1989 Black Max 2.4L Oil Level Question

[Sledge]

Hello everyone,

1989 Mercury Black Max 200 EFI 2.4L
Can someone tell me what the oil level should be in the reservoir mounted on the engine?

Background:
Put the boat away last year and all was fine. In prepping the boat for the first trip out this year, I filled the large oil tank as usual and added fuel on the trip to the lake. Got to the lake, engine started on second try and idled fine. Wife gets back from parking the truck and we leave the dock. Just outside the slow/no wake area, I hit the throttle. Boat takes off fine but I get an alarm just before getting to plane. I back off the throttle and the alarm goes away. Hit it again and the alarm is back. Not a constant beep, but a beep beep beep beep. I ease the boat to the sand bar and start checking the Internet for possibilities. Sounds like an oiling issue, so I check the oil in both tanks and all appears fine. I disconnected the wire to the float on the engine tank and tested = no more alarm.

Bad sensor right? Well, more Internet searching (including S&F of course) and I read different information as to when the sensor will trigger the alarm. The engine tank oil level is approximately 1” from the top. Should this be completely full or is this a normal level? I did not run the boat a whole lot that day, but the level never seemed to change.

Thanks in advance for any insight,
Sledge

[Sledge]

I have done some investigation and I believe that the sensor is working just fine and that I am not getting enough oil up to the engine reservoir. It appears that the float is just about to the point where it will trigger the alarm and I suspect that when I take off, the oil sloshes to the back of the tank and the float drops sounding the alarm.

Questions now are:



How do I test to find what is causing the little or no oil condition from the main tank to the engine tank?
I see a flat rub spot on the hoses where they exit the engine, no visible leaks though. If I replace these hoses, what is the procedure to fill and bleed?
Any recommendations on specific hose to use?

Thanks,
Sledge

[b0atguy]

Well, this may be of some bad news to you, but it sounds like the oil pump gear on the crankshaft is just about gone. Commonly happens with old age, and right afer the motor comes out of storage (motor just started after sitting for months). If its not a constant beep, but a consistant beep beep beep beep beep beep beep beep........the oil pump is not turning.
Strange how yoiur reservoir is low too. That is filled from the main oil tank in the boat via pressure to the engine oil tank. Nothing to do with the oil pump.
It may be time to disable the oil inj. system and start pre-mixing. That plastic oil pump gear is the achilles heal of the Mercury V-6 oil injection system. Dont trust it if you have already heard the intermittant beep. Thats the beep of death!

If it is indeed just a oil fill/pressure problem from the boat tank, to the reservoir on the motor.........check the screen/pick -up in the boat oil tank to make sure its not clogged with gelled oil.

Good luck.........
b0atguy

[Sledge]

I am aware of the oil pump gear issue that many have discussed here and after this issue I am becoming concerned enough to go forward with removing the oil injection all together.

I stopped at my local Mercury dealer and the parts guy understood what I wanted to do but could not find the parts. I gave him the P/Ns I found here on S&F, 43453 and 32509. He called Mercury and the person on the line said that I would need another block off plate, P/N 35268 ($5.00) if I have a rectangular pump or P/N 16581 ($37.00) if I have the square pump and some screws P/N 41506.

I am not sure what the additional part is about, but I rolled the dice and ordered the parts including P/N 35268 ($5.00). Hopefully I don’t have a square pump and need the $37.00 block off plate. Does anyone know what these parts are (P/N 35268, P/N 16581) and if I need them?

Thanks,
Sledge

[Sledge]

Ok, have parts, starting the removal process. What is the green wire from the alarm module to the switchbox? Do I need to do anything with the wires left hanging on the engine after removal?

Do I need a block off of some sort for the oil pump rotation sensor?

Thanks,
Sledge

[Sledge]

By the way, P/N 35268 in post #4 is just a threaded brass plug. Looks like it is or the pressure port under the starter but is the wrong size though. I must need P/N 16581, if that is just a bigger brass plug, then I am sure that I can find one for less than $37.00.

Anyone... What is P/N 16581?

[Sledge]

I am guessing by the lack of replies, that you guys are tired of hashing out this oil injection delete issue. I have read many posts and I don't need to cover the whole issue, I just have a couple of questions that I did not see covered elsewhere.

I posted #5 before starting the job. After removing the pump rotation sensor, I now see that the hole the sensor fits into does not go all the way through and there is no need for a block off there.

I still have not found answers to the green wire question (post 5) and the phantom plug P/N 16581 (post #6) that might be needed according to Mercury and the dealer.

