzona. Best epoxy on earth.

Rock

YEP! We used it a lot at work...

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 04:49 PM
ive hed 4 different people try and weld it.........everyone said its just pours, could be a bad casting on mercurys part, i even stripped it down to the case , sent it to ohio and had it resin infused, still didnt work

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 04:53 PM
rocks sending me the killer stuff. well she if she holds:)

CNC_Guy
06-11-2014, 05:03 PM
Sucks to pay that much for a gearcase that leaks and Mother Merc just doesn't care about anything except $$$$

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 05:16 PM
No $hit sucks that's why I'm trying to fix it, new #4 speed master case is close to 4000

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 05:22 PM
I've had so much welding done on it the case was geting waves, the spot where it's leaking is so small figured i could marine tex it and roll, but the fluid made its way thru the marine tex, I tried stuff called cold weld also, didn't work either, ran it thought it was good then waited a few hours then came the pin hole leak in the epoxy, I was pissed , just ate its way right thru it I guess, the spot that is leaking is the size of a pencil tip

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 05:24 PM
Maybe I should try resin ? Slap some of that **** on there

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 05:25 PM
I'll take pics of the side of the case tomorrow and show u guys

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 05:31 PM
Crappy pic for now

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 05:33 PM
I can't believe the fluid made it through the Marine TexI thought that stuff was stronger than that the hole is so small its amazing

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 05:46 PM
I even took the gear case off layed it on its side so it wasn't leaking at all I put the epoxy on the side of it let it set a week and then bolted it back on the boat and it started leaking

Scott Tharpe
06-11-2014, 07:24 PM
If it's one single small pin hole, drill and tap it then install countersunk plug. Jus a thought

johnmiffco
06-11-2014, 07:47 PM
that is at the lower bearing carrier
don't want to do much there
them cases are very thin and all the gear pressure at upper and lower bearings
they tend to crack/leak
I had 2 didfffernt cases through the yrs crack/create a pin hole
1 on the upper and 1 in same lower area
ran 1 for 4 yrs in f2 leaking till I sold boat
don't want to be drillin or much grinding there
very thin ,,,and with prop loading/unloading across the water makes the shafts flex hense
some will crack ,,,,,,

PARKER RABE
06-11-2014, 08:34 PM
Great !!!!

hydrochicken
06-11-2014, 09:11 PM
Wonder what that stainless coating would do on it that hstream1 does on them may seal it up dunno might give him a call seems like a straight up good guy from what I read never dealt with him but definitely seems to get great comments on his work

Robby321
06-11-2014, 10:42 PM
Well read through the comments. Agree with all on thoughts. First Tig welding will heat the aluminum and distort. Ya gotta rip the guts out, "Cold soak" any case not worked on heat transfer. And thats takes a good TIG welder. But one applying some "patch"..epoxy? FIRST is to do a air grinder, with a "double cut" Alum bit. Dig out the problem area, leave it rough for adhesion, THEN epoxy.

Sorry to here the probs Parker...(and thanks for the pic, which I WAS gonna ask for!)

Mr. Demeanor
06-11-2014, 11:01 PM
The only way a sealant/epoxy has any chance of working would be from the inside. If its really just porosity and not cracking, I wonder if you cleaned the hell out of it then layed it with that side down and used a thin epoxy from the inside maybe with a little air pressure (you could rig up a cap and add a little pressure) forcing the resin into the pores. Then just clean up the excess epoxy.

headgames
06-12-2014, 07:03 AM
The only way a sealant/epoxy has any chance of working would be from the inside. If its really just porosity and not cracking, I wonder if you cleaned the hell out of it then layed it with that side down and used a thin epoxy from the inside maybe with a little air pressure (you could rig up a cap and add a little pressure) forcing the resin into the pores. Then just clean up the excess epoxy. I agree.I'm in the cylinderhead repair business and i have used a product in the past called Ceramic seal...it's a type of epoxy made by Moroso that is designed to be put in the cooling system but we've poured it directly into the heads and then pressurized the head overnight...had good results.

baja200merk
06-12-2014, 08:18 AM
I had a 3.0 sporty I was helping a friend get together. We pressure tested it and found it had previous welds in the side of the case. Luckily we had not put any oil back in it yet. Beef TIG welded it and got it to stop on the 3rd attempt. Still doesnt leak.

Mr. Demeanor
06-12-2014, 09:06 AM
I had a 3.0 sporty I was helping a friend get together. We pressure tested it and found it had previous welds in the side of the case. Luckily we had not put any oil back in it yet. Beef TIG welded it and got it to stop on the 3rd attempt. Still doesnt leak.

From the inside or outside? Did you have to heat up the case first in order to make very small welds? I am no welder but was was really amazed when watching Rich Junker do some welding on one of my cases at how the case just sucked up the heat.

If you could weld it, I would do that because once you try and epoxy it, your never going to weld there. Its nice of Parker to put up his little gearcase as a test subject to see if this works for anyone in the future to try.

Robby321
06-12-2014, 07:41 PM
On welding aluminum...? Takes skill of a pro for sure. Thing is heat travels fast Alum..(and distorts). Why I said before, you MUST cold soak any not welded heat OUT the none welded stuff. Simple nothing but wet cold water towels, and keep them wet to draw the heat away. Been a weldor and Machinist all my life...(and yes, at one time called proper.."Weldors", not Welders"..Anyway

And if thin?, its worse. Had a good welder at work TIG some deep (bike was dumped), scratches, a old 1975 HD Sportster Primary case for a motor I was rebuilding into a stroked monster for the dragbike I built. It was clamped down the bench. TIGed, but pulled the clamps to fast. Still warm. Sucker at on time WAS a flat surface, but soon turned into junk. Ended up more egg shaped than flat. And as a odd ball case.(1975 Sporty1000 Pri), took me 2 years to find another good one. That said..

