1984 johnson 115 questions

[JoshKeller]

Helping a buddy get his motor running. It was sitting for 3 years. It did not have thermostats installed, so I've installed thermostats, performed a decarb, and checked compression. Found the port banks were higher than the starboard, and had a slight external water leak, (approx 112 left, 100 right) so I replaced both head gaskets. Compression numbers are closer now, but still have a variance side to side. the port side is 105 psi top and bottom, the starboard side is 97 top, and 95 bottom. Checked cylinders while the head was off, and no damage to any cylinders. Motor did have a bit of carbon build up. We began a second decarb this evening - still tons of white smoke pouring out. We took it out on my boat since I already had the omc controls, and his motor was approx 2 mph slower at WOT than my '79 115 johnson was. 41 mph vs 43 mph.

is the variance any source of concern? still likely to be carbon build up? What about the 2 mph difference? It starts right up, idles well, and has a pretty good holeshot.

[terry taylor]

I feel the way it,s running well and doing what you want it to do, is great . The comp.#s show some possible wear which is normal, The cross-flows were notorious for carbon build up , ports , ring sticking. You could try a different comp. gauge, or keep running it for a while longer and definitely use full synthetic oil add an ounce of sea foam to a tank for a while thanks. :)

[sixpac]

comp #s is aceptable, to many variables for comparison, running good and no overheat no concern, run it.

[JoshKeller]

Did a decarb again last night and ran it this morning. got back up to 43 mph, but badly fouled out a plug about 500 yards into the run. came home, and now the lower compression is 88 psi, which was the plug that fouled out. whats the possibility that i didnt get all of the carbon out in that short run and it needs another decarb and the rings are still sticking?

[JoshKeller]

pulled the head off and found the cylinder full of little carbon beads. Also pulled the intake port cover, and the rings on the lower compression cylinder definitly have more play than the other cylinder. It does almost seem like the rings on the port side are stuck completely against the piston, or the rings themselves has slightly stretched.

this is the top cylinder, with good compression. notice how the rings are nice and tight.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMAG01741.jpg

bottom, lower compression cylinder. notice how the rings seem to have a bit more play and slop to them.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMAG01752.jpg

looking into both cylinders. doesnt apparent to be any scoring.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMAG0177.jpg

Does anyone have any suggestions? The plug did foul out with carbon bits, in fact, so much that it pushed the electrode against the resistor.

[terry taylor]

Yes carbon did build up and stick the rings in the groove lands . full synthetic oil helps avoid this , after what ever your plan is thanks.

[JoshKeller]

I have the head off the motor, so Im spraying seafoam into the cylinder and working it around. Ive noticed that on the cylinder with low compression, if i move the piston, it does not return to center - it always pushes back to the port side. the upper piston more or less goes right back into the center. Is this a sign of the rings being stuck on the port side? Are we going to need to tear this thing apart to get all of the carbon out of the grooves? And lastly, are the carbon "pellets" normal? Silvery, leaves a nasty paste on your fingers when you smash them?

[mike1]

I was looking at the pictures you posted josh and it seems like the cylinder with the lowest compression, the piston of that cylinder, has a small piece of it broken off the edge of it as u look at the second from the top of the 4 intake ports and if u look at the area around the ring land u see that there is a smooth spot the where maybe the missing aluminum piece from that piston may have smeared itself onto the piston as it was going up, just a theory/hunch maybe....and I don't think carbon should be silver, I know only black carbon, and u said the rings of the low compression cylinder move freely?

[JoshKeller]

i believe the broken area is just a loss of pixel quality from the hosting site. The rings themselves dont turn or anything, but if you rock the piston back and forth inside the cylinder, it returns favoring the exhaust port side. the piston with normal compression returns centered. I tested the carbon on the intake and exhaust ports with the same finger smash test, and it was the same color. the color very much resembles the goo coming from the exhaust during the sea foam treament - kind of a mixture of pitch black carbon, and the white smoke from the seafoam.

Worst case scenario, a new piston and set of rings and a hone should be all thats needed correct? I wouldnt think a rebore would be necesarry? The most confusing part to me is the lower compression piston seems to always return offset from center if you move it around any in the bore, which leads me to think a ring is still stuck, explaining the extra amount of springyness i can see from the intake port.

