Yet another question reg blanking oil injection on a 3.0 efi

[filo]

Hi all
as stated by the topic I'm seeking some Infos on how to remove the automatic oiler from my "new" mercury 3.0 225 efis
the reason why I'm asking is that I already searched here and there without success. I've seen a mess of 3ds regarding the 2.5 block but a few reg 3.0 blocks.
I think some of you racers knows how to remove the pump.
Most of all I can't understand if there's a bushing similar to the one of the 2.5 that requires a cap to be fitted to prevent it from falling inside the block.
Again, is there anything on the pump shaft which could fall inside the block when removing the pump?
I know that 3.0 oil inj system is better than 2.5 one but I have no space to fit the two oil tanks for both engines.

Thank you so much in advance
Filippo

[Go Time]

Nothing will fall in the engine. For engines with mechanical pumps at the bottom of the block, just remove the brass bushing and pump drive gear. If you 3.0L is a late model engine, (2002 or newer I think) the pump will be electronic. I wouldn't remove an electronic system, we even run it on our 300X motors and it works great.

[Liberator*21]

Nothing will fall in the engine. For engines with mechanical pumps at the bottom of the block, just remove the brass bushing and pump drive gear. If you 3.0L is a late model engine, (2002 or newer I think) the pump will be electronic. I wouldn't remove an electronic system, we even run it on our 300X motors and it works great.

Word of caution here.................... Quote: "just remove the brass bushing and pump drive gear", not always as easy as it sounds. Have run across several brass bushings that had to be machined out for reasons unknown other than damm tight fit. Heating the block only works every now and then if your lucky.

[Go Time]

I have also run into the problem with a stuck bushing once. I was able to remove using the drive gear shaft as a puller (got lucky I guess).

[filo]

oh f...censored, so there is a bushing inside the 3 litres block as well. Same as for the 2.5.
mine are my99 (or 98): CR should be 0g789179
it there any crankcase block off cap like the 43453 which fits the 3.0?
once removed the pump i could lathe my own two caps to avoid trying to remove the two bushes. Probably this would be simpler

EDIT:
the microfiche shows a "bearing thrust" part 22 that seems could fall inside the crankcase if removed
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/225%20%283.0L%20EFI%29/0G760300%20THRU%200T408999/Oil%20Injection%20Components/parts.html
are you sure about the bushing?

thank you for all the tips

[Go Time]

I'm pretty sure the bushing has to be removed to get the drive gear out, which I don't think you want to leave installed. The bushing and shaft will probably come out without any issue. The pump base looks to be the same as those used on the 2.5s. I would cut the extended portion off a 43453 (its not needed for the 3.0L) and try it to block the openeing.

[filo]

I'm pretty sure the bushing has to be removed to get the drive gear out, which I don't think you want to leave installed. The bushing and shaft will probably come out without any issue. The pump base looks to be the same as those used on the 2.5s. I would cut the extended portion off a 43453 (its not needed for the 3.0L) and try it to block the openeing.

basically yes i want to take the shaft out of the hole but i'd make another brass bushing to leave the shaft in place just removing the pump. Something similar to no.20 pn 817631 but shorter and one unit with the cap... don't kniow, will try to remove the pump and have a look

thanks again for the tips
Filippo

[filo]

ended up bypassing the system
I took the hose from the VSP then connected to the reservoir
also removed the pump to throttle link
had to plug the crankcase and the barb for oil "injection" under the VSP even if it's a check valve


http://www.screamandfly.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_3976_copy.jpg

F.

[Liberator*21]

STOP, don't start the motor..........

Hooked up wrong !!!!!!!!!!!!!! The hose from the oil pump is the oil injection hose not the oil reserve. fill. The oil reserve tank is supplied by the onboard oil tank. There should be a nipple at the bottom of the reserve oil tank, that goes to the oil injection pump under a normal set up, now I don't know what you've got going on.................????????????????????

[filo]

STOP, don't start the motor..........
:confused:
i was trying to remove, to bypass, automatic oiler as i asked i my first post to premix 50:1
so instead of removing the oil pump i left in place while bypassing it
i simply took the output port of oil pump and connected it with the "under the cowl" reservoir input barb so to let oil circle in the pump
i didn't fit the onbord oil tank as i have no place
not saying i don't trust the Mercury auto oiler: simply have no place to install that enormous oil tanks

it works. I started the engine and I was able to see oil filling the yellow transparent silicone hose

thanks any way :thumbsup:
F.

[Liberator*21]

If you say so, it's your motor, but I think your heading for trouble as the oil injection pump is not designed to fill the reserve tank....................

[HP]

I agree with Liberator 21.:iagree: You have the oil reservoir and oil pump connected to a bleed fitting:confused::confused: If you want to remove the oil injection from your motor.
A) Remove the oil reservoir from the block. The 2 wires that went to the oil reservoir are left open.
B) Remove the oil pump, bushing, and drive gear.
C) Get an oil pump block-off for a 2.5 and cut the stem off you don't need it.
D) Apply a small amount of sealer to the block-off plate and attach it.
E) On the starboard side there is a pressure line that goes to the onboard oil tank. Remove it and the fitting and replace with a pipe plug.
F) Please replace the bleed lines back where they were.
G) Put the correct ratio oil in your fuel!!!!!!

[filo]

now i can say that i had no problems during the test: motors run strong

thanks to all

F.