Mercury 150 XR6 stator

[bobkyle2]

I had a regulator fail. And i just got the new one and the instructions say to look at the stator to make sure its not melted or burnt. Well my stator sorta looks like its got a bad spot.. But i cannot tell without removing the flywheel .. I have no flywheel puller, And no place around here has them that they will loan out, or sale. And want to charge me 75 bucks to pull it.

Is there a way i can test the stator to see if it works correctly??.... I ran the boat without that regulator plugged up and seemed to run fine... (Had to get back to the dock after the regulator burnt up)

[Germansaleen]

Do an Ohm/resistance test

They had the same problem here
mabee it will help
http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1071619848
Michael

[bobkyle2]

Stator is cooked :/ .....Just pulled the flywheel...

Thanks fellers..

[bobkyle2]

The stator i need looks like this one... It has the plugs on the wires..
256869

AFR has this whole wiring for sale
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?252055-mercury-OB-v-6-wiring-harness-with-electrics

My stator and his stator are 40 amp. Is there anyway i could put my plugs on his stator... Anyone have any info on this?

[bobkyle2]

Anyone know if this is possible :/

[Sparkieboat]

get the correct stator would be my advice. boatfix.com

[bobkyle2]

Yeah.. They don't have the stator i need. And if at all possible i don't want to spend 500 bucks on a stator.

[Bobalouie44]

Try boats.net

their prices are very reasonable, or you could try CDI

[Sparkieboat]

what is your motors serial number?? or what is the stator part number?

[TEXAS20225]

part number 858404 T 3 any CDM motor stator will plug in to it

[TEXAS20225]

i just checked ebay there is one on there for 199.00 but it now or best offer and one onthere thats bid up to 140.00 with a couple days left

[bobkyle2]

Serial number 0t068335 ... Part number..398-858404T4 (http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/421.cfm) OR 398-858404T (http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/421.cfm)3

Yeah I'm watching those on ebay... I'll probably grab that one for 199, tonight.


Thanks a ton fella's!

[Sparkieboat]

I am not sure if that is a new or used stator. but after some part number searching I think I found your part number with R398 in front of it. I think this is your stator. http://www.cdielectronics.com/ProductImages/R398-858404T%204.jpg

It is $350 here http://www.boatfix.com/shop5/store/viewItem.asp?idProduct=35033
for some reason the CDI cross referenced R398-858404T 3 to CDI part number R398-858404T 4
chart here http://www.cdielectronics.com/downloads/CRPL.pdf

[bobkyle2]

The "R" at the beginning means you have to send your stator in.. And they rewind it.. And add the "R" ....

The partnumber with a 3 at the end was the old part number that is discontinued. And nows its got the 4 at the end.




I got one off ebay, A few mins ago. Hopefully i'll be on the water next weekend :D

[TEXAS20225]

Thats the way Merc does it (change the part number) i have a Mercury Parts epc issued by Mercury Marine its called MERNET, the -3 model stator is for a earlier serial number im not sure there is any difference in the stators i dont rebuild many of the CDM motors the fisherman in this part of the country like the switch box motors they twist up around 500 more rpms what ever thats worth on a 150. i looked today in all my electrics and i had one but its part of the whole electrics off a 2003 XR6 i wont split it up good luck with yours first time i ever heard the R deal??

[bobkyle2]

Thats the way Merc does it (change the part number) i have a Mercury Parts epc issued by Mercury Marine its called MERNET, the -3 model stator is for a earlier serial number im not sure there is any difference in the stators i dont rebuild many of the CDM motors the fisherman in this part of the country like the switch box motors they twist up around 500 more rpms what ever thats worth on a 150. i looked today in all my electrics and i had one but its part of the whole electrics off a 2003 XR6 i wont split it up good luck with yours first time i ever heard the R deal??
Well the one i got off ebay has the -3 ... It came off a "240 sport jet" .. I just hope it works... I hate not being on the water. I sat out last summer this same time due to burning a cylinder down on my last merc.

Thanks for you time Tex!

[j_martin]

The difference in the stators, besides lead length and connectors is that there two version. A single coil one for the water cooled honking regulator on some engines usually around 1990 vintage, and a dual coil one for dual regulator setups on later engines. On the dual coil ones you can cut and splice the yellow wires as long as you keep track of the pairs.

[j_martin]

I have a 40 amp 1988 XR4. Took a little chopping to do it.

[TEXAS20225]

im not a fan of buying new parts if the ohm meter and DVA says its within specs ! There is no improvement on replacing a good part with a good part except to the dealers wallet

[bobkyle2]

I have a 40 amp 1988 XR4. Took a little chopping to do it.
Yeah i looked at my old engine and they looked sorta the same.. But i didn't know enough about it. And didn't want to mess up anymore than it already has.

[bobkyle2]

im not a fan of buying new parts if the ohm meter and DVA says its within specs ! There is no improvement on replacing a good part with a good part except to the dealers wallet
Yep! If i had a DVA i probably couldn't read it. I have picked up a few books explaining how to ready a ohm meter... Never learned, So i figured its time.