Just a thought this though. Parker. Ever think to "PowderCoat" it...? Powder coaters, chine in thoughts. Its tough, durable, but clueless heat (should not matter as water cooled), and any expansion the case even if slight, well back to square one. Heck, I dunno. Just thinking this.

Also mentioned to vent the case..(jeezz 7 pounds? pressure?..I test LUs at 10 for any leak)
Maybe do that "vent" THEN epoxy the case Belzona? And remember the "force of water traveling at 100mph"...........like cement now. Don't think water has "resistance? Go in the water waist deep. Do a "arm swing in the air then into water". Yep as at 2mph, "resistance"..water. Now think at 100 mph. Hope the best Parker...

PARKER RABE
06-12-2014, 07:52 PM
I'm just shocked I had 4 welders work on this as a bare case and nothing worked!!!!! Marty Powell was one of them he finally gave up, in side outside , god dam fluid still came thru the pores in the alumnium.....Fukin crazy..... God dam epoxy won't even hold

baja200merk
06-12-2014, 07:53 PM
From the inside or outside? Did you have to heat up the case first in order to make very small welds? I am no welder but was was really amazed when watching Rich Junker do some welding on one of my cases at how the case just sucked up the heat.

If you could weld it, I would do that because once you try and epoxy it, your never going to weld there. Its nice of Parker to put up his little gearcase as a test subject to see if this works for anyone in the future to try.

From the outside. Im doing another 3.0 now that was also welded from the outside and it does not leak. Trick is make sure there is no oil and heat it up. Took 2-3 tries on Don's but we got it sealed up only took about 45 mins.

Bring it up here beef will sew it up :D

PARKER RABE
06-12-2014, 07:54 PM
Can't believe gear lube ate threw marine tex

Robby321
06-12-2014, 08:14 PM
Can't believe gear lube ate threw marine tex

Was what done still attached, AND came through M Tex?. Thats weird to me.

Maybe I can "go Psychic here" and fix it overnight. Go get drunk and laid. I can get the planets aligned right as the rest is coming just fine.

Tomorrow Friday the 13th, FULL MOON...will be my 64th BDay!. Next Full Moon friday, June 13th? 2049. (bet still be around pissing off the people, at 99). So do not look at the boat until ya look up and see the full moon tomorrow night..Case fixed? Maybe as I just stole yer boat when ya were "looking up!" Dumb azz..Hugs dude..

CNC_Guy
06-12-2014, 08:56 PM
I kind of like headgames idea of the pressure application of the ceramic sealant. I would do it as a last resort because I think after that, there would be no chance of welding. I would bake it about 250* for a couple of days in a vacuum oven before another try at welding. The little fissures behind the leak spot probably cover quite a large area. Just my .02

Robby321
06-12-2014, 08:59 PM
I kind of like headgames idea of the pressure application of the ceramic sealant. I would do it as a last resort because I think after that, there would be no chance of welding. I would bake it about 250* for a couple of days in a vacuum oven before another try at welding. The little fissures behind the leak spot probably cover quite a large area. Just my .02


Good 2 cents think! ;):thumbsup:

RabidGatorFan
06-13-2014, 12:36 AM
Merc Vent Kit for #IV is Part No. 821085A3. Approx. $450 (maybe less depending on your hookup with Mercury parts). Comes with all you need including through-transom hardware. Might not fix the problem, but will definetly take the pressure out of the gearcase.

josh7_78
06-15-2014, 08:04 PM
Merc Vent Kit for #IV is Part No. 821085A3. Approx. $450 (maybe less depending on your hookup with Mercury parts). Comes with all you need including through-transom hardware. Might not fix the problem, but will definetly take the pressure out of the gearcase.

on B/O till 7/3

Mr. Demeanor
06-15-2014, 11:46 PM
I kind of like headgames idea of the pressure application of the ceramic sealant. I would do it as a last resort because I think after that, there would be no chance of welding. I would bake it about 250* for a couple of days in a vacuum oven before another try at welding. The little fissures behind the leak spot probably cover quite a large area. Just my .02

You could send the whole thing out to Jet Hot to be ceramic coated inside and out. I would think they could mask off the races and such.
The stuff is super durable. Its also polished up real nice. We had all our drag bike pipes done in this stuff.
http://www.jet-hot.com/

rock
06-24-2014, 05:22 PM
Sorry for delay. Belzona went out yesterday. Good luck. Sounds like your gonna need it.

Rock

PARKER RABE
06-24-2014, 07:36 PM
thanks rock!!!!!!!

Capt.Insane-o
06-26-2014, 01:05 AM
I'm just shocked I had 4 welders work on this as a bare case and nothing worked!!!!! Marty Powell was one of them he finally gave up, in side outside , god dam fluid still came thru the pores in the alumnium.....Fukin crazy..... God dam epoxy won't even hold

Once the gear lube leaches through the case it is damn near impossible to get anything to stop it due to the contamination. I've had 2 sporties that weeped, the first was replaced by merc , and the second I peend the area with a hammer and filled it over with pc7. Or just deal with it.