shoebox?

[bulldogdaddy]

can someone tell me if this was a shoebox design? and why are there different gaps going around it.

[bulldogdaddy]

the gap varies going around the boat,this was behind the rubrail

[bulldogdaddy]

this is a section about 10inches long that seems like it is delaminating from the glass,any suggestions are always greatly appreciated

[bulldogdaddy]

found this when i took out the gas tank.cant see any glass damage around it but i think it was put there for a deck stabilizer

[bulldogdaddy]

the transom on this boat only goes as wide as the slpashwell

[Jay R.]

some times you'll see gaps behind the rub rail not a biggie, but from the pictures, it looks like theres rot in the transome, is there? just for fun what is that? can we see some pics?

[bulldogdaddy]

oh theres rot in that transom,lol,to see the pics look in the general section under "it's here",should be on page 1

[Wile E. Coyote]

Are you in the process of removing the deck? If you are be carefull. in an earlier post I mentioned that I found out the hard way that some boats lose hull shape when the deck is removed....It was the project boat I had which was similar to yours. make sure the boat is supported well, not just on the keel. use jackstands or some other similar support on the transom end and maybe tie the boat togeather in the center with a 2X4 BEFORE removing the deck.....It will help keep the original shape so when you remove all the interior structure the boat dont "oil can" and then you reisnstall all new structure into a malformed hull....
Of course if your not removeing the deck ignore every thing I just wrote and have a very nice holiday season
Bill:D

[bulldogdaddy]

all was taken into consideration when you said it before,and scott told me the same thing. just like george w said"not going to do it"

[Techno]

I'm wondering if the deck was cut off with a saw before and rejoined. That would account for a wierd gap and the seeming newer lap joint of glass on the inside. The metal thing might have been "temperary" to align it back up.

I'm used to seeing the deck and hull overlap and screwed or riveted together. Doesn't show in the pictures.

In the pic the seam has been filled at the gap and is painted so it doesn't show well. The hull is inside the deck flange-overlapped. Hull is flipped Yours seems to be butted together?

[bulldogdaddy]

i was thinking the same thing about the deck being cut,but that would mean that the deck and hull were put together in one shot wouldn't it?i never heard of that. now would it be a good idea to fill this crack all the way around so the water wont seep back in as i'm going to more than likely go with a v-6 on it?

[Techno]

If it was cut off I'm thinking this was done as an easy way to seperate the 2 halves no matter how they were originaly joined. As long as it's glassed on the inside it isn't going to leak. Which brings me to the other hard to see. The pic with the aluminum thing, it looks like you could pull the glass off by hand. If you can then it should be ripped off and sanded for a grip, reglassed. If this is needed you can do sections so it stays together. It does look like this was cut apart then reglassed, possibly over the paint.

It's hard to tell from the pic but if this was a lap joint like mine and was cut through the joint. When it was rejoined the gap from the blade would remain if it wasn't cut perfectly straight. But some boats do join the deck and hull rather than this type of overlap thing.

[bulldogdaddy]

i can pull the glass apart that is bonding the halves together by the plate. so i will goahead and repair that section while i'm doing the transom. do you think i should try to get the hull closer together buy cutting the inside? it all looks like original glasswork.or shuld i just fix the one section and fill the rest of the crack with some filler? i need all the tech support i can get!:D

[Techno]

If the glass is over paint then it is a crappy bond and not original. If it seems to be solid I would leave it alone. Closing the gap probably isn't worth the work. If the gap isn't uniform all around then it will take alot more to close it than it seems like.
Filling the gap, well it's hidden under the rub rail so it probably isn't worth the material. If your bothered by it fill the rear area, the places that may be under water when sitting still.
The inside strip of glass should be sealing any water leaks all around.
I think it was Racemore mentioning talcum powder mixed with poly for a filler. The filled gap isn't going to do much strucurally since it isn't feathered out.