flywheel question

[FAST-J]

Will a 1990 through 1995 2.6 liter flywheel work on a 1996 2.6 liter?

[DoktorC]

I don't think so...the taper is different I believe...

[Ray Neudecker]

It should. The 2.6 liter used the same crank and flywheel from 1990 through 1999 except for the 225 which used a differemt one.

[DoktorC]

It should. The 2.6 liter used the same crank and flywheel from 1990 through 1999 except for the 225 which used a differemt one.

Ray, I'm pretty sure the '96 and newer are different...I'll have to go check but I think they changed to a bigger top bearing. I do know that the flywheel itself is the BIG pieplate design but the taper might be the same. I've got a crank out in the shop that I can check....the part numbers are different but that could be anything.

[CharlieN]

In '96 some of the engines got a TDC pickup. Would the later flywheels have an added magnet or such for that sensor to see?

[FAST-J]

The only sensor on the flywheel is the crank position sensor located kind of starboard rear side.

[CharlieN]

The only sensor on the flywheel is the crank position sensor located kind of starboard rear side.

That was not present with the earlier ignitions, I expect that needs to see something on the flywheel.

[FAST-J]

Got to checking the 90 through 95 models and the crank and flywheel do have different part numbers than the 96 to 99.


Reason I'm asking this question is because my present wheel has been lightened and the timing marks are now missing and I can't tell where my timings at. I found a 90 to 95 wheel on ebay for about $40.00.

[CharlieN]

You can use the early wheel to reference and restamp the marks onto your wheel.
The best method though would be to utilize a piston stop to find top center and remark your wheel. From there you can use a degree wheel to locate whatever markings you want, should they just be for cyl #1 or TDC for each cylinder.
The way I mark flywheels is once TDC is located I then mount the wheel back in the lathe, mate the degree wheel up to it and use a cutter to scribe what markings are needed. I then follow that with an electrostatic engraver, not the vibrating ones but they would do as well.

[FAST-J]

I think I'll find a another wheel and be done with it...:D..

Thanks for the info.....:thumbsup:.....

[CharlieN]

I take it keeping the light wheel is not important then.:)

[FAST-J]

Thought about that but what I will do is re-install the light wheel after I make sure the timing is correct...

[CharlieN]

That can work, the early wheel should mate up tp your engine but I expect it lacks the trigger needed for the CPS.

[FAST-J]

I have an offer for one like I need on Ebay, If they don't except my offer I might get the older one for refrence like you said.c

[CharlieN]

I would really consider marking your flywheel. A piston stop cost $8 on ebay or at Summit. You can also use a vernier and measure where the piston is, I have used a stubby screwdriver in the past.
With the piston stop, screw it in #1 cyl and turn the engine by hand one way till it stops, use a light touch. With a fine tip sharpie or some pen, mark the flywheel at your timing pointer. then again buy hand turn the engine back the other way till it stops, again mark in line with the pointer.
Then subdivide between the marks and this will be 0° TDC, scribe this point so it is permanent.
With a timing light that you can dial in your advance this is all you need.

To me this is quicker and less fuss than pulling the wheel off, twice.

If you use a vernier or a stubby screwdriver you just need an accurate touch to feel where the piston is.

[FAST-J]

It looks like I will be getting the one on Ebay, they accepted my offer of $100.00, I figure thats cheap considering what a new cost..:eek:...