Bridgeport stator part number?

[pyro]

I'm kind of embarassed I don't know my own motor better than this. I've been running my re-built 1990 Bridgeport EFI for five years with no major problems. It seems like I have now lost the high side of the stator-- It starts and idles, but chugs and misfires when raised above an idle, and won't make any power above 2000 rpm.

Question is... which stator do I need? Mine has enclosed coils (windings are not visible.) 9 amp? 15 amp? More importantly, what part number am I replacing?

Block is stamped with serial number OC276820.

I'm hoping to get this right on the first try... I want to swap out the stator and need to know which one to buy before I start tearing it apart.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

[transomstand]

398-5454A35 (http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/203182.cfm)

15 amp, used with regulator, 5/8" laminate thickness. Used on many 200's.

[pyro]

Mine has no regulator. Rectifier only, direct to the 12 volt buss. Thanks...

[transomstand]

I guess just the 200 uses it with the regulator.

[transomstand]

Pretty decent price here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Mercury-OEM-Ignition-Stator-Assembly-398-5454A35-/130619742860?hash=item1e698b1a8c&item=130619742860&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr

[Dave Strong]

398-5454A35 (http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/203182.cfm)

15 amp, used with regulator, 5/8" laminate thickness. Used on many 200's.

Same one my Bridgeport has but also has a regulator 0C276272.

Dave

[outasite]

You can get a 9 amp for $107 or a 16amp for $115 as long as you have the thin flywheel they both should work with a rectifier.If you are going from 9 to 16 you may need new mounting screws.The part # are 174-5456 (tel:174-5456) and 174-5456-16 (tel:174-5456-16) they are made by CDI and are the open winding style, run cooler.Google black bear sporting goods. They also have triggers and Mallory switch boxes for $99.00

[pyro]

Ok, I have the new stator. I'm scared that it might not run right even after I swap it out. Someone PM'd me the black bear link for Mallory switchboxes, but they show "out of stock.". What's the part number for OEM switchboxes for the Bridgeport?

Id like to have a spare set on hand either way. Anyone have a known good set they'd like to sell?

[transomstand]

Ok, I have the new stator. I'm scared that it might not run right even after I swap it out.

No guts....No glory. Yank that flywheel off there and bolt it in.

[Capt.Insane-o]

Ok, I have the new stator. I'm scared that it might not run right even after I swap it out. Someone PM'd me the black bear link for Mallory switchboxes, but they show "out of stock.". What's the part number for OEM switchboxes for the Bridgeport?

Id like to have a spare set on hand either way. Anyone have a known good set they'd like to sell?


The Mallory boxes are really nice, call McDurmons in Flint. Use the music store dba and set up an account for yourself.

[outasite]

I subscribe to the no guts no glory theory,Get that stator changed,and getter wet!One thing at a time.

[Ace]

Ok, I have the new stator. I'm scared that it might not run right even after I swap it out. Someone PM'd me the black bear link for Mallory switchboxes, but they show "out of stock.". What's the part number for OEM switchboxes for the Bridgeport?

Id like to have a spare set on hand either way. Anyone have a known good set they'd like to sell?

Merc High Performance switchbox part # 332-7778a14

[pyro]

Thanks to each of you for the part numbers and links.

The stator swap took less than an hour, and it runs perfectly now.

[transomstand]

and it runs perfectly now.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[pyro]

Only one weird thing...

I've always noticed the stator was mounted oddly, with the wires exiting directly above the raised block casting inline with the stbd cylinder bank. It seems like it would be better off mounted one set of holes counterclockwise. When I took off the old stator, I could see a set of witness marks where it was once mounted this way, perhaps before its re-build. Wouldn't this would require the timing to be entirely re-set? Right now, full advance is almost at the end of the trigger arm's travel, so it doesn't look like that would be possible to move the trigger arm that far, assuming that the trigger would need to follow the stator to its new position.

I have the "white stripe" wires on the outer box. Is this correct?

I wonder if my trigger and its odd resistance values (25K across each phase) has anything to do with this.

For now, I just played it safe and mounted the new stator the same as the old one was before, using care to make sure the sleeve protects the wires from rubbing on the block casting.

Any thoughts?

[transomstand]

Only one weird thing...

I've always noticed the stator was mounted oddly, with the wires exiting directly above the raised block casting inline with the stbd cylinder bank. It seems like it would be better off mounted one set of holes counterclockwise. When I took off the old stator, I could see a set of witness marks where it was once mounted this way, perhaps before its re-build. Wouldn't this would require the timing to be entirely re-set? Right now, full advance is almost at the end of the trigger arm's travel, so it doesn't look like that would be possible to move the trigger arm that far, assuming that the trigger would need to follow the stator to its new position.

I have the "white stripe" wires on the outer box. Is this correct?

I wonder if my trigger and its odd resistance values (25K across each phase) has anything to do with this.

For now, I just played it safe and mounted the new stator the same as the old one was before, using care to make sure the sleeve protects the wires from rubbing on the block casting.

Any thoughts?

There have been several threads about stator position, some stating it makes no difference, others insisting that it does. My feeling is the old "if it ain't broke" stop fixing.

By "white stripe" I'm assuming you mean the wires going to the coils? If so, inner or outer doesn't matter, as long as you match up your yellow sleeves on the stator/switch box harnesses.

It's probably ok, but you should recheck timing, to be on the safe side.

[pyro]

I'll re-check the timing this weekend once I get on the sandbar.

Usually my 22p Yamaha gets me about 8000 rpm in under 1000 feet, maybe 8100 rpm. When I put it in the water for a quick test run last night, I saw the tach wind up to 8200 pretty quickly. Not sure what that's all about. My PCU "rich" limiter is at 7500. :D

[transomstand]

I'll re-check the timing this weekend once I get on the sandbar.

Usually my 22p Yamaha gets me about 8000 rpm in under 1000 feet, maybe 8100 rpm. When I put it in the water for a quick test run last night, I saw the tach wind up to 8200 pretty quickly. Not sure what that's all about. My PCU "rich" limiter is at 7500. :D

Could be an indication of advanced timing, or could be that stator was going bad for awhile, and may have had a slight misfire you couldn't feel at high rpm.

[pyro]

That's what I was thinking, so I twisted the steamwheel a bit to the rich side until I can verify timing advance.