[terry taylor]

Yes it would seem the exhaust side of the piston rings, would be prone to carbon sticking . This is caused by the amount of unburned waste in the exhaust process thanks.

[sixpac]

that piston seems to be scored, and the rings are probaly stuck as a result, these engines are not designed for full synthetic either, dino oil is best.

post a pic of the fouled plug

[JoshKeller]

is there a most likely cause for the scoring if it is? just age?

[sixpac]

fuel lean out or a overheat, is the skirt scored, remember your seeing the intake side, the exhaust side would likely be the problem side.

[JoshKeller]

would the large amounts of carbon that was in it potentially cause it? the motor didnt have thermostats in it when we began working on it.

[sixpac]

cant rule it out, but no thermos could be the cause as well, i never run without thermos on a pleasure craft, pistons expand faster than the block and can cause cold sezsure or scoring of the pistons and rings stick as a result

[JoshKeller]

My buddy just gave me some more info - apparently the guy he got it off of was running a 23 pitch prop with this motor on a fairly heavier cruising boat. At most on my lighter bass boat hull, ive been able to turn a 19p with my old 115.

What is the best way to rule out the fuel restriction or overheat? I have a water pressure gauge on my boat, and was getting over 15 psi at WOT today. We will rebuild the motor if thats what it needs, but we dont want to do it twice lol

The biggest thing I've noticed, in the last picture, the top piston is pretty well centered. the bottom one is definitly springing to the left from the pressure of the rings.

[flabum1017]

The top piston appears to have a chip missinfing at about 11 OClock...... bottom one may have a broken ring.........

[JoshKeller]

as far as new pistons and rings, is OEM the only way to go? are there good aftermarkets? if it needs to be bored, do all of them need to be redone, or will it be ok to just do one or two?

[sixpac]

again, broken/stuck ring on off center piston is my bet.

[sixpac]

measurement of cyl is the only way to know, aftermarket pistons, oem gaskets, theromo/valve kit, water pump kit, new fuel pump, renew carbs, new hoses, chk/reseal wp transfer tube.

[terry taylor]

that piston seems to be scored, and the rings are probaly stuck as a result,-----------[ these engines are not designed for full synthetic either, dino oil is best.]

post a pic of the fouled plug-----------------------Please explain your statement with facts and factual reason that dino is the best for a cross-flo.And how does one design an engine for full synthetic oil thanks:)

[sixpac]

i follow the factory service/repair manual and thier suggestions for a particular year model and/or the replacement piston recommendations, i have NEVER seen a statement by either
where Full synthetic was recommended, the oil wars has been beat to death here and on other forums as well, if thats what your poking at go find those threads and continue with those discussions
there.

[flabum1017]

That engine certainly did not run lean, problem is likely from no t-stats. You can use good quality after market pistons such as Pro-Marine. If you go with WiseCo's, then you will need a machine shop who knows how to bore for them. As far as oil, non-synthetic for break-in then Non-syn, semi-syn or full-syn is fine on these motors. These motors are probably the best OMC built as far as durability.


the only way to tell if that piston has a broken ring is to pull it apart. If the compression doesn't come up with soaking it and de-carbing it, then you will have to pull it apart to see what's going on.... I would not run it hard any more until you get the compression back up to where it needs to be.

[terry taylor]

i follow the factory service/repair manual and thier suggestions for a particular year model and/or the replacement piston recommendations, i have NEVER seen a statement by either
where Full synthetic was recommended, the oil wars has been beat to death here and on other forums as well, if thats what your poking at go find those threads and continue with those discussions
there.---------------By your own words your very ignorant and rude . His engine is coked and carboned caused by your recommended oil .This is 2012 wake up and go poke around your own stupid rectum, but then again your all---------- RECTUM.:icon_bs: :nonod: :nonod: Your a piece of feces
:nonod:

[JoshKeller]

we got the powerhead off today in about an hour which was quite a feat considering we used a ratchet strap hung around a 2 x 4 between some rafters in the garage. I know the flywheel will need to come off, can the crankcase be split without removing the carbs/manifold? At this point, would any other steps be taken in terms of troubleshooting why the piston got sloppy, or can we be 100% sure it was because of no thermostats and the motor likely be lugged from over propping? The cylinder wall doesnt feel bad at all, in fact, theres only one or two very slight areas that dont feel perfectly smooth, and they are not scorched or anything. would it be safe to try and hone it first to see if it smooths out, or even boring it the least amount possible? Does all pistons need to be replaced if boring, due to balance issues?