[b0atguy]

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner.........been out on the water! Prob. like everyone else.
If you are getting rid of the Oil inj. system completely remove both tanks and hoses. Plug the "pressure" hose fitting with a brass plug or something similiar. Its on the starboard side, bottom of the block. Remove all the wiring for the oil inj. system. Remove the green wire.........actually its best to remove the warning module completely, with the wiring. The overheat alarm is completely independent of the warning module/oil system, so dont worry about that. As for the oil pump........you can plate the oil pump hole after you remove the pump and gear........or just remove the gear, then stick the pump back in. I do it like this all the time. You do not have to block up the oil sensor hole by the oil pump.......it doesnt go through to the crankcase.
Dont forget the most important thing...........pre-mix your fuel. 50/1 is fine for most applications turning under 8000 rpms.
Good luck........
b0atguy

[Sledge]

So, I removed the oil injection (pump, tanks, alarm module etc.) and mixed the fuel. I am ready to start the engine on the muffs and I notice that there is no beeping when turning the ignition to the run position like normal. Will this no longer happen with the oil alarm module disconnected?

As b0atguy and other posts mention, the overheat alarm will not be affected, but why is the beep test at key on no longer present?

Thanks,
Sledge

[pyro]

I notice that there is no beeping when turning the ignition to the run position like normal. Will this no longer happen with the oil alarm module disconnected?


Correct... The oil module generates the beeps. Your alarm horn should still work for the overheat alarm... ground the connector on the everheat switch to verify. It should sound constant... beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.....

The green switchbox wire was previoously how the alarm module was able to verify that the engine was running. If the module saw ignition pulses but no pulses from the rotation sensor, and/or a showing of lack of reservoir oil, it would have sounded the repeating beep warning alarm.

You installed the block-off plug in place of the pump, right? The blockoff plate and plug serves to hold the pump bushing in place so it doesn't fall inside the crankcase.

[Sledge]

Yes, I installed the block off plate and all seems to have gone well.

Just to clarify for me, I will no longer hear any beeps unless overheating, not even at key on just before cranking?

Sorry for the repeat question, I am just paranoid.

Thanks again,
Sledge

[pyro]

Correct. It will not beep any more, because there's nothing there to make it beep. The three beeps were generated by the oil alarm module to verify that it's functional. Now that it's gone, so are the beeps.

Ground the connector in your head temp sender to verify overheat alarm function. If you're really paranoid, clip a continuity tester or ohm meter onto the sender's tip and case, and dip it in a pot of boiling water for a while. It will make a quiet click and you should see continuity or zero ohms when it's fully (over)heated. ;)

[Sledge]

Let’s see if I am on the right track.

There are four wires from the temp sensor (1BK = gnd, 2 TN/BK = to ECM and 1 TN to alarm/gauge. I disconnected the tan wire and grounded it (alarm side not sensor side) and no alarm. Knowing that the temp gauge has never worked since I have owned the boat, I looked there next. I found a TN/BL wire that was disconnected and no sense wire to the temp gauge. I jumped the TN/BL wire to the gauge and had a constant alarm (even with the sensor disconnected). If I understand correctly, the alarm is in series to the gauge. I am guessing that there is a short to ground in this circuit and that the PO disconnected the gauge to stop the alarm. I will start tracing the wiring when time permits.

I did run the boat last night and all was well. I probably have the oil mix a bit rich but for the first premix in the tank, I felt better safe than sorry.

Thanks for all the help so far. I will post the results of testing the temp alarm circuit just as soon as I get time to work on it again.

Sledge

[pyro]

I didn't realize this motor was an EFI. You can also remove the water alarm module (the small box with the red LED) on the front of the motor, since it works only when it's connected to the oil alarm module.

One sensor is for the ECU and temp gauge-- The tan/blue wire should connect to the temp gauge. The two tan/black wires are for the ECU. Black is ground, if it has one.

The other sensor, which may be located on the opposite cylinder head, is the thermal switch for overheat. If it gives continuity to ground on a cool motor, then the thermal switch is bad.

[Sledge]

Thanks for the info Pyro.

I removed the water alarm module when I removed the oil injection.

Now, I see the temp sensor for the alarm/gauge in the starboard head. I do not have a wiring diagram, but this shouldn’t be that complex. I disconnected the sensor and checked for continuity to ground and it is not grounded. I checked for continuity to ground in the TN/BL wire with it disconnected from the sensor and the gauge and there is no continuity to ground there either. Leaving the sensor disconnected, if I connect the TN/BL wire to the S terminal on the gauge, I get a constant beep. This is not making sense to me. What are your thoughts and do you happen to have a wiring diagram for this?

By the way, when I tested the other day and grounded the TN wire from the sensor on the port head, did I do any damage?

Thanks,
Sledge

[orbeamlb]

Sledge,

Did your motor lose power when the Oil Alarm activated? My oil alarm went off Sunday and the motor immediately lost power. We've traded messages on MC Team Talk, I have the Blue and Grey '88 PS 200.

Mike

[Sledge]

Hi Mike,

Sorry it took a bit to get back to you.

No, I did not lose power at all. It appeared that everything was functioning fine with the exception of getting oil from the big tank to the engine tank. The level in the engine tank was just low enough to trigger the alarm on acceleration.

What other symptoms do you have or did you create a thread for your issue already?

Sledge