Sportmaster vs TorqueMaster (coned)?

[SCT]

Will a nose coned TorqueMaster run faster then a sportmaster on a single 21' V with a 300XS? Any guesses on how much faster?

Thanks for any input.
SCT

[PropWash]

My guess is the TM will be faster by 3-4mph, based on my own experience with a 19' V with 300XS. I am set up for towing skiers so, as always, your results may be different. If you are running boat only (no skiers) you may be able to get the engine higher than I can which might reduce the advantage of the TM.

[Stitch King]

Can't remember where I heard it (maybe Titus?) but I want to say that a Torque Master with a cone is smaller in size than a Sportmaster. The smaller size means less surface area dragging through the water which results in less resistance which translates to higher speeds.

[prosken300]

Thats true stitch king...

[hsbob]

thats about right, but the real difference is blow out. the sp will go over 85 w/o out blow out.

[SCT]

"go over 85 w/o out blow out."

Even with a coned TM?

[2.5-21]

Any additional facts for this scenario? Would like to know which one is faster,

[150aintenuff]

Akon torquemaster will run just as fast as a spark master there are times when profile width of the gearcase and profile of the nose cone aftermarket nose cones are actually faster than the sportmaster Leading Edge

[AlaskaStreamin]

On certain boats a coned TM will be faster. (V bottoms)

Rev. Ronnie just posted on the HydroStream FB page. John Hennessey swapped out his Yamaha for a merc/ SM and Ronnie chimed in. I don't think he will mind if I share this info. What he explains is what I am experiencing on my Virage. May try a coned TM and see if the same is true on my hull.


Ron Flood (https://www.facebook.com/ron.flood.3?fref=ufi) It's an awful lower for a pleasure boat. It's shorter than a coned 200 case for one. I think the worst part is the widened exhaust chest, it disrupts the flow of water at midrange speeds and unsettles the prop. It's like it's always in cavitation and the hull seems glued to the water. I don't even think it gets a ton better even when it's surfacing and the wide heel is out of the water. To get the same bow lift, they need more trim too.
I have one and tried it on both the HST and the Vaserette. I literally drove from the launch to my beach and pulled it both times because it was so bad. It hated being raised on the jack plate. The prop would lose bite, and was generally slipping the entire time anyway. It was like driving a car with a junk torque converter.
I can't imagine how many people play musical props and get them reworked trying to make them work with a SM when the lower is actually the problem the whole time. My best props acted like junk. On the coned cases, they are like magic.

We ran from the launch, past the house and back to swap it off. Me and one passenger. The boat felt like Rosie O'Donnell was in the bow seat(s). I couldn't put my 200 case on fast enough.

Peter DeCler (https://www.facebook.com/peter.decler?fref=ufi) Did you ever try radiusing the back side of the skeg? That makes a huge difference on every torque-tabbed gearcase I've ever had. I couldn't drive that fat HPDI gear case without rolling the port edge.






Ron Flood (https://www.facebook.com/ron.flood.3?fref=ufi) Yes, all the tricks in the world aren't gonna help a Sportmaster. Cutting the nose off and coning it will help, but that big heel will still wreck the mid range performance.
The 200 cases I've done are 10 times better.


Peter DeCler (https://www.facebook.com/peter.decler?fref=ufi) When you say heel, you mean the trailing part of the case just about propshaft and below vent plate?
















Ron Flood (https://www.facebook.com/ron.flood.3?fref=ufi) Yes this part that I circled. The 200 case is thin and streamlined.

383963

[phil blomquist]

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[AlaskaStreamin]

Rev Ronnie has a very fast HST and is a meticulous machinist. He overthinks everything (which I can relate to). His theory may not work for everyone but if you are having symptoms like he mentioned, try bolting on a coned lower. Nothing to lose.......

[Fear And Loathing]

I have run both on a Mirage river racer with a 300ProMax short shaft cut down by Marty Powle. The Tmaster was faster by 1 to 3 mph, however, due to the Tmasters thinner mounting face ...the area that bolts to the mid section I prefer the Smaster. I was running both cases @ 1.25 in. above pad which due to the thinner mounting flange on the Tmaster caused it to crack around the bolt holes which rendered the case useless after repeatedly welding it in an effort to repair it. I have never had a Smaster break in this area so I would stick with the Smaster if you are running the motor high on the transom.

[2.5-21]

I have run both on a Mirage river racer with a 300ProMax short shaft cut down by Marty Powle. The Tmaster was faster by 1 to 3 mph, however, due to the Tmasters thinner mounting face ...the area that bolts to the mid section I prefer the Smaster. I was running both cases @ 1.25 in. above pad which due to the thinner mounting flange on the Tmaster caused it to crack around the bolt holes which rendered the case useless after repeatedly welding it in an effort to repair it. I have never had a Smaster break in this area so I would stick with the Smaster if you are running the motor high on the transom.

Do you have Pictures of the area it Cracks?

[Fear And Loathing]

No pictures. The cracks developed on the outside of the gear case flange where the 4 side bolts go up into the mid. I hope this description makes sense.

[2.5-21]

No pictures. The cracks developed on the outside of the gear case flange where the 4 side bolts go up into the mid. I hope this description makes sense. yes understood, I guess thats why the Sportmaster is thicker in all the right places.