[flabum1017]

If you find a broken ring, just check the bore with a micrometer at three different depths according to the manual and 90 dgrees from eachother too. If it's within range and the cylinder is still good with a little crosshatch still there, just clean up the piston, re-use the bearings (in their original locations) put in new rings and let it fly.....

[flabum1017]

---------------By your own words your very ignorant and rude . His engine is coked and carboned caused by your recommended oil .This is 2012 wake up and go poke around your own stupid rectum, but then again your all---------- RECTUM.:icon_bs: :nonod: :nonod: Your a piece of feces
:nonod:

C'mon Terry, tell us how you really feel :leaving:

[terry taylor]

Yes the carbs. and manifold will have to be removed to split the case thanks.

[flabum1017]

can we be 100% sure it was because of no thermostats and the motor likely be lugged from over propping?

I'd be pretty confident of that plus possibly using the cheapest oil he could find like Lubrimatic or something. I'd double check everything else while it's apart; carbs included.

[JoshKeller]

another question - if we mark the stator/flywheel and put it back in exactly the same place, the timing shouldnt change, correct? also, is there an online source for the pro-marine pistons? I got on their site, and it seems they want you to be a dealer to get them, and none are close to me.

[flabum1017]

Stator does not dictate the timing, the timer base does. You will need to put the stator back on the way it came off for the wire orientation though.... As for Pro Marine, ask them for a dealer near you and you will probably have to have them shipped to you. Either that or go OEM

[JoshKeller]

so is there a way to mark the timer base and prevent having to reset the time?

[flabum1017]

Timer base goes in one way.... attaches to a link arm and timing is controlled by a stop screw on the block

[JoshKeller]

so as long as the screw stop isnt moved, i can remove and reinstall everything without having to reset it? We did get the carbs and intake off today. Next step will be to remove the flywheel. Any tricks for removing the nut with the powerhead off the boat? impact?

[terry taylor]

Impact? Yes and then a flywheel puller thanks.

[JoshKeller]

got the flywheel puller. just hope the impact takes the nut off without spinning the crankshaft 500 mph lol

[DSMITTY]

it helps to have a flywheel wrench and somebody else taking the nut off.

[flabum1017]

nut will come off easy, hold the flywheel using a rag.

[Riverman]

so as long as the screw stop isnt moved, i can remove and reinstall everything without having to reset it?

No. Follow the instructions in the manual for first resetting the timing pointer and then timing the engine. Timing has to be done under load at least 5000 rpm. If you remove the flywheel the timing will be off.

[JoshKeller]

any tips for removing the flywheel? got the nut off and tried using a flywheel puller, but it wouldnt budge.

[flabum1017]

get it as tight as you can without stripping anything the whack the push bolt with a hammer. one or two good shots should do it

[DSMITTY]

get it as tight as you can without stripping anything the whack the push bolt with a hammer. one or two good shots should do it

spray some type of liquid wrench and put pressure on it wait a little bit put some more pressure on it. tap it one good time with a hammer then if it dont come off put more pressur on it if possible then tap it again till it comes off. worked for me. helps to have a pull bar..

[JoshKeller]

been working on getting the flywheel off for 2 days now. Still not budging. going to take a break for a few days until it cools off a bit. it'll be soaking the entire time

[flabum1017]

It will take a good 80 - 100 ft-lbs of torque on the puller and a couple good strikes of a hammer. soaking it will not help. it's a taper fit. You can try a propane torch around the center of the flywheel, but noy motr yhan 2 minutes of heat.... should pop after about 45 seconds of heat

[JoshKeller]

got it all apart. found the ring stuck and the wall behind the port a tiny bit scored. Ahead of the port is fine. also noticed on the center of the crankshaft there is a sealing ring that appears to be broken. is this part available?

