Setting Timing: Static vs. Actual

[Mr. Demeanor]

I get a about a 2 degree difference setting my timing static vs. the actual timing at 6000rpm.
If I set it per the book method using a dial indicator the actual timing if checked at 6000rpm is 2 degrees less. Does that sound about right?

I have checked this by first making sure my pointer is exactly at 0 degrees using a dial indicator and then strapping the boat VERY well to the trailer and heading don to the ramp. I can trim the motor up where its still putting a decent load on the prop but lets my spin it up while checking the timing with a light.

[perfmarine1]

That's strange OMC gains 4-6 degrees from cranking to spinning at 5000rpm I know that's different than static.You don't list what motor but if yamaha maybe brain box retarding timing. That would be a good thing with todays gas.

[Instigator]

Define your interpretation of static? On my V-6 loopers I disconnect the advance linkage and set full advance by pulling the timer around to full advance. Book and wizards say this is a no-no but I've gone to the ramp w/a test wheel and lit it up and seen no variance.
On those motors you have full advance by 4500.
BTW, a test wheel is a great investment. Can tie your boat to the dock or leave it on the trailer, put your foot to the floor and the boat doesn't move. Way better on the motor than what it goes through w/a partially loaded wheel too. I used one to set the base map in my Mad EFI on my 3.3.

[Mr. Demeanor]

First off, not sure how this got labeled OMC tech?

I mean by setting with the engine not running. Zero RPM.
Chris Carson just mentioned something similar in his thread on detonation. He said something to the effect of lowering your RPM raises your timing.
With the timing light on and the timing advance arm at full advance, I can watch my timing retard to a total of about 2 degrees from where it was set as the RPM rises toward 6000.

PS. I need to grab an old junk prop and make my own test wheel. I have a small gearcase though so it needs to be a small tube prop or over hub. My prop is over half out of the water whenever my boat is moving anyway so I dont see any difference in what I am doing other than a test wheel would be easier.

[Riverman]

I use an old beat up 11 x 15 prop from my 60 on the V4. It works fine as a test wheel.

[pcrussell50]

speaking of test wheels, along the line of what riverman jeff suggested, my prop guy in vegas said you cut down a cheap aluminum prop to about half it's diameter. does not have to be super precise, apparently. i offered to pay him to do it for me. he would not even take my money because it was so easy.

-peter