Johnson wiring questions

[0081]

I'm trying to help my brother that just picked him self up a 16ft boat with a "good running" motor. The only thing the motor was no so good running. It would not on into gear or start for that matter

I'm told its a 1972 Johnson 135hp

I have found it wouldn't start because the choke solenoid was missing, we have got a replacement but I'm unsure where the wiring goes to, I'm guessing it goes to the terminal strip on the top of the motor but i don't know what numbers as the last owner kindly removed the wiring also. does anyone know where the wiring needs to go or have a pic that could help out

The control box was stuffed that's what was stopping it going into gear but they also had run a cable from the inside of control the box to the start relay, now that we have replaced the control box there is nothing connected to the start relay. from a quick look with no tools i have found a tan wire in the loom that doesn't go anywhere and its kinda near the start relay so I'm guessing that it, sound about right to anyone on here.
I know its easy to check with a multi meter but i thought i would ask here while I'm at it.

Pete

[powerabout]

Its a 73 135 or its a 72 125
Lots of differences there
Photo will sort that one out

[2.5-21]

This diagram is the same up to 96

[thornl01]

Need to check close on the wiring as the 72/125 and the 73/135 ignitions are COMPLETELY DIFFERENT !

If it happens to be a 72/125, be VERY VERY careful w/ wiring as the powerpack (ignition) box for this baby will really hurt your feelings if you have to get one (if you can find one)

Look @ engine rear, is powerpack mounted on a boomerand looking brackes on the rear top w/ 10/12 wires on it or is it a large black box w/ 3 wires on it.

Also the 69-72 battery ignition engines had starters that drew so much current that the cranking voltage supplying the pack would drop below the minimum 9 vdc.

Factory / service bullitens came out to install an electric shift supply diode between the starter post & the pack supply to help w/ starting.

Hope you have the 73 !.

[71V153]

What's the model #?

[0081]

This diagram is the same up to 96
Thanks for that pic, you don't happen to have one that shows the plug on the motor side do you?

Pete

[0081]

Need to check close on the wiring as the 72/125 and the 73/135 ignitions are COMPLETELY DIFFERENT !

If it happens to be a 72/125, be VERY VERY careful w/ wiring as the powerpack (ignition) box for this baby will really hurt your feelings if you have to get one (if you can find one)

Look @ engine rear, is powerpack mounted on a boomerand looking brackes on the rear top w/ 10/12 wires on it or is it a large black box w/ 3 wires on it.

Also the 69-72 battery ignition engines had starters that drew so much current that the cranking voltage supplying the pack would drop below the minimum 9 vdc.

Factory / service bullitens came out to install an electric shift supply diode between the starter post & the pack supply to help w/ starting.

Hope you have the 73 !.


Ok well after a bit more checking it looks like its a 1974
Its a bit hard to get any info off the plate but the 2 numbers stamped on it appear to read
No. 135ESL743
No. 126552

I have also attached some pics of the motor.

I mostly need to know where the choke wires go, one looks like a ground so that easy its just the 12v feed to it, it also looks like someone has removed the temp sensor wire or over temp sensor as there is a purple wire also disconnected from the terminal block.292562292563

[71V153]

Yep 135ESL74 would make it a '74. Not sure what the last 3 means.

126552 isn't a model# or part#. Production# mebbe?

[0081]

Yep 135ESL74 would make it a '74. Not sure what the last 3 means.

126552 isn't a model# or part#. Production# mebbe?

The last 3 could also be the letter B the outside of the motor is a bit rough but under the cover is not that bad expect for the half ass wiring someone has done

[2.5-21]

The motor side is the female part of the big red plug in that picture the colors carry through

[71V153]

OMC did use "A, B, C", etc as a subscript on some'a their sterndrive models to designate an upgrade. Dunno if'n they ever did that with the obs?

[pcrussell50]

i've got a '75 135, and mine is all original. if you need me to take any pictures i'm happy to help.

btw, i lived in AUS as a kid in the 80's. melbourne. great years of my life. fell in love with cricket and v8 supercars.

