Power Trim Removal - 3 Cyl.

[eagle-lake]

I have a 1981 Johnson 75 hp and want to remove the power trim unit to replace a few o-rings and refinish it in Johnson white.

It looks fairly easy to remove - from what I can see I need to remove the following:

6 bolts
2 spring clips
1 tilt pin (top of cyl attached here)
electrical wires to motor

Please let me know if I am missing anything as I haven't worked on these before!

Thank you.

[eagle-lake]

Anyone have any suggestions before I try to remove unit?

Thanks.

[evilrude 1]

If the motor is still on the boat you can loosen the big nut on the clamp bracket (where the steering cable goes into) and the starboard side clamp bracket bolts(the ones going through the transom) and slide the bracket over for more room to get the p/t assembly out.
Watch out for the power trim switch--they breake very easily.

[eagle-lake]

The motor is off the boat so is there enough room to remove P/T assembly out without sliding the clamp bracket over?

[evilrude 1]

I think you will scratch it up pretty badly without sliding over the bracket. might be able to remove it out through the back if the motor is swinging from a hoist though.

[Forkin' Crazy]

The motor is off the boat so is there enough room to remove P/T assembly out without sliding the clamp bracket over?

I doubt it. I just usually remove one side of the clamp bracket.

[eagle-lake]

Well that makes it more difficult as the motor is on a stand in my dining room.

[King Dad]

OMC clamp brackets (starboard side, I think) have a small "releif" built into it. Tilt it up, swing down the "trailering" bracket, remove the tilt pin, lower the unit down (either with the motor, if it works OR by gravity and the manual released valve, if the motor doesn't work), raise the engine up by hand again but leaving the tilt cylinder retracted down (because you removed the tilt pin so the tilt cylinder will stay down giving you clearence),swing down the trailing bracket to hold the engine up and out of the way, ( you can/should now use a small rope to hold the engine up IF the brackets and weight of the engine is a concern, you don't want the weight of the engine falling on your hands, do you?), 6 bolts, and electrical wiring (removing the trim sender is helpful). Long pry bar will help on the bottom center against the transom. The unit will swing up and out! Tight but very do-able!! Mercury should have done it this way !!!!!!! Will take longer to remove/disconnectall the wiring than remove the unit, about /2 hr off and one hour back on!

[terry taylor]

Well that makes it more difficult as the motor is on a stand in my dining room.-------------------------Moving it to the bedroom should help also:)

[eagle-lake]

I removed the tilt pin but now the cyl won't go back down - it goes down only about an 1.5 inches.
I have loosened the manual release valve but it doesn't seem to do anything. Controls are up at cottage so I have to do this manually somehow.

[Forkin' Crazy]

I removed the tilt pin but now the cyl won't go back down - it goes down only about an 1.5 inches.
I have loosened the manual release valve but it doesn't seem to do anything. Controls are up at cottage so I have to do this manually somehow.

Three wire or two? Tighten up the bypass screw and you can use the trim to "suck" it back down. Three wire will be a ground, blue (up) and green (down). Two wire you just reverse polarity.

[eagle-lake]

There are 3 wires - green, blue and black.
So how do I get the cyl down?

[Forkin' Crazy]

Tighten the bypass screw. Then you'll need a 12v battery. Connect the black to negative, then in one second or less intervals touch the green wire to positive until the ram has retracted. I would rather you do this with a gel type battery or even if you have a momentary switch to use would be better.

Easy to remember wire colors:

Blue=sky=up

Green=grass=down

[eagle-lake]

OK, perfect, Ill give that a try - I like your color reference!

Thanks very much "Forkin' Crazy",
David.

[eagle-lake]

I tried using a battery as suggested and it worked perfectly - trimmed down - thanks so much again "Forkin' Crazy".

I should have time tomorrow to see if I can get the pt unit out now that the cyl is down.
Regards.

[eagle-lake]

I removed the trim unit - tight but it came out OK.

I have purchased a few o-rings to replace where there are signs of leaks - is this system under any pressure? - the first o-ring I want to replace is the small one on the "oil-line assy. upper".

Any information is most appreciated - thanks.

[eagle-lake]

Please let me know if you have any information on this trim system as I want to get working on it this weekend.

Thanks again!

[eagle-lake]

Anybody?