I am not a fan of used stators..good luck.

I'm not a fan of it either, Just blew all my extra cash reflooring the boat and some electronics... Had no spare cash right now.I will probably pick up a new one in a few months. And save the one i just bought for a spare.


I agree with that Texas..everyone should have a DVA adapter..they are like $30 and way worth it.

If any of you guys have a link about the DVA that tells you how to read it or something. If you get time send them my way.


OH and Thanks fellers!

[Sparkieboat]

http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/ESI-640.html

free guide

http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/troubleshootingguide?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Fcolor%2Flayout.xml&backgroundColor=000000&showFlipBtn=true

[bobkyle2]

http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/ESI-640.html

free guide

http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/troubleshootingguide?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Fcolor%2Flayout.xml&backgroundColor=000000&showFlipBtn=true



Thanks!

[j_martin]

Yeah i looked at my old engine and they looked sorta the same.. But i didn't know enough about it. And didn't want to mess up anymore than it already has.

It's yer money. If it were mine, I'd check the resistance readings, and if they were right I'd throw it on and try it out. Stators and oil alert modules didn't change much, except for the connectors. My Dad taught me:

Necessity is the mother of invention.

And of course, poverty's the father.

[TEXAS20225]

Break Out Another Thousand is the real name of a boat motor:rolleyes: the regular tech manual for Mercury tells exactly how to hook up /read a DVA for each particular motor . A multimeter is what i bought from Pro-Marine since im a user/dealer for there parts it was cheaper for me , it reads all the right ranges spec'd out in the manual some of the generic models of Ohm meters dont read the right scale but the one i bought was a whopping 150.00 which i probably made back on the first motor i hooked it too. i buy quite a few electrics off of E bay they are guaranteed by e bay to be good as well as thru PayPal so the 11/12 % that gets tacked on is good insurance that you wont get stiffed ,but that just me Im building 25 plus motors a year some from scratch with no electrics makes it to pricy to buy all new and you would NOT get your money back .I agree with John the resistance is all you can check without being installed but at least you got a good chance it is good PS all you guy who want need Mercury manuals contact James Perry from this site AKA Wrenching2 he can zip um up and email them to you guys (if you sweet talk him) he is a very nice guy and a great machine shop man and motor builder as well

[bobkyle2]

It's yer money. If it were mine, I'd check the resistance readings, and if they were right I'd throw it on and try it out. Stators and oil alert modules didn't change much, except for the connectors. My Dad taught me:

Necessity is the mother of invention.

And of course, poverty's the father.

Yeah i asked around a few times a couple different forums and no one knew how to wire around the plug situation. And i didn't have the ballz to do it without some guidance. Thanks J.... You are a wizzard


Break Out Another Thousand is the real name of a boat motor:rolleyes: the regular tech manual for Mercury tells exactly how to hook up /read a DVA for each particular motor . A multimeter is what i bought from Pro-Marine since im a user/dealer for there parts it was cheaper for me , it reads all the right ranges spec'd out in the manual some of the generic models of Ohm meters dont read the right scale but the one i bought was a whopping 150.00 which i probably made back on the first motor i hooked it too. i buy quite a few electrics off of E bay they are guaranteed by e bay to be good as well as thru PayPal so the 11/12 % that gets tacked on is good insurance that you wont get stiffed ,but that just me Im building 25 plus motors a year some from scratch with no electrics makes it to pricy to buy all new and you would NOT get your money back .I agree with John the resistance is all you can check without being installed but at least you got a good chance it is good PS all you guy who want need Mercury manuals contact James Perry from this site AKA Wrenching2 he can zip um up and email them to you guys (if you sweet talk him) he is a very nice guy and a great machine shop man and motor builder as well

None of my mercury manuals will work on this engine. I have a Merc service manual and seloc for my blackmax but didn't tell me what i was looking for on this newer engine..


Thanks a ton guys! 2 weeks off the water and i'm about to go nuts.

[bobkyle2]

Any thing i need to do when installing this... Any kind of prep work.. Or checking anything else?

[TEXAS20225]

make sure you lock tite the 4 small allen bolts that hold it in ,color match your wires on plugging it in because two of them look very similar it gonna be alright :thumbsup:just say im not intimidated by this situation im gonna win:cheers:

[bobkyle2]

Haha.. Yep!

[bobkyle2]

The merc service manual i have is for my old black max.. But it does have some newer engines in it .. But not mine.

So i did a ohm test (first one i've did in my life.) I have a fluke 73, Set it to ohms... And tested the yellow wires to the stator frame and was supposed to have no continuity and it didn't. So thats good.

Now the yellow wires.... My book said there supposed to be .75 .... And i got a .2 ... But this is what my manual says ...

"Primary DC resistance of these windings generally is less than 1 ohm.. A reading that resembles a short is acceptable. Copper wires is an excellent conductor but will have noticable difference from hot to cold. Reasonable varitaion from speciafied reading is acceptable. "

This was testing the stator off the engine... With a Fluke73.. And i don't know how to do anything really on the meter lol... I was just testing this new/used stator before putting it on. And trying to learn the meter.