-peter

[0081]

i've got a '75 135, and mine is all original. if you need me to take any pictures i'm happy to help.

btw, i lived in AUS as a kid in the 80's. melbourne. great years of my life. fell in love with cricket and v8 supercars.

-peter

Thanks for the offer i might take you up on that ill see how it goes later this week when i get a chance to finish it off.

From looking at the pic that 2.5-21 sent through I think ill be able to sort it out but in the brief time it stopped raining today i had a quick look at the motor side of the harness and it didn't appear to have a yellow with a red trace for the started but I think its the wire circled in red in this pic
292607

[EMDSAPMGR]

The 1974 ignition system looks to be close to this 1973 schematic. Check out this website: http://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/V4_1973.jpg

[0081]

Thanks for that pic but I hope its not like that as the choke I have only has 2 wires not 3 like the one in the link.

pcrussell50 if you could check what yours has would be helpfull thanks..

Pete

[thornl01]

all these OMC engines has a habit of wires breaking inside of the insulation just under the clamp on the pan where the harness comes into the engine.
the starter soleinoid wire is the yellow w/ red tracer. Unwrap the harness @ the clamp & using both hands, pull the wires to locate which ones are broken inside. when you find one that is broken, the wire/insulation will stretch like a rubber band.

Choke wiring is black to ground, purple/yellow to temp sensor/ purple/white is to choke switch from control box.

before you run it too much, I would suggest that you fatten up the high speed jets a step or two as these 135 have a loot of wind in them.

[0081]

I have untaped the loom on the motor side to the red plug and there is 8 wires like in the pic and also the link in this thread but non of them are yellow with a red trace.
Unless the colour has faded and the red trace has rubbed off somehow but i cant see that happening.
I know it should be yellow with a red trace but..... ill try and get a good pic tomorrow.

The only wire that looks close to what I need is the one I circled in red, that pic was before I untaped the loom

[0081]

There is a yellow with the red trace from the control box down to the red plug but that colour dosent continue on the motor side of the plug

[EMDSAPMGR]

That 3-wire solenoid was used from 73 into the 75 model years. Two leads, plus a ground.

[0081]

That 3-wire solenoid was used from 73 into the 75 model years. Two leads, plus a ground.

The replacement i one we got only has 2 wires but from a bit of searching on the net last night it looks like some solenoids had 2 wires but the feed in was split into 2 so it could connect to 2 places.
Does that sound right to anyone ???

If someone could get a pic that would be great..

Pete

[EMDSAPMGR]

You can look at the factory exploded parts diagrams at this website: epc.brp.com. It's handy when working on these engines-shows how they go together. Some of these early engines had a two-stage choke, unlike the later ones. Not sure if yours has that feature or not..with the split wiring. I did not like that feature. Really, you only need the choke to fully apply when the switch is flipped to the choke position, then fully release the the switch is released. An on/off scenario is all you need. I'm sure one of the other experts can chime in with the exact info.

[pcrussell50]

If someone could get a pic that would be great..

Pete

Cheers, mate:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-te35uhIbheA/UwPqcLgNloI/AAAAAAAAL6Q/2lC0XifoCCM/w420-h560-no/IMG_20140218_151812.jpg

there are indeed three wires on the solenoid: black, violet w/white, violet w/yellow

this is a '75 evninrude 135hp, 135583e

-peter

[powerabout]

You dont need the thermo version
Choke with the switch is all you need
I would careful with the tune though as mentioned above
135 had tons of comp so best fuel you can get
There are some service bulletins re jetting and head gaskets to make them live with modern fuel

[0081]

Thanks for all the help guys got it sorted yesterday.

The starter wire is yellow with a red trace from the control box but changes to a tan with no trace for the start solenoid on the motor loom.
The choke I got was a single wire one and I wired it so when its cold it will stay on (when the key is on) when the motor is cold then drops out through the sensor once warm, it also works when you hit the choke via the key.