breakin time!

[boatn70]

well now i have everything ready to run for the first time, break-in time.
i seem to really get a variety of "break-in" procedures lately, can someone give me some pointers as who to believe.
ive heard use synthetic, use merc prem plus; run at idle for 30 min, just run 3-5k rpm for 25 gals gas; run double oil for the first tank, just run 50:1 merc.
WHAT TO DO?
if anyone has a reliable way to get this done please help.
i do understand the decision is my own so i guess ill take the majority rule.

this is my first time so be easy on me!LOL!

by the way, whats the name of the Pennzoil Synthetic, is it a 2-cycle oil? and where do you get it?

Thanks everyone!

[Talon2.5]

mix gasoline and oil during the 10-hour break in period at a 25:1 ratio, operate a new motor at 1/2 throttle (2500-3500 RPM) for two hours, after 2 hours the motor may be run at any speed, although sustained operation at full throttle should be avoided for an additional 8 hours.

the 25:1 is basically "double oil", if ya mix 16 ounces to 6 gallons of gas as your general practice ( 50 to 1) then go 32 ounces to 6 gallons and you get the 25:1 "double oil"

i always used merc premium oil first then go to the pennsoil synthetic after the 10 hour period.

you can get the "pensoil 100% synthetic" oil at walmart in the gallon jug for less than 20 dollars a gallon.

i usually put the first half hour to an hour on it using the garden hose in the driveway with the cowling off looking for leaks or any thing going wrong then hit the lake.

it says to re-torque the heads after 3 hours of run time, it doesnt say whether to do it hot or cold but i do it with the engine cold.

just my thoughts fer ya................later skip

[us1]

For a long life motor I do exactly what Talon2.5 says except for one thing. The first hour I am very careful with the motor, no revving it up in neutral and never going on plain. I just run it around at 1500 to 2500 off plain. Then the next hour I run at half throttle 2500 to 3500 RPM. This avoids prematurely scoring cylinder wall.

[Techno]

Does anything else besides the rings and cylinders get broken in? The whole break in thing is for these 2 parts right?

[sosmerc]

Boatn70, you never said what engine you have. The break-in procedure is not the same for every Merc. If you bought a brand new Merc I would simple follow the factory owners manual to the letter. Keep in mind that many of the new models incorporate an ECU that has "run history" so if there is any problem during the warranty period Merc may request that the ECU be sent to them for analysis. At least if you follow Merc's recommendations for break-in there should not be any problem getting failures covered under warranty...especially with support from ECU run history that shows you did not abuse the engine.

[boatn70]

sosmerc, thanks for the reply.
its a rebuilt 2.5 efi 260.
us1/talon2.5 i think ill follow your advice
i will take it easy for sure, should i do a comp test right away then test afterwards to note the increase?
is there any target numbers here? i believe the heads are 34cc, the only mod here.
thanks
kevin

[us1]

The break-in procedure we describe is the one I use for the 2.5 260 and all older motors. That’s a good point by Sosmerc, if you were to have a very newer motor you should follow your manufactures break-in guide.

[us1]

You will end up with about 145 to 150 lbs compresion. Thats if your sure they are 34cc.

[Firestarter]

This is a little weird, but I have always had a very different method of breaking in my motors.
My Engine Builder, has always told me to lower the motor, put on my biggest prop, fire it up, and get it up on plane with the trim in. He just says, get up on plane slowly and putt around. He says you need to load the engine and build some heat in it to get it to seat well. Oddly the new mercs are the same, they need to be loaded for the computer to let them break in.
I have always had good luck this way. I should add that I do not lean on it for a few hours, and that the first tank is with merc premium plus oil.

RT