Also, when reassembling, is it best to put the gaps of the crankshaft sealing rings in the same orientation?


258453258454

[terry taylor]

Looks Like the centre main crank bearing, take the 2 wire clips off and it splits. is that what your seeing? I think the large crank sealing rings line up. Make sure the rod caps are marked , they have to go back exactly as removed . Do you have a good manual for info. before continuing? thanks.

[flabum1017]

If that is the position the bearing was when you took it apart, then either someone put it together wrong and the bearing locater is pressed into the block or it spun as you were taking it apart. check the locator pin in the block, make sure it is protruding.

[terry taylor]

Some previous advice entered in this thread is the proper fix 4 pistons and so many other parts need inspection and possible replacement and machining thanks

[JoshKeller]

found the locator pin and the bearing popped right in. It must have spun when i was removing it. I marked the two rod caps, but not the bearing cages - i was planning on replacing them.

[terry taylor]

Yes a ring compressor tool [when your ready]. Please explain what your intentions will be as to this project thanks?

[JoshKeller]

what do you mean what my intentions are? we are planning on having the bottom starboard cylinder bored over and a new piston installed and putting it on his 16' bass boat.

[flabum1017]

I'd get the other three checked and honed, go with new rings all around, new bearings and races and all new gaskets. Use plenty of oil while assembling and double oil (non-synthetic) on break-in.

[JoshKeller]

after seeing the piston, do you still feel it was caused by carbon buildup?

[flabum1017]

Looks like an overheat, definately carbon stuck the rings

[JoshKeller]

What is the minimum WOT water pressure for these motors? we were running and it wasnt below 14 or so. I would think an overheat would effect the top piston since it looks liek it would be the last to get water?

Also, my friend just gave me some more info - apparently the guy he bought it off of has stored the motor for 3 years on its side, after he had it serviced because his boat sank! He claims (and marina receipts validate) that the cylinders themselves didnt get under water, but it was winterized and the motor pulled apart and allowed to dry around the bottom crank bearing.

[terry taylor]

what do you mean what my intentions are? we are planning on having the bottom starboard cylinder bored over and a new piston installed and putting it on his 16' bass boat. ---------------------------------- So you are going to remove everything to the, bare block? You should do all four , that's why I asked thanks.-----------------------------It,s important to remember these engines had big time carbon build up issues. The chemical decarb. you did very obviously removed carbon from piston crowns and ports, but the sticking rings is more difficult thanks.

[terry taylor]

What is the minimum WOT water pressure for these motors? we were running and it wasnt below 14 or so. I would think an overheat would effect the top piston since it looks liek it would be the last to get water?

Also, my friend just gave me some more info - apparently the guy he bought it off of has stored the motor for 3 years on its side, after he had it serviced because his boat sank! He claims (and marina receipts validate) that the cylinders themselves didnt get under water, but it was winterized and the motor pulled apart and allowed to dry around the bottom crank bearing.------------------------------------------------------------------------WOW:leaving:

[JoshKeller]

yeah, luckily it was a guy who owed him money, and he only paid $100 for the motor. We had the other 3 cylinders checked out, and they came in spec at 3 different points. No scoring or anything at all, so we are going to rering the 3 with brp rings. The shop said .020 will take out any scoring in the one cylinder and still leave a bit left if it ever needs done again. Most likely going to go with BRP piston and rings for the over size, new bearings for the connecting rods. Is it ok to reuse to wrist pins? Also will be ordering new head, intake, reed, and carb gaskets.

[terry taylor]

What is the price of the piston ? The rings and pin should--would come with it.

[JoshKeller]

on the shop2.evinrude.com sight its all listed as seperate components.

rings are $34
piston is $98
wrist pin is $15

anyone have any experience with these pistons?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-Crossflow-Piston-Kit-030-Oversize-396585-/280651026527?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item41581ad05f&vxp=mtr

[terry taylor]

Go to www wisco com. piston, rings, pin, and clips [kit] app. 100.oo $ each thanks.

[Riverman]

As mentioned above, don't use Wiesco pistons unless the machinist knows how to bore for them. Pro Marine piston kits are proven and use factory boring specs and are very reasonably priced.

[JoshKeller]

are there any online dealers for the pro marine parts? none are close, and i only have cell phone internet and couldnt get the catalog to download.

