more speed from a 22ft velocity want to go racing!

[Ricky Bobby]

Looking for tips and tricks to get more speed without upgrading to a higher horsepower motor. Is there anything that can be done to the hull to increase top speed? Aside from sanding the bottom, squaring the chines. Any suggstions on where or what i can remove from the hull to make it lighter? Want to run in a racing class that only allows a stock 200hp powerhead, really need to get at least 72mph, i am at 65mph now with a basic setup- 1985 22ft velocity, 200efi merc offshore mid, cle 1.87:1. 6in setback jackplate, quicksilver 24 big ear chopper worked for more bow lift, turning the motor on the limiter of 6100rpm. The fuel tank has already been chopped to 27 gallons to save wieght and the center of the floor under the bow has been removed. Some suggestions would b greatly appreciated, thanks

[mikeylarge]

72 is going to be ruff to accomplish. Try a little more setback, maybe a set of 2 inch spacers would be a quick easy adjustment to see if it helps out. Try different props also, you might not be going fast enough for the chopper to work properly for the boat. You may want to try a through hub style prop so that you can see if the larger hub size helps carry the boat better in that speed range. My velocity never really started to hang real nice until the upper 70's, and my boat was pretty damn light also.

[Ricky Bobby]

Thanks for your reply Mikeylarge, I see you are selling your V22 which I think is the cleanest boat i have ever seen, and the progression is an extrmely nice boat very fast hulls (really wish i could get one!). Could you inform me on how you where able to shed so much wieght from the velocity? I plan to pull the floor out and go to composite stringers, and 3/8 plywood floor. New knees and transom. I believe you are probably correct about running through hub props instead of overhub. Any suggstions on a prop to try?

[Superbender]

I think mikes on the right track morre set back different prop,have you had the boat weighed ?

[mikeylarge]

My boat was constructed from the factory with Balsa core in the pad only, the rest of the boat has corematt in it. The floor, stringers, and bulkheads were replaced with all wood. I just rigged the boat very clean and simple, without all the excess nonsense people put in boats these days. Trophy plus was a decent prop, but not an all out speed prop. I would just try every prop I could get my hands on until something worked well. Chopper probably isn't the best choice for the speeds you are going to be running though

[Ricky Bobby]

I will try a few thru-hub props and see if there is a difference. I do know the boat has much better running attitude when using thru-hub props. I also have not had the boat wieghed but definately will before and after replacing the floor, stringers and transom. Any thoughts on the offshore midesction pros and cons versus a stock or bass midsection? I had not had not tested the speed on gps prior to changing to the offshore midsection but could swear the boat was faster with the stock midsection. I have noticed now that I have to run my jackplate much higher to achive the same rpm than with the stock midsection- believe this would b from less ventilation from th exhaust now.

[j90]

I also have a 22 velocity and it is on a diet. There was a lot of wet wood in mine. I also took out all the carpet under the bow also wet that added weight. I am redoing everything and doing away with the side interior pannels. My rear seat is also very heavy. It seems heaver that the seet in my 24 progression. I was told try 6-10 inches of setback. I am putting a new transom in now and making it stronger for the set back. My boat had an omc V8 and the transom was 2 inches so I am adding a little here. I am thinking about using coring material for the floor to save weight. But my goal is keeping it simple and fast. What year is yours? Mine was made during the transition and was told it was made my Steve since it was the orgional omc V8 outboard. What class are you racing?







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[83PREDICTOR]

Get a 3L 200 for it.

[JUPITER PULSARE]

One thing everyone overlooked was your CLE gear case. At 65-75 mph you don't need the CLE, you're not surfacing the prop. On a relatively heavy hull, you may gain more lift from a torquemaster gearcase and increase your speed. Your pad bottomed Velocity will begin to really fly with at least 12" of setback. A Trophy Plus 26 will give you good hole shot, strong midrange, and respectable top end speeds. The Trophy Plus will also let you really "feel" the boat climb on the pad..the bottom will free up and the boat will rapidly excellerate!

[Gorilla0178]

Rebuild with composite, it'll save you lots of weight over wood.

[fast fun 2]

If your racing in the ocean, dont go over 8-10 inches of setback...especially if you end up with a 3.0

[200VEGAS]

I would consider a conversation with precision propellor.Tom, i think. the turbo 3 blade works well at those speeds too, and the are cheap used.A freind of mine had a talk with steve at the ramp one day and he was into sharp chines. there used to be a product called speed rails sold by volvo penta, i think. as i remember, they worked good to provide extra lift. i never saw them, but the guy i talked to about them had them one a single engine 28 cigarette splash. i think they were like adding a extra set of chines. what about tabs. and can you run hydraulic plate? also, cle is not the fastest lower. could you use a stock lower, drill the lower for low water pickup, and put pickup on transom with hose extension. And i had a friend that was talking about transom mount water pickups that were angled somehow, stayed somewhat out of the slipstream, and grabbed the water sliding up the transom. i never saw it, and the next year he was killed. also, could you have any options on tank location that you could change to suit race conditions. forward rough days, on the transom come days. i'm just throwing food for thought. sorry if i'm rambling

[200VEGAS]

there is a guy on another forum bk5050. he used to race a 22 velocity, and there is a thread about 21 cigarette outboards with a pic of bk5050 flying his 22 velocity.maybe he has advice

[Ricky Bobby]

Thankyou all for your replies and opinions all are appreciated. The class I aim to race in is unlimited except the powehead must be a stock 200hp 2.4l or 2.5l. The goal is to get the hull as lite as possible, obviously within reason to keep good strength for offshore racing. The setup of the hull with 7 1/2in of setback in total on a hydraulic jackplate is a good comprimise of ruff water handling and calm water speed. I find that the boat will slow down or reach a plateau if over trimmed.
What are your opinions on composite stringers and bulkeads? Good idea or bad?
Running the stock gearcase was actually faster but only in flat calm water, once the boat started to leave the water in a bit of chop the engine would heat up. The cle with the lower water pick up helped alot for keeping temps in check.

[fast fun 2]

While your at it build a ballast tank in the bow