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RayH
02-19-2003, 12:50 PM
I'm nearing the point of my winter project to begin Hull repairs prior to painting. Should I repair all my stress cracks on top prior to flipping the hull or should I flip the hull, repair and paint the bottom and sides then upright the hull, repair and paint the top?

Wile E. Coyote
02-19-2003, 06:58 PM
Repair the bottom first, you dont want to flip your rig onto a freshly repaired deck, you may just create more stress cracks

RayH
02-19-2003, 07:49 PM
Thanks Wile E. I was thinking on the same lines, just wasn't sure.
I'm building a rolling rack that will support the hull from the inside verse resting the weight of the hull on the cap. This should minimize any stress to the cap.

wing nut
02-20-2003, 12:37 AM
you probably dont want to hear this and i know i didnt (b/c i had alot of stress cracks) grind them untill there gone, then fill them with duraglass or somthing like that. if you paint over them they will show rite though. what i did was flip the boat over, do the whole bottom and paint it.. then flip the boat back over and finish up the top and then paint it.

scott

RayH
02-20-2003, 07:52 PM
Scott, I'm not familiar with Duraglass.........As you said, I was planning on grinding out the damaged Gel and/or Glass, bevl the edges and lay resin/mat, then use a filler in the resin such as Microspheres and Cab-O-Sil for final fairing. I'm begining to wonder if a primer is needed, either on the repaired area and/or the entire hull surface................? Did you primer prior to paint? Did you go with a light or dark color? I'm planning the base color a peral white, not sure about the graphics yet, maybe no graphics........

Ray

bulldogdaddy
02-20-2003, 09:17 PM
do you have any pics of this rolling rack? would love to see some cus my boat weighs to much for 6 guys to roll it over! probably would collapse the deck!

sho305
02-20-2003, 10:27 PM
When I put my transom skin back on the outside, I matted all the cracks/cuts about 3 times (used cloth), then some microspheres but they were rough....must need that cabosil stuff. But I was using epoxy too. So I layed a coat of Duro on it to smooth it good (not wanting to go to the other side of town again). Then I was not sure about the VC Epoxy paint I had that said it needed special primer for poly but not epoxy...so I coated it twice w/epoxy and then painted it. I figure the duro is sealed in there now as the epoxy is supposedly more water proof(?). All 80 grit between. I beat on it last fall, jumped on the motor, did full trim holeshots with the 85hp, and it looks good so far.

It is autobody, but I think the Duro is just fiberglass resin, a filler, and ground glass to make a putty. It is pretty formable and you could spread it over your head if you had to. Cures in 5-10 minutes like a rock. Can also get it with strands of glass in it. Hard to sand by hand.

You have to grind out and fill the cracks, or they will come back. Probably not very deep for hairline ones.

wing nut
02-20-2003, 11:32 PM
Originally posted by RayH
Scott, I'm not familiar with Duraglass.........As you said, I was planning on grinding out the damaged Gel and/or Glass, bevl the edges and lay resin/mat, then use a filler in the resin such as Microspheres and Cab-O-Sil for final fairing. I'm begining to wonder if a primer is needed, either on the repaired area and/or the entire hull surface................? Did you primer prior to paint? Did you go with a light or dark color? I'm planning the base color a peral white, not sure about the graphics yet, maybe no graphics........

Ray

duraglass is like body filler, but its waterproof. me and my father did most of the heavy sanding, and filling of the grinded out stress cracks. after that a friend took over. he sanded everything down with 120grit. then sprayed on a spray filler, which is great stuff and fills everything you missed. then sand that down so its perfect. then primer and finally paint. if you are getting it painted with a good spray gun, i would say use primer. the primer he used was light in color.

scott

ShipBear
02-21-2003, 01:37 AM
I read in one of my custom paint books.
Use flat white, as a base coat under your white pearl, will really made it stand out..

Later Larry

Wile E. Coyote
02-21-2003, 09:59 AM
duraglass is just like the other plastic body fillers but it is waterproof and has glass fibers in it. the cabosil/balloons has worked good for me, it is the same material as your base, and it dries and sands faster and easier. (but it is a mess) I guess it depends on how much work you have to do.
As for paint I would use a primer/sealer reccomended by your paint manufacturer. (to avoid chemical incompatability, and ensure a good chemical bond as well as mechanical bond)
bill

sho305
02-21-2003, 11:13 AM
I would not use any paint/filler product that is not catylized, and look into the epoxy primers. There is a thread here someplace about the paint stuff.

The easy sanding bondo type light filler for cars is NOT waterproof. Duroglass is.