[Riverman]

Email them.

http://www.promarineusaonline.com/emailus.asp

[terry taylor]

As mentioned above, don't use Wiesco pistons unless the machinist knows how to bore for them. Pro Marine piston kits are proven and use factory boring specs and are very reasonably priced.--------------------------------------Yes that was an oversight on my part thanks.-------------Jeff I,d like to see a happy ending for him and his project .-----Do you feel he should do all four as I do, while he,s in this far? thanks.

[Riverman]

It is up to him.

[JoshKeller]

We pulled the other pistons, and the walls and pistons look great. We were planning on just honing those 3 and re ringing, and boring, honing and replacing the piston/rings in the 4th. Any problems with that plan?

[Riverman]

Any problems with that plan?

Certainly not. I'll transpose the factory break-in instructions when I get a chance.

[terry taylor]

Take care with the rebuild, and let us know how well it worked out for you thanks:)

[JoshKeller]

Finally had some good news. Took it to the machine shop to get bored, and the machinist took one look, and measured it with a micrometer, and said "thats not scored, thats just minor scuffing. we wont need to bore it" 15 minutes with a hone and all 4 cylinders were looking perfect again!

[flabum1017]

Cool, get ab OEM or Pro Marine piston and git er done...........

[JoshKeller]

is there a problem with getting a pro marine piston kit for the bad piston, and reusing the three other OMC pistons and reringing them with the pro marine rings?

[flabum1017]

No, so long as the other three pistons are in good shape. Did it on mine with good results


258813

[JoshKeller]

is that tiny chip in the piston pictures enough to require replacing the piston?

[flabum1017]

Any damage is enough to replace a piston..... good spot for it to glow and cause detonation.

[JoshKeller]

sounds good, ill order two piston kits and two ring sets monday.

[flabum1017]

if you get the gaskets from Pro Marine, they make both the thin and thick powerhead base gaskets,,,, get the thick ones, way better............

[JoshKeller]

we actually have the OEM gaskets already to do the job - powerhead to mid section, intake, carb, reed blocks, two head gaskets, and two water jacket gaskets. To reseal the crankcase halves, will blue permatex anerobic gasket maker suffice?

also, is there any tricks to hold the needle bearings in place while installing the rod caps? vaseline? any specialty tools?

[flabum1017]

BRP makes a needle bearing grease for the wrist pin bearings, but I always used Vasoline then doused with oil. (I worked for Paigo Brothers down here for 10 years, (the largest evinrude dealer in the U.S.) The rod bearings are caged,l so just douse them with oil. for the crankcase halves, only use the gel seal 2 (red) or equivalent..... sillycone will melt with gas. The blue you have should work if you put it on proper, but the gel-seal is what they call for. Personally, I'd use the Gel-seal.... that is a critical point and a bitch to fix. As for the bearings and everything else...... you can't use too much oil.... slobbering wet is good, spare spark plugs after the first couple hours of run time is better than being lean on oil.

[JoshKeller]

so just soaking the rod bearings and cages in oil will hold the individual needles in place while assembling? The small size $5 pack of gel-seal should be enough for one motor, correct?

[Riverman]

The small end bearings are individual needles which are held in place with needle bearing grease. The big end bearings are caged so no grease is needed - just oil. I fill a clean squeeze bottle with 2-stroke oil for assembly, nice and neat.

[JoshKeller]

so the needles shouldnt be falling out of the cages when I place them in it? It sounds like it may be time for us to replace the cages. Or will the 2 stroke oil keep them from falling out?

[evilrude 1]

so the needles shouldnt be falling out of the cages when I place them in it? It sounds like it may be time for us to replace the cages. Or will the 2 stroke oil keep them from falling out?

There are 2 types of rod bearings both are "caged".
1 type the needles will fall out of the cages and will need some sort of assembly grease (or vasoline) to hold them in place when you assemble the rods---the other style are (like I said) caged aswell but the needles will not fall out.
There are 2 types of piston pin bearings- caged-(needles will not fall out) and un caged (no cage) needles will need assy grease(vasoline)
Vasoline works great because it disolves quickly with heat and gas.
Also on a side note: You do realize the rod caps need to be aligned-Right?

