View Full Version : Prop shaft endplay
85vking
10-10-2011, 10:03 PM
Hi Gents,
I may be making a mountain out of a mole hill but I started to notice that shifting into forward was becoming a grinding affair! The gearcase was getting more difficult to get into gear. I thought the solution was to adjust the cable at the engine. But then I noticed some endplay in my propshaft that I hadn't seen before or at least I don't htink it was there. Is there a problem with the prop shaft moving an 1/8" maybe slightly more (1/64) in and out? I started to think maybe the gears may be getting a little sloppy inside and that's why it's more difficult to shift. I don't have the tools to pull the gearcase apart, but if I did I would give it a shot. Any ideas? :(
rev.ronnie
10-11-2011, 02:41 AM
I had the same problem on my CLE. It was sloppy when I bought it. The problem was it had rounded the dogs on the FWD. gear as well from not engaging all the way.
It seemed that it had the wrong shim, so I got another one and machined the inside diameter for my Sportmaster shaft and the length to where I needed it to achieve .010 back lash on the prop shaft. It has held tolerance all year and worked flawlessly.
I will warn you, it is bearing material and was a total animal to machine. I heard noises from the end mill and boring bit that I never want to hear again.
It's possible that the flange on your propshaft is wearing. Get it apart.
85vking
10-11-2011, 05:28 AM
REV.RONNIE.....sounds like it will eventually wear to the point where it won't go into gear at all and then ? I know...I'm not stalling but I haven't had one apart before and to make a comparison to an automotive rear end, the ring and pinion would chew teeth off until the whole diff is gonna need a rebuild with lots of parts!? I had this case in for seals and I'm surprised the shop didn't notice it and they're the experts!
H20WKD
10-11-2011, 07:20 AM
Just had to re-build LU.
PO neglect, bang shifting w/30p prop.
Re-wired for start in gear using the extra trim button, (have turn sig trim switches), on the shifter as the starter button. Starts in F/N/R.
85vking
10-11-2011, 08:34 AM
Funny thing is.....it will start in gear now. It has since I've owned it. I suppose that eliminate the shift grinding but will there be wear and tear internal with the clearances being excessive while in use?
whipper
10-11-2011, 08:40 AM
Ive always had a little play at the prop shaft. I was told they all have a little. If yours if exesive thats differant. When ya put it in gear I do it very fast not slow. If I go slow it will grind. Havent had any problems for years like this but maybe what your talking about is differant??
85vking
10-11-2011, 04:55 PM
Exactly!...and I was always taught (35 yrs ago) to pop into gear to avoid the grind. It's only because my shift throw seemed to be less when in all reality it appear the gears maybe sliding apart(?) in the gearcase causing it to feel like the cable is out of adjustment. It's been getting progressively worse or the last couple of months. I'm really gonna be aggrevated if it's bad inside when I just had it in for seals about 3 months ago!
WATERWINGS
10-12-2011, 09:17 AM
subscribed
rev.ronnie
10-12-2011, 09:14 PM
Even if there is slop, the prop drives it foreword and will engage the shift slider under prop load. When we were building my loser, we checked quite a few lowers to see what the end play was. It varied from .050" to .025". I ran mine much tighter. My Yamaha has what seems to be zero, so I went tight based on that.
On the rare chance I shift it, it goes in like a dream, no grind, just a solid thunk into gear.
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