[j_martin]

It's probably good. Throw it on and try it.

When I work on stators, I usually drill and tap a few more mounting holes. I've found that a 3/16" brad point bit fits down through the holes and does a perfect job of marking the end cap/mount. Then I drill and tap more holes.

Watch out for screws too long. If they interfere with your trigger or it's harness, it'll drive you nuts.

[bobkyle2]

Can someone tell me the torque specs for the flywheel? 2000 Merc XR6 150hp

[j_martin]

100 ft./lbs.

[bobkyle2]

I put it to 120 ... Well its tight ....Runs sweet... I guess that also a tach issue i had since i bought this engine last summer. New regulators and used stator replaced all the fuses

Now onto the water pump and lower unit service... Be fishing and screamin tomorrow. Thanks to all

[Sparkieboat]

congrats...

[bobkyle2]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4KxZll9RvA&feature=youtu.be


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4KxZll9RvA&feature=youtu.be

[TEXAS20225]

well all righty then you won this one:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:;)

[bobkyle2]

Yep.. Thanks all.. Finally got it on the water today.I noticed when i had it running on the hose that i thought the tach was working correctly. And today on the river the tach worked perfect. Before it wouldn't work below 1000 rpm ...

It runs so smoothly i don't know if its just me thinking it is. But seems to run better than ever.

Beer/root beer is on me :yes: :cheers:

[bobkyle2]

Well... I'm affraid i might still have a problem . Today we went for a boat ride... Rode around about an hour cruising... And everythings fine, We sat at the sand bar for about 2 hours and decided to go for a boat ride. Started the boat up and idled out to the main part of the river when i noticed the volt gauge was at like 6 volts.... I stopped and checked over everything and it seems fine... Started right back up... I just came back to the truck.. And on the way to the dock it started creeping back up to normal.. And then stayed there... I don't think thats normal is it?

Its got new battery and cable ends.
1 new regulator
New solenoid ..
And the used stator.

I went ahead and unhooked the battery intill i can work on it. And check over everything good. Does this seem normal?


Had zero issues putting the water pump in :D.. Had all kind of problems putting the oil in the lower unit. I usually used the tubes of lower unit lube. This time i used royal purple and that bottle sucks for getting the oil in.

[Sparkieboat]

you need a pump..wal mart has them for about $10

[bobkyle2]

you need a pump..wal mart has them for about $10

Yeah, didn't think about it till i was needing to get it done. And i live 30 mins from anything but a beer. lol

[Sparkieboat]

beer is always close..lol

[bobkyle2]

Well... I'm affraid i might still have a problem . Today we went for a boat ride... Rode around about an hour cruising... And everythings fine, We sat at the sand bar for about 2 hours and decided to go for a boat ride. Started the boat up and idled out to the main part of the river when i noticed the volt gauge was at like 6 volts.... I stopped and checked over everything and it seems fine... Started right back up... I just came back to the truck.. And on the way to the dock it started creeping back up to normal.. And then stayed there... I don't think thats normal is it?

Its got new battery and cable ends.
1 new regulator
New solenoid ..
And the used stator.

I went ahead and unhooked the battery intill i can work on it. And check over everything good. Does this seem normal?

Anyone comment on this... Is this normal? Or do you think i still have an issue?

[j_martin]

Anyone comment on this... Is this normal? Or do you think i still have an issue?

Does your meter read 6 volts, or are you guessing, ie mid scale? Most volt meters are biased, with the left end somewhere around 8V and the right end at maybe 16V. If you ran the radio or some other entertainment at the sand bar, it would be normal for the meter to start out low and creep up as the battery charges. If the engine started, it wasn't at 6v for sure, but might have been around 12V

[bobkyle2]

No.. I have all my accessories out of the boat... No lights,radio or anything. Key wasn't left on... Didn't even trim it after it was shut off. I'd say it was around 5-8 volts while running down the river for a bit.. Maybe my gauge is bad? ... I never thought about that, if it was clearly that low it would have started hard. And it didn't it fired right up. I would have noticed if it had started funky.

I will know more tomorrow morning after i get off work. I'm going to check over everything.

Last summer when the solenoid went out .. It was spinning the starter backwards while not running. Could it have hurt the starter. And could the starter suck the power out of the battery that fast. The starter still works perfectly, Never had another issue after i changed out that solenoid.

I will throw a volt meter on it in the morning and start it and see whats up.

Thanks a ton, Martin!

When i get caught up i have to donate some money to this place.

[Sparkieboat]

you need to DVA test your stator and regulator. Send Martin a gift card..he is a great guy and has helped many people. He deserves it...I am still awaiting his visit to the Savannah GA area, so we can go tighten some lines...

[bobkyle2]

Well... As it looks like i'm going to be poor my whole life.. I guess i will try to pick up a DVA this weekend.And try to learn how to use it :P

What kind of fishing does Martin do... I might have to swing down that way and show you guys how to Catfish ;)