[JoshKeller]

yessir, i have them marked and assembled right now as the came off. I ordered new rod bearings and 4 new pistons/ring sets.

[terry taylor]

yessir, i have them marked and assembled right now as the came off. I ordered new rod bearings and 4 new pistons/ring sets. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Good choice . You know this will give peace of mind when building an engine of this era thanks .
:iagree:

[evilrude 1]

yessir, i have them marked and assembled right now as the came off. I ordered new rod bearings and 4 new pistons/ring sets.

Cool--because even though the rod caps are on the correct way the rod bolts just can't be torqued down-they need to be aligned. You'd be suprised how many people dont know this.

[JoshKeller]

I can see the little ridges, etc on the caps and rod - it looks like they were super cooled, and the caps just snapped off.

[Riverman]

I bought BRP assembly grease and I'm pretty sure it is just Vasoline.

Use the tip of a pencil on the side of the rod cap to feel if it is aligned (from the manual).

[terry taylor]

I can see the little ridges, etc on the caps and rod - it looks like they were super cooled, and the caps just snapped off. ------------------------------------------------------------That,s how it was done yeeesureeeeeeeee:)

[JoshKeller]

alright, we have all of the parts in and ready to start reassembling. I saw it was supposed to be broken in on pure dino oil - same with soaking the bearings and everything during assembly? any particular favorites to use? I typically run pennzoil xlf or premium plus in my motor, but thats a blend. the only pure dino i've found locally is the wal mart super tech marine oil. Also, the permatex I have is 51817 which is the model equivilent number of loc-tite 518, which is what a lot of people are saying is the same thing as gel seal, so I assume I'm good there? As for break in, double oil, varying rpm every minute or so, no WOT bursts for 10 hours?

[Riverman]

50:1 for break-in, fast idle for 10 minutes, first hour below 3K, second hour 4K with bursts of full power for 1-2 minutes allowing engine to cool down between bursts. Avoid continuous full throttle operation for the next eight hours.

Straight from the manual.

[JoshKeller]

yikes, if 3k will not plane the boat out, will lugging the motor hurt it at all? Looks like the rest of the year and most of next year will spent breaking the engine in, since we only have about 6 miles of water to run the big motor in!

[Riverman]

Use a smaller prop. Yes, lugging is no good for the motor, is the boat that underpowered?

[evilrude 1]

yikes, if 3k will not plane the boat out, will lugging the motor hurt it at all? Looks like the rest of the year and most of next year will spent breaking the engine in, since we only have about 6 miles of water to run the big motor in!

Lugging is the worst thing you could do to a fresh 2 stroke.
I would heat cycle the engine several times (5-6 times) meaning let it run to operating temp varying RPM and letting it cool stone cold and repeating the process.
I might do this even more than 5 or 6 times just to make sure the rings are seating in properly and not having a load on it.
Most performance boats will not plane at less than 3000 (mine wont) so what ever it takes to plane quickly than back it off.
There are so many dif. ideas on break-in procedures "its not even funny" but with my sleds I run it to the bar---if it holds together I have a good one, if not--- oh well.
But crossflows are all together different!

[JoshKeller]

Alright, we've started the putting it back together process. We lined up the caps, got the pistons in, etc. Went to put the crankcase halves back together and used the ratchet and flywheel socket to test spin - it spun easily and smooth!. Well I get the bright idea to do that with the motor sitting upright as it would on the mid section, and now its not spinning nearly as smooth and is a bit harder to turn. We bolted on top and lower bearing covers onto the crankcase to possibly eliminate crank shaft movement. Would this be a symptom of a rod cap that wasnt perfectly centered?

[evilrude 1]

You wouldn't notice any difference weather the caps were aligned or not other than eventually the engine blowing up.

[JoshKeller]

You wouldn't notice any difference weather the caps were aligned or not other than eventually the engine blowing up.

Any ideas what's causing the lack of smoothness and friction when thr motor is set right side up and not when its laying on its side

[930turbo]

The bottom bearing is captive in the lower cover. Do you have it properly attached?

[Riverman]

Did you follow the order set forth in the manual for torqueing the case and upper and lower bearing housings?

