Is something wrong with my set up or my driving?

[seang1010]

:confused: Hello Everyone, I'm new to the forum and new to high performance boating (or what I would consider HP boating). I have owned and operated some pretty fast bass boats for over 25 years. I recently got what I would consider a performance set up. Here is what I have. Any information, suggestions, or experienced opinions are greatly appreciated.
I just got a really nice and very well maintained 1997 Norris Craft 2000 vdlx 20 ft. bass boat with a 1997 Mariner 225 HP Super Magnum outboard with low water pick-up lower unit. It has a 6 inch setback hydraulic jackplate. 25 pitch Mercury Trophy prop. The engine is carberated and I have to mix the oil into the fuel. I'm not sure (if any) what other performance upgrades were made to this already performance motor. The velocity stacks going into the carbs do not look stock, and the thing sounds like and accelerates like a drag boat. It really doesn't sound like any Mariner Super Magnum or Mercury SuperMax that I have ever heard from the factory.
Now for my problem. I haven't been able to get it over 65 MPH on the GPS. I have owned Basscats with 200hp stock engines that would run over 70 MPH without even the slightest hint of chine walk.
I can trim up the jack plate and motor and get the engine RPM's up to 6500, rooster tail is about cowling high, and boat is only running 65 MPH and is still fairly stable. Any other adjustments up on the trim or jack plate and the chine walking begins, and it gets pretty violent. I'm actually ok with some chine walking. I have owned boats in the past that had to be driven past the chine walk up to the secondary pad and into the sweet spot. I just haven't experienced that violent of chine walking before a boat would stabilize. I bought the boat from a friend of mine that owns C&O Marine. They got the boat from an estate sale and he did take the boat out and drove it before listing it for sale. He told me that the boat would do 78 MPH with two people and a full tank of gas.
I talked to Mr. Crumbly that owns Norris Craft Boats. They keep build, set up, and testing records of every boat that they have ever built. He looked up the records for my boat, and told me that my boat still has the same set up as it had when they built it and tested it before the original customer picked it up. He stated that the boat GPS was 82 MPH. I figured it would definetly run 75 MPH. What am I not doing right? Have I gotten old and forgotten something? Any advice is greatly appreciated.:D

[2Fast2Pass]

Sounds like you just have to drive it. No such thing as driving through the chine walk!! And when you figure it out, there will be no chine walk. IMO seat time is the answer.

[Da Bull]

I`m not understanding what motor you have. If it`s a 225 Mag then it`s been altered as it came with Laser injection not carbs. If this is the case then it is not the same set up as when it left the factory. This could mean problems with jetting or linkage. There could also be a problem with those velocity stacks. Some were built that would block off the carb vent making the motor not run right. The cure is easy. Simply remove them.
If you are sure the motor is at full song then make sure the boat is ballanced right. This will make a huge difference.

[rkmirage]

Check your steering and make sure its properly adjusted.

[JPEROG]

Check the steering for play-if it doesn't have a hydraulic steering system, you should consider the upgrade. Once that is correct then "learn the boat"-move weight around and get seat time.

Joe

[props4u2]

Get with your friend @ C&O and have him give you some pointers while running on the lake. Some one helping you will cut the learning experience in half and be much safer.

[outasite]

Just going to throw this out there,some things to check.----Boat is a 97 bottom may be soft,single steering?,rubber or solid mounts? How high is the prop shaft when your running?You may need more prop,and lift the engine more.

[Forkin' Crazy]

+1 on what Da Bull said. Should be EFI.

If you have no slack in the steering, you just need more time behind the wheel. You are going to have to get up on the wheel or drive the boat to keep it stable.

Be sure to wear a PDF (a good one) and your kill switch hooked up.

Where are you in AR?

[2Fast2Pass]

I bought the boat from a friend of mine that owns C&O Marine. They got the boat from an estate sale and he did take the boat out and drove it before listing it for sale. He told me that the boat would do 78 MPH with two people and a full tank of gas.


This is why I said its probably only the driver.

[seang1010]

Sounds like you just have to drive it. No such thing as driving through the chine walk!! And when you figure it out, there will be no chine walk. IMO seat time is the answer.

Hello, thanks for the quick reply. I know that once I have the chance to drive it more I will definetly get used to it and be able to get more speed out of it. When I'm driving into the chine walk and start to counter act with oposing steering inputs. Should I keep raising the engine along with the steering inputs. Will it eventually stabilize and lock in?

[seang1010]

Hello There, Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not sure why someone would go from FI to Carbs but whoever owned the boat before did for some reason. I am fairly sure it is running correctly, but until I can get the boat to a expert Merc tech I won't know for sure. I will definitly try playing around with the weight balancing to see how it affects performance.

[seang1010]

Hello There, Thanks for the reply. I did as you suggested and checked the steering for slack and there was none. It appears to be straight and centered. Is there anything else I should be checking for with the steering?

[seang1010]

Hello, Thanks for the reply. I didn't know that a performance boat could be driven with hydraulic steering. I was allways told by others that you could'nt get enough feedback feeling from the hydraulic system. How does it differ from a standard steering system when the boat chine walks? I used to have a Champion 186 with a 175 hp that had hydraulic steering on it, but the boat drove so well that It had no chine walking at all. How would you explain how it feels, and how to drive the boat if I upgrade to the hydraulic system? I definetly liked having it on the Champion that I had.

[seang1010]

Hello There, Thanks for the fast reply. I live in Bryant. Its right outside of Little Rock. I checked for slack in the steering and there was none. I know I definetly need alot more time getting to know the boat. You had mentioned getting up on the wheel to keep it stable. Could you explain what you ment? I really appreciate your help.

[speedinstream]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpVwnk_BGq0&feature=youtube_gdata_player
This is a very good example of driving a v pad whatch him counteract what the boat does speeds are extreme but still the same idea .he is also running hydrolic steering

[tlwjkw]

If its got carbs on it who is ta say its still a 225. No tellin' what it is now. That would be MY first thing ta determine before worrin' 'bout tha speed..............Might be a 150???

[ZHenderson84]

Hey man u just cant drive. Just sayin

[Forkin' Crazy]

Hello, thanks for the quick reply. I know that once I have the chance to drive it more I will definetly get used to it and be able to get more speed out of it. When I'm driving into the chine walk and start to counter act with oposing steering inputs. Should I keep raising the engine along with the steering inputs. Will it eventually stabilize and lock in?



Hello There, Thanks for the fast reply. I live in Bryant. Its right outside of Little Rock. I checked for slack in the steering and there was none. I know I definetly need alot more time getting to know the boat. You had mentioned getting up on the wheel to keep it stable. Could you explain what you ment? I really appreciate your help.

It's kind of like sliding a car sideways. You have to apply input to keep it there. But on a padded V bottom you are balancing the boat on the pad, so you must apply input. Or as you said, counter act it. And hydraulic and no feedback is a myth. You feel it by the seat of the pants and correct as needed. It may lessen at higher speeds. Mine seems to be easier to drive at 80 compared to 70.

Take your time and get ya some more seat time, you'll get it!

[njj502]

Like all others said don't drive thru it, you'll just get hurt. Too low of prop shaft height will make it hard to drive. I'm not a fan of trophy props. Hyd steering kicks ass. It don't wear you out and you you feel it with your ass vs hands. My Alli runs upper 90's with hyd.

[Tom Foley]

Put a 26 ET or Chopper on it , start at neutral trim , roll on up to 60 or so apply a little trim and give it more throttle . If the nose seems glued down apply more trim , more throttle and make small counter steering corrections till you get some chine walk control . If the steering feels too tight , fix it first before getting up to speed . Took me about 15 gallons to be able to control my Allison the first time out . You'll get it .

[TooStroked]

Let me offer my opinions / advice. First, I wouldn't try "driving through" anything before a close inspection of your boat, motor and rigging. As others have said, hydraulic steering - correctly installed and tested - is an absolute must in any boat capable of over 65 MPH. I have full Latham hydraulic steering on my boat and wouldn't ever go back to anything less. Not only do you have more control, but the torque reaction that comes with a big outboard is totally gone.

Second, I'd recommend solid motor mounts. You could have everything else perfect and worn, mushy stock mounts can allow your motor to wander all over the place - which leads to the boat wandering all over the place. While you're at it, check every single nut and bolt on the motor and the steering system. I don't think I have to tell you why.

Third, I'd recommend a close external inspection of the bottom of your hull for straightness as well as a close inspection of the stringers and transom to see if the hull is still solid. Rotted out stringers and / or a soft bottom will lead to all sorts of strange handling problems.

Fourth, I'd make sure I had a good high performance PFD to wear and a functioning Kill Switch attached to it at all times. The first is for your protection and the second is for the protection of those you share the water with - if you happen to crash.

Finally, if you still have doubts, have somebody with some serious experience go out with you and slowly work the boat up to speed. Don't believe any idiots that tell you to simply stand on it and drive through wonky handling. On the one hand, you may actually be able to drive through it. On the other, it may be a sign of even worse problems with increased speed - leading to a serious crash.

Hope that helps.

Tom

[200valeroyt]

Mostly all good info above. Seat time above anything, don't overcorrect and DO NOT try to drive through anything regarding chinewalk. When they are close to being setup right, chine walk is all but gone. Once most of these padded vbottoms take a set with the right trim angle, they'll go straight.

[madtunnel]

The best thing you can do is listen to what every one of these guys are telling you and NOT listen to the guy telling you to drive through it he is and idiot. When I got my Allison I could not get over 60 then the chine walk started. I ask and the boat gurus answered with all the same information they are telling you. I jacked my motor till I was an inch below the pad. I sanded and trued the back half of my bottom. and most of all I drove it as much as I could { SEAT TIME SEAT TIME SEAT TIME} I have since purchased a 15 inch mid set mota to 3/4 below pad and am laying down high 80s and a couple of 90s so far and the still have a lot of learning to do. Do not get in a rush and MOST of all be safe

Oh and almost forgot the absolute best thing I did was add seastar hydraulic stearing to my rig

[seang1010]

Put a 26 ET or Chopper on it , start at neutral trim , roll on up to 60 or so apply a little trim and give it more throttle . If the nose seems glued down apply more trim , more throttle and make small counter steering corrections till you get some chine walk control . If the steering feels too tight , fix it first before getting up to speed . Took me about 15 gallons to be able to control my Allison the first time out . You'll get it .


Hello again brother,
i can't tell you how much I appreciate your input and help. I think I'm going to upgrade the steering to hydaulic and order one of the props you mentioned. You said to get a 26et or a chopper. Do you reccomend a source and is there anything else I need to know about ordering one? Like brand, model #, ect. Is one better than the other, or what are the differences? Sorry to be so helpless in these areas. This high performance stuff is just new to me. lol