[flabum1017]

this may sound stupid, but the crankshaft sticks out of the bottom of the engine, are you sure the crank isn't rubbing on something like the work bench?

[JoshKeller]

We took it apart again this evening, and double checked everything - nothing is rubbing, grinding,etc. We put it back together - first finger tight all bolts per the manual, put in the alignment pins, and then tightened the bolts 25% then 50, then 75, then 100% as per the manual. 228 in/lbs for the main bearing bolts, 70 in lbs for the other bolts.

Spun it with the ratchet, and its spinning alright - no hang ups or anything sitting horizontal or verticle, but theres still 8 bumps per crankshaft revolution when spinning slow. It blends together and almost feels normal when your spinning it as fast as the manual ratchet can turn.

[flabum1017]

that's probably just the changing of direction of the pistons you feel

[JoshKeller]

could very well be. is there any tests i can do to make sure everything is good to go before bolting the intake and heads back on?

[JoshKeller]

Looks like the 8 bumps are definitly the pistons changing directions. Its a little bit harder to spin the motor is reverse than clockwise - normal?

[flabum1017]

usually, it will be the same both directions. are you sure the center main bearing is aligned to the pin in the block?

[JoshKeller]

Total rookie here, we turned the block around so I was pulling in both directions instead of pushing in one and pulling the other and they were both just about the same. I put the flywheel on and its much much smoother and easier to turn. I actually remember turning the flywheel when the motor was assmebled and on the boat without the plugs in, and I thought the bumps were the water pump turning inside the cage - apparently it was the pistons changing directions the entire time.

[JoshKeller]

got everything installed and hooked up. Went to turn the key, and who'd have guessed it, but it started right up and idled perfectly! we idled in the barrel for 10 minutes at 1100 - 1500 rpm (varying), and shut her off and took a compression test. With a battery that isnt 100% we got readings of 102, 102, 98, 102. It sounded great, no weird noises, etc. I assume the compression will come up even more after break in? Is it safe to assume we likely got everything put together as it should be?

[terry taylor]

I believe your assumption is correct .:cheers:

[JoshKeller]

took it for a 2 hour fishing trip today and it ran great. first hour at 3k rpm, 2nd at 4k rpm. the last 5 minutes we opened it up for about 15 seconds and it ran awesome. Got it home, took a compression test, and each cyl was 104 - 106. Also checked the plugs, and this is what we found. Do they look normal, or is there an issue? We were running a bit more than 50:1 since I already had the gas mixed up. 5 gallons at 50:1, and 4 at 32:1

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMAG02281.jpg

[930turbo]

I say those are good looking plugs

[flabum1017]

:iagree::cheers:

[Scmarineperformance]

are you calling evinrude johnson engine tuner seafoam? Engine tuner will work well if the rings are carbon choked i have had plenty expierence with the crossflows through the years and i can tell you they will not run long cold they actually will run longer running hot (not overheating) then cold they build much to high carbon running cold that could lead to ring seizure by carbon and cold running could lead to scoring right on the ring land area of the pistons basically friction welding the rings to the piston seen this many times on performance running cross flows right at the exhaust port running area from your pictures and scenerio i would be positive that you have stuck rings it just to determine what is sticking them if they are scored they will never free hard enough time to move them by prying out. if you dont see scoring in the wall it doesnt mean that it isnt in the skirt running area. i would recommend to pull the piston for an inspection it can be done in one day.

[flabum1017]

are you calling evinrude johnson engine tuner seafoam? Engine tuner will work well if the rings are carbon choked i have had plenty expierence with the crossflows through the years and i can tell you they will not run long cold they actually will run longer running hot (not overheating) then cold they build much to high carbon running cold that could lead to ring seizure by carbon and cold running could lead to scoring right on the ring land area of the pistons basically friction welding the rings to the piston seen this many times on performance running cross flows right at the exhaust port running area from your pictures and scenerio i would be positive that you have stuck rings it just to determine what is sticking them if they are scored they will never free hard enough time to move them by prying out. if you dont see scoring in the wall it doesnt mean that it isnt in the skirt running area. i would recommend to pull the piston for an inspection it can be done in one day.


He has already rebuilt the motor......:rolleyes: